Table of Contents
Introduction 1
Maps of India and Kashmir 3
Places visited in Kashmir 4
A window of opportunity 5
The dream begins 11
Surprises 13
Our houseboat 15
A dreamy ride on the lake 21
The surprises of Srinagar 25
Amazing Mughal architecture 33
A day trip to Pahalgam 39
A journey to Sonamarg 45
Our final day: still more to see 55
Final thoughts 63
Afterword 65
Essential travel information 69
A note about Covid-19 69
Resources 69
Tour operator 69
Travel insurance 70
Books and magazines 70
Newspapers printed in English 71
Online resources 71
Government advisories 71
Safety and security 73
When to go 75
Getting a visa 76
Kashmiri culture, beliefs, traditions, and practices 78
Kashmiri food, food safety, and recipes 83
Kashmiri tea (Kahwa) 84
Kasmiri lamb curry (Rogan Josh) 85
Chicken Yakhni 87
Banana fritters with raisins and powdered sugar 88
How to dress 89
What to bring-a packing list for Kashmir and all of India 90
What to shop for and how to bargain 98
Key buys in Kashmir 98
The art of bargaining 99
Dealing with money 102
How to get around 104
About the author 105
A note from the author 111