Read an Excerpt
The Michigan Eco-Traveler
A Guide To Sustainable Adventures In The Great Lakes State
By Sally Barber The University of Michigan Press
Copyright © 2014 Sally Barber
All rights reserved.
ISBN: 978-0-472-03530-4
CHAPTER 1
Sail Away with Me
One need only conjure the image of a tall ship's billowing sails and graceful contour to unleash an inner longing for freedom, romance, and adventure. Powered by wind, Michigan's historic tall ship fleet is the poster child for inspired eco-adventures. A tall ship cruise creates a natural link to nature's sublime trio — water, air, and weather. Help hoist sails in the seafaring tradition, or sit back and take in breathtaking Great Lakes scenery, confident in the knowledge that your freshwater voyage is as environmentally friendly as it is exciting.
Compare the footprint of a tall ship sail with other types of recreational boating. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency acknowledged that a 70-horsepower, 2-stroke engine (power for a majority of recreational boats) operating for 60 minutes releases as much hydrocarbon pollution as an automobile travelling 5,000 miles. Considered a primary cause of water pollution, the annual volume of hydrocarbon and oil pollution in North American waters from recreational boating is thought to be 15 times more than the amount of the Exxon Valdez spill. Now, rethink the eco value of a wind-powered cruise.
The Mitten State is fortunate to host four tall ship companies, each offering an exhilarating itinerary of Great Lakes sails. From regular two-hour sails to multiday voyages, to charters, specialty, and educational sails, you can tailor a trip to your own sea adventure vision. Visit charming and historical ports. Explore uninhabited islands. Discover Great Lakes marine life while taking part in seafaring traditions. The tall ship experience is an awakening to just how fun a green adventure can be. If you catch the sailing bug, you might consider a high-action experience like kiteboarding, or curing cabin fever with an ice-sailing experience.
Cruising Lake Huron
BaySail
107 5th Street
Bay City, Michigan 48708
(989) 895-5193
www.baysailbaycity.org
Vessels: Appledore IV, Appledore V
BaySail is a private, nonprofit organization focused on promoting environmental stewardship of Lake Huron's Saginaw Bay and the Great Lakes. Each year, between 8,000 and 9,000 individuals enjoy sails aboard BaySail's schooners, the Appledore IV and the Appledore V. From April through October, opportunities exist for public sails, overnight voyaging for adults and youth, school groups, and charters. Specialty programs range from dinner sails to stargazing sails to the popular "Legends of the Saginaw Sail." The Legends sail takes passengers cruising along the riverfront into Saginaw Bay. River history is presented by a historian with live maritime music adding authenticity to the experience. Fall-color tours provide a venue for taking in the region's spectacular autumn show. Every year, BaySail is involved in port visits to a changing lineup of locations including Detroit; Cleveland, Ohio; Erie, Pennsylvania; Green Bay, Wisconsin; the Gulf of Mexico; the Atlantic Coast; Nova Scotia; and other locales.
With skilled captains at the helm, the Appledore IV and the Appledore V ply nimbly across the waters, their sails cracking in response to cool lake breezes. Both are two-masted schooners, reminiscent of the vessels which sailed the lakes during the early years of the Great Lakes shipping industry. The schooners are licensed by the U.S. Coast Guard and meet all safety regulations.
The 85-foot Appledore IV was built in 1989. It's licensed to carry 52 passengers and sleeps 14. More than 3,500 square feet of sails catch the wind to power this handsome vessel. The ship sails from Water Street docks in downtown Bay City, a historic maritime district. The 65-foot Appledore V was built in 1992. This snowbird schooner is based in Key West, Florida, in the winter and Bay City during the summer months. It's licensed to carry 32 passengers and sleeps 12.
BaySail's educational programming is nationally recognized. Its EcoSail youth program focuses on traditional Great Lakes maritime traditions and sailing techniques and also offers hands-on study of the ecosystem. The organization is involved in raising funds to construct a 6,000-square foot environmental education center along the Saginaw River. The planned green public education center will be the first of its kind amidst the Great Lakes.
BaySail's Great Lakes stewardship mission prompts a variety of measures to create the most eco-friendly sailing experience possible. When winds fail to meet power needs, ship auxiliary engines are engaged. The Appledore V has a 90-horsepower engine. The Appledore IV has a 135-horsepower engine. Both engines are powered by marine diesel fuel consisting of 10 percent biofuel. A scheduled sail is typically powered 50 percent by the engine and 50 percent by Mother Nature. The engine also charges batteries for ship lighting.
Due to logistical issues, a program to serve locally produced foods to passengers is not in place. Instead, food service is catered. However, BaySail encourages caterers to use environmentally friendly disposable plates and utensils and initiated a switch from boxed meals to a greener bag presentation. A diesel marine stove is used to cook onboard, when needed. The company adheres to a policy prohibiting the purchase of bottled water. Instead, a cooler and paper cups are used to quench passengers' thirst.
As required of all Great Lakes ships, a holding tank is employed for human waste, which is pumped out to a local land sewer system for disposal. Other types of waste are sorted and properly disposed, with recyclables taken to a recycling center. Waste oil is also recycled.
Voyagers bring their own bedding for overnights on the Appledore ships, eliminating the need for BaySail to launder linens. Thus, passengers are personally responsible for pursuing nontoxic laundering methods.
BaySail and other tall ship operators have a common conundrum. Eco-friendly marine maintenance products have been slow in hitting the market. Bottom paints traditionally contained high concentrations of heavy metals, which are harmful to the ecosystem, but BaySail uses a newer, eco-friendly bottom paint. As of publication, eco-friendly oils and lubricants necessary for onboard maintenance remain difficult to obtain.
BaySail, the Inland Seas Association, Michigan State University's Sea Grant Extension Program, and Grand Valley State University Annis Water Resource Institute partnered in a federally funded program in 2011 and 2012 called Making the Great Lakes Great. The educational program involved public workshops, dockside tours, and cruises on Lakes Michigan, Huron, and Erie.
The Appledore IV and V are good choices to enjoy experiencing Great Lakes ports and educational sails.
Set Sail on Lake Michigan
Michigan Maritime Museum
260 Dyckman Avenue
South Haven, Michigan 49090
(269) 637-8078
www.michiganmaritimemuseum.org
Vessel: Friends Good Will
The Michigan Maritime Museum in South Haven operates the sloop Friends Good Will. The ship is a replica of a merchant vessel built in 1810. Involved in the War of 1812, the original ship has a storied history. Sailing Lake Michigan, the museum's Friends Good Will is a 101-square-foot topsail vessel with a passenger capacity of 28. It's a member of Tall Ships America, a nonprofit organization dedicated to preserving the tall ship culture. The ship is the only tall ship on the Great Lakes featuring an interactive, state-of-the-art classroom for year-round instruction.
Friends Good Will is fully U.S. Coast Guard approved for passengers. Operators offer three daily passenger sails during peak season. It also provides educational sails and charters. Among its most unique offerings is the 90-minute Pirate Chaser Sail. The ship's six-pound pivot canon adds authenticity to the adventure. Geared for youngsters and families, passengers role-play, capturing scoundrels and sharing in their loot.
Friends Good Will uses a 170-horsepower diesel engine in leaving and entering the docks. More than two-thirds of every sail is wind powered. A battery system provides any needed electricity. Onboard food service is limited, but the ship features a traditional wood cook stove with propane backup.
The Michigan Maritime Museum also offers a six-mile cruise along the Black River in the electric launch Lindy Lou. The vessel is a replica of launches used in West Michigan between the 1890s and 1930s to transport tourists to resorts. The Lindy Lou provides all the advantages of electric power advocated by environmentalists.
The Friends Good Will and the Lindy Lou are nice choices for young families and for those who would enjoy learning more about Great Lakes history and culture at the maritime museum.
Traverse Tall Ships Co.
13240 S. West Bay Shore Drive
Traverse City, Michigan 49684
(231) 941-2000
www.tallshipsailing.com
Vessel: Manitou
In 2012, the Traverse Tall Ship Company marked its twenty-fifth season of cruising the beautiful Grand Traverse Bay. The company operates the 59-passenger Manitou, a replica of a 1800s "coasting" cargo schooner. Built in 1983, the 114-foot ship sails out of Traverse City between Memorial Day and early October. As many as 10,000 passengers enjoy sails onboard the Manitou each year. The ship meets or exceeds all U.S. Coast Guard regulations. Adventuring opportunities abound with three daily sails, specialty cruises, multiday sails, and the Manitou's onboard bed and breakfast. Autumn multiday sails showcase the fall color palette and explore Grand Traverse Bay's islands; Beaver Island; also, Cathead Bay along the Leelanau Peninsula; and Old Mission Harbor.
The Manitou's auxiliary engine is a 150-horsepower diesel model. About one gallon of fuel is consumed on each regular voyage as the vessel's engine pulls the ship out to open water and returns it to its dock. Over the course of a season, only 300 gallons of diesel fuel is typically consumed.
A traditional marine wood cook stove is the galley centerpiece. Every effort is made to incorporate local foods into the ship's meal service. Cooks garner ingredients from the local farmers market to keep the menu fresh. Regular afternoon sails feature locally made Moomers Ice Cream, named the number one ice cream in the nation by ABC's Good Morning America. Wine- and microbrew-tasting sails also feature local products. Food is served on biodegradable disposable plates, while recyclable plastic cups are used to serve beverages. All recyclable bottles, cans, cups, and other items are sent to American Waste & Recycling, northern Michigan's only locally owned and operated garbage collection and recycling center. Guest bedding is laundered by a linen service using unknown products. As with the other tall ship companies, finding eco-friendly ship maintenance and cleaning products is a challenge, but every attempt is made to avoid runoff into the eco-system.
The Manitou is a good choice for specialty cruises, multiday sails, and as a day trip incorporated into a Traverse City area vacation.
Superior Voyages
Superior Odyssey
P.O. Box 672
Marquette, Michigan 49855
Docked at Marquette's Lower Harbor
(906) 361-3668
www.superiorodyssey.com
Vessel: Odyssey II
Superior Odyssey is a family operation that launched in 2009. The 58-foot schooner Odyssey II is owned by Niko and Jill Economides. The vessel sails from Marquette to Lake Superior destinations between mid-May and mid-October. Unlike tall ships operated by other Michigan companies, the Odyssey II is a National Registered Historic Coaster Schooner built in 1933. She sailed both the Atlantic and Pacific before coming to the Great Lakes. The Odyssey II features a wooden hull. She is gaff-rigged with top sails and is an example of the workhorse ship of the golden age of commercial sailing. The ship is licensed by the U.S. Coast Guard.
The Odyssey II carries up to six passengers for a more interactive sailing experience. The company offers regular two-hour sails. Also available are four-hour sails to Presque Isle, White Rocks, and Middle Isle Bay. Eight-hour voyages to Presque Isle offer opportunities to explore remote Lake Superior islands. Overnight voyages to Huron Islands or Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore at Munising provide a lengthier taste of the seafaring experience. Fewer recreational boats populate Lake Superior than Lakes Huron and Michigan, making the Odyssey II voyages a quiet, intimate encounter with nature.
The Odyssey II passengers take personal responsibility for making their voyage sustainable. Food service is typically unavailable onboard; however, the ship has a traditional wood-burning cook stove for use as needed. The ship owners also operate an orchard and maple syrup operation and feature their harvest when possible. When food is provided, an effort is made to work with the Marquette food co-op to incorporate local products. Most passengers bring food onboard and take their trash with them. Any trash left onboard is recycled. Overnight passengers bring their own bedding.
The Odyssey II's auxiliary engine is a 65-horsepower diesel model. Typically, the engine is engaged only when moving through the inner harbor. When possible, the captain sails up to the dock. The smallest of the Great Lakes tall ship fleet, over the course of a season the Odyssey II consumes only 10 gallons of diesel fuel.
Awareness of the negative environmental impact of many ship maintenance products prompts the company's limited use of harmful products, especially bottom paints.
The Odyssey II is a good choice for those wishing to exercise control over their eco-footprint, for sailing to remote destinations, and for an affordable lakes adventure.
Extreme Sailing
ICE BOATING
A simple sail, sled, and wings create one of Michigan's most exciting sustainable winter sports, ice sailing. Frigid temperatures and speeds up to 100 miles per hour form a cloud of danger, making the lake sport ideal for extreme adventurers. Ice sailing, also known as ice boating and ice yachting, is an activity dating back to northern Europe's Viking days. It came to Michigan in the mid-1930s. Today, the state is one of the most popular ice-sailing destinations in the nation.
Ice boats are typically designed to carry a single individual across frozen lakes or fields. Sailing an ice craft requires skills similar to water sailing, but its capacity for high speeds demands greater control over the craft.
Although the sport is highly weather dependent, the ice-sailing season usually begins after the Christmas holiday, when lakes are frozen to a depth of at least five inches. Several cities serve as sweet spots for ice-boat enthusiasts and competition hosts. St. Ignace is home to the World Ice and Snow Championships, but racing takes place across the state. Clubs exist in Kalamazoo, Muskegon, Bay City, Traverse City, Elk Rapids, and southeast Michigan. The lovely sight of full sails gliding across a frozen lake draws spectators, as well as sailors, to this timeless pursuit.
KITEBOARDING
In 2008, the International Sailing Association approved kiteboarding as an international sailing class. The extreme surface water sport gained a following in the 1990s that increases each year. Participants can be seen sailing across waters and waves all along Michigan's coastline. The gear required for kiteboarding is simple. All that is needed is a board, harness, control bar, and a large kite. Kites come in various sizes and shapes rated for wind speeds and boarder skill level. Freestyle kiteboarders incorporate jumps and moves into their ride. The fun isn't limited to water. Equipment can be adapted for kiteboarding on grass, sand, and snow.
While the wind-powered sport is free from the use of fossil fuels, equipment and gear is another story. However, the availability of bamboo boards and petroleum-free board waxes is increasing.
Favorite Michigan kiteboarding destinations include Tawas Point, Lexington, Port Huron, Metro Beach, Muskegon, St. Joseph, Saugatuck, and Grand Haven.
Eco Checklist for Extreme and Group Sailing
Is your personal equipment and gear eco-friendly?
What is a ship's auxiliary power source? How often is the engine engaged?
Does food service include locally produced items?
What is the onboard cooking power source?
Are disposable or biodegradable plates, utensils, and packaging used in food service?
How is waste handled?
What general recycling practices are employed?
If cabin bedding is provided, is it laundered with bio-friendly products?
What eco-friendly products are used in ship maintenance?
(Continues...)
Excerpted from The Michigan Eco-Traveler by Sally Barber. Copyright © 2014 Sally Barber. Excerpted by permission of The University of Michigan Press.
All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher.
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