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'Tales from the Tale'
A 'Whale' of a Guide to Seafood Cookery
By Philip Andriano Trafford Publishing
Copyright © 2013 Chef Philip Andriano
All rights reserved.
ISBN: 978-1-4907-1946-7
CHAPTER 1
Sautéing
In the culinary schools in which I taught, we first tackled sautéing and stir frying because the first step one takes when one prepares most meals with vegetables, fish and meats is to sear or sauté the product.
The word sauté literally mean "jump" As the word implies, the sauté pan or "sauteuse" must be kept "jumping" in order to insure the product is cooked evenly. One way of doing that is to practice with a sauté pan off the fire by putting dried beans into the pan, tilt the pan forward, and then flick your wrist so that the beans jump to the rear of the pan. Keep practicing this maneuver until you get a smooth flow. Constant, smooth movement is important for uniform cooking. Please don't sauté with hot fat until you can do your bean practice without spilling any beans. If hot fat lands on you while you're sautéing, you will get a second degree burn. The handle of the sauteuse is also hot, but gloves are cumbersome. Use a light towel to handle the pan. Another way of achieving proficiency with a sauteuse is simply to watch a chef on TV and imitate him or her.
Sautéing is used when a product's juices are to be seared in to retain flavor and moisture. Sautéing also causes the natural flavors of the product to be released into the pan. Sautéing also results in a process known as caramelizing, which is simply the release of the natural sugars which then brown and add color (e.g. the golden brown of an onion or garlic) to the product. Proper sautéing requires that the product not be burnt in the process. Burning during the t step causes bitterness and gives an off-color to the product.
Because it is done so quickly, the sauté method is meant for small pieces of seafood ... Shrimp, scallops or shucked mollusks are small and firm enough to be sautéed whole. Larger fish needs to be sliced or escalloped into sauté sized pieces. The sauté method should be used only on fish with firm flesh such as swordfish, monkfish, grouper, tuna or shark. Sauté is not a good method for fish that are too delicate or flaky such as flounder, cod or salmon.
An important concept to consider when sautéing is what is known in French as "mise en place" which means "putting in place." This concept indicates the extreme importance of having everything needed for cooking prepared and readily available before beginning the actual cooking process. To start to sauté a meal and stop to peel or cut up a carrot is not feasible. The Larousse Gastronome states: "When all these small tasks are done, and all the operations preceding the actual cooking completed, the work of cooking is much simplified." The recipes included in this book are laid out in steps so that the effecting of "mise en place" can be accomplished. The "INGREDIENTS" section of each recipe tells what ingredients should be at hand for each step of the recipe.
Sautéing must take place in a small amount of fat. "Fat" can mean such things as animal fat, butter, margarine, vegetable oils, olive oil or seed oils. Which "fat" one uses should be dictated by the product being sautéed and/or the ethnic origin of the recipe and/or health considerations. For instance, shrimp prepared Cajun style should be sautéed in fatback, which is literally fat off a pig's back. Shrimp prepared in an Italian method such as scampi would be sautéed in olive oil. Yet oriental shrimp would be stir fired in sesame oil and soy oil, same shrimp, but totally different flavors. I hasten to add that substituting a vegetable fat for an animal fat for health or personal reasons (monounsaturated fats, like olive oil is healthiest) or for "whatever blows your hair back" is perfectly all right provided you can accept a non traditional taste.
The method of sautéing, as do all cooking methods, consists of several steps which will be illustrated by the following recipes. Sautéing is sometimes only the first step in preparing a course. Other times, an entire entree is prepared within the sautés and usually finished in a sauce. Such an entree is;
Sea Scallops with Cracked Peppercorns and Anisette
Yield: 2 servings
INGREDIENTS
Step one: Fat (olive oil) 2tsp
Minced garlic ½ tsp
Chopped onion 1Tb
Step two: Sea scallops 12oz
Cracked black peppercorns ½ tsp
Granulated sugar ½ tsp
Anisette 1oz (a shot)
Step three: Prepared tomato sauce 1Tb
Prepared beef stock (bouillon) 2oz
Half and half cream 1oz
Salt to taste
Thyme a pinch
Nutrition Facts
Amount per Serving
Calories 307.1
Total Fat 8.3 g
Saturated Fat 1.7 g
Polyunsaturated Fat 0.5 g
Monounsaturated Fat 3.8 g
Cholesterol 75.6 mg
Sodium 422.6 mg
Potassium 112.0 mg
Total Carbohydrate 8.4 g
Dietary Fiber 0.2 g
Sugars 6.5 g
Protein 35.3 g
METHOD
Step one: In a sauté pan, place the fat over high heat. As soon as the fat has heated, add the garlic and then the onion in that order, sauté until translucent.
Step two: Add the sea scallops, peppercorns and sugar. Sauté until the scallops are golden and seared. Remove the sauté pan from fire and pour in the shot of anisette. The anisette should vaporize (steam). Return the pan to the fire. At this point you may or may not have a flash of fire if the alcohol ignites. Whether it fires or not, does not affect the recipe, just don't blow yourself up. At this point, remove the scallops from the pan and set them aside.
Step three: Add the tomato sauce, the beef stock, half and half cream, salt and thyme to the pan and return to the fire. Reduce sauce by 1/2. Then return the scallops to the pan and further reduce until the sauce coats the scallops. Put 'em on some herbal or plain rice. Then, eat 'em.
NOTES
Step one:
A-The smoking point of oil is higher than butter. Any fat should not be heated past the smoking point because above the smoking point, the oil will not brown the garlic and onions, it will burn them.
B-Put the garlic in before the onions because what you are looking for is a golden color from the garlic. You can actually smell the release of the garlic's essence. Then add onions, whose released water content will further prevent the garlic from burning.
Step two:
A-When the scallops are removed from the pan and set aside; they should not be fully cooked, just seared. They will tend to "weep" juices, so put them in a bowl rather than on a flat dish. Don't throw out or drain off the juice.
B-We are just kidding about blowing yourself up, but do be careful not to put your face over the pan when returning it to the fire.
C-I am not kidding about the importance of taking the pan off the fire before you add the alcohol. If you add the alcohol to a pan on the fire, you really can blow up!
Step three:
A-The prepared sauce, stocks and liquids used in this and other recipes are known as "cooking mediums" from which sauces are made. In this recipe it's the sauce for the scallops. They can be store bought, but if you want, can be homemade. Stocks can be made and frozen in ice cube trays for incremental use.
Note: From step one to step three should take less than seven minutes.
Another entree which is made entirely in the sauteuse is:
Scampi with Garlic, Basil, Black Olives and Fresh Tomato
Yield: 2 servings
INGREDIENTS
Step one: Fat (olive oil) 2tsp
Minced garlic ½ tsp
Chopped onion 1Tb
Granulated sugar ½ tsp
Step two: Medium shrimp peeled and cleaned 12 ea (12oz)
Flour 1Tb
Sliced black olives 2Tb
Diced fresh tomato ¼ cp
Minced fresh basil 1Tb
Step three: Prepared fish stock (bouillon) 2oz
White wine 2oz (2 shots)
Half and half cream 2oz
Nutrition Facts
Amount per Serving
Calories 362.5
Total Fat 14.1 g
Saturated Fat 4.5 g
Polyunsaturated Fat 1.7 g
Monounsaturated Fat 5.3 g
Cholesterol 275.1 mg
Sodium 444.6 mg
Potassium 489.4 mg
Total Carbohydrate 15.2 g
Dietary Fiber 0.4 g
Sugars 3.2 g
Protein 37.5 g
METHOD
Step one: In a sauté pan, place the oil over high heat. As soon as the oil becomes heated, add the garlic, the onions and the sugar in that order, cook until translucent and golden brown.
Step two: Immediately, add the shrimp. Sauté until seared. Remove shrimp from pan and reserve. Add pinch of flour to pan along with olives, tomato and basil.
Step three: Add the stock, wine, heavy cream, salt and pepper to the pan and return the pan to the fire. Reduce sauce by 1/2. Then, return the shrimp to the pan and further reduce until the sauce coats the shrimp. Put 'em on some risotto or orzo pasta or linguine. Then, eat 'em.
NOTES
Step one:
A-As stated, the smoking point of olive oil is slightly higher than butter. Knowing the heating capacity that various fats can endure is an important part of successful sautéing. As you work with different recipes, you will become more familiar with these temperatures.
B-As in the last recipe, put the garlic before the onions because you are looking for a golden color of the garlic and you can actually smell the release of the essence of the garlic. Then add the onions, whose released water content will further prevent the garlic from burning.
C-The pinch of sugar will enhance the caramelizing process of the sauté method and will neutralize the acids in the wine which is added in step three.
Step two:
A-When the shrimp are removed from the pan and set aside; they will not weep as did the scallops. They must be firm but tender to the touch and completely cooked. Thirty seconds is usually all that is required in a hot olive oil medium. Don't overcook the shrimp as they will shrink and dry up.
B-The flour added to the hot oil acts as a thickening agent and when the liquids are added, a sauce begins to form.
Step three:
A-As before, these prepared stocks and liquids are what are known as "cooking mediums" from which the sauce for the shrimp are made and complete the cooking process. They can be store bought or home made. Stocks can be made and frozen in ice cube trays for incremental use.
B-The optional use of heavy cream will act as a glaze for the shrimp.
Note: From step one through step three should take less than five minutes.
Monkfish with Smoked Bacon Ragout
Yield: 2 servings
INGREDIENTS
Step one: Fat (packaged bacon) ¼ cp (raw)
Minced garlic 1tsp
Coarsely chopped onion ¼ cp
Granulated sugar ½ tsp
Step two: Thinly (1/4") sliced monkfish 8pc/1oz ea
Flour 2Tb
Sweet peppers (red, yellow, green) ¼ cp
Diced fresh tomato ¼ cp
Minced fresh basil 1Tb
Thyme leaves a pinch
Step three: Prepared beef stock (bouillon) ½ cp/4oz
Prepared tomato sauce ¼ cp
Red wine 2oz (2 shots)
Salt and red pepper flakes (to taste)
Nutrition Facts
Amount per Serving
Calories 309.2
Total Fat 5.0 g
Saturated Fat 0.7 g
Polyunsaturated Fat 0.5 g
Monounsaturated Fat 3.4 g
Cholesterol 0.0 mg
Sodium 251.4 mg
Potassium 339.5 mg
Total Carbohydrate 23.4 g
Dietary Fiber 2.4 g
Sugars 4.2 g
Protein 3.3 g
METHOD
Step one: In a large sauté pan, place the bacon over high heat. Render the fat out without burning the bacon. Remove and reserve the cooked bacon. Leave in fry pan. Add garlic, onions and sugar as in previous recipes.
Step two: Immediately, add the slices of monkfish. Sauté until seared. Remove monkfish from pan and reserve. Add flour to the pan. Let the flour cook out over a lower heat until golden brown. Now, add peppers, tomato, basil and thyme. Cook for an additional thirty seconds.
Step three: Add the stock, prepared tomato sauce, wine, salt and pepper flakes to the pan. Then return the monkfish to the pan and reduce until the sauce coats the monkfish. Add the bacon. Put it on "dirty rice" (see note) and serve with corn bread. Then eat it.
NOTES
Step one:
A-Rendered oil from the bacon serves as our cooking medium. Any saturated fat like bacon will smoke at a much lower temperature than the olive oil of previous recipes, so be careful not to scorch it or it will turn the dish bitter.
Step two:
A-As in the sauté recipes, the flour added to the hot oil acts as a thickening agent. But in this recipe, it is important to cook out the flour over low heat, creating a hazel brown roux. In classic Cajun cooking, the thickening agent (roux) is always further cooked.
Step three:
A-The heat of the pan needs to be lower here than in sauté recipes and dropped to a simmer.
B-The "dirty rice" is a classic Cajun accompaniment consisting of vegetables, chicken liver, and sautéed together then added to white rice. You know how to sauté now, so make your own "dirty rice" recipe to suit your taste.
Note: From step one to step three should take little more than ten minutes.
Note: The larger pieces of seafood and the increased amount of liquid in this recipe make it almost a pan stewing recipe rather than a sauté recipe.
Pan Stewing
Pan stewing is similar to sautéing except that the time of reduction is increased because the presence of more liquid and larger pieces of product. The amount of liquid is such that it is no longer a sauce but really a stew, where the product is enveloped in a larger amount of liquid. The consistency of the liquid is the result of what kind of effect you are trying to create. A bouillabaisse is considered a lighter stew consisting of a bouillon and an infusion of herbs along with the seafood while a ragout is a thicker stew which can consist of a purée of tomatoes and/or other garden vegetables.
The first step in pan stewing is the sauté process. Once the sautéing is done, and the seafood, vegetables and cooking medium are added to the pan the cooking time is increased. Unlike sautéing, pan stewing finishes the product over a lower heat. It is simmered so the flavors of the products have time to be released and marry in the medium. The liquid is now considered not a sauce but rather part of a finished stew.
We use the word "stew" here to mean a meal cooked within a large amount of liquid. Many people think of a stew as something that is cooked in a large pot over several hours of low heat which of course is correct. Pan stewing creates much the same kind of meal as a potted stew, but takes far less time. Consider these recipes the first of which is a bouillabaisse style which has a slightly thickened sauce using a roux of oil and flour, the second of which is a thicker ragout style recipe getting its thickening through a vegetable purée and in the third of which a pasta is cooked directly in a sauce instead of being boiled first and the sauce added later:
Northport Shellfish Stew
Yield: 2 servings
INGREDIENTS
Step one: Fat (olive oil) 2tsp
Minced garlic 1tsp
Coarsely chopped onion ¼ cp
Granulated sugar a pinch
Flour 2Tbs.
Step two: Mussels in shell, well cleaned 2dz
Littleneck clams in shell-well cleaned 1dz
Sea scallops ½ dz
Shrimp peeled and cleaned ½ dz
Firm fleshed fish (ex. monk, cat, tuna) 4oz
Sweet peppers (red, yellow, green) ¼ cp
Minced fresh basil 1Tb
Thyme leaves a pinch
Tarragon a pinch
Step three: Prepared chicken or fish stock ½ cp/4oz
(bouillon)
White wine 2oz (2 shots)
Salt and pepper (to taste)
Nutrition Facts
Amount per Serving
Calories 659.6
Total Fat 14.3 g
Saturated Fat 2.2 g
Polyunsaturated Fat 2.8 g
Monounsaturated Fat 5.1 g
Cholesterol 154.2 mg
Sodium 1,320.7 mg
Potassium 1,005.1 mg
Total Carbohydrate 40.9 g
Dietary Fiber 2.4 g
Sugars 7.2 g
Protein 70.3 g
(Continues...)
Excerpted from 'Tales from the Tale' by Philip Andriano. Copyright © 2013 Chef Philip Andriano. Excerpted by permission of Trafford Publishing.
All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher.
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