Traditional Jewish Baking: Retro Recipes Your Grandma Would Make. If She Had a Mixer
192
Traditional Jewish Baking: Retro Recipes Your Grandma Would Make. If She Had a Mixer
192eBook
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Overview
Celebrate Beloved Keepsake Recipes with Modern Techniques
Learn the best of Grandma’s baking secrets, and make them approachable with new and simple techniques. Thanks to Carine Goren, a baking phenomenon on Israeli TV, you can learn how to make deliciously nostalgic treats straight from the homeland like Bubbe would. Carine spent years researching and testing grandmothers’ loved and cherished recipes to learn what “as it feels” and “by the eye” really mean.
Carine shows readers how to re-create the best versions of timeless and traditional Jewish baked goods in today’s cutting-edge kitchens—from exceptional cakes, distinctive pies, standout cookies, festive holiday desserts and special homemade candies to some delicious new favorites—all of which are bound to satisfy any sweet tooth. Enjoy a tasty trip down memory lane, and let the incredible flavors of the past go straight to your heart.
Product Details
| ISBN-13: | 9781624142758 |
|---|---|
| Publisher: | Page Street Publishing |
| Publication date: | 10/11/2016 |
| Sold by: | Macmillan |
| Format: | eBook |
| Pages: | 192 |
| Sales rank: | 255,074 |
| File size: | 22 MB |
| Note: | This product may take a few minutes to download. |
About the Author
Read an Excerpt
Traditional Jewish Baking
Retro Recipes Your Grandma Would Make ... If She Had A Mixer
By Carine Goren, Hanna Ben Tzvi-Goren
Page Street Publishing Co.
Copyright © 2016 Carine GorenAll rights reserved.
ISBN: 978-1-62414-275-8
CHAPTER 1
THE CRÈME DE LA CRÈME
Nostalgic creamy desserts and whipped cream cakes — to me they are the best reason for having teaspoons in the house!
Black Forest Cake
Decadent, impressive and gorgeous, the Black Forest cake was the most festive creation in old-day confectionary shops (I dare you to wrap your tongues around its German name — Schwarzwälder kirschtorte). My version is a moist chocolate cake (a torte would be drier), with layers of whipped cream and cherries, and the most important thing — as corny as possible — with whipped cream roses, chocolate garnish and, of course, candied cherries. In my opinion, if you put in the time and effort to make such a cake, then you might as well go all out!
ONE 9-INCH (23-CM) CAKE
FOR THE CHOCOLATE CAKE
2 eggs
½ cup (120ml) vegetable oil
1 cup (240ml) buttermilk
1 cup (240ml) water
2 cups (400g) sugar
¾ cup (100g) cocoa
½ tsp salt
2 cups (280g) all-purpose flour
2 tsp (8g) baking powder
1 tsp baking soda
FOR THE CHERRIES AND SYRUP
1 (24-oz [680-g]) jar cherries in light syrup
Kirsch liquor or sweet wine (optional)
FOR THE WHIPPED CREAM FILLING AND GARNISH
3 cups (750ml) whipping cream
½ cup (100g) sugar
3 tbsp (30g) vanilla-flavored instant pudding mix
6 oz (150g) dark chocolate, divided
12 candied cherries
To make the cake, preheat the oven to 325 °F (160 °C). Line two 9-inch (23-cm) pans with circles of parchment paper and grease the paper.
In a mixer on low speed, beat the eggs, oil, buttermilk, water, sugar, cocoa and salt for about 1 minute, until fully combined. Add the flour, baking powder and baking soda, and beat for another minute, until the batter is smooth and a little runny.
Pour the batter into the prepared pans, and bake for 40 minutes, until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out with moist crumbs. Remove from the oven and let cool completely. Slice each cake in half horizontally so you have 4 layers.
To prepare the cherries, strain the canned cherries, and save the syrup to moisten the cake. You may add a little Kirsch liquor or sweet wine to the syrup. Check for pits; you don't want any in the cake.
To make the whipped cream, in a mixer, beat together the whipping cream, sugar and pudding mix to a firm whipped cream. Spoon about a quarter of the whipped cream into a piping bag with a serrated tip and keep in the refrigerator (to decorate the cake later on).
Place one layer of cake on a serving platter, brush with the syrup, and spread an even layer of whipped cream. Spread one-third of the cherries over the cream. Put a second layer of cake on top, brush with syrup, spread an even layer of whipped cream and spread a handful of cherries. Repeat the layers one more time. Put the fourth and last layer of cake on top, and cover the whole assembly with the rest of the whipped cream.
In a microwave oven, melt 4 ounces (100g) of the chocolate. Put the melted chocolate in a small piping bag (or use a sandwich bag and cut the tip off).
On a parchment-lined baking tray, pipe crisscross lines of the melted chocolate, creating little chocolate "meshes" slightly taller than the cake itself. Put in the freezer for 5 minutes to set.
Use the cream you put in a piping bag earlier to pipe 12 roses on top of the cake, and put a candied cherry on top of each rose. Stick the chocolate crisscross garnishes to the sides of the cake. With a vegetable peeler, make chocolate "curls" from the remaining 2 ounces (50g) chocolate, and pile them in the center. Keep in the refrigerator and serve cold.
Place one layer of cake on a serving platter, brush with syrup, and spread with whipped cream. Spread a handful of cherries.
Put a second layer of cake on top, brush with syrup, spread an even layer of whipped cream and spread a handful of cherries.
Repeat the layers one more time, put the fourth layer on top, and frost the cake with the rest of the whipped cream.
Stick the chocolate crisscross garnishes to the sides of the cake.
GRANDMA KNOWS BEST
You can make buttermilk at home; it's very easy. Mix 1 cup (240ml) of milk with a teaspoon of vinegar, set aside for 10 minutes and — hey, presto — homemade buttermilk!
Shulah's Upgraded Meringue Whipped Cream
I met my own private chef when we were seventeen. He was a cadet at the military boarding school in Haifa and I attended the adjacent Reali High School, so we were in the same class. During a break, we snuck into his room and he offered me a cake his mother had brought when she came to visit on Shabbat. It stuck in my memory as the best thing I had ever eaten in my life, probably because at that point, I was already head-over-heels ...
This is a time-honored Hanna Shaulov recipe, upgraded and upgraded again by my mother-in-law, substituting the margarine with butter, store-bought syrup with homemade chocolate ganache and so on. This cake is best prepared and assembled a day ahead, because it improves after a night in the refrigerator.
ONE 13 X 11-INCH (33 X 28-CM) CAKE
FOR THE CRUST
2 cups (280g) all-purpose flour
1 tsp baking powder
½ cup (100g) sugar
7 oz (200g) cold butter, diced
4 egg yolks (save the whites for the meringue)
FOR THE MERINGUE
4 egg whites
1 cup (200g) sugar
FOR THE COFFEE-FLAVORED WHIPPED
CREAM FILLING
2 cups (480ml) whipping cream
½ cup (100g) sugar
1 tbsp (8g) instant coffee powder
FOR THE GARNISH
1 oz (30g) dark chocolate
2 tbsp (30ml) whipping cream
To make the crust, preheat the oven to 350 °F (180 °C). Line a 13 x 11-inch (33 x 28-cm) cake pan with parchment paper.
In a food processor, mix together the flour, baking powder, sugar and butter cubes to a flaky consistency. Add the yolks, and mix only until a ball of dough is formed. Press the dough into the prepared pan and bake for about 20 minutes, until the crust has risen, is golden and is baked all the way through. Set aside to cool.
To make the meringue, lower the oven temperature to 250 °F (120 °C).
In a mixer, beat the egg whites at medium speed for 1 minute, until a white froth with large bubbles forms. Gradually, add the sugar and beat until stiff and shiny.
On a sheet of parchment paper, draw a rectangle the size of the baking pan. Place the parchment sheet face down (so the ink doesn't touch the meringue) on a baking sheet. Spread all of the meringue in a thick layer within the lines marked on the parchment sheet. Bake for 3 hours, until the meringue is dry to the touch, beginning to turn gold and easily comes off the paper. Set aside until completely cool.
Right before assembly, make the coffee whipped cream filling. In a mixer, beat together the whipping cream, sugar and instant coffee, until thick and firm. Spread the whipped cream on the baked base, cover with the meringue and press down carefully.
To make the garnish, in a microwave oven, heat the chocolate and whipping cream until melted through, and whisk together to get a smooth sauce. Decorate the meringue by drizzling with the chocolate sauce.
Keep in the refrigerator for 2–3 hours (preferably overnight) before serving. Serve cold.
GRANDMA KNOWS BEST
If you don't have an extra 2 tablespoons (30ml) whipping cream for the chocolate sauce, you can "steal" 2 tablespoons (30ml) from the filling (or simply mix the melted chocolate with a teaspoon of oil to make it thinner).
Israeli Cremeschnitte (Napoleon Cake)
Not to be confused with the delicate Parisian mille-feuille (French for "a thousand leaves"), the cremeschnitte (or Napoleon, as it is sometimes called) is its flaky sister from the 'hood. Whereas the mille-feuille has thin, dense layers of pastry, baked under the weight of another baking tray, the cremeschnitte has thick, fluffy layers of puff pastry, and its only garnish is tons of powdered sugar on top. The European variety was originally made with a single layer of filling between two sheets of pastry; however, in Israel, another layer was added for a more impressive result.
ONE 14-INCH (35.5-CM) CAKE (8 SERVINGS)
FOR THE CRÈME PÂTISSIÈRE
2 cups (480ml) milk
1 tsp vanilla extract
4 egg yolks
¼ cup (40g) cornstarch
½ cup (100g) granulated sugar
FOR THE PUFF PASTRY LAYERS
1 lb (450g) frozen, pre-rolled puff pastry, defrosted
About 1 cup (200g) granulated sugar, for sprinkling
FOR THE WHIPPED CREAM
2 tbsp (25g) granulated sugar
1 cup (240ml) whipping cream
FOR THE GARNISH
Powdered sugar
To make the crème pâtissière, begin at least 4 hours before you plan to serve, to allow time for cooling and setting. In a large pot over medium-high heat, heat the milk and vanilla until almost boiling. At the same time, in a bowl, whisk together the egg yolks, cornstarch and granulated sugar to a light, creamy consistency. Pour a ladle of the hot milk into the yolk mixture, and whisk quickly. Transfer the yolk mixture back to the pot with the hot milk, and heat again over medium heat, whisking constantly, until the first bubbles appear (it should look like porridge).
Remove from the heat, pour into a clean bowl and immediately cover with plastic wrap (the plastic should cling to the cream to prevent a skin from forming). Let cool and then put in the refrigerator for at least 4 hours, until the cream is very cold and set.
To make the puff pastry layers, preheat the oven to 350 °F (180 °C). Generously sprinkle the granulated sugar over your work surface, and lay down the pastry sheet. Sprinkle some more sugar on the pastry sheet, and roll with a rolling pin just a little to make the sugar stick, and to get a slightly thinner sheet of pastry (about ¼-inch [6-mm] thick). Cut the pastry sheet into 3 long and narrow rectangles. Transfer the pastry rectangles to baking trays lined with parchment paper, and poke with a fork. Bake for approximately 20 minutes, until golden and very fluffy. Let cool completely.
Use an empty (and clean) baking tray to gently press down on the baked pastry sheets to flatten and achieve an even thickness. Turn the pastry sheets upside down (crumbs will fall, but that's okay). The edges may have twisted slightly during baking. If you want a straight and symmetrical result, use a serrated bread knife to trim about ¼ inch (6mm) off each side.
To make the whipped cream, in a mixer, beat the sugar and cream to a very firm whipped cream. Transfer the whipped cream to another large bowl. In the mixer bowl (no need to wash it), put the now chilled and solid crème pâtissière. Beat at high speed for 1 minute, until the crème pâtissière regains its smooth and creamy consistency. Add the crème pâtissière to the whipped cream in the big bowl, and gently fold them together with a rubber spatula.
To assemble the cake, lay the first pastry rectangle on a platter and spread (or pipe) half of the whipping cream mixture on top. Lay another rectangle on the cream and press down lightly. Spread or pipe the rest of the cream. Cut the third rectangle into smaller squares (the size of an individual portion), and lay them close together on top (this will make cutting the cake easier). Place in the refrigerator for 1 hour, so the filling will set. This ensures smooth and precise slicing. Slice and sprinkle with the powdered sugar for garnish.
GRANDMA KNOWS BEST
A famous French pastry chef once told me that they prepare the mille-feuille four times a day in their pâtissière, because it must be super-fresh. I don't think we must be so fussy; however, it is recommended to prepare this cake on the day of serving or one day ahead at the most, because the puff pastry quickly absorbs moisture from the filling and from the refrigerator, and it softens.
Bavarian Cream
Bavarian cream needs a lot of work and TLC; the vanilla cream must be cooked, the gelatin dissolved and the whipping cream and egg whites whipped (separately). Then they all must be folded together and set aside to cool for 4 hours. However, it is sooo worth it! This dessert will take you smiling down memory lane and fill you with sweet nostalgia. The Israeli steakhouse Bavaria of yesteryear had always been nondairy. This recipe, however, is a rich and creamy version that is sweeter than those memories. If you are put off by the raw eggs, let me refer you to here, where you will find another recipe (the "cheat") without eggs, which is also great.
ONE 13 X 11-INCH (33 X 28-CM) PAN
FOR THE GELATIN MIXTURE
1 oz (28g) gelatin powder
1 tbsp (12g) sugar
½ cup (120ml) water
FOR THE WHIPPED CREAM
2 cups (480ml) whipping cream
FOR THE VANILLA CREAM
6 egg yolks (save the whites for the meringue)
2 tbsp (20g) cornstarch
¾ cup (150g) sugar
1 tbsp (15ml) vanilla extract
2 cups (480ml) milk
FOR THE MERINGUE
6 egg whites
½ cup (100g) sugar
FOR SERVING
Chocolate syrup
Chopped walnuts
To make the gelatin mixture, combine the gelatin powder with the sugar. Pour the water into a bowl, sprinkle the gelatin and sugar mix over the water and set aside to dissolve.
To make the whipped cream, in a mixer, beat the whipping cream to soft peaks. Transfer to a clean bowl and put in the refrigerator (do not clean the mixer bowl or the whisk attachment — use them right away for the vanilla cream).
To make the vanilla cream, in a small pan (not yet on the stove), combine the egg yolks, cornstarch, sugar and vanilla and whisk vigorously for 1 minute, until the mixture lightens. Add the milk, and continue to whisk until combined. Put the pot on the stove over medium heat and continue whisking until the mixture thickens and begins to boil. When the first bubbles appear, take the pot off the heat, and immediately pour the egg yolk mixture into the mixer bowl. Beat at high speed for 5 minutes, until the vanilla cream cools to room temperature (it won't rise or froth; it will just cool).
In a microwave oven, heat the gelatin until it melts, about 20 seconds (take care not to boil). Add it to the vanilla cream, and beat until incorporated. Pour the cream into a clean bowl and set aside.
To make the meringue, thoroughly clean the mixer bowl and whisk. In the clean mixer bowl, beat the egg whites at medium speed until a soft white froth forms. With the mixer still on medium speed, gradually add the sugar, a spoonful at a time, waiting 10 seconds between spoonfuls. After all of the sugar has been incorporated, continue to beat for another 2 minutes.
Add the vanilla cream to the meringue in the mixer bowl, and beat together at low speed until incorporated. Add the whipped cream and, again, beat until incorporated. Pour the batter into an oiled 13 x 11-inch (33 x 28-cm) pan, and put in the refrigerator for 4 hours before serving.
To serve, cut into small squares, decorate with the chocolate syrup and garnish with the chopped walnuts. Serve cold. Keep any extra in the refrigerator.
"Bavarian Cheat" (without eggs)
Thanks to this version, I could treat my pregnant sister (and the unborn Emma) to Bavarian cream.
MAKES ONE 13 X 11-INCH (33 X 28-CM) PAN
2 cups (480ml) milk
1 oz (28g) gelatin
1 cup (200g) sugar
3 cups (750g) prepared vanilla-flavored pudding
1 cup (250g) cream cheese
1 cup (250g) Greek yogurt
2 cups (480ml) whipping cream
Pour the milk into a pot, sprinkle the gelatin over the milk, and set aside to dissolve.
In a bowl, combine the sugar, pudding, cream cheese and yogurt. Set aside for 5 minutes, until the sugar is completely dissolved.
Over medium heat, heat the milk and gelatin mixture while stirring, until the gelatin has melted and the milk is hot (make sure it doesn't boil). Add all of the hot milk and gelatin mixture to the pudding and cheese mixture, and whisk until smooth.
In a mixer, beat the whipping cream to soft peaks, add to the cheese mixture and stir until combined. Pour into a 13 x 11-inch (33 x 28-cm) pan, and cool for 4 hours before serving. Don't forget to decorate with chocolate syrup and chopped walnuts.
Easy No Yeast Family-Style Savarin
Well, this is not really a proper savarin — it is a simple sponge cake, soaked in syrup and topped with whipped cream. However, the moistness and flavor combination are reminiscent of the real thing.
ONE 9 ½-INCH (24-CM) ROUND CAKE
FOR THE CAKE
2 eggs
½ cup (100g) sugar
1 cup (240g) sour cream
1 cup (120g) all-purpose flour
1 tsp baking powder
1 cup (240ml) cold water
FOR THE SYRUP
1 cup (200g) sugar
1 cup (240ml) water
A few drops rum extract
FOR THE WHIPPED CREAM
AND GARNISH
2 cups (480ml) whipping cream
5 tbsp (60g) sugar
2 tbsp (24g) vanilla-flavored instant pudding mix
16 candied cherries
Preheat the oven to 350 °F (180 °C) and grease a 9 ½-inch (24-cm) round pan.
To make the cake, in a bowl, whisk together the eggs, sugar, sour cream, flour and baking powder. Spread the batter in the prepared pan and bake until golden, about 20 minutes (the cake will come out low, and that's okay). Pour the cold water over the cake, and let cool completely.
To make the syrup, in a small pan, bring the sugar and water to a boil, add a few drops of rum extract and boil for 2 minutes. Moisten the cake with the syrup and cool a little.
To make the whipped cream, beat the whipping cream, sugar and pudding mix to stiff peaks, spread over the cake and garnish with the candied cherries. Chill in the refrigerator for 2 hours before serving.
GRANDMA KNOWS BEST
Have your savarins disintegrated? No biggie: it happens to the best of us, because the line between a perfectly soaked, solid savarin and one that "drank" too much is fine indeed. To minimize the risk, the soaking process must be slow, gradual and controlled, so I put the savarins in a hot but not boiling syrup. In the future, simply cut the soaking time short and everything will be fine. Ultimately, a less pretty but moist savarin is better than a perfect-looking dry one (and the whipped cream will hide any imperfections, anyway).
(Continues...)
Excerpted from Traditional Jewish Baking by Carine Goren, Hanna Ben Tzvi-Goren. Copyright © 2016 Carine Goren. Excerpted by permission of Page Street Publishing Co..
All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher.
Excerpts are provided by Dial-A-Book Inc. solely for the personal use of visitors to this web site.
Table of Contents
Contents
Title Page,Copyright Notice,
Dedication,
INTRODUCTION,
THE CRÈME DE LA CRÈME,
HOME-SWEET-HOME CAKES,
GRANDMA'S SPECIAL,
WHO STOLE THE COOKIES FROM THE COOKIE JAR?,
WHERE ARE YOU AT THE HOLIDAYS?,
I WANT CANDY,
INDEX,
ABOUT THE AUTHOR,
Copyright,