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CHAPTER 1
soups
The Middle Eastern cuisine abounds with soups made both with and without meat. The mainstay of most peasant cuisines throughout the world, soups have formed the basic subsistence of the people.
There are few consommé-type soups; most are rich and filling, and brilliant use is made of fruits and vegetables. It gives these soups a prominence which is lacking in other cuisines, e.g. those of India or China.
Other popular ingredients include nuts, cereals, pulses, yoghurt and tahina. From the simplest soup such as Spas (yoghurt and barley) to the richest – Ashe Lubi Kharvnez-ba-Esfanaj (red bean and spinach), they are often eaten as a main meal just with bread as an accompaniment – often broken up and added to the soup itself. Here are some recipes including some for cold soups, which are ideal on a hot summer's day. Others are cooked in large pans which simmer for hours, to nourish and warm the family on winter nights in mountainous Anatolia, the Caucasus and Iran.
* * *
tahinov-abour
chickpea soup with tahina
This is a rich and nourishing Armenian soup of chickpeas, lentils and spinach flavoured with tahina. It can be prepared well in advance, with the exception of the tahina – which must be added just before serving.
* * *
2 oz (50g) chickpeas, soaked overnight in cold water
2 oz (50g) dried white beans, soaked overnight in cold water
3 pints (1.8 litres) water
2 oz (50g) whole brown lentils
1 oz (25g) butter 1 large onion, finely chopped
4 oz (110g) fresh spinach, washed thoroughly, squeezed dry and chopped
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon black pepper
4 fl oz (120ml) tahina paste
Drain the chickpeas and beans; rinse and place them in a large saucepan with 3 pints (1.8 litres) of water. Bring to the boil, then simmer until the beans are nearly tender. Much of the water will be absorbed or have evaporated, so keep topping-up with boiling water to maintain the original level. Remove any scum that appears on the surface. Add the lentils and cook for 40–50 minutes, or until all the ingredients are tender. Melt the butter in a small saucepan. Add the onion and fry until it is soft and turning golden brown. Add the onion and butter to the soup together with the spinach, and cook for a further 10–15 minutes. Season with the salt and pepper.
When ready to serve, bring the soup to the boil. Place the tahina in a mixing bowl, add some of the stock and mix until the tahina is very liquid. Remove the soup from the heat and stir in the tahina mixture. Serve immediately.
* * *
çevisli nokhud çorbasi
walnut and chickpea soup
This Anatolian soup from Southern Turkey is popular with Turks, Armenians, Kurds and the Alouites of Syria. The unusual combination of walnuts and chickpeas gives it a rich, earthy flavour. Any leftover soup will darken in colour because of the nuts, but this will not affect the taste.
* * *
3 oz (75g) chickpeas, soaked overnight in cold water
3 pints (1.8 litres) water
1 oz (25g) butter 1 medium onion, coarsely chopped
2 carrots, peeled and finely diced
2 large potatoes, peeled and finely diced
½ teaspoon chilli pepper
1½ teaspoons salt
2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley
2 tablespoons lemon juice
3 oz (75g) chopped walnuts
Garnish
thinly sliced lemon rounds
Drain the chickpeas and place in a large saucepan with the water. Bring it to the boil and then simmer until the beans are tender, adding more boiling water if necessary.
Melt the butter in a small pan, add the onion and fry until soft and turning golden. Check that there is still about 3 pints (1.8 litres) of liquid in the pan with the chickpeas, then pour in the butter and onion.
Add the rest of the vegetables, chilli pepper and salt, and simmer for a further 15–20 minutes or until the vegetables are tender.
Stir in the parsley, lemon juice and nuts. Simmer for a further 1–2 minutes. Serve hot and garnish each bowl with a slice of lemon.
* * *
kahtzer tzavabour
wheat and nut soup
A man can live without spices, but not without wheat. Jewish Wisdom
A most unusual sweet soup from the Caucasus which has a most exquisite flavor and should be very popular, especially with children. It can be served either hot or cold.
* * *
2 oz (50g) large burghul
1 oz (25g) butter
½ pint (300ml) red grape juice
1½ pints (900ml) water
1 oz (25g) crushed walnuts
1 teaspoon cinnamon
2 teaspoons sugar
Wash the burghul several times in a bowl under cold water until the water poured away is clear.
Melt the butter in a saucepan, add the burghul and fry for 2–3 minutes, stirring constantly. Add the grape juice and water, bring to the boil; lower the heat and simmer for about 15 minutes, or until the burghul is cooked.
Add the walnuts, cinnamon and sugar and stir well. Remove from the heat and serve hot or cold.
* * *
badem çorbasi
almond soup
As in their sea-green shell the pearls In a triple green we hide, shy girls, We care to pass the green of youth In hauberks bitter and uncouth, Until the waking comes and we Wanton white hearts from out our tree. 1001 Nights
An extremely delightful soup from Turkey, this is a speciality of Istanbul making use of almonds – 'the pride of Anatolia'. It is rich and sophisticated.
* * *
6 hard-boiled eggs, shelled
2 oz (50g) ground almonds
6 bitter almonds
1 teaspoon lemon rind
1 teaspoon coriander seeds
2 pints (1.2 litres) water
1 teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon dried sweet basil
¼ teaspoon thyme
½ pint (300ml) single cream
Halve the eggs and remove the yolks. Put the yolks, ground and bitter almonds, lemon rind and coriander seeds in a liquidiser and blend to a paste.
Scrape the paste out into a saucepan and stir in the water slowly so that the liquid stays smooth and lump-free. Bring to the boil, season with the salt, basil and thyme, then lower the heat and simmer for about 10 minutes.
Remove from the heat and pour into a soup tureen. Stir the cream through the soup and serve immediately.
* * *
herishde
pasta and tahina soup
This is a thick, filling soup from Armenia. The tahina stock gives it a distinctive flavour. You can substitute bought, dried pasta for the home-made pasta. Tahina paste can be bought from most Middle Eastern stores.
* * *
4 oz (110g) chickpeas, soaked in cold water overnight
3 pints (1.8 litres) water
8 oz (225g) plain flour
1 egg
2 teaspoons salt
4 oz (110g) rice, washed thoroughly under cold running water
½ teaspoon black pepper
8 fl oz (250ml) tahina paste
Rinse the chickpeas and put into a large saucepan with the water. Bring to the boil and cook until the chickpeas are tender. You may need to top up with boiling water from time to time.
Meanwhile, sieve the flour into a large bowl, add the egg and 1 teaspoon of the salt and knead, with a little water, until it forms a smooth dough. Divide this dough into 2 balls.
Roll each ball out until it is very thin, then cut into strips 2in × ½in (5cm × 1cm), spread out and leave to dry.
When the chickpeas are cooked, add the rice and the pasta strips. Stir in the remaining salt and the black pepper and continue to cook. You will probably need to top up the water again to maintain a level of about 3 pints (1.8 litres).
When all the ingredients are cooked, remove the soup from the heat.
Put the tahina paste into a bowl and thin it down by stirring in some of the hot stock, a little at a time.
When ready to serve, pour the tahina mixture into the soup and stir well. Do not bring to the boil again or the soup will curdle.
* * *
makhlouta
rice and lentil soup
A traditional Syrian soup which is simple, delicious and wholesome. It is also popular with Turks and Armenians, who use burghul instead of rice.
* * *
4 tablespoons olive oil
1 onion, finely chopped
3 oz (75g) long-grain rice, washed thoroughly under cold water and drained
3 pints (1.8 litres) water
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon black pepper
1 teaspoon ground cumin
¼ teaspoon cinnamon pinch ground cloves
6 oz (175g) red lentils pinch cayenne pepper
Heat the oil in a large saucepan, add the onion and fry, stirring frequently, until soft. Now add the rice and fry for 2–3 minutes, stirring frequently. Stir in the water, salt, pepper, cumin, cinnamon and cloves. Bring quickly to the boil, then simmer for 5 minutes.
Add the red lentils and continue simmering until the rice and lentils are tender but not mushy – about 15–20 minutes depending on the quality of the lentils.
Garnish with a pinch of cayenne pepper and serve immediately.
* * *
spas
yoghurt and barley soup
A classic yoghurt soup from Armenia; easy to prepare and tastes delicious. It is ideal on cold winter nights served with a warm bread, e.g. pita; it can also be served cold.
* * *
3 oz (75g) pearl barley, soaked in cold water overnight
4 pints (2.4 litres) water
¾ pint (450ml) plain yoghurt
4 eggs
½ oz (15g) flour
1 oz (25g) butter
1 small onion, finely chopped
2 teaspoons salt
1 level teaspoon black pepper
2 teaspoons finely chopped mint
2 teaspoons finely chopped parsley or coriander
Drain the barley and put in a large saucepan with about half the water; bring to the boil and simmer for about ½ an hour or until tender. Drain through a fine sieve.
Put the yoghurt into a large bowl and add the rest of the water. Mix until well blended.
Break the eggs into a saucepan and whisk in the flour, a little at a time. Stir in the yoghurt mixture and put over a moderate heat. Whisking constantly, bring the mixture almost to the boil, then quickly lower the heat, and allow just to simmer very gently for 2–3 minutes until the mixture thickens slightly.
Meanwhile, melt the butter in a small pan and fry the onion until soft and just beginning to brown.
Stir the barley, cooked onion with the butter, salt and black pepper into the soup and simmer for another minute. When ready to serve, sprinkle with finely chopped fresh herbs.
* * *
vospabour
lentil soup
Lentil soup is perhaps the most popular and most ancient of all Middle Eastern soups: Esau sold his inheritance for a bowl of it. There are several variations and every nationality has its favourite version. This recipe is slightly unusual since it also makes use of chickpeas and burghul. It is an Armenian favourite.
* * *
2 oz (50g) chickpeas, soaked overnight in cold water
2 carrots, peeled and diced
4 sticks celery, washed and diced
3 pints (1.8 litres) water
4 oz (110g) brown lentils
2 oz (50g) large burghul, rinsed
2 oz (50g) butter
1 onion, finely chopped
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh mint or 2 teaspoons dried mint
1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley
2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon black pepper
1 teaspoon ground cumin
Place the chickpeas in a saucepan of lightly salted water, bring to the boil and simmer until tender. Top up with a little more boiling water if necessary and remove any scum that appears on the surface. Drain and set aside.
Place the carrots, celery and water in a large saucepan, bring to the boil and simmer for 15 minutes. Add the lentils and chickpeas and simmer for a further 20–30 minutes. Now add the burghul and cook for a further 15–20 minutes, by which time the vegetables, lentils and burghul should all be cooked.
Meanwhile, melt the butter in a small saucepan, add the onion and fry until golden brown. Stir in the mint, parsley, salt, pepper and cumin.
Pour the onion mixture into the soup and mix well. Taste and adjust seasoning if necessary, and serve sprinkled with a little extra cumin.
* * *
chourba adas wa isbanekh
lentil and spinach soup
Cheap, simple and economical, this is a traditional peasant soup from Mesopotamia (Syria and Iraq). It has been passed down unaltered through the centuries and is a favourite of all – rich and poor, nomad and village dweller alike.
* * *
2½ fl oz (75ml) oil
1 large onion, thickly sliced
2½ pints (1.5 litres) water
3 oz (75g) brown lentils, picked over and rinsed well
8 oz (225g) fresh spinach
1½ teaspoons salt
½ teaspoon chilli pepper juice of 1 lemon
Heat the oil in a large saucepan, add the onion and fry until soft. Add the water and lentils, bring to the boil, cover and simmer for about 30 minutes, or until the lentils are just tender.
Meanwhile, trim and thoroughly wash the spinach and then chop coarsely.
When the lentils are just tender add the spinach, salt, pepper and lemon juice. Stir well, simmer for a further 10 minutes and adjust seasoning if necessary.
Serve hot with fresh bread.
* * *
ashe lubi kharmez-ba-esfanaj
red bean and spinach soup
A nourishing soup from Iran, this is often eaten, with bread, as a main meal.
* * *
4 oz (110g) red kidney beans, soaked overnight in cold water
2½ pints (1.5 litres) water
2 tablespoons oil
1 onion, finely chopped
1 teaspoon turmeric
1 teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon chilli pepper
½ teaspoon black pepper
4 oz (110g) lentils, washed and drained
2 oz (50g) long-grain rice, washed thoroughly under cold water and drained
½ lb (225g) fresh spinach, washed very thoroughly, drained and chopped juice of 1 large lemon
Drain the beans and place in a saucepan with 1 pint (600ml) of the water. Bring to the boil, lower the heat and simmer until the beans are tender. Add a little more boiling water if necessary. Set aside.
Heat the oil in a large saucepan, add the onion and fry, stirring frequently, until soft and golden. Stir in the turmeric, salt, chilli, black pepper and the lentils, and fry for 1–2 minutes. Add the remaining 1½ pints (900ml) water and the contents of the bean pan and bring to the boil. Simmer for a further 30 minutes.
Stir in the rice and spinach and cook for a further 20 minutes. Test to see if the lentils are tender; if not, cook them a little longer.
Stir in the lemon juice; taste and adjust the seasoning, if necessary, before serving.
* * *
brasi-tahinabour
leek and tahina soup
Although delicious hot, this soup is usually served at room temperature. Do not reheat any leftover soup as it has a tendency to curdle. Simply remove it from the refrigerator and leave it to come to room temperature. A regional speciality from Southern Turkey (Cilician Armenia) whence most tahina-based dishes originate, and one of the famed Lenten dishes of the Armenian Apostolic Church.
* * *
4 oz (110g) chickpeas, soaked overnight in cold water
2½ pints (1.5 litres) water
3 leeks
4 spring onions
1½ teaspoons salt
¼ pint (150ml) tahina paste
2 fl oz (60ml) olive oil
1 tablespoon dried mint
Drain the chickpeas, place in a large saucepan, cover with the water and bring to the boil. Simmer until tender, adding more boiling water if necessary.
Meanwhile, trim the roots and any bruised leaves from the leeks and spring onions. Chop the vegetables into ½in (1cm) pieces, place in a colander and rinse very thoroughly under cold water to remove all the sand and grit.
When the chickpeas are tender, check that there is still about 2½ pints (1.5 litres) of liquid in the pan. Add the vegetables and salt; stir well and simmer, covered, for about 15 minutes or until the vegetables are tender. Place the tahina in a bowl and stir until smooth. Add a tablespoon of the soup and stir briskly.
Gradually stir in several more spoonfuls of the soup, then stir the tahina mixture back into the soup. Remove it from the heat.
Place the oil in a small pan and heat well. Add the mint to the oil, then pour the mixture into the soup. Stir once to swirl the mint through the soup, then set aside until it reaches room temperature before serving.
* * *
dabanabour
vegetable soup
This is a famed Armenian soup also known as 'Noah's Ark Soup'. It hails, as the name suggests, from the region of Ararat in Western Armenia. The vegetables listed below are really only suggestions. You can use whatever is available and include your own personal favourites.
* * *
2 potatoes, peeled
2 carrots, peeled
1 leek, trimmed
2 sticks celery, trimmed
2 tomatoes, blanched and peeled
2 courgettes, trimmed
1 turnip, peeled
3 pints (1.8 litres) water
2 bay leaves
1½ teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon black pepper
1 teaspoon thyme
1 oz (25g) butter
1 onion, finely chopped
Dice all the vegetables, wash and put in a large saucepan with the water. Bring to the boil, lower the heat and simmer for about 20 minutes until the vegetables are almost cooked. Add the bay leaves, salt, pepper and thyme and cook for a further 10–15 minutes.
Meanwhile, melt the butter in a small saucepan and fry the chopped onion until golden. Add the onion and butter to the soup, stir well, taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary.
(Continues…)
Excerpted from "Vegetarian Dishes from the Middle East"
by .
Copyright © 2008 Arto der Haroutunian.
Excerpted by permission of Grub Street.
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