Table of Contents
Introduction How to use this book 6
Getting To Know Your Sewing Machine 8
Machine Features 9
How a Stitch Is Formed 10
Sewing Systems and Hook Types 11
Mechanical versus Electronic versus Computerized 12
Sewing Machine Motors AC motors, DC motors 15
Needle Plates 17
Knee Lifters (Free-Hand Systems) 19
Foot Controls Rheostat, Electronic 20
Bobbins Styles of bobbin cases, Bobbin sensors 21
Feed Dogs Types of feed dogs Box feed versus elliptical feed Dropping the feed dogs 22
Questions to Ask When Buying a New Sewing Machine Questions Testing the machine Buying online versus from a dealer 25
Maintaining Your Good Relationship 28
Using the Right Foot 29
Embroidery or Appliqué Foot When to use it, When not to use it 30
Walking Foot Closed sole, Open sole Stitch-in-the-ditch or edge-stitching sole Walking foot versus built-in dual-feed system Servicing a walking foot 31
Edge-Stitch Foot 36
Patchwork or ¼" Foot Markings on the patchwork foot Lining up with the feed dogs Chain piecing with the patchwork foot 37
Free-Motion or Darning Foot Overcast foot Stitch regulator for free-motion stitching 40
Cleaning and Lubricating 43
The Lower Part of the Machine Removing the needle plate Taking out the bobbin case and hook Vacuum versus canned air The right way to clean Don't forget the feed dogs Bobbin sensors 44
The Upper Part of the Machine Left side door, Top cover 54
Lubrication Using the right oil Oiling the hook area Oiling the upper portion of the machine 57
Other Maintenance 63
Firmware Updates 63
Mechanical Updates Magnets and computerized sewing machines 63
Surge Protectors 63
A Few Other Things Going over heavy seams (climbing seams) Using spray baste and fusible stabilizers Turning the handwheel 64
Problems and how to fix them 66
Tension in the Relationship 67
Top Tension How the presser foot is involved Setting the top tension 68
Bottom (Bobbin) Tension Threading the tension spring Using the right bobbin 70
Tension Calibration and Adjustment Finding the default top tension Making and analyzing a sample Making adjustments What could go wrong? 73
Things That Might Affect Tension Situations that might require top tension adjustment Making top tension adjustments 77
It's Hardly Ever the Tension 79
Smoothing Burrs on the Hook 80
Thread 82
Damage to the Bobbin Case 82
Incorrect Threading Presser foot up Missing the take-up lever Skipping a thread guide Wrong size of thread stopper 85
Needle Plate Damage 88
Spool Pin Orientation Horizontal spool pin, Vertical spool pin Independent thread stand Parallel-wound versus cross-wound thread 89
Bobbins Loosely wound bobbins Overfilled bobbins That extra little piece of thread Machines with self-winding bobbins Damaged bobbins 91
Thread Lock 97
Needles, Threaders, and Automatic Thread Cutters 98
Needles 99
Anatomy of a Needle 99
Important Relationships Relationship l: Needle size and thread Forming stitches Needle sizes Size of the needle hole Relationship 2: Needle style and fabric Types of needles Longer-lasting needles 100
Choosing Needles by Quality or Price 105
When to Change Needles 106
Twin, Triple, and Hemstitch/ Wing Needles 108
Machine Needle Threaders How a needle threader works what could go wrong? 111
Automatic Thread Cutters 114
Troubleshooting Thread Cutters 114
Presser-Foot Pressure Adjustment 116
Location of Adjustment Electronic adjustment 117
When to Adjust Pressure Too much pressure Not enough pressure 119
Forward/Reverse Balance Adjustment 122
Where Is the Adjustment? 123
When to Adjust Buttonholes, Stretch stitches Decorative stitches, Alphabets Using balance to create a new stitch 124
Buttonholes 128
Buttonhole Systems Dial with buttonhole stages Using the correct buttonhole foot Counting stitches, Measured length 129
Troubleshooting Buttonholes Uneven beads Sensor foot not working properly Fabric not feeding when using button hole foot Fabric puckering 134
Making Great-Looking Buttonholes 136
Troubleshooting Guide 137
Index 142
About the Author 143
