eBook2nd, Revised and Extended Edition (2nd, Revised and Extended Edition)
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Overview
Textile and fibre chemistry form the theoretical basis to understand production and properties of textile based products. In this 2nd edition fundamentals of textile chemistry and theoretical and applicatory aspects of colour chemistry are interconnected to draw detailed picture of chemical reactions occurring during production and modification of textile products. An overview about chemical modification, finishing operations is given to explain how to impart special functionalities into functional products. Examples for technical scale processes and representative machinery used therein give insight into the technical reality of a dyehouse. A new chapter about circularity of textiles highlights the interlinkage between product design, including dyes and finishes, and the requirements to develop future fibre-to-fibre recycling.
The work covers all relevant aspects of a textile product from fibre production, coloration, finishing, consumer use and fibre-to-fibre recycling. The content of the book allows a first entry into this multi-disciplinary field. Through its comprehensive character the authors explain the interdependence between textile and fibre processing and aspects of recycling, which makes the work a valuable source of information to design future textiles for circularity.
Product Details
| ISBN-13: | 9783110795776 |
|---|---|
| Publisher: | De Gruyter |
| Publication date: | 04/03/2023 |
| Series: | De Gruyter STEM |
| Sold by: | Barnes & Noble |
| Format: | eBook |
| Pages: | 491 |
| File size: | 10 MB |
| Age Range: | 18 Years |
About the Author
Prof. Dr. Thomas Bechtold, University Innsbruck, Research Institute for Textile Chemistry and Textile Physics.
Prof. Bechtold is the head of the Research Institute for Textile Chemistry and Textile Physics at the University of Innsbruck since 1998. He is one of the leading scientist in the field of fabric and textile chemistry and published over 260 articles/chapters and 20 patents. Prof. Bechtold is involved in several collaborations with industry and interdisciplinary research programmes. In 2015 he was awarded with the „Wissenschaftspreis des Landes Vorarlberg“ in Austria.
Prof. Dr.-Ing. Tung Pham, University Innsbruck, Research Institute for Textile Chemistry and Textile Physics. Prof. Tung Pham is working as industrial research professor at the Research Institute for Textile Chemistry and Textile Physics at the University of Innsbruck since 2016. He obtained his Ph.D. in Chemistry at the Martin Luther University of Halle-Wittenberg from where he moved for a postdoctoral stay at the Queen’s University in Ontario, Canada.
Table of Contents
1 Textiles 1
1.1 Introduction 1
1.2 Spinning 1
1.3 Linear density - yarn count 3
1.4 Fabric formation 4
1.5 Textile chemical aspects in spinning and fabric formation 5
1.5.1 Spin finish 6
1.5.2 Sizing 8
1.5.3 Embroidery 10
1.5.4 Printing/coating 10
1.5.5 Garment production/assembly/joining 11
1.5.6 Technical textiles 11
References 12
2 Textile fibres 17
2.1 Fibre production 17
2.2 Fibre formation 20
2.2.1 Polymer-dependent fibre properties 20
2.3 Molecular mass/degree of polymerisation 24
2.4 Important fibres and their chemistry 26
2.4.1 Cellulose fibres 26
2.4.2 Structure of cotton/flax/hemp fibres 27
2.5 Relevant aspects of cellulose chemistry (chemical reactions, derivatisation and chemical stability) 32
2.6 Chemical reactions 35
2.6.1 Derivatisation 35
2.6.2 Hydrolysis 35
2.6.3 Oxidation 37
2.6.4 Esterification 38
2.6.5 Etherification 39
2.6.6 Complex formation 40
2.6.7 The secondary structure of cellulose 40
2.6.8 Methods of structural characterisation 42
2.7 Regenerated cellulose fibres 42
2.7.1 Dissolution of cellulose 42
2.7.2 The viscose process 43
2.7.3 Lyocell fibres - the NMMO process 47
2.7.4 Ionic liquids and other cellulose solvents 50
2.7.5 Cupro fibres - the cuprammonium process 50
2.7.6 Cellulose diacetate and triacetate 51
2.8 Protein fibres 52
2.8.1 General aspects of protein fibres 52
2.8.2 Protein structure - basic properties 53
2.8.3 Wool 56
2.8.4 Silk 58
2.8.5 Casein fibres 59
2.9 Synthetic fibres 60
2.9.1 General 60
2.9.2 Polyamide 61
2.9.3 Aminocarboxylic acid-based PAs 62
2.9.4 Diamine-dicarboxylic acid-based PAs 64
2.9.5 PES fibres 66
2.9.6 Polylactic acid and polyhydroxybutyrate 71
2.9.7 Polyurethanes/elastomer fibres 72
2.9.8 Polyolefin fibres, PE and PP 76
2.9.9 Polyacrylonitrile fibres 80
2.9.10 High-performance fibres 82
References 85
3 Structure of textile fibres 93
3.1 General aspects 93
3.2 Crystallinity versus amorphous regions 93
3.3 Constitution of a polymer 94
3.4 High-performance fibres 96
3.5 Molecular weight distribution 98
3.6 Consequences of polydispersity 98
3.7 Configuration 100
3.8 Conformation 102
3.8.1 Conformational statistics 103
3.9 Polymer assemblies 104
3.10 The thermodynamic non-equilibrium state of polymers 105
3.11 Models of fibre structure 107
3.12 Consequences of polymer order in a fibre 110
3.12.1 Moisture/adsorption/swelling 112
References 112
4 Basic interactions between fibre polymers and sorptives 115
4.1 General 115
4.2 Dipoles 115
4.3 Polarisability 117
4.4 Molecular interactions 119
4.4.1 Ion-ion interactions 119
4.4.2 Van der Waals forces 121
4.4.3 Hydrogen bonds 122
4.4.4 Hydrophobic interactions 123
4.4.5 π-electron interactions 124
4.5 The polymer-solvent boundary layer 125
4.6 Zeta potential 128
4.7 Donnan equilibrium 133
References 135
5 Thermodynamics and kinetics in fibre chemistry 139
5.1 Moisture sorption 139
5.2 Moisture sorption isotherms 140
5.2.1 Water activity 141
5.3 Sorption kinetics for adsorption from the gas phase 146
5.4 Sorption from the liquid phase 150
5.4.1 General considerations 150
5.4.2 The Nernst isotherm 151
5.4.3 The Freundlich isotherm 152
5.4.4 Langmuir adsorption isotherm 154
5.4.5 Special aspects of sorption isotherms 156
References 163
6 Kinetics of textile chemical processes 167
6.1 Elementary steps in polyester dyeing 167
6.2 Step A - dissolution of dispersed dye 167
6.3 Infinite and finite dyeing kinetics 169
6.4 Step B - hydraulic transport in the dyebath 170
6.5 Step C - diffusion through the boundary layer of the fibre 171
6.6 Step D - dyestuff sorption in the fibre 172
6.7 Levelling 173
6.8 Follow-up reactions - kinetics in reactive dyeing 174
6.9 Preceding and following reactions - vat dyeing 176
6.10 Aggregation 177
References 177
7 Basics of colour development 181
7.1 The phenomenon of colour - how to approach? 181
7.2 Physical aspects of colour development 182
7.3 Additive and subtractive colour 185
7.4 Development of colour 186
7.5 Colour variations independent of molecular structure 192
7.6 Fluorescence and phosphorescence 193
7.7 Textile chemical relevance 196
References 198
8 General principles of dyes 203
8.1 The molecular structure of dyes 203
8.2 The azo chromophore 203
8.2.1 Mono-, di- and polyazo dyes 203
8.2.2 The diazotisation 204
8.2.3 The coupling component 206
8.3 Anthraquinone chromophores 209
8.4 Indigoid chromophores 212
8.5 Cationic dyes 212
8.6 Polymethine dyes 213
8.7 Phthalocyanine dyes - Aza
214
8.8 Sulphur-based chromophores 215
8.9 Metal complexes 216
8.10 Formazan dyes 217
8.11 Fluorescent brighteners/fluorescent whitening agents 218
8.12 Photodegradation of dyes 218
8.13 Photodegradation of dye classes 220
References 224
9 Colour measurement 227
9.1 The perception of colour 227
9.2 The standard observer 230
9.3 Colour specification through the CIELAB system 232
9.4 Metamerism 232
9.5 Tristimulus values 234
9.6 Colour coordinates 236
9.7 Measurement of reflectance curves 240
9.8 Determination of whiteness, yellowness 242
9.9 Colour strength - the Kubelka-Munk function 244
9.10 Prediction of dyeing recipes 246
9.11 Gloss/Iustre 247
References 249
10 Dye chemistry 253
10.1 Overview 253
10.2 Disperse dyes 253
10.2.1 Dyeing processes with disperse dyes 253
10.2.2 Reductive cleaning 257
10.3 Direct dyes 258
10.4 Reactive dyes 260
10.4.1 Chemistry of reactive dyes 260
10.4.2 Important dyeing techniques 268
10.5 Vat dyes 272
10.5.1 Oxidation/soaping 279
10.6 Indigo 283
10.6.1 Synthesis of indigo 283
10.6.2 Application of indigo 284
10.6.3 Chemistry of indigo reduction 287
10.6.4 Garment wash - fading 291
10.7 Sulphur dyes 292
10.8 Acid dyes and metal complex dyes 296
10.9 Naphthol dyes 299
10.10 Cationic dyes/basic dyes 300
10.11 Natural colourants 302
10.11.3 General aspects 302
10.11.2 Major classes of natural colourants 304
10.11.3 Tannin-based dyes 309
10.12 Pigment dyes 312
10.13 Textile printing 313
10.13.1 General aspects of printing 313
10.13.2 Screen printing 317
10.13.3 Ink-jet printing 319
10.13.4 Special printing techniques 321
References 321
11 Pre-treatment 329
11.1 Sizing 329
11.2 Desizing 332
11.3 Alkaline extraction 333
11.4 Prewashing of textiles from synthetic fibres 334
11.5 Setting of synthetic fibres 334
11.6 Alkalisation (causticising, mercerisation) 335
11.7 Alkalisation of polyester fibres 337
11.8 Bleaching 338
11.8.1 General aspects 338
11.8.2 Peroxide compounds 338
11.8.3 Halogen-based oxidants 341
11.9 Singing 343
11.10 Carbonisation 343
11.11 Reductive bleach 344
11.12 Wool anti-felt treatment 345
11.13 Cationisation 347
11.14 Degumming of silk 348
11.15 Production of microfibres 348
References 348
12 Finishing 353
12.1 General aspects 353
12.2 Easy-care/durable press finishing 353
12.3 Softening 357
12.4 Hand building finishes 359
12.5 Water-repellent finishes 360
12.6 Flame retardant finishes 362
12.7 Antistatic finishes 367
12.8 Improvement of colour fastness 372
12.9 Improving the light fastness 373
12.10 UV protection 374
12.11 Antimicrobial finishing 377
12.12 Insect-resistant finishes - Wife protection 380
12.13 Enzymatic finishing - biofinishing 381
12.14 Denim finishing 383
12.15 Finishes that influence thermal regulation 386
12.16 Sorption of fragrances and functional substances 387
12.17 Plasma chemistry in textile treatment/modification 388
12.17.1 Introduction 388
12.17.2 Effect of plasma treatment on fibre and textile surfaces 389
12.17.3 Free radical formation 389
12.17.4 Etching/cleaning 390
12.17.5 Surface activation and functionalisation 391
12.17.6 Surface coating by plasma-induced polymerisation 391
12.17.7 Industrial plasma technologies and applications on textiles 392
References 393
13 Technical approaches in dyestuff/chemical application 397
13.1 General aspects 397
13.2 Batchwise operation 397
13.3 Yarn dyeing apparatus 398
13.4 Overflow dyeing machines/jet dyeing machines 400
13.5 Continuous pretreatment 401
13.6 Continuous dyeing processes - cold-pad-batch dyeing 404
13.7 Continuous dyeing processes - pad-dry/pad steam plants 406
13.8 Drying, fixation and finishing 409
13.9 Minimum pick-up applications 410
13.10 Coating and laminating 411
References 411
14 Surfactants, detergents and laundry 419
14.1 Surfactants 419
14.2 Classification of surfactants 419
14.3 Solubility of surfactants 420
14.4 Contact angle 422
14.5 Cloud point 425
14.6 Surfactant adhesion at interfaces 425
14.7 The role of multivalent ions 427
14.8 Detergent ingredients 428
14.9 Washing and environment 434
References 435
15 Environmental aspects of textiles 439
15.1 Waste water 439
15.2 General wastewater treatment 440
15.3 Processing steps and relevant aspects of wastewater treatment 442
15.3.1 General 442
15.3.2 Wool processing 442
15.3.3 Sizing/desizing 443
15.3.4 Scouring, bleaching, pre-washing 444
15.3.5 Mercerisation/causticising 445
15.3.6 Dyeing processes 446
15.3.7 Printing 448
15.3.8 Finishing 449
15.4 End-of-pipe technologies 449
15.4.1 Neutralisation 449
15.4.2 Filtration techniques 449
15.4.3 Flocculation and sedimentation 451
15.4.4 Oxidative processes 451
15.4.5 Adsorption 451
15.4.6 Biological (aerobic, anaerobic) treatment 451
15.5 Recycling and disposal 452
15.6 Approaches and challenges 453
References 454
Index 459