Table of Contents
Acknowledgments xv
Introduction 1
I Pre-Hispanic, Conquest, and Early Colonial Lima 7
Pre-Hispanic Lima César Pacheco Vélez 9
The Foundation of Lima Garcilaso de la Vega el Inca 11
The Form and Greatness of Lima Bernabé Cobo 16
Lima's Convents José de la Riva-Agüero 21
The Spiritual Diary of an Afro-Peruvian Mystic Ursula de Jesús 25
Auto-da-Fé and Procession Josephe Francisco Mugaburu 29
Margarita's Wedding Dress Ricardo Palma 32
II Bourbon Lima 37
Of the Inhabitants of Lima Jorge Juan Antonio de Ulloa 39
The 1746 Earthquake, Anonymous 45
A Failed Indian Uprising, Anonymous 49
Lima and Cuzco, Concolorcorvo 52
Slave Religion and Culture, Hesperióphylo 56
Faces of All Colors Hipólito Ruiz 61
Impressions of Lima Alexander von Humboldt 64
III From Independence to the War of the Pacific (1821-1883) 67
Lima in 1821 Basil Hall 69
The Passion for Bullfighting William S. W. Ruschenberger 73
Pancho Fierro Natalia Majluf 78
A Slave Plantation Flora Tristán 81
The Saddest City Herman Melville 84
Lima's Carnival and Its Glories Manuel Atanasio Fuentes 87
The Amancaes Parade Ismael Portal 91
Chinese Are Not Welcome Mariano Castro Zaldivar 94
The National Library and the Chilean Occupation E. W. Middendorf 96
IV Modernizing Lima (1895-1940) 101
The Transformation of Lima after 1895 José Gálvez 103
A Middle-Class House in 1900 Luis Alberto Sánchez 108
The Growing Popular Taste for Soccer El Comercio 113
The Lord of the Miracles Procession José Carlos Mariátegui 115
Dance in the Cemetery El Tiempo 122
On the Streetcar Martín Adán 126
Leguía's Lima Guillermo Rodríguez Mariátegui 128
The Paperboy Felipe Pinglo Alva 133
Daily Life of a Domestic Servant Laura Miller 136
V Interlude: Nostalgia and Its Discontents 143
The True Lima Chabuca Granda 147
The Mislaid Nostalgia Sebastián Salazar Bondy 149
One of the Ugliest Cities in the World? Alberto Flores Galindo 153
Understanding Huachafería Mario Vargas Llosa 156
VI The Many Limas (1940-) 161
Malambo, a Black Neighborhood Hugo Marquina Ríos 165
The Original Mansion Alfredo Bryce Echenique 170
Diego Ferré and Miraflores Mario Vargas Llosa 176
The Banquet Julio Ramón Ribeyro 180
A Serrano Family in Lima Richard W. Patch 185
The Great March of Villa El Salvador José María Salcedo 193
Being Young and Radical (Late 1960s and 1970s) Maruja Martinez 198
The Day Lima Erupted Enrique Zileri 203
A City of Outsiders José Matos Mar 207
The Israelites of the New Universal Covenant Peter Masson 213
María Elena Moyano Robin Kirk 216
The Tarata Street Bombing: July 16, 1992, Peruvian Truth and Reconciliation Commission 219
Shining Path: A Prisoner's Testimony, Peruvian Truth and Reconciliation Commission 223
Twenty-First-Century Feudalism Witfredo Ardito Vega 229
Chicha and Huayno: Andean Music and Culture in Lima Gisela Cánepa 232
That Sickly Applause "El cholo Juan" 236
Life among the Pirates Daniel Alarcón 238
How Food Became Religion in Peru's Capital City Marco Avilés 247
Green Vultures Charles P. Walker 254
Suggestions for Further Reading and Viewing 257
Acknowledgment of Copyrights and Sources 263
Index 269
