The Art of Fermentation: New York Times Bestseller

by Sandor Ellix Katz, Michael Pollan (Foreword by)

Overview

"The bible for the D.I.Y set: detailed instructions for how to make your own sauerkraut, beer, yogurt and pretty much everything involving microorganisms."—The New York Times

*Named a "Best Gift for Gardeners" by New York Magazine

The original guide to kraut, kombucha, kimchi, kefir, and kvass; mead, wine, and cider; pickles and relishes; tempeh, koji, miso, sourdough and so much more…!

Winner of the James Beard Foundation Book Award for Reference and Scholarship, and a New York Times bestseller, with more than a quarter million copies sold, The Art of Fermentation is the most comprehensive guide to do-it-yourself home fermentation ever published. Sandor Katz presents the concepts and processes behind fermentation in ways that are simple enough to guide a reader through their first experience making sauerkraut or yogurt, and in-depth enough to provide greater understanding and insight for experienced practitioners.

While Katz expertly contextualizes fermentation in terms of biological and cultural evolution, health and nutrition, and even economics, this is primarily a compendium of practical information—how the processes work; parameters for safety; techniques for effective preservation; troubleshooting; and more.

With two-color illustrations and extended resources, this book provides essential wisdom for cooks, homesteaders, farmers, gleaners, foragers, and food lovers of any kind who want to develop a deeper understanding and appreciation for arguably the oldest form of food preservation, and part of the roots of culture itself.

Readers will find detailed information on fermenting vegetables; sugars into alcohol (meads, wines, and ciders); sour tonic beverages; milk; grains and starchy tubers; beers (and other grain-based alcoholic beverages); beans; seeds; nuts; fish; meat; and eggs, as well as growing mold cultures, using fermentation in agriculture, art, and energy production, and considerations for commercial enterprises. Sandor Katz has introduced what will undoubtedly remain a classic in food literature, and is the first—and only—of its kind.

Product Details

ISBN-13:	9781603582865
Publisher:	Chelsea Green Publishing
Publication date:	05/14/2012
Pages:	528
Sales rank:	64,831
Product dimensions:	7.30(w) x 9.60(h) x 1.90(d)

About the Author

Sandor Ellix Katz is a fermentation revivalist. A self-taught experimentalist who lives in rural Tennessee, his explorations in fermentation developed out of overlapping interests in cooking, nutrition, and gardening. He is the author of Wild Fermentation and The Art of Fermentation, which was a New York Times bestseller and won a James Beard Foundation award in 2013—as well as the forthcoming Fermentation as Metaphor (October 2020). The hundreds of fermentation workshops he has taught around the world have helped catalyze a broad revival of the fermentation arts. The New York Times calls Sandor “one of the unlikely rock stars of the American food scene.” For more information, check out his website www.wildfermentation.com.

Table of Contents

Foreword Michael Pollan xi

Acknowledgments xv

Introduction xvii

Chapter 1 Fermentation as a Coevolutionary Force 1

Bacteria: Our Ancestors and Coevolutionary Partners 1

Fermentation and Culture 6

Fermentation and Coevolution 10

Fermentation as a Natural Phenomenon 12

The War on Bacteria........13

Cultivating a Biophilic Consciousness 14

Chapter 2 Practical Benefits of Fermentation 17

The Preservation Benefits of Fermentation, and Their Limits 18

The Health Benefits of Fermented Foods 21

Fermentation as a Strategy for Energy Efficiency 32

The Extraordinary Flavors of Fermentation 33

Chapter 3 Basic Concepts and Equipment 37

Substrates and Microbial Communities 37

Wild Fermentation Versus Culturing 38

Selective Environments 39

Community Evolution and Succession 41

Cleanliness and Sterilization 41

Cross-Contamination 43

Water 44

Salt 44

Darkness and Sunlight 46

Fermentation Vessels 47

Jar Method 48

Crock Method 49

Crock Lids 51

Different Crock Designs 52

Metal Vessels 53

Plastic Vessels 53

Wooden Vessels 54

Canoa 55

Gourds and Other Fruits as Fermentation Vessels 55

Baskets 56

Pit Fermentation 56

Pickle Presses 58

Vegetable Shredding Devices 58

Pounding Tools 59

Alcohol-Making Vessels and Air Locks 59

Siphons and Racking 60

Bottles and Bottling 61

Hydrometers 63

Thermometers 63

Cider and Grape Presses 63

Grain mills 64

Steamers 64

Incubation Chambers 64

Curing Chambers 66

Temperature Controllers 66

Masking Tape and Markers 67

Chapter 4 Fermenting Sugars into Alcohol: Meads, Wines, and Ciders 69

Yeast 71

Simple Mead 72

Botanical Enhancements to Mead: T'ej and Baälche 74

Fruit and Flower Meads 76

Simple and Short Versus Dry and Aged 77

Continuous Starter Method 79

Herbal Elixir Meads 79

Wine from Grapes 82

Cider and Perry 84

Sugar-Based Country Wines 86

Alcoholic Beverages from Other Concentrated Sweeteners 87

Fermented Fruit Salads 88

Plant Sap Ferments 88

Carbonating Alcoholic Beverages 91

Mixed Source Legacy 92

Troubleshooting 92

Chapter 5 Fermenting Vegetables (and Some Fruits Too) 95

Lactic Acid Bacteria 96

Vitamin C and Fermented Vegetables 97

Kraut-Chi Basics 97

Chop 98

Salt: Dry-Salting Versus Brining 99

Pounding or Squeezing Vegetables (or Soaking in a Brine) 100

Pack 101

How Long to Ferment? 102

Surface Molds and Yeasts 103

Which Vegetables Can Be Fermented? 105

Spicing 109

Sauerkraut 110

Kimchi 112

Chinese Pickling 114

Indian Pickling 116

Fermenting Hot Sauce, Relishes, Salsas, Chutneys, and Other Condiments 117

Himalayan Gundruk and Sinki 118

Considerations for Salt-Free Vegetable Ferments 118

Brining 120

Sour Pickles 123

Brining Mushrooms 125

Brining Olives 126

Dilly Beans 127

Lactic Acid Fermentations of Fruit 128

Kawal 131

Adding Starters to Vegetable Ferments 132

Liquid Forms of Vegetable Ferments: Beet and Lettuce Kvass, Cultured Cabbage Juice, Kaanji, and Salgam Suyu 135

Tsukemono: Japanese Pickling Styles 137

Cooking with Fermented Vegetables 142

Laphet (Fermented Tea Leaves) 142

Troubleshooting 142

Chapter 6 Fermenting Sour Tonic Beverages 147

Carbonation 148

Ginger Beer with Ginger Bug 150

Kvass 151

Tepache and Aluá 153

Mabi/Mauby 154

Water Kefir (aka Tibicos) 155

Whey as a Starter 160

Roots Beer 161

Pru 162

Sweet Potato Fly 163

Inventive Soda Flavors 164

Smreka 165

Noni 166

Kombucha: Panacea or Peril? 167

Making Kombucha 169

Kombucha Candy: Nata 174

Jun 175

Vinegar 175

Shrub 177

Troubleshooting 177

Chapter 7 Fermenting Milk 181

Raw Milk: Microbiology and Politics 183

Simple Clabbering 185

Yogurt 186

Kefir 192

Viili 196

Other Milk Cultures 197

Plant Origins of Milk Cultures 199

Crème Fraîche, Butter, and Buttermilk 200

Whey 201

Cheese 202

Factory Versus Farmstead Cheesemaking 205

Non-Dairy Milks, Yogurts, and Cheeses 207

Troubleshooting 208

Chapter 8 Fermenting Grains and Starchy Tubers 211

Engrained Patterns 212

Soaking Grains 218

Sprouting 219

Rejuvelac 220

Porridges 220

Fermenting Oatmeal 221

Grits/Polenta 221

Atole Agrio 223

Millet Porridge 224

Sorghum Porridge 224

Rice Congeep 225

Old Bread Porridge 225

Potato Porridge 225

Poi 226

Cassava 227

SouthAmerican Cassava Breads 229

Fermenting Potatoes 230

Sourdough: Starting One and Maintaining It 231

Flatbreads/Pancakes 236

Sourdough Bread 237

Sour Rye Porridge Soup (Zur) 238

Sierra Rice 240

Hoppers/Appam 241

Kishk and Keckek el Fouqara 243

Fermenting Grains with Other Kinds of Foods 244

Fermenting Leftover Grains (and Starchy Tubers) 244

Troubleshooting 244

Chapter 9 Fermenting Beers and Other Grain-Based Alcoholic Beverages 247

Wild Yeast Beers 248

Tesgüino 250

Sorghum Beer 253

Merissa (Sudanese Toasted Sorghum Beer) 256

Asian Rice Brews 261

Basic Rice Beer 262

Sweet Potato Makgeolli 264

Millet Tongba 265

Saké 266

Malting Barley 268

Simple Opaque Barley Beer 270

Cassava and Potato Beers 271

Beyond Hops: Beers with Other Herbs and Botanical Additives 273

Distillation 275

Chapter 10 Growing Mold Cultures 279

Incubation Chambers for Growing Molds 281

Making Tempeh 284

Cooking with Tempeh 290

Propagating Tempeh Spores 291

Making Koji 296

Amazaké 299

Plant Sources of Mold Cultures 301

Troubleshooting 305

Chapater 11 Fermenting Beans, Seeds, and Nuts 309

Cultured Seed and/or Nut Cheeses, Pâtés, and Milks 310

Acorns 310

Coconut Oil 311

Cacao, Coffee, and Vanilla Fermentation 312

Spontaneous Fermentation of Beans 313

Idli/Dosa|Dhokla\Khaman 314

Aearajé (Afro-Brazilian Fritters of Fermented Black-Eyed Peas) 315

Soybeans 319

Miso 318

Using Miso 323

Soy Sauce 325

Fermented Soy "Nuggets": Hamanatto and Douchi 327

Natto 328

Dawadawa and Related West African Fermented Seed Condiments 331

Fermenting Tofu 333

Troubleshooting 335

Chapter 12 Fermenting Meat, Fish, and Eggs 337

Drying, Salting, Smoking, and Curing 339

Dry-Curing Basics 341

Brining: Corned Beef and Tongue 344

Dry-Cured Sausages 345

Fish Sauce 352

Pickled Fish 354

Fermenting Fish with Grains 355

Filipino Burong Isda and Balao-Balao 356

Japanese Nare Zushi 358

Fermenting Fish and Meat in Whey, Sauerkraut, and Kimchi 359

Fermenting Eggs 361

Cod Liver Oil 362

Burying Fish and Meat 363

High Meat 366

Meat and Fish Ethics 367

Chapter13 Considerations for Commercial Enterprises 369

Consistency 370

First Steps 373

Scaling Up 375

Codes, Regulations, and Licensing 378

Different Business Models: Farm-Based Operations, Diversification, and Specialization 383

Chapter14 Non-Food Applications of Fermentation 387

Agriculture 387

Bioremediation 396

Waste Management 398

Disposal of Human Bodies 401

Fiber and Building Arts 401

Energy Production 407

Medicinal Applications of Fermentation 409

Fermentation for Skin Care and Aromatherapy 411

Fermentation Art 412

Epilogue: A Cultural Revivalist Manifesto 415

Resources 419

Glossary 435

A Note on References 439

Books Cited 443

Endnotes 451

Index 481

Editorial Reviews

Library Journal-
This is not a line-by-line recipe cookbook, but it contains detailed instructions on fermenting (or creating via fermentation) nearly every imaginable food or beverage. After a foreword by Michael Pollan, Katz ("Wild Fermentation") explores the scientific basis of fermentation, then gives details for creating everything from yogurts to prosciutto to wines, beer, and kombucha. He emphasizes how fermentation influenced human development. Used to preserve food, it affected human biology so that humans could eat foods that would be poisonous otherwise, and it had an impact on global human culture as a reflection of indigenous cultural identity. Simply put, fermentation allows lactic acid bacteria naturally found in the air to overcome and exclude bacteria that are harmful to humans, and it increases advantageous chemical compounds, such as vitamins, in the process. There is a generous photo section of tools, containers, and processes; along with fascinating electron microscope photos of bacteria, which convey a sense of wonder at the unseen world of fermentation. VERDICT: Katz takes fermentation down to the molecular level while keeping it conversational and accessible to the generalist. Fermentation foodies will be ecstatic.

"The only resource guide you will ever need."—Jenn Garbee, LA Weekly

"The Art of Fermentation is an extraordinary book, and an impressive work of passion and scholarship. It lays the foundation for fermenting all kinds of foods, and whoever reads it will be able to negotiate any recipe for ferments (and conquer any lingering nervousness about fermentation) with impunity. I am so impressed - and ready to begin! Thank you, Sandor Katz."—Deborah Madison, author of Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone and Local Flavors

"Sandor Katz has captured the essence of fermentation in this new book, which bubbles over with scientific, historical, and practical information about humankind's first biotechnology and earth's first energy source. The mystery and sensory allure of naturally fermented products ranging from fruit, honey, milk, all manner of starchy grain, tuber and stalk—even fish and meat—are laid bare and enthusiastically and lucidly brought to life for both epicure and the do-at-homer."—Patrick E. McGovern, Scientific Director, Biomolecular Archaeology Laboratory, University of Pennsylvania Museum, and author of Ancient Wine and Uncorking the Past

"The Art of Fermentation appeals to our personal and fundamental well being, with a thoroughly engaging account of wild, tamed, and unaccounted-for microorganisms. Based on theory, science, and practical observations, Sandor Katz casts thousands of dots onto the pages for us to connect with our own experiences and interests. There are things he writes in this book that are relevant to everyone. Whether we are at war or peace with the tiny creatures we call microorganisms, we can't help but conclude that they are the building blocks of the communities we observe as organisms. His obsession with ferment is contagious. With the flip of a page it's easy to find oneself discovering our own personal journey embedded in this thoroughly engaging book."—Charlie Papazian, author of The Complete Joy of Homebrewing and many other books on beer

"This is, quite simply, the finest book on fermentation available. It is comprehensive, erudite, and surprisingly profound. Sandor Katz is the guru of a large and growing tribe of fermentation enthusiasts and this book will awaken you to the thrilling world of benign bacteria all around us. Not only do they provide us with pickles, cheese, bread, alcohol - but our existence depends on bacteria and they deserve our reverence and respect."—Ken Albala, Food Historian and Coauthor of The Lost Arts of Hearth and Home: The Luddite's Guide to Domestic Self-Sufficiency

"Sandor Katz has proven himself to be the king of fermentation with this new book, an exhaustive yet very readable compendium of fermentation wisdom and techniques from around the world. A must-have in the libraries of anyone interested in food and nutrition."—Sally Fallon Morell, President, The Weston A. Price Foundation

"The Art of Fermentation is a remarkable testimony to the astonishing passion that Sandor Katz has for all matters fermentative. History, science, and simple how-to wisdom are woven together in this extensive journey through the amazing diversity of foods and beverages that are founded upon fermentation."—Dr. Charlie Bamforth, Professor, Department of Food Science and Technology, University of California, Davis and author of Food, Fermentation and Microorganisms

"The Art of Fermentation is much more than a cookbook...Sure, it tells you how to do it, but much more important, it tells you what it means, and why an act as quotidian and practical as making your own sauerkraut represents nothing less than a way of engaging with the world. Or rather, with several different worlds, each nested inside the other: the invisible world of fungi and bacteria; the community in which you live; and the industrial food system that is undermining the health of our bodies and the land. This might seem like a large claim for a crock of sauerkraut, but Sandor Katz's signal achievement in this book is to convince you of its truth. To ferment your own food is to lodge an eloquent protest-of the senses-against the homogenization of flavors and food experiences now rolling like a great, undifferentiated lawn across the globe. It is also a declaration of independence from an economy that would much prefer we were all passive consumers of its commodities, rather than creators of unique products expressive of ourselves and the places where we live."—Michael Pollan, from the Foreword

From the Publisher

This is not a line-by-line recipe cookbook, but it contains detailed instructions on fermenting (or creating via fermentation) nearly every imaginable food or beverage. After a foreword by Michael Pollan, Katz (Wild Fermentation) explores the scientific basis of fermentation, then gives details for creating everything from yogurts to prosciutto to wines, beer, and kombucha. He emphasizes how fermentation influenced human development. Used to preserve food, it affected human biology so that humans could eat foods that would be poisonous otherwise, and it had an impact on global human culture as a reflection of indigenous cultural identity. Simply put, fermentation allows lactic acid bacteria naturally found in the air to overcome and exclude bacteria that are harmful to humans, and it increases advantageous chemical compounds, such as vitamins, in the process. There is a generous photo section of tools, containers, and processes; along with fascinating electron microscope photos of bacteria, which convey a sense of wonder at the unseen world of fermentation. VERDICT Katz takes fermentation down to the molecular level while keeping it conversational and accessible to the generalist. Fermentation foodies will be ecstatic.—Meredith Toumayan, Langley-Adams Lib., Groveland, MA

Library Journal