09/24/2018
Much of this oenophilic ramble assembled by novelist and wine journalist McInerney (Bright, Precious Days) avoids the minutiae of wine tasting for a bigger look at the sheer enjoyment of drinking it. McInerney’s selection of essays is broad (“Ideally it will inspire new thirsts”) and includes Roald Dahl’s blackly comic 1951 essay “Taste,” in which a game of guess-the-vintage is taken to absurd extremes; Jim Harrison’s “Wine,” with its Hemingway-as-gourmet verve (“Another smaller tree falls and my dog barks. I’d offer her a glass but she doesn’t care for wine”); and a hilarious snippet of Rex Pickett’s dysfunctional wine tour from his novel Sideways (adapted to film in 2004). Many essays deal with the culture of wine, like the (literal) sword-swinging wine-bro mania explored by McInerney in his brashly funny “Billionaire Winos,” Elin McCoy’s sharp study of how Robert Parker’s explosive love of 1982 Bordeaux changed the industry, or A.J. Liebling’s discursive paean to Parisian gourmandizing in “Just Enough Money.” Meanwhile in the exceptional essay “The Wine in the Glass,” M.F.K. Fisher describes the actual experience of drinking a fine wine (“it rolls down the throat like a blissful messenger of what’s to follow”). There are plenty of bright notes of flavor in this anthology to make it worthy reading, preferably with a glass in hand. (Nov.)
2018-08-27
Novelist, screenwriter, and wine connoisseur McInerney (Bright, Precious Days, 2016, etc.) lovingly curates a collection of pieces about the making, selling, and drinking of fine wine.
In interviews, the author often admits that he feels barely ahead of readers when it comes to wine, despite having written about the stuff for venues like the Wall Street Journey, Vanity Fair, and Town & Country for more than 20 years now. Nonetheless, McInerney displays a keen, well-trained literary eye. In this anthology, he selects mostly traditional selections, with a few surprises. The book opens with "Taste," a 1951 short story by Roald Dahl about a bet to guess the identity and origin of a glass of wine. In "A Stunning Upset," then Time reporter George Taber chronicles the now-famous "Judgment of Paris," in which Jim Barrett's California-based Chateau Montelena beat highly touted French wines in an infamous 1976 contest. At the time, Barrett said, "not bad for a bunch of kids from the sticks….I guess it's time to be humble and pleased, but I'm not stunned. We've known for a long time that we could put our white Burgundy against anybody's in the world and not take a backseat." There are wine experts in New York Times wine critic Eric Asimov's "The Importance of Being Humble" and winemaker Kermit Lynch's tribute to "Northern Rhône," but there are also iconoclasts like the late Jim Harrison, who writes, "such bottles truly resonate in the memory, growing even more overwhelming as they distance themselves from the years." Bill Buford, another larger-than-life character, witnesses a culture clash in "Burgundy on the Hudson." Other fictions sweeten the collection with rich, sensuous writing that evokes the multifarious senses that wine awakens: selections from Rex Pickett's Sideways (2004) and Stephanie Danler's Sweetbitter (2016). The collection also includes pieces from A.J. Liebling, Maximillian Potter, and M.F.K. Fisher.
For wine enthusiasts and newcomers alike, a sharp gathering of writing about wine's multidimensional, occasionally subversive pleasures.