What Einstein Told His Cook: Kitchen Science Explained

by Robert L. Wolke

Overview

Finalist for the James Beard Foundation Book Award and the IACP Cookbook Award

"[A]s good a read on the science of cooking as there is." —Mark Bittman, author of How to Cook Everything

“Wolke, longtime professor of chemistry and author of the Washington Post column Food 101, turns his hand to a Cecil Adams style compendium of questions and answers on food chemistry. Is there really a difference between supermarket and sea salt? How is sugar made? Should cooks avoid aluminum pans? Interspersed throughout Wolke’s accessible and humorous answers to these and other mysteries are recipes demonstrating scientific principles. There is gravy that avoids lumps and grease; Portuguese Poached Meringue that demonstrates cream of tartar at work; and juicy Salt-Seared Burgers…With its zest for the truth, this book will help cooks learn how to make more intelligent choices.” —Publishers Weekly

Product Details

ISBN-13:	9780393329421
Publisher:	Norton, W. W. & Company, Inc.
Publication date:	08/14/2008
Edition description:	Reprint
Pages:	368
Sales rank:	93,822
Product dimensions:	5.52(w) x 8.16(h) x 0.93(d)

About the Author

Robert L. Wolke, a professor emeritus of chemistry at the University of Pittsburgh, received his doctorate in chemistry from Cornell University. He lives in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, with his wife, noted food writer Marlene Parrish.

Table of Contents

	Introduction	xiii
	Acknowledgments	xvii
Chapter 1	Sweet Talk	3
	What is raw sugar?
	Is refined white sugar unhealthful?
	How can you soften hardened brown sugar?
	What are treacle, sorghum, and sulphured molasses?
	What's the difference between cane sugar and beet sugar?
	How do you dissolve two cups of sugar in one cup of water?
	What does "caramelize" mean?
	How are starches and sugars related?
	How do they get corn syrup from corn?
	What is Dutch process cocoa?
	Why does chocolate melt in the mouth?
	How do they make white chocolate? ... and more
Chapter 2	The Salt of the Earth	39
	What are all those special salts and tenderizers in the supermarket?
	What are salt substitutes?
	Why do we add salt to the water for boiling pasta?
	What's so special about sea salt?
	Kosher salt?
	Freshly ground salt?
	Can a potato remove the excess salt from over-salted soup?
	Why do recipes tell you to use unsalted butter and then add salt? ... and more
Chapter 3	The Fat of the Land	65
	What's the difference between a fat and a fatty acid?
	Why are oils only partially hydrogenated?
	Why do we clarify butter?
	How do they make corn oil?
	How do the various cooking oils compare?
	What can you do with used cooking oil?
	How do nonstick cooking sprays work?
	What noodles contain fat?
	Is heavy cream really lighter than light cream? ... and more
Chapter 4	Chemicals in the Kitchen	93
	What do home water filters do?
	What's the difference between baking powder and baking soda?
	Is aluminum dangerous?
	What is baking ammonia?
	Sour salt?
	Cream of tartar?
	Artificial vanilla?
	MSG?
	Why is there "no calcium" in cream cheese?
	Why does lasagne dissolve metal?
	How is vinegar made?
	Are green potatoes poisonous?
	How is lye used in our foods? ... and more
Chapter 5	Turf and Surf	124
	Is a rare steak bloody?
	What makes ground beef brown?
	Is prime rib prime beef?
	Why is the meat near the bone "sweetest?"
	What do bones contribute to a stock?
	What's the best way to skim fat from a stock?
	How do they make all those different hams?
	How does brining work?
	How long is "overnight"?
	What makes gravy lumpy and greasy?
	Why does fish cook so quickly?
	Why does fish smell fishy?
	What is surimi?
	Are oysters on the half-shell alive?
	Should lobsters be boiled or steamed? ... and more
Chapter 6	Fire and Ice	177
	What is a calorie?
	How is cooking different at high altitudes?
	Why does water boil?
	Why does it take so long to reduce a stock?
	What do the Btu ratings of ranges mean?
	Does the alcohol boil off when you cook with wine?
	Can you really fry an egg on the sidewalk?
	Is charcoal or gas better for grilling?
	What's the best way to defrost foods?
	Why do bakers roll out their dough on marble?
	Can hot water freeze faster than cold water?
	Can eggs be frozen?
	What is freezer burn?
	Why does blowing on hot food cool it? ... and more
Chapter 7	Liquid Refreshment	215
	Is coffee acid?
	Does espresso contain more caffeine than American coffee?
	How is coffee decaffeinated?
	What's the difference between a tea and a tisane?
	What makes soft drinks so acidic?
	Does belching contribute to global warming?
	Can soda go flat in an unopened bottle?
	How can you open a bottle of Champagne with aplomb?
	Why do some wines have plastic "corks"?
	What do you do with the wine cork when the waiter gives it to you?
	How much alcohol is there in various beverages? ... and more
Chapter 8	Those Mysterious Microwaves	250
	How do microwaves make heat?
	Why does microwaved food have to stand for a while?
	Why do microwave ovens cook so much faster than conventional ovens?
	Why mustn't one put metal in a microwave oven?
	Can the microwaves leak out of the box and cook the cook?
	What makes a container "microwave safe"?
	Why do some "microwave safe" containers still get hot in the oven?
	Is it dangerous to heat water in a microwave oven?
	Do microwaves change the molecular structure of food?
	Do microwaves destroy the nutrients in food?
	Why does microwave-cooked food cool off faster than food cooked in a conventional oven? ... and more
Chapter 9	Tools and Technology	269
	Why doesn't anything stick to nonstick cookware?
	What's the "best" kind of frying pan?
	Does a magnetic rack affect the sharpness of your knives?
	What's the difference between a pastry brush and a basting brush?
	How can you get the most juice out of a lemon or lime?
	What's wrong with washing mushrooms?
	Does tarnish affect the properties of a copper frying pan?
	What's the easiest way to clean silverware?
	Why are there separate measuring cups for liquids and solids?
	How do "instant-read" thermometers work?
	How do pressure cookers work?
	How do induction-heated ranges and light ovens work?
	Why do crackers have those little holes in them?
	What are the pros and cons of food irradiation?
	What are all those special compartments in your refrigerator? ... and more
	Further Reading	321
	Glossary	325
	Index	331

What People are Saying About This

From the Publisher

"With its zest for the truth, this book will help cooks learn how to make more intelligent choices." —-Publishers Weekly

Editorial Reviews

"Writing clearly about science is difficult; making it funny at the same time is next to impossible. Bob Wolke makes both seem easy. This is a book you’ll enjoy reading as well as learning from."

Russ Parsons

"Bob Wolke is that rare mix of lab-coat scientist and raconteur, as if Albert Einstein’s mother had married Rodney Dangerfield’s father. He’s informed, amusing, and delivers clear answers as well as good, in-depth science."

Christopher Kimball

"Cooking is a science as much as an art, but the science has never been as easy to understand or as much fun to learn as it is in What Einstein Told His Cook. Bob Wolke makes the wonders of food chemistry accessible and entertaining."

Marion Nestle

"You’d never think a food science book would be a page-turner, but from the moment I started reading Bob Wolke’s wise, funny, fascinating book, I couldn’t put it down. A must-read."

Steven Raichlen

"Wolke…is one of the great demystifiers of science information…wonderful at answering those vexing food questions you always wondered about but never got around to investigating yourself."

BusinessWeek

"[Wolke]…breathes fun and fact into his work, making this book a good choice for any cook."

Chicago Tribune

[Wolke]…breathes fun and fact into his work, making this book a good choice for any cook.

Chicago Tribune

The occasional recipe adds diversity but facts are the book's strong point 'What Einstein Told His Cook' is a scientifically accurate but witty and entertaining study of the chemistry of food and cooking.”

Elliot Ketley - Restaurant [UK]

Robert Wolke's terrific book will be invaluable and accessible to every cook. The style is clear, the text is honest, and perhaps best of all the book is fun to read, filled with the 'why's and 'how's of the kitchen.

Paula Wolfert

Robert Wolke's book is so full of useful information that you'll find yourself referring to it again and again.... Not only does he have the penetrating mind of a chemistry professor, but Robert Wolke also has a tremendous sense of humor. Besides being packed with all kinds of interesting food science tidbits, this book is just plain funny.

SauteWednesday.com

I have enjoyed Bob Wolke's column in the 'Post' for years, and his book is as good a read on the science of cooking as there is. Bob is not only well educated, he is a wit and a wonderful, gifted writer who can make anyone understand what's behind the 'magic' that happens in the kitchen. His sound, clever recipes are a welcome bonus.”

Mark Bittman

The Barnes & Noble Review
Does it ever really get hot enough to fry an egg on the sidewalk? What's the best way of preventing soda from going flat? Does belching contribute to global warming? You've got questions; Robert Wolke has answers.

Wolke, a chemistry professor emeritus and winner of several food journalism awards, dishes out funny and scientific answers to common questions in this collection of his best "Food 101" columns in The Washington Post. Who says food science can't be fun?

Here's a sample of Wolke's approach:

• Do microwaves change the molecular structure of foods? Answer: "Yes, of course they do. The process is called cooking."
• If corn is a low-fat food, how do they get all that corn oil out of it? Answer: "They use a lot of corn."
• Why do recipes tell us to marinate dishes overnight? Answer: "I'm with you. Why overnight? Are we to believe that daylight somehow interferes with the marinating process? Generally, 'overnight' is intended to mean eight to ten hours."

Wolke tackles many common food mysteries -- why brown sugar hardens (and what to do about it), what's the best way to cook a lobster, and how to boil water the quickest way. He does a great job of debunking common kitchen myths and proves conclusively that you can and should wash mushrooms before cooking them. There's an entire chapter devoted to providing scientific facts about microwaves and other appliances like pressure cookers and induction-heating cooktops. (Ginger Curwen)

bn.com review

Wolke, longtime professor of chemistry and author of the Washington Post column Food 101, turns his hand to a Cecil Adams style compendium of questions and answers on food chemistry. Is there really a difference between supermarket and sea salt? How is sugar made? Should cooks avoid aluminum pans? Interspersed throughout Wolke's accessible and humorous answers to these and other mysteries are recipes demonstrating scientific principles. There is gravy that avoids lumps and grease; Portuguese Poached Meringue that demonstrates cream of tartar at work; and juicy Salt-Seared Burgers. Wolke is good at demystifying advertisers' half-truths, showing, for example, that sea salt is not necessarily better than regular salt for those watching sodium intake. While the book isn't encyclopedic, Wolke's topics run the gamut: one chapter tackles Those Mysterious Microwaves; elsewhere readers learn about the burning of alcohol and are privy to a rant on the U.S. measuring system. Sometimes the tone is hokey (The green color [in potatoes] is Mother Nature's Mr. Yuk sticker, warning us of poison) and parenthetical Techspeak explanations may seem condescending to those who remember high school science. However, Wolke tells it like it is. What does clarifying butter do, chemically? Answer: gets rid of everything but that delicious, artery-clogging, highly saturated butterfat. With its zest for the truth, this book will help cooks learn how to make more intelligent choices. (May) Copyright 2002 Cahners Business Information.

Publishers Weekly

"With its zest for the truth, this book will help cooks learn how to make more intelligent choices." ---Publishers Weekly

From the Publisher

This entertaining, funny, and enlightening book explores the relationship between food and science and will help cooks of all abilities. The husband-and-wife team behind it works in tandem, giving us sound scientific answers (Why does food turn brown when you cook it?) and recipes that illustrate the concepts. Narrator Sean Runnette has a deep, gentle voice that is both soothing and authoritative. He focuses on the author’s explanations of how we can use science in the kitchen as opposed to emphasizing the more technical aspects. Runnette pauses at just the right times to let us absorb information, and his leisurely pacing makes every word accessible. There are times when he slows down too much and swallows some words, but the book’s payoff is worth these minor concerns. R.I.G. © AudioFile 2012, Portland, Maine

APRIL 2012 - AudioFile