The Little Book of Donegal

by Cathal Coyle, Adam Kee

Overview

The Little Book of Donegal is a compendium of fascinating, obscure, strange and entertaining facts about County Donegal. Here you will find out about Donegal's folklore and customs, its proud sporting heritage, its castles, forts and stone circles, its famous (and occasionally infamous) men and women. Through quaint villages and historic towns and along the 'Wild Atlantic Way', this book takes the reader on a journey through County Donegal and its vibrant past. A reliable reference book and a quirky guide, this can be dipped into time and time again to reveal something new about the people, the heritage and the secrets of this ancient county.

Product Details

ISBN-13:	9780750969215
Publisher:	The History Press
Publication date:	07/04/2016
Series:	Little Book Of
Sold by:	Barnes & Noble
Format:	eBook
Pages:	240
File size:	3 MB

About the Author

ADAM KEE is an illustrator from Cookstown, County Tyrone, who is now based in the West Midlands. Working traditionally with pen and ink, he has been privately commissioned worldwide.

Read an Excerpt

The Little Book of Donegal

---

By Cathal Coyle

The History Press

Copyright © 2016 Cathal Coyle
All rights reserved.
ISBN: 978-0-7509-6921-5

---

CHAPTER 1

DONEGAL'S HISTORY

Donegal is the most northerly county in Ireland. It is situated in the north-west corner of the island and is surrounded by the Atlantic Ocean to the west; Counties Derry, Fermanagh and Tyrone to the east and County Leitrim to the south. Donegal is the largest county in Ulster in terms of its area (1,869 miles2), and the fourth largest in Ireland – after Cork, Galway and Mayo.

DÚN NA NGALL AND TÍR CHONAILL

Donegal has two names in Irish. The most popular used term nowadays is Dún na nGall, meaning 'the fort of the foreigners' or 'the fort of the strangers'. This is the name given to Donegal Town, from which the county gets its name.

It is thought that this name possibly derived from the Vikings, who were active around Donegal Bay in the ninth century AD. With the extension of English influence in Elizabethan times, the county was 'shired' (designated a county) in 1585, and given the name Donegal.

Another Irish name associated with Donegal is Tír Chonaill, meaning Conall's land or territory. This name historically only referred to the west of the county, excluding Inishowen and other areas. This was derived from Conall, claimed by some historians to be the son of fifth-century monarch Niall Noigiallach, or Niall of the Nine Hostages.

His other son, Eoghan, gave his name to the Inishowen peninsula. Eoghan took what is now Tyrone (Tír Eoghain, 'Eoghan's land') and the Inishowen peninsula, now in Donegal. Amongst the descendants of Conall – whose full name was Conall Gulban – were forty-one saints and ten High Kings, perhaps the most famous of them being St Colmcille.

TIMELINE OF DONEGAL HISTORY

Prehistory

Mesolithic Period [c. 7000 BC – c. 4000 BC

The last ice age, 10,000 years ago, carved out valleys such as Glencolmcille and the melting ice created lakes such as Lough Finn. There is evidence to suggest that people have inhabited this part of Ireland since Mesolithic times.

Archaeologists have established that Mesolithic peoples entered Donegal by following the river valleys of the Foyle and the Finn in order to settle. Evidence of human activity in Donegal is seen in the small number of Mesolithic hunter-gatherer sites identified in the north-east of Donegal and on the Inishowen Peninsula, where flint implements and shell middens (ancient deposits indicative of human domestic activity). One such midden was discovered just above Trawbreaga Bay at Drung (5 miles south of Malin Head).

Neolithic Period c. 4000 BC – c. 2500 BC

This period in Donegal's history is characterised by a number of significant cultural changes, particularly the transition to a much more settled agricultural lifestyle with the arrival of the first farmers around 4000 BC.

Monuments from this period are also numerous, particularly burial architecture in the form of megalithic ('large stone') tombs – almost 10 per cent of all known megalithic tombs in Ireland are found in Donegal, indicating the importance of the area at this time. Neolithic sites are widespread throughout the coastal and more fertile parts of the county, with fine examples of portal tombs at Kilclooney, near Ardara. This concentration suggests a relatively wealthy and sophisticated society.

Bronze Age c. 2500 BC – c. 700 BC

This is the first period in Irish history to be characterised by the arrival of metalworking. Evidence of Bronze Age habitation can be seen in the form of twenty-two wedge tombs, located primarily in north Donegal. Cist graves (stone-lined burial pits) are also common, and these are prevalent in southern Inishowen.

Standing stones follow a similar pattern, and Donegal is on the western boundary of one of the two main concentrations of Irish stone circles. A fine example can be viewed at Beltany near Raphoe, one of the largest of its type in Ireland.

Several Bronze Age artefacts have been found in Donegal, including a gold lunula (crescent moon-shaped jewellery) from Nairn in the south-west, and another from Gartan in the north-west of the county. Another important discovery was made by a farmer at Carrickballydooey near Manorcunningham in 1976, when the bones of a skeleton as well as a flint knife and other objects were traced to the early Bronze Age.

Iron Age c. 700 BC – c. AD 500

As the name suggests, this era was characterised by iron tools and weapons, although bronze continued to be used to make items of jewellery. The archaeological evidence shifts from tombs to buildings for the living such as the Grianán of Aileach hill fort, which was an important seat of power in north-west Ireland. Other Iron Age sites in Donegal include hilltop enclosures such as Croaghan Hill near Lifford, and Cashelnavean at the north-east end of the Barnesmore Gap.

Early Medieval Times

The Story of Cenél Conaill and Cenél nÉogain

By AD 550, there were approximately twelve distinct political units in Donegal. At that stage, the dominant kingdom was that of Cenél Conaill, 'the kindred of Conall'. It was claimed that Conall was a son of Niall of the Nine Hostages; however, this has been disputed by some historians.

Nevertheless, most of the people of sixth-century Donegal belonged to the Ulaid, from which the name 'Ulster' is derived. Cenél Conaill emerged in the early to mid-sixth century in the historic area of Mag nItha in the lower valley of the River Finn. The Iron Age settlement of Croaghan Hill was probably their principal ritual location and the site of royal inauguration.

In the fifth and sixth centuries, the two main Donegal dynasties were the Cenél nÉogain, chiefly of Inishowen, and the Cenél Conaill, occupying the remaining part of Donegal. The Battle of Clóiteach (Clady) in 789 AD changed the dynamic of rule in Donegal, with the Cenél Conaill being defeated by their main rivals Cenél nÉogain, these dynasties having fought each other for dominance for much of the eighth century. This resulted in them being driven south of the Barnesmore Gap.

By 800 AD, Cenél nÉogain was the most powerful of the Donegal dynasties, but as time progressed, the seat of power of Cenél nÉogain moved to Tulach Óg (Tullaghoge) in Tír Eoghain (Tyrone), with the O'Neills as their descendants. The chief descendants of Cenél Conaill were the O'Donnell clan.

St Colmcille's Influence in Donegal

St Patrick is credited with introducing Christianity to Ireland in the fifth century; however, St Colmcille (born in Gartan) was a key figure in establishing numerous monastic settlements in both Ireland and Scotland.

A variety of cross slabs, high crosses and holy wells represented the new religion. One such example is St Mura's Cross at the influential monastic site at Fahan. This was established by Colmcille during the late sixth century with his disciple St Mura as the first abbot. There is also a holy well at Fahan and a form of pilgrimage known as a turas (literally, a journey) is made there annually on 21 March.

c. AD 800 – c. AD 1000: Viking Influences

The Vikings appear to have given their name to Donegal – 'fort of the foreigners' – and they plundered Inis Muiredaig in Donegal Bay in 807. There were several other Viking incursions during the ninth and tenth centuries and these may have led to their attempt to establish settlements along the coast at inland loughs, such as Cenn Magair on Mulroy Bay along the shore of Lough Foyle.

Evidence of the Viking presence in the county has strengthened in modern times, with discoveries of coins and jewellery mainly around Inishowen, Lough Foyle, Raphoe and west Donegal.

Medieval and Early Modern Times

While the arrival of the Anglo-Normans to Ireland in 1169 didn't have an immediate impact in Donegal, by the beginning of the following century they were beginning to make their presence felt, with the construction of a castle at Cael Uisce on the River Erne.

The Northburgh Castle (later known as Greencastle because of the greenish stone from which it was built) was established in 1305 by Richard de Burgo, known as the 'Red Earl of Ulster'. It was built on the eastern tip of Inishowen to provide a base for the Anglo-Normans in the region and control the strategic entrance to Lough Foyle.

The O'Donnell Dynasty

By the middle of the thirteenth century, the O'Donnells had become the dominant sept in Donegal – after Gofraid Ó Domnaill regained the kingship from Niall Ó Canannáin. The O'Donnells would be the chiefs of Tír Chonaill for the following four centuries; they ruled the north-west area of Donegal, and by the late fifteenth and early sixteenth centuries also ruled Fermanagh and parts of North Connacht.

Unlike England and other European countries where the concept of succession was the norm, according to Brehon Law in Ireland, anybody within the deirbhfinne (succeeding three generations) was entitled to succeed as leader.

Aodh Ruadh Ó Domhnaill

The elder Hugh O'Donnell (known as Aodh Ruadh), chief of the O'Donnell clan until his death in 1505, built Donegal Castle in 1474. During this year, he and his wife Lady Nuala also built a Franciscan monastery further down the river. His son, Hugh Dubh O'Donnell, ruled Tír Chonaill from 1505 to his own death in 1537, but jointly ruled the region with his father from 1497 onwards. Hugh Dubh's son Manus O'Donnell, was lord of Tír Chonaill from 1537 until his death in 1563.

1559: The Acts of Supremacy and Uniformity

In 1559, the Irish Parliament passed the Act of Supremacy and the Act of Uniformity, the former prescribing to all public officers the Oath of Supremacy, the latter prohibiting the Catholic Mass and commanding the public use of the Book of Common Prayer.

Donegal Becomes a County

By the late sixteenth century, three Irish provinces, namely Connacht (West), Munster (South) and Leinster (East), were largely under English control. Ulster remained the most Gaelic of the provinces, but Donegal became 'shired' by the English in 1585 – making it a county. This signalled a major change in relationships.

The Nine Years' War

While the O'Donnells had found it expedient to be friendly with the English, they also acknowledged that change might adversely affect their interests. For a time, Hugh O'Donnell was kept captive in Dublin Castle by Sir John Perrot, the English Lord Deputy of Ireland, who secured him as a hostage in an attempt to prevent an alliance between the O'Donnell and O'Neill clans. However he successfully escaped and gained the leadership of the O'Donnell clan, becoming known as 'The O'Donnell'. He formed an alliance with other Ulster chieftains, most notably Hugh O'Neill, Earl of Tyrone.

Declaring open rebellion against the English in 1594, O'Donnell's forces captured an area of Connacht from Sligo to Leitrim. The following year, Hugh O'Neill abandoned negotiation with the English, and in 1596 the combined forces of O'Donnell and O'Neill defeated an English army under Sir Henry Bagenal at the Battle of Clontibret.

However, even after another success at the Battle of the Yellow Ford on the River Blackwater in August 1598, they recognised that their only chance of winning the war outright was with the aid of a Spanish invasion. The Spanish finally landed at Kinsale – at the opposite end of Ireland from the Ulster rebels – in September 1601.

During the Battle of Kinsale in December 1601, the combined forces of the Spanish General Juan Del Aquila, O'Neill and O'Donnell were defeated by Sir Charles Blount, Lord Mountjoy.

The Treaty of Mellifont

The Treaty of Mellifont in March 1603 ended the Nine Years' War and ensured that for the first time all of Ireland – including Donegal – was under control of the English Crown. However, it restored the Earls of Ulster (including Hugh) to substantial land holdings.

1607: The Flight of the Earls

The earls found it difficult to adapt to the changes in Ulster, especially the growing numbers of English settlers. Facing renewed restrictions from the English regime, they sought help from Spain. Fearful of being charged with treason by King James I, and realising their lives were in danger, three Irish princes – including Rory O'Donnell, Earl of Tyrconnell – chose to flee. This was a watershed moment in Donegal history, marking the end of an era for the O'Donnell dynasty.

This episode is referred to as 'The Flight of the Earls' and took place on Friday 14 September 1607. The departure point was Rathmullan on the Fanad Peninsula; was regarded as a safe place, given that the chieftain McSweeney was in control of the area. After twenty-one days at sea, the earls landed at Quilleboeuf in France. From there they travelled to Louvain before crossing the Alps and finally arriving in Rome on 29 April 1608.

1610: The Plantation Scheme in County Donegal Begins

The earls' land was subsequently declared forfeit to the Crown and was given to English and Scottish planters, who each undertook to bring Scottish or English tenants and artisans to take over the land.

Many of the tenant farmers who came were Presbyterian, and the majority of these were from the Ayrshire and Galloway regions of southern Scotland. Landlords and officials had to be members of the Church of Ireland. Once in Donegal, they settled mainly in the east of the county, in the fertile Laggan district situated between Lough Swilly and Lough Foyle.

Donegal was divided into seven 'precincts' and the lands were divided as follows:

Precinct Recipient

Boylagh assigned to Scottish undertakers

Doe assigned to servitors and native Irish

Fanad assigned to servitors and native Irish

Inishowen designated an exceptional area. Except for Church land, this precinct was granted to Sir Arthur Chichester, the Lord Deputy, in February 1610

Lifford assigned to English undertakers

Portlough assigned to Scottish undertakers

Tirhugh designated an exceptional area

25 per cent (4,000 acres) of Tirhugh was assigned to Trinity College, Dublin. The remaining 75 per cent was divided between the Church of Ireland, servitors and native Irish, the Royal School in the County (200 acres) and Ballyshannon Fort

Five boroughs were created in County Donegal. Ballyshannon, Donegal Town and Lifford were granted their charters (and the right to representation in the Irish Parliament) in 1613. Killybegs received its charter in 1616, while St Johnston was granted its charter in 1619.

The plantation settlement in east Donegal was the most settled area within the entire six official counties of the Ulster plantation. By 1710, it contained the densest area of Protestant settlement in Ulster outside of Down and Antrim.

Annals of the Four Masters (Annála Ríoghachta Éireann)

These scholars were Mícheál Ó Cléirigh (Michael O'Clery), Peregrine Ó Duignan, Peregrine Ó Cléirigh and Fearbasa Ó Mulcrony. Their aim was to chronicle the history of Donegal and Ireland, and they commenced on 22 January 1632. Occasionally, these scholars were assisted for several months at a time by others, such as Maurice O'Mulconry and Conary Ó Cléirigh.

The records, completed on 10 August 1636, are in Irish script and cover 4,000 years of Irish history. Several manuscript copies are held at Trinity College Dublin, the Royal Irish Academy, University College Dublin and the National Library of Ireland.

The Battle of Glenmaquin

The Irish rose in rebellion in 1641 under Sir Phelim O'Neill as a long-term result of the 'Plantation' policy. Key strongholds were captured, and Protestant settlers were evicted from their lands.

The following year, Sir Phelim, reinforced by the MacDonnells of Antrim, tried once more to invade the Laggan area. He gathered a huge army and marched towards Raphoe. The two armies met at Glenmaquin in east Donegal on 16 June 1642, with the Laggan army, largely comprising soldiers from the Ulster-Scots community, ending up victorious.

Francis Makemie

Born in Ramelton in 1658, Francis Makemie was part of the Ulster Scots community. He was ordained as a clergyman and was sent as a missionary to America, arriving in 1683 in Maryland. He was regarded as 'The Father of Presbyterianism in America' and a significant historical link between Donegal and North America.

Eighteenth Century

The eighteenth century is regarded as the era of the Anglo-Irish Ascendancy; despite this, the Penal Laws against Catholics and Presbyterians remained on the Statute Books until the latter part of the century.

The Penal Laws

These were a series of laws that were used against Roman Catholics and Presbyterians. The first of these laws had been introduced by the Irish Parliament in 1695; however, by 1727, many harsher regulations had been imposed, such as denying Catholics the right to vote and exclusion from most public offices.

(Continues...)

---

Excerpted from The Little Book of Donegal by Cathal Coyle. Copyright © 2016 Cathal Coyle. Excerpted by permission of The History Press.
All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher.
Excerpts are provided by Dial-A-Book Inc. solely for the personal use of visitors to this web site.

---

Table of Contents

Contents

Title,
Acknowledgements,
Introduction,
1 Donegal's History,
2 The Wild Atlantic Way: Donegal's Coastline and Islands,
3 Forts, Castles and Stone Circles: Donegal's Heritage Landmarks,
4 Donegal Places and Languages,
5 Donegal Festivals,
6 Donegal Folklore and Customs,
7 Donegal People,
8 Sporting Donegal,
9 Cultural Donegal,
10 Donegal Miscellany,
Bibliography,
Copyright,