Table of Contents
Foreword ix
Introduction xiii
The Kitchen at Per Se Was a Clean Place but Hard and Heartless Too Kwame Onwuachi Joshua David Stein 1
"I Just Want to Eat Her Up!" Alex Van Buren 7
A Critic for All Seasons Korsha Wilson 11
A Real Hot Mess: How Grits Got Weaponized Against Cheating Men Cynthia R. Greenlee 18
Open Wide Burkhard Bilger 24
Fare Access: DC Restaurants Could Do More to Welcome Diners with Disabilities Laura Hayes 43
Kitchen Shift Hannah Goldfield 55
Lean Cuisine Doesn't Want to Be Part of Diet Culture Anymore. Does It Have a Choice? Kaitlyn Tiffany 68
José R. Ralat:; The Demand for "Authenticity" Is Threatening Kansas City's Homegrown Tacos 76
The Man Who's Going to Save Your Neighborhood Grocery Store Joe Fassler 82
The Provocations of Chef Tunde Wey Brett Martin 106
Whatever Happened to Portland? Meghan McCarron 119
When Jacques Pepin Made All the World an Omelet Joshua David Stein 130
Where'd You Go, Rocco DiSpirito? Kat Kinsman 136
Easy, Peasy, Japanese-y: Benihana and the Question of Cultural Appropriation Sho Spaeth 143
It's Not Always Easy to Be Jamie Oliver Kim Severson 151
New Coke Didn't Fail. It Was Murdered. Tim Murphy 158
Wet 'n Wild Katy Kelleher 169
Peter Luger Used to Sizzle. Now It Sputters. Pete Wells 179
Hard Times for a Hot Commodity, the Prized New Mexico Chile Amelia Nierenberg 183
Here's What the Government's Dietary Guidelines Should Really Say Tamar Haspel 188
The Spice Trade Paige Williams 193
We All Scream Charlotte Druckman 206
What the Heck Is Crab Rangoon Anyway? Dan Nosowitz 224
Yelp Reviewers' Authenticity Fetish Is White Supremacy in Action Sara Kay 230
Contributors' Notes 237
Other Notable Food Writing of 2019 242
