Table of Contents
Foreword v
Preface ix
Acknowledgments xiv
Introduction xxi
Chapter 1 The Prehistory of Northeastern Climbing: Before 1916 1
Chapter 2 A New Form of Exploration: 1916-1927 16
Chapter 3 The Classic Routes: 1928-1933 30
Interlude I It's a Grand Old Flagg 45
Chapter 4 Mountaincraft: Ethics and Style in Prewar Climbing 58
Chapter 5 The First Ice Age: Before 1927 71
Chapter 6 Huntington Ravine: 1928-1945 81
Interlude II Anniversary Waltz in Pinnacle Gully 96
Chapter 7 Fritz Wiessner 104
Chapter 8 Rock Climbing for Fun: 1934-1945 113
Chapter 9 The Gunks Discovered: 1935-1945 130
Chapter 10 World War II as a Watershed in Northeastern Climbing History 140
Chapter 11 The Conservative Tradition-Rock: The 1950s and 1960s 148
Chapter 12 The Conservative Tradition-Ice: The 1950s and 1960s 166
Chapter 13 Young Turks, Old Bootleggers, Vulgarians, and a Boston Tea Party 173
Interlude III Chasing Ghosts on the Armadillo 184
Chapter 14 Breakthrough on Rock: 1957-1966 191
Chapter 15 On Beyond 5.10: 1967-1973 204
Chapter 16 Clean Climbing 218
Interlude IV The Rack and the Theory of the Expanding Universe 228
Chapter 17 Quiet in the North Country: Before 1970 232
Chapter 18 Streibert and Barber 245
Chapter 19 North Conway Renaissance: 1970-1979 257
Chapter 20 Higher Standards throughout the Northeast: The 1970s 273
Interlude V The Many Faces of Group Dynamics 285
Chapter 21 Revolution on Ice: 1969-1976 289
Chapter 22 Emergence of Climbing as a Popular Sport 307
Chapter 23 Restoring Parity: The Reemergence of Women in the 1980s 322
Interlude VI Can Women Lead on Ice? 332
Chapter 24 5.13 and Beyond 337
Chapter 25 Lake Willoughby and the Quandary of Northeastern Ice during the 1980s 347
Interlude VII Education in Verticality-a Short Comedy or Farce in Four Scenes 360
Chapter 26 Climbing at the Crossroads: Ethics and Style Questions for the 1990s 364
Chapter 27 Rumney and the Rise of Sport Climbing 372
Chapter 28 The Swamp Donkey Disco: North Conway's New Generation of Troublemakers 384
Chapter 29 New York and the Charge of the Trad Brigade 395
Chapter 30 Winter in the Northeast 405
Index 426
About the Authors 440