The Modern Vegetarian Kitchen

by Peter Berley

Overview

Peter Berley's mission is to show how the simple act of cooking food can enliven your senses and nourish your life––from going to the farmers' market and outfitting your kitchen with the simplest, most useful tools to learning techniques and sharing meals with friends and family. The much–admired former chef of Angelica Kitchen, one of New York City's finest restaurants, Berley takes you through the seasons, with more than two hundred sumptuous recipes that feature each ingredient at its peak.

A cooking teacher for many years, Berley has kept the needs of his students continually in mind in this book. The recipes are written to feature the basic techniques and background information needed to create wonderful meals with fresh vegetables, fruits, and grains. He truly inspires both novice and experienced cooks to understand what they are doing and why, to learn to work with ingredients, and to apply their skills creatively. This wonderful book brings vegetarian cuisine to a whole new level.

Product Details

ISBN-13:	9780060989118
Publisher:	HarperCollins
Publication date:	09/28/2004
Edition description:	Reprint
Pages:	464
Sales rank:	992,138
Product dimensions:	7.38(w) x 9.12(h) x 1.16(d)

About the Author

Peter Berley is the owner of The North Fork Kitchen and Garden, a culinary studio where he teaches intensive workshops on modern food craft and wood-fired bread baking and cooking. The former executive chef of the world-renowned Angelica Kitchen restaurant in New York City, he holds classes at The Institute of Culinary Education and Natural Gourmet Institute. Berley has contributed to Edible Brooklyn, Food & Wine, Bon Appétit, Every Day with Rachael Ray, Natural Health, Cooking Light, and Fine Cooking magazines. His groundbreaking first book, The Modern Vegetarian Kitchen, received both the James Beard and IACP Awards. He lives with his family in South Jamesport on the North Fork of Long Island, New York.

Read an Excerpt

Chestnut Pasta with Porcini Mushrooms, Pumpkin, and Leeks

4 to 6 servings

Solio is a town high in the Swiss Alps that is the nearest thing to heaven that I have ever seen. Locally harvested porcini mushrooms and chestnuts dry in the rafters of the ancient barns that line the winding narrow backstreets of this rustic little village. That was my inspiration for this autumnal dish. The dark, musky aroma and flavor of the dried mushrooms goes particularly well with the sweetness of the pumpkin and leeks. I also add red tomatoes to brighten the color and cut through the intense earthiness of this ragout.

Chestnut flour is perishable, so make sure yours is fresh. It should smell and taste pleasingly sweet and nutty without any trace of bitterness. Store the flour tightly wrapped in the freezer.

Ingredients

For the Pasta:
2/3 cup chestnut flour
1 1/3 cups unbleached all-purpose or white bread flour, plus more for dusting
1/4 teaspoon sea salt
3 large eggs

For the Ragout:
1 ounce dried porcini mushrooms
1 1/2 cups warm water
4 tablespoons unsalted butter or extra-virgin olive oil
1 cup chopped leeks, white and tender green parts
2 tablespoons chopped garlic
4 cups peeled and roughly chopped winter squash or pumpkin
1 tablespoon chopped fresh sage
1 (28-ounce) can peeled tomatoes
Coarse sea salt
Freshly milled black pepper
1 tablespoon butter
Freshly grated Parmesan cheese for garnish
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley for garnish

Insructions

1. To make the pasta, mix the chestnut flour, 1 1/3 cups whiteflour, and salt in a bowl. Make a well in the center and crack the eggs into it. Beat the eggs with a fork and incorporate the flour from the sides of the bowl until a soft dough forms.

2. Scoop out the dough and place it on a lightly floured surface. Rinse off any flour stuck to your hands. There will probably be some flour clumps left in the bowl. Sift them through a fine strainer onto the dough and discard the scraps. Wash out the bowl.

3. Knead the dough for 15 minutes, adding additional flour if necessary, to form a smooth, firm, elastic dough. Wrap the dough in plastic and set aside to relax for 30 minutes at room temperature. (At this point it can be refrigerated for up to 24 hours.)

4. Divide the dough into four equal pieces. Work with one piece at a time, keeping the remaining dough covered with plastic wrap. Roll the dough on the counter with outstretched palms into a loose 2-foot-long cylinder the width of a thin cigar. You may need to mist the rolling surface with a spray bottle if you don't have enough friction to roll the dough. Cut off 1-inch long pieces of dough and roll them back and forth between your palms until they are approximately 3 inches long. Place the pasta on clean towels and continue to cut and roll until all the dough is used up.

5. While the pasta dries, make the ragout. Place the mushrooms in a bowl and cover with 1 1/2 cups warm water. Set them aside to soften.

6. In a heavy 3-quart saucepan or flameproof casserole over medium heat, melt the butter. Add the leeks and saute for 5 to 7 minutes, until they begin to color. Add the garlic, squash, and sage. Saute, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes.

7. Gently massage the mushrooms between your fingers. Allow the grit to settle on the bottom of the bowl. Remove the mushrooms and chop them up. Strain off and reserve 1 cup of the soaking liquid. Be careful to stop before you reach the grit.

8. Place a food mill fitted with medium disk over the vegetables and pass the tomatoes with their juice directly into the pan. Add the chopped porcini and the reserved soaking liquid, raise the heat, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for 30 to 40 minutes, until the squash is tender and the sauce has thickened. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Keep warm.

9. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and add 1 tablespoon salt. When the water returns to a boil, add the pasta and stir to prevent sticking. Cook for 6 to 8 minutes, until the pasta is al dente. Drain.

10. Transfer the pasta to a warm bowl and toss with 1 tablespoon butter. Toss again with the sauce. Serve with grated cheese and chopped parsley.

---

Warm Lentil Salad with Sun-Dried Tomatoes

4 servings

Lentils have been grown since 7000 B.C., making them one of the oldest cultivated legumes. They are indigenous to the southwestern region of Asia and southeastern Europe and are now an integral part of the cuisines of India, Eastern Europe, the Middle East, and the Mediterranean. Here, the addition of sun-dried tomatoes gives this dish a decidedly Mediterranean flavor.

Ingredients

6 to 8 dry-pack sun-dried tomatoes
1 cup green lentils, sorted and rinsed
Coarse sea salt
1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 large red onion, finely diced
1 carrot, finely diced
1/2 celery rib, finely diced
1 garlic clove, minced
Freshly squeezed juice of 1 lemon or 3 to 4 tablespoons red wine vinegar
Freshly milled black pepper
Chopped fresh parsley or cilantro for garnish

Insructions

1. In a small saucepan, combine the tomatoes with water to cover. Bring to a boil, remove the pan from the heat, and set aside.

2. In a medium saucepan, bring 2 quarts water to a boil. Add the lentils and boil, uncovered, for 15 minutes. Add 1/2 teaspoon salt and continue to boil for 10 to 15 minutes, until the lentils are tender but still hold their shape. Drain, transfer the lentils to a mixing bowl, and toss them with 1 tablespoon of the oil.

3. In a heavy skillet over medium heat, warm the remaining oil. Add the onion, carrot, and celery, and cook, stirring often, until tender, 8 to 10 minutes. Add the garlic and cook 2 minutes longer. Stir the vegetables into the lentils.

4. Drain the tomatoes, slice them into quarters, and add them to the lentil mixture.

5. Season the salad with lemon juice or vinegar, add salt and pepper to taste, and garnish with chopped parsley. Serve.

The Modern Vegetarian Kitchen. Copyright © by Peter Berley. Reprinted by permission of HarperCollins Publishers, Inc. All rights reserved. Available now wherever books are sold.

Table of Contents

	List of Illustrations	ix
	Acknowledgments	x
	Introduction	1
	Welcome to Your Kitchen	9
	Equipment Essentials	11
	Pantry Essentials	19
	Soups and Stews	25
	Stocks and Broths	29
	Seasonal Miso Soups	37
	Vegetable and Bean Soups	42
	Hearty Stews	61
	Seasonal Salads	73
	Spring	77
	Summer	82
	Autumn	86
	Winter	90
	Vegetables	95
	Spring Vegetables	98
	Summer Vegetables	105
	Mushrooms	112
	Root Vegetables and Winter Squash	114
	Cruciferous Vegetables and Greens	128
	Pasta	141
	Hot Pasta Dishes	147
	Cold Pasta Dishes	170
	Whole Grains, Polenta, Risotto, and Porridge	181
	Cooking Methods	184
	Grain Salads	187
	Pilafs and Grain Side Dishes	194
	Polentas	200
	Seasonal Risottos	206
	Croquettes and Hearty Grain Dishes	212
	Porridges	220
	Beans and Pulses	225
	Cooking Methods	228
	Dips and Spreads	231
	Bean Salads	238
	Hearty Bean Dishes	243
	Tofu, Tempeh, and Seitan: Protein-Rich Canvases	259
	Tofu	263
	Tempeh	277
	Seitan	288
	Breads	303
	Flatbreads	306
	Commercial Yeasted Breads	311
	Sourdough Breads	322
	Quickbreads	349
	Condiments and Sauces	355
	Desserts	393
	Cakes	398
	Pies, Tarts, and Fruit Desserts	403
	Puddings	421
	Brownies and Cookies	426
	Seasonal Menus for Lunch and Dinner	430
	Sources	434
	Suggested Inspirational Reading	436
	Index	438

What People are Saying About This

Michael Romano

What a wonderful book! In his days as a restaurant chef, Peter Berley never failed to provide me and countless others with soulful and delicious food. Cooking from The Vegetarian Kitchen, you'll be able to bring that same thoughtful, nourishing and informative attitude into your home. Vegetarian or not, I promise you this book will change the way you regard your kitchen, both in its physical aspect and in the wholesome, seasonal fare you'll serve your family and friends.
—(Michael Romano, executive chef/partner, Union Square Café)

Recipe

Recipes from The Modern Vegetarian Kitchen
Creamy Pumpkin-Chestnut Soup
Chestnuts were once a staple of the simple diets of working people living in the northern parts of Italy and the Swiss Alps. After the decline of the Roman Empire, when wheat was no longer available and the Spanish hadn't yet brought back corn from the New World, pasta, bread, and polenta were all made from chestnut flour. Sadly, a disease destroyed nearly all of the chestnut trees in the United States and the delicious nuts now have to be imported. Nothing smells more like late autumn to me than the smoky, sweet scent of roasting chestnuts on the sidewalks of New York.

1 pound fresh chestnuts
3 tablespoons light sesame or extra-virgin olive oil
2 cups diced onions
4 cups peeled and cubed butternut squash or pumpkin (1-inch pieces)
4 garlic cloves, peeled and left whole
Pinch hot red pepper flakes (optional)
1 cinnamon stick
1 large sprig fresh rosemary
1 bay leaf
6 cups water
1/2 teaspoon balsamic vinegar
Sea salt and freshly milled black pepper

1. In a saucepan over high heat, bring 2 quarts of water to a boil. Score the chestnuts by making an "X" with the tip of a sharp knife. Drop the chestnuts into the saucepan and boil for 30 minutes, or until they peel easily. Drain them in a colander and cool briefly under cold running water. Peel the chestnuts, reserve the meat, and discard the shells.

2. In a heavy 3- to 4-quart soup pot over medium heat, warm the oil. Add the onions and sauté for 10 minutes, until lightly browned. Add the chestnuts, squash, garlic, and red pepper. Raise the heat to medium-high and sauté, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes.

3. Make a bouquet garni by tying together with kitchen twine or wrapping in cheesecloth the cinnamon, rosemary, and bay leaf.

4. Add the water and bouquet garni and bring the mixture to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer, covered, for 30 minutes, or until the squash and chestnuts are tender. Remove and discard the bouquet garni. Add the vinegar.

5. Transfer the soup, in batches, to a blender and purée until creamy. (To avoid painful splatter burns, never fill a blender more than halfway when pureeing hot foods, or purée the soup in the pot with an immersion blender.)

6. Season with salt and pepper to taste and serve.

Yield: 6 servings

Penne with Chick-Peas, Artichokes, Fennel, and Shiitake Mushrooms

If you plan on cooking the chick-peas for this scrumptious sauce, make sure to start soaking them at least 8 hours ahead of time.

3 large globe artichokes
1 lemon
1 large fennel bulb, trimmed and chopped
1 onion, diced
Coarse sea salt
4 garlic cloves, sliced
8 to 10 fresh shiitake mushrooms, caps diced and stems reserved for broth
2 teaspoons freshly ground fennel seeds
1/4 cup dry white wine
2 sprigs thyme
1 bay leaf
2 sprigs parsley or a handful of celery leaves
1 (14-ounce) can whole peeled tomatoes
1 1/2 cups cooked chick peas (from 1/2 cup dried beans) plus 1 cup cooking liquid (or water if using canned chick-peas)
1/2 pound whole wheat or regular penne pasta
Freshly milled black pepper
1/3 cup kalamata olives, pitted and roughly chopped
Chopped fresh parsley for garnish
Parmesan cheese for garnish

1. Trim the artichokes down to the hearts and scoop out the hairy chokes. Put the hearts in a bowl of cold water acidulated with the juice of half a lemon. Add the fennel to the bowl.

2. Make a bouquet garni by tying together with kitchen twine or wrapping in cheesecloth the thyme, bay leaf, and parsley sprigs. Set aside.

3. In a wide heavy sauté pan over medium heat, warm 4 tablespoons of the oil. Add the onion and a pinch of salt and sauté for 5 to 7 minutes. Do not let the onion brown. Add the garlic and sauté for 2 minutes.

4. Drain the artichokes and fennel. Slice each heart into 4 to 6 wedges. Add them to the pan along with the fennel and mushrooms. Sauté for 5 minutes, then add the white wine and bouquet garni.

5. Pass the tomatoes and their juice through the medium holes of a food mill directly into the pan. Add the chick-peas and their juices and stir well. Raise the heat and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for 25 minutes, or until the vegetables are tender and the sauce thickens.

6. Bring a large pot of water to a boil for the pasta. Add 2 tablespoons coarse salt. When the water returns to a boil, stir in the pasta and cook until al dente. Drain the pasta, tip it into a warm serving bowl or platter, and toss with the remaining tablespoon of olive oil.

7. Remove the bouquet garni from the sauce and discard. Stir in the olives and simmer for 1 minute. Season the sauce with additional lemon juice, salt, and pepper to taste. Pour the sauce over the penne and sprinkle with chopped parsley and grated Parmesan.

Yield: 4 servings

Baked Apples with Nut Stuffing and Cider-Raisin Sauce

This comforting dessert is almost like an inverted apple crisp -- instead of topping the fruit with an oat mixture, we're stuffing it.

6 baking apples, such as Rome, Cortland, or Mutsu
Juice of half a lemon
1/2 cup raisins
1/2 cup brown sugar
1/3 cup chopped walnuts
1/3 cup whole wheat pastry flour
1/3 cup rolled oats
1/4 cup light sesame oil or unsalted butter at room temperature
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt
1 cup apple cider
1/2 cup water
2 cinnamon sticks
1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.

2. Core the apples. Peel a 1/2-inch band of skin around the tops of the apples and sprinkle with lemon juice.

3. Scatter the raisins on the bottom of a baking dish and place the apples on top.

4. In a larger bowl, combine the sugar, walnuts, flour, oats, oil, cinnamon, ginger, and salt. Fill each apple with some of the stuffing.

5. In a saucepan over high heat, combine the cider, water, cinnamon sticks, and vanilla and bring to a boil. Pour the liquid into the pan around the apples, not over them.

6. Bake the apples for 45 minutes, basting every 10 to 15 minutes, until tender.

7. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the baked apples to a platter. Pour the pan juices and raisins into a saucepan and reduce over high heat until slightly thickened. Pour the sauce over the apples.

8. Cool for about 15 to 20 minutes before serving.

Yield: 6 servings

Variation: Baked Apples with Caramel Sauce

If you want to gild the lily, try topping the baked apples with this ultra-easy caramel sauce, which is also excellent over ice cream.

To make the dish, omit the raisins from the original recipe and bake the stuffed apples in water rather than in cider. Transfer the baked apples to a platter and proceed to make the sauce.

In a saucepan over medium heat, combine 1 1/2 cups brown rice syrup, 1/2 cup maple syrup, 1/2 cup soy or dairy milk, 2 teaspoons vanilla extract, and 1 teaspoon cider vinegar. Bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to as low as possible and simmer, uncovered, for 8 to 10 minutes. Drizzle the warm sauce over the apples, or serve on the side.

Recipes from The Modern Vegetarian Kitchen by Peter Berley with Melissa Clark. Copyright © 2000 by Peter Berley.

Editorial Reviews

Our Review
From Peter Berley, former chef of New York City's excellent vegetarian restaurant Angelica Kitchen, comes this outstanding new vegetarian cookbook. Novice and expert cooks alike will delight in the breadth and variety of dishes in The Modern Vegetarian Kitchen.

A renowned cooking instructor, Berley goes to great lengths to make every recipe accessible and clear so that each dish can achieve its delicious potential. From starters and sides to entrees and desserts, these recipes use wholesome, healthy ingredients to create unique and savory vegetarian meals. Conveniently, the book also follows the seasons, offering recipes that highlight the best flavors for each time of year. Whether you're of the vegetarian persuasion or not, The Modern Vegetarian Kitchen will not disappoint!

bn.com

Peter Berley has been cooking for thirty years, and his vast experience shows in this excellent book. There is something here for everyone: sound instruction on ingredients and techniques for the beginner, inspiration and good technical information for the seasoned cook. This is an indispensable book not only for vegetarians but also for professional chefs who want to add quality vegetarian dishes to their menus.

Annemarie Colbin

Peter Berley's commitment to home cooking is clearly a strong one. The recipes—and information—in this book will serve the home cook well indeed.

Deborah Madison

What a wonderful book! In his days as a restaurant chef, Peter Berley never failed to provide me and countless others with soulful and delicious food. Cooking from this book, you'll be able to bring that same thoughtful, nourishing, and informative attitude into your home. This book will change the way you regard your kitchen, both in its physical aspect and in the wholesome, seasonal fare you'll serve your family and friends.

Michael Romano

Peter Berley cooks with an artist's touch and a philosopher's passion, then writes up the results with a joyful, clear, and personal voice. The enthusiasm here is contagious!

Mollie Katzen

A chef for seven years at the Angelica Kitchen, New York City's hip vegan restaurant, Berley focuses on how the act of cooking can nourish one's life in this (mostly) vegan cookbook. Emphasizing home-cooked meals as opposed to gourmet feasts, Berley articulates the principles and techniques behind each recipe. Based on fresh and seasonally available ingredients, the cookbook reads like a valentine to Berley's grandmother, who cooked and baked using foods from her organic garden. Although dashi, miso and tofu are becoming more familiar to American cooks, other ingredients he calls for, such as spelt, kombu and nabe mono, aren't as well known. It's impossible to appreciate Berley's world without making several special shopping trips--there's always that one ingredient you can't get at the grocery store. Berley includes instructions for broths, roll pastas and bake breads using "wild" yeast. Following his recipes to the letter requires tremendous amounts of time, as well as patience. But his recipes reward: Roasted Red Peppers are sweeter and more luscious than anything bottled, Basil-Almond Pesto is sublime for having freshly peeled almonds, and Corn and Vegetable Chowder evokes a perfect summer afternoon. For vegans, vegetarians and interested cooks seeking to explore seasonal vegetarian cuisine, this book is a must have. Illustrations not seen by PW. (Sept.) Copyright 2000 Cahners Business Information.|

Publishers Weekly - Publisher's Weekly

This is definitely a "back to basics" vegetarian cookbook with a unique twist. Berley, former chef and instructor at Angelica's Kitchen in New York, organizes his recipes first by type (e.g., soups, salads, pasta, and beans) and then by season, which this reviewer found to be extremely helpful. He also provides lots of background information and recommendations on ingredients, necessary utensils and appliances, and techniques. The recipes themselves are reminiscent of more traditional vegetarian cookbooks (such as Mollie Katzen's Moosewood titles) in that they are heartier and much less fancy than some of the recent vegetarian collections. As Berley points out in his introduction, even though these recipes are not all vegan, his book is still vegan-friendly since most of the dairy products are used as garnishes and can be eliminated. A great addition to any public library's cookbook collection.--Debra Mitts Smith, Jamaica Plain, MA Copyright 2000 Cahners Business Information.

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