Read an Excerpt
Introduction
Talking Story
A life devoted to surfing has been a splendid way to live. From the beginning, the adventures have been memorable: Growing up in the extraordinary place that was Hawai‘i in the 1950s and 1960s. Playing a part in the shortboard revolution of the late 1960s and early 1970s. Living the dream in the Country before it was ever called the North Shore. Experiencing the awe, fear, and ultimate satisfaction of finding the tube in the early days at the Pipeline. Traveling for surf throughout the world: to the original surf camp at G-Land, the exotic islands off Sumatra, and especially to the magic island of Bali, Indonesia—before it became a popular surf destination. Experiencing the beginnings of windsurfing on Maui, the rebirth in Hawai‘i of prone paddleboarding, the early years of snowboarding and tow-in surfing at Jaws. Finding and falling in deep to the new sport of standup paddle surfing and downwind running. And through it all, designing and building the equipment, the boards and accessories that make each new evolution of the surf game more inviting, more challenging, and more satisfying.
But it is the people that surfing molds into truly unique individuals, each with his own special story, that stand out. Many of these surfers who helped create the surfing world of today are unknown for their contributions, or are already forgotten.
It is said that the best thing about surfing is talking about it afterwards. This is true and, while surfing is an intimately personal endeavor, the stories can be enjoyed by anyone. My father, a career newspaperman, instilled in me a desire to put these stories into written form. There was more encouragement, help and support given by family and friends. I’ve felt a duty to record some of the events and people I have had the pleasure of being involved with; they are the history of this fine sport.
These stories are for those surfers who helped shape surfing and for the younger surfers who may be interested in the way things were before their time. They are also for anyone who has never been on a surfboard, or rode a wave, but finds the idea of it intriguing.
Surfing is a deeply wonderful thing—anytime, anywhere, and any way.
- Gerry Lopez
