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The Dim Sum Field Guide: A Taxonomy of Dumplings, Buns, Meats, Sweets, and Other Specialties of the Chinese Teahouse
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The Dim Sum Field Guide: A Taxonomy of Dumplings, Buns, Meats, Sweets, and Other Specialties of the Chinese Teahouse
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Overview
Author and illustrator Carolyn Phillips demystifies the rich, nuanced culinary institution of teahouse snacks in The Dim Sum Field Guide, a pocket-size, definitive resource featuring 80 hand-drawn illustrations. With entries for all the dim sum classics--including siu mai, xiaolongbao, char siu, roast duck, and even sweets like milk tarts and black sesame rolls--this handy reference is perfect for bringing on-the-go to your next dim sum outing. Armchair travelers and Asian food enthusiasts alike will be delighted by this detailed yet accessible look at the distinctly Chinese art of eating well.
— NPR's Best Books of 2016
Product Details
ISBN-13: | 9781607749578 |
---|---|
Publisher: | Clarkson Potter/Ten Speed |
Publication date: | 08/30/2016 |
Sold by: | Random House |
Format: | eBook |
Pages: | 176 |
File size: | 94 MB |
Note: | This product may take a few minutes to download. |
About the Author
Read an Excerpt
INTRODUCTION
Welcome to the delicious world of dim sum. This is an exquisitely leisurely way to brunch, a meal that, when done right, can easily stretch out for a couple of hours into the afternoon. Each one- or two-bite morsel of dim sum is essentially a small packet of unique flavors—just enough to grab your attention and whet the appetite—but small enough that you can move on to the next tantalizing dish before your palate becomes bored.
This book explores the Cantonese form of dim sum, which was born in the teahouses of Southern China—specifically, the capital city of Guangzhou that straddles the great Pearl River—about two centuries ago. Of course, the history of dim sum stretches back much farther than that ( jiaozi-like dumplings, for example, were discovered in a Tang dynasty tomb dating from thirteen hundred years ago), and many other parts of the country boast of wonderful arrays of teatime snacks and petite sweets. However, I would have to agree with those who claim that the culinary art form known as dim sum reached its absolute pinnacle in Guangzhou.
Perhaps the secret lies in the land. Located on the lush, fertile plains of southern Guangdong, this area has an almost endless selection of vegetables, starches, fruits, animals, crustaceans, and seafood. Or maybe it’s the people, for Guangdong has been the destination for immigrants from all over the country who longed for more peaceful lives and who made Guangzhou synonymous with gracious living. Or maybe it’s the tropical weather, the type of climate that encourages a person to laze in the shade with a hot pot of tea and some savory snacks, a trickle of water and the rattle of bamboo leaves in the warm wind coming together to form a natural lullaby. Or maybe it is because Guangzhou was a nexus between East and West, as well as North and South, a place where foreign culinary inspiration gave birth to marvelous ideas in the kitchen, while imperial and Muslim tastes added their own rich notes to this culinary symphony. Or maybe it is because all of these great food traditions eventually made their way down the Pearl River to Hong Kong, where ancient history crashed into the modern world, and many dim sum dishes evolved into their delicious, present-day incarnations.
Whatever the reasons, dim sum remains one of the most delightful ways ever invented for whiling away a few hours in the middle of the day. And despite what some think, dim sum is a whole lot more than “dumplings,” a sort of catchall English term for anything vaguely starchy and small in the dim sum brigade. There’s nothing inherently wrong, of course, with calling these dumplings, but it’s sort of like labeling scarlet, chartreuse, and bronze simply “colors,” when they are so much more thrilling than that. The fact is that dim sum covers an intense spectrum of flavors, aromas, textures, and ingredients, and they are very much worth getting to know on a personal basis.
Which is where The Dim Sum Field Guide fits in. My hope is that this book will inspire you to explore the many offerings in dim sum teahouses, whether you carry it with you on your next field excursion, or simply flip through it at home. If dim sum ends up giving you even half the pleasure it has handed to me, I know you will be a dedicated fan for the rest of your life.
BRAISED CHICKEN
GENUS 滷雞 • lǔ jī • lou5 gai1
IDENTIFICATION A whole chicken is slowly cooked in broth seasoned with ginger, green onion, sand ginger, black pepper, and traditional Chinese herbs. The sauce may be slightly sweet or deeply savory. The bird is generally poached over very low heat to keep the meat tender and to prevent the skin from tearing. Unlike Roast Chicken, the fat and skin remain attached to the meat. It is often hung up to dry a bit and then chopped before serving. Exterior is slightly sticky and glossy; interior is juicy and contains bones.
DEFAULT SAUCE OR DIP
Savory meat juices for the dark varieties; lighter birds are often accompanied by bowls of shredded ginger and green onions bathed in hot oil and salt.
NESTING HABITS
A quarter, half, or whole bird is chopped into chunks and served on a plate; deeper-hued varieties will often be perched on a scattering of braised soybeans.
ORIGINS
Most probably traveled to Guangdong from Eastern China, where red-cooked and poached chickens are still enjoyed to this day.
SPECIES
Poached Chicken
白切雞
báiqiē jī • baak6 cit3 gai1
A bird cooked in a pale broth, this subgenus includes Consort’s Chicken
貴妃雞 • guìfēi jī • gwai3 fei1 gai1.
Master Sauce Chicken
豉油雞
chĭyóu jī • si6 jau4 gai1
The bright, dark skin and juicy flesh are courtesy of a rich, seasoned soy sauce broth.
Crispy-Skinned Chicken
脆皮雞
cuìpí jī • ceoi3 pei4 gai1
Pale poached chicken is coated with a maltose mixture and then fried until reddish and crunchy; usually served with fried shrimp chips.
Magistrate’s Chicken
太爺雞
tàiyé jī • taai3 je4 gai1
Smoked master sauce chicken.
Table of Contents
SAVORY DIM SUMSTEAMED WRAPPERS
Steamed Jiaozi • 14
Pot Stickers • 16
Siu Mai • 18
Char Siu Buns • 20
Chicken Buns • 22
Vegetarian Buns • 24
Chaozhou Rice Rolls • 26
Xiaolongbao • 28
Cheong Fun • 30
Fun Gor • 32
Har Gow • 34
Pork and Mung Bean Tamales • 36
Sticky Rice Chicken in Lotus Leaves • 38
UNWRAPPED PROTEINS
Roast Suckling Pig • 40
Crackly Skinned Pork Belly • 42
Char Siu • 44
Black Bean Spareribs • 46
Steamed Meatballs • 48
Stuffed Bean Curd • 50
Braised Brisket with Radishes • 52
Roast Chicken • 54
Braised Chicken • 56
Black Bean Chicken Feet • 58
Roast Duck • 60
Braised Duck Chins • 62
Blanched Goose Intestines • 64
Braised Cuttlefish • 66
Cold Tossed Jellyfish • 68
BAKED DIM SUM
Radish Puffs • 70
Baked Char Siu Buns • 72
Curry Beef Turnovers • 74
Creamy Cabbage Casserole • 76
PAN- AND DEEP-FRIED DIM SUM
Radish Cakes • 78
Shredded Lotus Fritters • 80
Garlic Chive Packets • 82
Honeycomb Taro-Wrapped Pork • 84
Coffee Pork Ribs • 86
Fried Rice-Dough Packets • 88
Soy Skin Rolls • 90
Spring Rolls • 92
Paper-Wrapped Chicken • 94
Wrapped Crab Claws • 96
Deep-Fried Shrimp Pouches • 98
Crouton Shrimp Balls • 100
DELICIOUS EXTRAS
Singapore Rice Noodles • 102
Chow Fun • 104
Fried Rice • 106
Congee • 108
Lo Mein • 110
Crispy Noodle Pillow • 112
Gai Lan With Oyster Sauce • 114
Stir-Fried Water Spinach with Bean Curd Cheese • 116
SWEET DIM SUM
HOT AND WARM SWEETS
Fried Sesame Balls • 120
Sandy Filled Mochi • 122
Chinese Beignets • 124
Sweet Potato Pockets • 126
Fried Water Chestnut Gelée • 128
Durian Puffs • 130
Deep-Fried Milk • 132
Tapioca Pudding • 134
SWEET BUNS
Lotus Seed Paste Buns • 136
Custard Buns • 138
Snow-Topped Buns • 140
Figurative Buns • 142
CHILLED SWEETS
Mango Pudding • 144
Soy Pudding • 146
Guiling Jelly • 148
Date Paste Jellies • 150
Red Bean Tapioca Balls • 152
Sesame Rollups • 154
CAKES AND TARTS
Raised Fermented Rice Cake • 156
Malay Cake • 158
Custard Tarts • 160