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CHAPTER 1
Chocolate: Essentials, Production and Products
From bean to chocolate
'In the beginning was the bean' is more or less how it goes. This is how the story of chocolate starts. However, there are many steps in the manufacturing process that takes the harvested cocoa beans to the three main end products of cocoa butter, cocoa powder and chocolate confectionery. The following is a brief outline of the main steps and a description of the individual intermediate and end products, which are also of interest for the recipes.
The cocoa bean – where it all begins
Cocoa beans are the starting point for each of the following products. The main producers of cocoa beans are Ivory Coast, Ghana and Indonesia. Cocoa beans themselves can actually be eaten (the broken up beans are known as cocoa nibs), although this use is not widespread and, for many, it takes a lot of getting used to. The beans are a valuable and appreciated resource that further processing will turn into a series of products. The cocoa beans are prepared for further processing by cleaning and roasting. Basically, roasting brings out the aroma of chocolate, making this an essential step. The beans are then shelled and ready for the next step in the process.
Cocoa mass
The roasted and shelled beans are milled and turned into a liquid, known as cocoa mass or cocoa liquor. This is only an intermediate product and forms the base of the subsequent production of cocoa butter, cocoa powder and, finally, chocolate confectionery, which will involve more processing with additional cocoa butter and, depending on the type of chocolate, with a wide variety of other ingredients.
Cocoa butter
Cocoa butter is the oil extracted from cocoa mass. Cocoa butter is solid at room temperature and ideally should not contain any water, which is why it's also suitable for use where it needs to be melted with chocolate (unlike butter or margarine; for more see 'the correct way to heat and melt chocolate' on p. 14). Cocoa butter is a yellowish-white colour, which is a surprise for many who see it for the first time. It is the same colour as white chocolate, which is no coincidence, since the two products are directly related. Only cocoa butter goes into white chocolate. No cocoa powder is used. This is why white chocolate has the characteristic colour of cocoa butter and not the dark colour of cocoa powder. The following principle basically applies: the lighter the chocolate, the higher the proportion of cocoa butter.
Cocoa powder
Aside from chocolate confectionery, cocoa powder is probably the most widely used and popular product made from cocoa beans. It's extremely versatile, easy to use and immediately adds a wonderful chocolatey aroma. After the cocoa butter is extracted from cocoa mass, cocoa powder is left as a dry product. Unlike cocoa butter, cocoa powder has a dark, chocolatey colour. Depending on how thoroughly the cocoa mass is defatted, i.e. depending on how much cocoa butter is extracted from it, the result is lightly defatted or extensively defatted cocoa powder. The difference between both varieties is very significant. Lightly defatted cocoa powder is characterised by an intense and rounded flavour, while the extensively defatted variety is more soluble in water owing to its lower residual oil content, and is therefore more widely used in beverages. My recipes only make use of lightly defatted cocoa powder.
Chocolate as an end product
It is a long process to make the internationally prized and popular end product that is high-quality chocolate. After the desired amount of cocoa butter and any other ingredients are added to the cocoa mass, the process involves quite a few more steps. The first step is about achieving a fine texture. Absolutely no rough lumps should be felt on the tongue that will spoil the enjoyment of the chocolate. To achieve this, the chocolate is passed through several rollers and, depending on preference, is rolled down to thinness of a few micrometres. Only this refining process will ensure that the chocolate will feel soft as it melts in the mouth, and not have a rough feel. The final two steps are conching and tempering. Broadly speaking, the first of these steps involves the chocolate being heated to a high temperature and mixed for many hours. The aim of this is to allow any moisture to escape and to achieve a smooth flavour. The last step, tempering, is ultimately responsible for the chocolate having the right crystalline structure. Last but not least, it gives chocolate its characteristic gloss and the popping sound we expect from a good chocolate when broken. Crystals can form in as many as six different ways, but only one is desirable. After conching, tempering involves gentle, precise and controlled cooling of the chocolate and temporarily maintaining the liquid chocolate at a certain temperature. The conched and tempered chocolate is then poured into the desired mould and slowly allowed to cool, before being packaged. Depending on the cocoa mass content, a distinction is made between white, milk and dark chocolate.
The correct way to heat and melt chocolate
How to melt chocolate the right way and why in certain circumstances there can be undesirable results from the melting process are questions that are often asked. Here is a quick lesson on the basics of melting chocolate correctly.
There are two ways of melting chocolate: the conventional way over a bain-marie, and in a microwave. When melting chocolate over a bain-marie, the bowl should not come into contact with the water; the chocolate is melted slowly by the rising steam. The best thing is to use a chrome-plated steel bowl that is a bit larger than the diameter of the saucepan. Chrome-plated steel distributes the heat the best and ensures even melting. The chocolate should be stirred gently, so that not too many air bubbles will form in the chocolate. For this reason, a rubber scraper or spatula is better for stirring than a whisk.
Melting chocolate in the microwave is very popular and is often the easier option. Caution: Use a low setting and check from time to time that the bottom of the bowl isn't too hot. Otherwise, there is a risk of burning the chocolate. Here's another tip: The more finely you chop the chocolate before melting, the more evenly it will melt, both in the microwave and over a bainmarie.
Regardless of the option you choose, there are two basic principles that you need to bear in mind.
1. Chocolate is extremely sensitive to heat and should be melted slowly on a low heat or at a low setting. Ideally, dark chocolate should never be heated to over 40°C/104°F. Milk chocolate requires a lower temperature. The molecular structure of chocolate can be modified at high temperatures, causing it to thicken, for instance. This may not be so important for most of the recipes as the melted chocolate will be incorporated into a mixture anyway. However, it is important in two cases: when the recipe calls for very runny melted chocolate (for example, the chocolate sushi), or when the melted chocolate is going to be cooled again to give it the same properties as chocolate confectionery, for instance, if you ever want to make your own chocolates.
2. Chocolate and water don't get on well. The addition of water or ingredients with a high water content (such as milk or soya milk) causes the chocolate to thicken, or even worse, the cocoa butter to separate from the rest of the chocolate, giving it a gritty consistency.
If this happens, the chocolate is beyond saving, so you'll have to start over again. This is the reason for using cocoa powder when making cakes. The batter is usually made with ingredients that contain a lot of water. And this is also why the bowl should completely cover the saucepan when melting chocolate over a bain-marie. Otherwise, there's a risk that steam will enter the bowl of chocolate and ruin the result.
If the chocolate for a recipe has to be very runny or needs to retain its original qualities, it's essential to ensure that no water, steam or any ingredients that contain water come into contact with the chocolate.
3. This principle also applies, at least in theory, for melting chocolate together with margarine. As margarine contains some water (as does butter), there's also a risk that the chocolate will thicken. Chocolate should only be melted with margarine if any possible thickening doesn't pose a problem for the recipe, such as when making a cake. Chocolate that has thickened, and even chocolate that has passed its use-by date are suitable for this use. It is common to combine chocolate with margarine to 'lighten' the chocolate or to give it the aroma of butter, and you will find a number of recipes in this book where chocolate and margarine are melted together. Of course, this is only possible when thickening isn't a problem for the finished product.
4. A tip for making a simple version of 'lightened' dark chocolate without the risk of thickening and without the use of margarine: cocoa butter makes an excellent alternative. Cocoa butter is available in organic food shops, gourmet food shops and online.
CHAPTER 2
Spreads and Jams
Vegan Nutella
This vegan nut spread can keep in the refrigerator for several weeks and will gain in intensity.
Makes 1 jar
Difficulty *
Preparation time: 5 minutes plus cooling time
75 g /3 oz vegan dark chocolate (45–55 % cocoa solids)
60 g/5 tbsp vegan margarine
75 g/6 tbsp hazelnut butter (see tip)
30 ml/2 tbsp agave syrup or 40 g/1/3 cup sifted icing sugar
5 g/1 tsp white almond butter (optional)
Slowly melt the chocolate with the margarine over a bain-marie. Add the hazelnut butter and agave syrup or icing sugar, keeping the bowl over the bain-marie.
Use a whisk to stir the mixture until there are no lumps. Optionally, add white almond butter and stir again. Remove from the heat, pour into the jar and leave to cool. (Picture on p. 17)
Tips
As an alternative to hazelnut butter, lightly toast 65 g/9 tbsp of ground hazelnuts in a non-stick frying pan for 2–3 minutes and add to the melted chocolate. You can also add finely chopped nuts to the finished spread to make a 'crunchy' version.
This spread also makes a wonderful filling for the chocolate yeast rolls (see p. 82).
Dark Chocolate Spread
You can make this recipe for a delicious vegan dark chocolate spread in a flash. It also has a very long shelf life when stored outside the refrigerator.
Makes 1 jar
Difficulty *
Preparation time: 5 minutes plus cooling time
90 g/7 tbsp refined coconut oil
90 g/¾ cup sifted icing sugar
40 g/1/3 cup lightly defatted cocoa powder (see tip)
1 pinch salt 1 pinch Bourbon vanilla powder (optional)
Slowly heat the coconut oil in a frying pan until completely melted. Add the other ingredients and stir with a whisk to a smooth cream. Remove from the heat, pour into the jar and leave to cool. The spread is quite creamy at room temperature and will firm up in the refrigerator. (Picture on p. 16)
Tip
I prefer to use 50 g/½ cup of cocoa powder because I like a strong taste of chocolate. But if you prefer a milder flavour, use 40 g/1/3 cup.
Chocolate Coconut Spread
Makes 1 small jar
Difficulty *
Preparation time: 5 minutes plus cooling time
75 g/2/3 cup sifted icing sugar
4 tbsp coconut milk, or another plant-based milk
50 g/¼ cup cold-pressed coconut oil (see tip)
4 tsp desiccated coconut
1 pinch salt
2 tbsp lightly defatted cocoa powder
Dissolve the icing sugar completely in the coconut milk. Heat the coconut oil until it is completely melted. Add the other ingredients and stir everything well with a whisk. Allow to cool, and then fill a jar.
The spread is quite creamy at room temperature and will firm up in the refrigerator. Although it needs to be stored in the refrigerator, it should be taken out some time before use. The spread will keep in the refrigerator for about 2 weeks. (Picture on p. 17)
Tip
The use of unrefined coconut oil will give this spread a strong coconut flavour. If you can't find virgin coconut oil, you can use refined coconut oil, but the coconut flavour won't be so intense.
In that case, you'll have to use coconut milk instead of another plant-based milk.
Dark Chocolate and Orange Cream
This cream is really quick to make and is the perfect topping for bread or pancakes.
Makes 1 small jar
Difficulty *
Preparation time: 5 minutes plus at least 2 hours cooling time 50 g/¼ cup vegan margarine or refined coconut oil
75 g/2/3 cup sifted icing sugar
50 ml/¼ cup freshly squeezed orange juice
25 g/¼ cup lightly defatted cocoa powder
1 pinch salt
1/8 tsp Bourbon vanilla powder
Melt the margarine in a saucepan or in the microwave. Dissolve the icing sugar completely in the orange juice. Add all the ingredients to the melted margarine and stir with a whisk.
Pour into a jar and leave to cool for at least 2 hours. Stir well before use. This cream can keep in the refrigerator for about 1 week. (Picture on p. 16)
Quick Strawberry Jam with Dark Chocolate
Makes 1 jar
Difficulty *
Preparation time: 10 minutes plus cooling time
250 g/2 cups ripe strawberries
1 tbsp freshly squeezed lemon juice
200 g/7/8 cup jam sugar
40 g/1½ oz vegan dark chocolate (45–55 % cocoa solids)
Wash, pat dry and hull the strawberries, and purée thoroughly with a hand-held blender. Mix with the lemon juice and jam sugar, and then combine with the chocolate in a saucepan. Bring to the boil and leave to boil for 5 minutes over a medium to high heat. Immediately pour into a clean jar and seal tightly. Leave to cool. Store in the refrigerator after opening.
Caramel Royale Sauce with Chocolate Shavings
Caramel lovers would love to bathe in this sauce. The sauce tastes good on pancakes, cakes, muffins, bread, or just on a spoon.
Makes 1 jar
Difficulty **
Preparation time: 10 minutes plus at least 2 hours cooling time
200 ml/scant 1 cup coconut milk
150 g/5/8 cup sugar
1 dash lemon juice
100 g/3¾ oz vegan dark chocolate (45–55 % cocoa solids)
Combine 100 ml/scant ½ cup of coconut milk with the sugar and lemon juice in a saucepan and bring to the boil over a high heat. Slightly reduce the heat while keeping at a vigorous boil, and stir constantly with a whisk until the colour changes from white to light brown (this should take about 5 minutes). Be very careful because this change is very sudden. When hardly any more bubbles come up, this is a sign that it is almost ready.
Then continue to cook until the caramel turns a deep golden colour. If you remove the caramel from the heat too soon, it will be too light and its flavour won't be very intense, but you don't want it to cook for too long and become too dark.
Now add the rest of the coconut milk, return the saucepan to the heat and stir the sauce constantly for 2 minutes until smooth. Pour the sauce into a jar, leave to cool, and then refrigerate for at least 2 hours.
Finely chop or grate the chocolate, fold into the sauce and return it to the refrigerator. Stir briefly before each use.
Tip
Making caramel takes a little practice, so don't despair if it isn't perfect the first time.
Biscuits, Muffins, Cupcakes and Brownies
Best-Ever American Brownies
Makes 20–30
Difficulty *
Preparation time: 10 minutes plus 25-35 minutes baking time
115 g/1 cup shelled walnuts
150 g/5 oz vegan dark chocolate (45–55% cocoa solids)
290 g/2½ cups light wheat or spelt flour
300 g/1¼ cups sugar
1½ tsp baking powder
90 g/¾ cup lightly defatted cocoa powder
1 tsp Bourbon vanilla powder
1 level tsp salt
2 tsp white wine vinegar
200 ml/scant 1 cup refined rapeseed oil
Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F.
Coarsely chop the walnuts and lightly roast in a dry frying pan. They shouldn't turn too dark, but they should develop the typical roasted aroma.
Coarsely or finely chop the chocolate, according to preference, and mix together with all the dry ingredients in a bowl, including the roasted walnuts. Add 250 ml/1 cup of water, the vinegar and oil and beat together briskly until smooth.
Spread out the mixture over a baking tray lined with baking parchment to form a 30 x 33 cm/12 x 13 in rectangle, and bake for 25-35 minutes. After cooling, cut into squares of the desired size. The brownies should still be a little moist. (Picture on p. 26)
(Continues…)
Excerpted from "Vegan Chocoholic"
by .
Copyright © 2015 AT Verlag, Aarau and Munich.
Excerpted by permission of Grub Street.
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