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Overview
Prepare to shop for gemstones and jewellery on your next holiday Going on holiday and fancy buying a piece of jewellery? Are you planning on making a romantic gesture, but your lack of knowledge makes you uneasy about parting with your hard-earned cash?
What should you look out for? How do you know it's real? How do you bring it home safely?
This handy little guide answers these questions and many more. It's an easy read without any gem jargon, and is packed with useful tips and priceless information that could save you a fortune!
Whether you are shopping for an engagement ring or special anniversary gift, or perhaps for a souvenir of your trip, Buying Gemstones and Jewellery Worldwide will guide you through the experience. An integral part of the 'Gemstone Detective' series, this unique book provides the essential knowledge you need to buy with confidence.
Written by Kim Rix, a gemmologist (GIA) and professional photographer who has travelled to over fifty countries in her lifetime.
Product Details
| ISBN-13: | 9781912635627 |
|---|---|
| Publisher: | Filament Publishing |
| Publication date: | 01/22/2019 |
| Sold by: | Barnes & Noble |
| Format: | eBook |
| Pages: | 160 |
| File size: | 20 MB |
| Note: | This product may take a few minutes to download. |
About the Author
Read an Excerpt
CHAPTER 1
Deciding what you want
There are a few questions you need to ask yourself before purchasing:
Cut stone or rough?
In many countries you will be able to have a rough stone beautifully cut and set within hours. Seeing your gemstone transformed from its rough state to a finished piece of jewellery can give it even more sentimental value. But note that not all countries will let you export rough!
What's the stone for?
For what purpose are you buying a gemstone? Is it for a ring, a brooch, a bracelet, a necklace? How regularly do you intend to wear it? This is where the durability of a stone is important, as some stones are too fragile to be worn on the fingers or as a pendant that could get knocked. The Mohs scale of hardness is system that grades minerals from softest to hardest on a scale of 1-10. Talc is the softest material at 1, whereas diamond is the hardest at 10. A mineral can only be scratched by a mineral equal or harder than it on the Mohs scale. See page 135 for more information on durability. Depending on the look you are after, you will also need to consider the size and cut of the stone. Another approach is simply to buy a gem that speaks to you and have the setting made to suit that gem.
How much do I want to spend?
This is important. You need to decide on a budget before you approach anywhere that sells gemstones. Arm yourself with a ceiling figure before you start or, in the heat of the moment, you may end up spending more than you want or can afford.
How do I want to pay?
How you want to pay will affect where you buy. Most dealers will be pleased to accept cash. Indeed, you may well get a better deal by paying cash, as card-processing fees are usually added to the overall price of the gem. In some countries, not all dealers will accept credit cards, especially if you buy from the market or direct from the miner. On the other hand, paying by credit card affords you a certain level of protection under section 75 of the UK Consumer Credit Act, on purchases between £100 and £30,000.
Where do I want to do my gemstone shopping?
Knowing your budget and how you want to pay should determine where you should buy: in a luxury hotel, at a large and established jewellery shop, at a jewellery show, in a museum, at a small gemstone merchant/trader, at the gemstone market ...
Knowing what you're looking at
Taste is a very personal thing. You may fall in love with a gem that is not particularly valuable, and that's just fine – enjoy it! What you want to avoid is paying more than the gem is worth, and that's when a little knowledge comes in very handy.
A good rule of thumb when buying a gem is to remember the Four Cs: colour, clarity, cut and carat weight. When it comes to buying most gemstones, however, you also need to factor in origin and treatment. Let's take these one by one.
Colour
Colour is the most important factor in the price of a gemstone. It's not as simple as a gemstone being 'blue' or 'red', though. A gemstone's colour actually incorporates three separate aspects: the saturation, the hue, and the tone.
Saturation
Saturation refers to the amount of colour in the stone. A stone's saturation is the most important factor in its valuation. Stones with low saturation may appear washed out, whereas stones with high saturation may appear too dark. The most valuable stones have medium saturation.
Hue
Hue is a more specific term for colour and refers to the particular shade of the stone's colour. Gemstones are described by their primary (dominant) and secondary hue. In a written description of any gemstone, the primary hue will have a capital letter and the secondary hue will have a lower case letter. For example, you might see a ruby described as 'Red' or 'Red-orange'. Some hues are considered more desirable than others, depending on the gemstone.
Tone
The tone refers to the depth of colour in a stone — how light or dark it appears. A stone that is too light won't show the colour to its best effect, whereas a stone that is too dark will lack brilliance. Make sure that you look at your stone in both artificial and natural light. Cup your hand over it. The stone should appear lively and brilliant, even in shade.
Clarity
It's common for many gemstones to have inclusions (flaws) when seen under a microscope, so if you are shown a stone that looks flawless under magnification, ask yourself, "Is it too good to be true?". However, the inclusions in a high-quality stone shouldn't be visible to the naked eye. The position of the inclusion also affects the price. A stone with inclusions in the centre will generally be cheaper than an equivalent stone with an inclusion nearer the edge, for obvious aesthetic reasons.
Cut
The quality and type of cut affects the value. When cutting a gemstone, the aim is to retain as much of the weight as possible while achieving the most beautiful effect. It's a fine balancing act! Watch out for areas that don't reflect light and so don't seem to sparkle. These are called windows and they detract from the brilliance and value of the stone. A gem with a large face and a shallow bottom will produce this effect.
To check for windowing, place the gem on a piece of paper with text on it and look directly down on it at an angle of 90o. If there is a lighter area in the middle through which you can read the text, the gem has a window. Some sellers will try to overcharge for windowed stones, relying on a tourist's lack of expertise.
I should say here that most stones will demonstrate windowing to some degree when viewed at an angle. What you need to watch out for is windowing that is obvious when viewed directly from above.
Carat
Carats are units of weight in gemstone terminology (1 carat = 200 mg = 0.2g). The higher the carat weight, the heavier and more expensive the gemstone. Price per carat increases at 2, 3 and 4 carats. A 4-carat stone will cost more per carat than a 2- carat stone because of the rarity of larger stones.
Origin
A stone's origin can affect its value as certain locations have become associated with the high quality of the gemstones mined there. Unfortunately, this means that stones are often labelled with a false origin to inflate the price. The only way to determine a stone's origin is to have it tested in a lab. Be aware that the test for origin cannot usually be performed on a stone that has already been set.
Treatment
Your primary aim should be to make sure the gemstone you are about to buy is genuine and not a piece of cheap fakery. Gemstone treatment techniques have become pretty sophisticated and this can work both to the buyer's advantage and against it ...
Remember: be on your guard if someone tries to sell you a good-looking, 'untreated' stone! If it looks too good to be true, it almost certainly is.
Before you buy any gemstone, you should always check its certificate or get it tested for authenticity. You'll find details of how to do this later in the chapter. Do note, though, that many labs will only test a cut and polished stone for authenticity. Buying a rough stone is more of a risk than buying a cut stone.
The best-known gemstones
Diamond, emerald, ruby and sapphire are known as 'The Big Four' gemstones because they are the most famous gemstones of all — and subsequently among the most expensive.
Diamond
Though it was the company De Beers who coined the advertising slogan 'A Diamond is Forever' in 1947, diamonds have been known for their exceptional hardness throughout history. Measuring 10 on the Mohs hardness scale, diamonds are the hardest natural substance on earth, making them not only 'a girl's best friend' but also an excellent choice for everyday jewellery like engagement rings.
A solid form of carbon, diamonds are best known in their colourless form, but can also occur in many other shades, including yellow, pink, green, blue and even black. Coloured diamonds are known as fancy diamonds.
Diamond is the birthstone for April and is traditionally associated with strength and clarity.
Emerald
Emerald is what we call the deep green variety of the gemstone beryl (light green is simply referred to as 'green beryl'). Emerald is often presented in a rectangular cut with angled corners — hence the name 'emerald cut'. This cut makes the most of the rich blue-green to pure green of the finest stones. The angled corners add stability and help to prevent damage to the gemstone — emerald is quite brittle, despite being reasonably hard.
Flawless emeralds are extremely rare and extraordinarily expensive. A good quality emerald will have inclusions, but these should only be visible under magnification. Inclusions visible to the naked eye will bring down the price. The inclusions in an emerald are moss-like and can be quite beautiful in their own way — the French term for them is 'jardin', which means 'garden.'
Emerald, a symbol of love and compassion, is the birthstone for May. It is also associated with growth and vigour, so would make a wonderful gift for a keen gardener — as long as the jewellery isn't worn while digging the flowerbeds!
Sapphire
Sapphire is a variety of a mineral called corundum. Sapphires occur in many different colours, but not in red: if the corundum is red, we call it a ruby instead. The two gemstones are distinguished by colour alone, as their structure is the same. Corundum is the second-hardest mineral after diamond and has a remarkable ability to withstand scratching. This makes sapphire a practical as well as an aesthetic choice in jeweller pieces for everyday use, especially rings and bracelets.
Though traditionally thought of as deep royal blue, sapphires come in every colour of the rainbow. Australia is famous for its parti-coloured stones, which contain two or more colours. Sapphires are valued in much the same way as diamonds, but with more emphasis on colour and carat size, and even the origin of the stone.
The birthstone for September, sapphire is associated with wisdom, royalty, good fortune and the heavens and symbolises fidelity when used in an engagement ring. Reiki healers believe that sapphire channels healing powers.
Ruby
Like sapphire, ruby is a variety of corundum. While 'pigeon blood' rubies from Burma are considered the finest in the world, rubies are mined in many other countries. The term pigeon blood refers to the intense red of the ruby, which is said to resemble the first few drops of blood from a freshly killed pigeon. Corundum is an extremely hard mineral, which makes ruby an excellent choice for setting within a frequently worn ring. Don't expect to buy a flawless natural ruby unless you have vast amounts of money to invest — almost all rubies contain inclusions (flaws).
Ruby is the birthstone for July and symbolises love, passion and power. The traditional gift for a 40th wedding anniversary is a ruby and a 40th jubilee is called the Ruby Jubilee. Rubies were once believed to soothe inflammation and older women would rub ground ruby into their skin in the hope that it would restore the bloom of youth. Some alternative therapists maintain that rubies stimulate energy, positivity and sensuality.
Other gemstones
Alexandrite
What makes alexandrite special is the way it appears to change colour. A high-quality alexandrite will seem to be grass green in natural light but rich red under artificial light. This is due to the way in which alexandrite absorbs and reflects various wavelengths of light in different lighting conditions.
The price of an alexandrite will be determined by the hue and the extent of the colour change. The most valuable stones have a very distinct colour change and display as close to true green and true red as possible. If you are torn between an emerald and a ruby, alexandrite may be the gemstone for you!
Amethyst
Amethyst is a purple variety of quartz. It was once considered a precious gem, but was downgraded to semi-precious status after large reserves of it were uncovered in Brazil.
Amethyst is the birthstone for February. In 2018, ultraviolet was named Colour of the Year by Pantone, the colour company. If 2018 was special for you, vivid purple amethyst could be your perfect keepsake.
Aquamarine
Aquamarine — or 'water from the sea' in Latin — is one of several pretty colour varieties of the mineral beryl. Aquamarine, as the name might suggest, is a light blue or bluish green. These variations in colour are caused by the presence of different types of chemical impurity within the makeup of the gemstone. You will probably be familiar with deep green beryl — as mentioned earlier, it's more commonly known as emerald.
As aquamarine is a reasonably durable gemstone, it works well in everyday jewellery. To accentuate the lovely colour of an aquamarine, buy one with a step cut.
Aquamarine is one of the birthstones for March and is credited with all sorts of powers, from calming the sea to soothing a toothache. An aquamarine might also be a good bet if you've forgotten your anniversary — it's said to bring happiness to marriages!
Chrysoprase
Chrysoprase is a variety of chalcedony found mostly in Australia, Africa and Brazil. A fairly durable stone, chrysoprase is suitable for use in most jewellery with the usual caveats if handled with care. The name chrysoprase means 'golden leek' in Greek — it has a fresh, green colour caused by deposits of nickel. Despite its name, yellow tones in chrysoprase are not as desirable as blue-green tones or the true apple-green of a high-quality stone.
Perhaps it is chrysoprase's bright cheerful hue that makes it a traditional cure for depression and anxiety!
Citrine
Citrine is a type of quartz, whose yellow tint is caused by the presence of iron. Occurring in hues ranging from orange and brown to a pale yellow, it's perfect for lovers of sunshine shades. Once thought to be rare, large reserves found in the 20th century me that citrine has come down hugely in price. This has made it a great choice for striking and bold pieces of jewellery, as it is possible to buy excellent quality stones in large sizes at very reasonable prices.
Citrine's bright yellow and orange radiance has traditionally been associated with healing of both body and mind, and is said to be particularly therapeutic for sufferers of depression.
Garnet
'Garnet' is an umbrella term for a group of closely- related varieties of mineral. It occurs in a range o colours, but most commonly in shades of red. A rare blue-to-pink colour change variety has, in recent years, been unearthed in Madagascar. Warm reddish hessonite is the most commonly occurring garnet, and the orange-coloured spessartite the most expensive.
Garnet is the birthstone for January and the gem for a 2nd wedding anniversary. It is thought to bring luck and keep its wearer safe. Garnet was perhaps not so lucky for those unfortunate to encounter it in battle, though — some armies used to fashion bullets from garnet, believing that its glowing red colour would make wounds deadlier! Some people maintain that square garnets help people succeed in business. A gem for the high-flyer in your life, perhaps?
Iolite
Iolite is commonly known as 'water sapphire' because its colour can be very similar to genuine sapphire.
Be aware that the two are very different gemstones! Derived from the Greek word 'ios', meaning 'violet', iolite occurs in shades of purple, blue and grey. Iolite is becoming popular as an affordable alternative to more expensive stones like sapphire and tanzanite. Though reasonably durable, it is still softer than tough sapphire and so should be treated with a little care. No treatment has yet been used successfully on iolite, so you can assume that any particularly fine example will be entirely natural.
Iolite is associated with mind, spirit and imagination. Those who practise alternative forms of therapy use it to ease insomnia and induce dreaming. Some believe that iolite can help those who are disorganised, distracted and lacking in motivation. Parents of difficult teenagers, take note!
Jade
Though we tend to think of jade as a green gemstone, it occurs in many other colours too. The name jade actually refers to two different gemstones — jadeite and nephrite — which until the 19th century were thought to be the same stone. The type prized-by ancient Chinese artisans was jadeite because it was denser, more lustrous and easier to carve. Particularly high-quality jadeite was reserved for the Emperor alone and called Imperial Jade. Nephrite jade is more common than jadite and considered less valuable. Slightly softer on the Mohs scale than jadeite, nephrite also has a lower translucency and lustre.
Jade is said to be good for disorders of the kidneys and is used by some to promote mental clarity.
Kunzite
Kunzite was only discovered in 1902 by George Frederick Kunz – you may have heard about his connection with Tiffany's. Like tanzanite, kunzite is pleochroic, meaning that its colour appears to change when viewed from different angles. Kunzite comes in pretty shades of pink and violet and, along with many pink stones, is associated with femininity and love.
(Continues…)
Excerpted from "Buying Gemstones and Jewellery in Worldwide"
by .
Copyright © 2019 Kim Rix.
Excerpted by permission of Filament Publishing.
All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher.
Excerpts are provided by Dial-A-Book Inc. solely for the personal use of visitors to this web site.
Table of Contents
Introduction,
Why you need this book,
What makes me an expert?,
Gemstones and Jewellery – the basics,
Deciding what you want,
Knowing what you're looking at,
The best-known gemstones,
Other gemstones,
Organic gemstones,
Synthetic gemstones,
Phenomenal gemstones,
Your gemstone's setting,
Buying your Gemstone,
Choosing where to buy,
Prices – what to expect,
Negotiating – when and how to do it,
Gemstones as investments,
The ethics of buying gemstones,
Top 10 questions to ask before you buy,
Essential tips for buying gemstones and jewellery around the world,
Identifying Scams and Fakes,
Categories of gemstones,
Common scams,
Fake gems,
Misleading names and their true meaning,
Gemstone Paperwork,
Certificates of authenticity and grading reports,
World's most widely-recognised gem labs,
Holiday Experiences,
Getting a piercing on holiday,
Proposing on holiday,
World famous jewellery collections,
Bringing your gemstone back home,
Tax and duty on gemstones,
Tax refunds,
Unusual souvenirs and the law,
Caring for your Gemstones and Jewellery,
How durable is your gemstone?,
Wearing your gemstones and jewellery,
Top 10 Jewellery Care Tips,
Appendices,
Glossary,
Birthstones and Anniversary stones,
The Navaratna,
Holiday reading,
Other resources,
Acknowledgements,
About the author,
Connect with Kim,