Table of Contents
List of Illustrations xi
The Ocean
Map of Russia's Coast 2
Arctic Summer 5
Asia
Map of Russia's Border with Asia 46
Map of North and South Korea 48
The Art of Bowing without Bowing Down 49
Great Leaders 68
A Sensitive Matter 79
Capitalism Lite 93
The Rusty Friendship Bridge 103
203 Hill 108
The Orient's Moscow 120
Restaurant Putin 131
Disney on the Border 139
A Living God, a Mad Baron and a Red Hero 142
World Rulers 151
In the Ruins of a Thousand Treasures 164
Hermits of the Taiga 171
Ninja Miners 184
No Foreigners 193
Back in the U.S.S.R. 210
In the Realm of the Bears 218
City of the Future 230
Bowling in Baikonur 241
The Caucasus
Map of Russia's Border with the Caucasus 254
To Wonderland 257
Mr President and Mrs Vice-President 271
The Black Mountain Garden 280
Singalong on the Border 293
No-Man 307
Stalin's Paradise 320
Europe
Map of Russia's Border with Europe 336
The Inhospitable Sea 339
Quality Swedish Tea 350
The Wart on Russia's Nose 357
The Youngest Breakaway Republic in the World 374
Express Train to Kiev 389
Group Tour to Chernobyl 405
Borderland 416
The People who Disappeared 425
A Trip to the Dacha that Changed the World 443
Lines in the Sand 456
The Master Race 470
Unrest 480
A Lesson in Liberation 487
The Monument War 495
The Outpost 505
The Field Marshal 512
A Lesson in the Value of Maintenance 532
Lapland 543
The Border 551
Map of Finnmark 553
Acknowledgments 585
Brief Outline of the History of Russia 589
Notes 596
Epigraphs 598
Bibliography 599
Index 603