Sew Luxe Leather: Over 20 Stylish Leather Craft Accessories

by Rosanna Gethin

Overview

Fancy a wardrobe full of luxurious leather accessories without the painful price tag?

This collection of 20 luxe leather projects is perfect if you're looking for original, high quality projects made from leather, all of which can be made on a domestic sewing machine or with hand stitching. Starting with the simpler projects in this book you’ll be able to learn and practice your leather work skills as you go. 

Sew Luxe Leather will help you gradually build up your skills and confidence: 

• Choose from small projects to get started such as a keyring, card case, small purse and super-useful earphone holder, right up to the ultimate leather laptop case and a really chic foldover clutch for instant style credentials. 
• Learn all the skills you'll need to make these projects and be surprised at how little equipment is necessary to create these stunning leather makes. 
• Impress friends and family with your hand crafted leather accessories--

You'll never be short of ideas for what to make as the perfect gift for everyone in your life!

Product Details

ISBN-13:	9781446376508
Publisher:	David & Charles
Publication date:	05/25/2018
Sold by:	Barnes & Noble
Format:	eBook
Sales rank:	968,766
File size:	45 MB
Note:	This product may take a few minutes to download.

About the Author

Rosanna Gethin sells her own range of leather jewellery and accessories as well as running workshops for leather crafts from her studio and various venues in the UK. She has a Masters in Textile Design, and started working with leather due to her love of upcycling and repurposing. Her designs have a very contemporary feel: many of them feature geometric shapes and patterns as well as pops of brightly coloured and metallic leather alongside the classic neutrals. She has a decade of teaching experience and has built up an extensive range of skills, which she passes on at her workshops.
Rosanna Gethin sells her own range of leather jewellery and accessories as well as running workshops for leather crafts from her studio and various venues in the UK. She has a Masters in Textile Design, and started working with leather due to her love of upcycling and repurposing. Her designs have a very contemporary feel: many of them feature geometric shapes and patterns as well as pops of brightly coloured and metallic leather alongside the classic neutrals. She has a decade of teaching experience and has built up an extensive range of skills, which she passes on at her workshops.

Read an Excerpt

CHAPTER 1

TASSEL KEYRING

This is the perfect accessory for any handbag or set of keys that need a bit of colour. It's also a great project on which to practise your cutting and gluing skills – and there's no sewing required.

No sew

16 x 14cm (6¼ x 5½in) piece of chrome-dyed leather, 1-1.4mm thick

You will need:

• 30mm (1 1/8in) lobster clasp

Finished size:

15 x 2.5cm (5 7/8 x 1in)

1. Cut out as follows:

• One rectangle of leather 14 x 12cm (5½ x 4¾in) for the tassel

• One rectangle of leather 6 x 1cm (2 3/8 x 3/8in) for the tab

2. Feed the tab piece through the clasp ring and apply glue to the wrong side of the leather on either end. Leave to dry for a few minutes before sticking the ends together (a).

3. Place the tassel piece right side up on your cutting mat and secure the top of the tassel – one of the 14cm (5½in) edges – to the mat with masking tape. Ensure that the lower edge of the masking tape is 2cm (¾in) from the top edge of the tassel piece.

4. Cut straight lines from the lower edge of the masking tape down to the bottom of the tassel piece in approximately 5mm (¼in) intervals (b).

5. On the right side of the leather, sand and apply glue to the left half of the uncut section of the tassel piece – see Techniques: Gluing (c). You might need to use impact adhesive to achieve a firm enough bond, rather than contact adhesive, depending on your leather. Test the glue on a sample of leather first.

6. Turn the tassel piece over and apply glue to the uncut section on the wrong side of the leather. Apply a small amount of glue to the bottom of the tab (as this is the right side of the leather you may need to rub this with sandpaper first to help the glue stick). Place the tab onto the edge of the glued section on the wrong side of the tassel piece (d).

7. Once the glue is tacky, tightly roll the tab inside the tassel, keeping the edges even as you roll (e). Place a clamp or bulldog clip around the top of the tassel while it dries. Leave for at least 1 hour before releasing.

FRINGED BOOKMARK

This is a great taster project to get you started with the basics of marking and cutting out leather. Why not make a few as gifts for friends and family – everyone needs a bookmark!

No sew

20 x 6cm (7 7/8 x 2 3/8in) piece of vegetable-tanned or chrome-dyed leather, 1.2-2mm thick

Finished size: 18 x 4cm (7 1/8 x 1 5/8in)

1. Cut out the bookmark templates (see Templates) from thick card and transfer all markings onto the card.

2. Use these templates to cut out the main body and tassel from the leather (a). See Techniques: Cutting.

3. Place masking tape 4cm (1 5/8in) from the bottom edge of the bookmark. Using the template as a guide, mark the intervals that will form the tasselled end along the tape's edge (b).

4. Position the tip of the scalpel at the edge of the masking tape and cut the fringe, using the marks and ruler as a guide (c).

5. Using the template again as a guide, punch a 4mm (1/8in) hole at the top of the bookmark (d).

6. Take the skinny length of leather and fold in half, wrong sides together, to form a loop. Thread the loop through the hole you've just made (e).

7. Thread the ends through the loop and gently pull taut to form the tassel (f).

BOLD CUFFS

These versatile cuffs in two styles are simple to make; comfortable due to being made from softer chrome-dyed leather, they are totally on trend. You'll be the envy of your friends, so prepare to take orders!

No sew

Option 1: 30 x 7cm (11¾ x 2¾in) piece of vegetable-tanned or chrome-dyed leather, 1.2–2mm thick

Option 2: 30 x 5cm (11¾ x 2in) piece of vegetable-tanned or chromedyed leather, 1.2–2mm thick

You will need:

• Option 1: Sam Browne stud 5mm (¼in)

• Option 2: Press fastener 10–15mm (3/8–5/8in)

Finished size:

Option 1: To fit wrist x 5cm (2in) Option 2: To fit wrist x 2cm (¾in)

OPTION 1

SLICED CUFF

1. First, measure the circumference of your wrist and add 2cm (¾in) to allow for a 1cm (3/8in) overlap on each end. Use this length to adjust the template if need be (see Templates) (a). Use the template to cut out the main shape of the cuff using a ruler and rotary cutter or scalpel. Transfer all markings onto the leather with a pencil.

2. Place masking tape 2cm (¾in) from the top and bottom edges. Follow the marks you made to cut nine slices each 5mm (¼in) apart between the strips of tape (b).

3. Punch out the top hole 1cm (3/8in) from the end, as marked on the template (c).

4. Place the Sam Browne stud through the hole and tighten up (see Techniques: Inserting Fastenings) (d).

5. Cross-cut the opposite end of the cuff 1cm (3/8in) in from the end (e). The cuts should be no more than 1cm (3/8in) each way depending on the thickness of leather and size of stud. The thicker the leather, the longer the cuts may need to be. Test on a piece of scrap leather first.

6. Push the stud through to join the two ends together (f).

OPTION 2

PUNCHED CUFF

1. Measure your wrist and adjust the template as described in Step 1 of the Sliced Cuff. Use a hole punching tool to position and cut the holes on the template (g). Mark out the leather using the template and cut out using a ruler and rotary cutter or scalpel. Transfer markings onto the leather with a pencil.

2. Round off the ends of the cuff with a belt-end cutter and mallet, or cut carefully with a sharp scalpel (see Techniques: Rounding Off Ends).

3. Mark holes on the leather using the template and punch out carefully (h).

4. Punch out the top and bottom hole of the cuff and add the press fastener to each end (see Techniques: Inserting Fastenings).

CARD HOLDER

Get to grips with the basics of stitching leather by hand with this simple card holder project. Using traditional saddlery techniques, the stitching adds detail to an otherwise minimalist design.

Hand stitched

22 x 10cm (8 5/8 x 4in) piece of vegetable-tanned or smooth chrome-dyed leather, 1.2–2mm thick maximum

You will need:

• Pricking iron 4mm (1/8in) spacing

Finished size:

8 x 10cm (3 1/8 x 4in)

1. Cut out:

• One rectangle of leather 20 x 8cm (7 7/8 x 3 1/8in). This size allows around three credit cards and a note or two.

2. Apply a thin layer of glue about 5mm (¼in) wide along each long edge on the wrong side of the leather. Allow the glue to go tacky (a).

3. Fold the leather in half as carefully as possible, making sure the edges are evenly matched, then press together all the way to the fold (b). Trim off any uneven edges with a ruler and sharp scalpel.

4. Using an awl and ruler, score a line 5mm (¼in) in from the edge along each side to be stitched (see Techniques: Scoring & Punching). This will be your guideline for punching the holes.

5. Starting at the cut edge, place the pricking iron along the guideline with the first prong sitting just over the edge (c). Make sure you have a thick piece of scrap leather underneath to help the hole punch to go through the leather, and hit with a mallet. Use the last hole from the first set as the first hole for the second set of holes and so on. Stop when you are approximately 5–10mm (¼–3/8in) from the fold (this distance will depend on the thickness of the leather; avoid punching in the fold itself).

6. Push the awl through all of the holes by about 2cm (¾in) to make them bigger, as this will ease the sewing process (see Techniques: Scoring & Punching).

7. Cut a piece of your chosen thread four times longer than the area to be stitched and thread a needle onto each end, pulling the thread through by approximately 10cm (4in) (see Techniques: Hand Stitching). Set up the lacing pony – if you don't have one, just hold the case between your knees.

8. Complete your stitching on both sides of the case (d), cut the threads and burn the ends.

9. Cut out a scoop (optional) using a 2cm (¾in) belt-end cutter or scalpel (see Techniques: Cutting) (e).

10. If you have used vegetable-tanned leather, finish by rubbing in a layer of saddle soap with a cloth. This helps protect the leather from marks and stains (important for frequently handled items).

See Techniques: Surface Treatments.

LUGGAGE TAG

Make your luggage stand out from the crowd with a personalised tag. The practical additions of bold metal hardware and an optional acetate window ensure a professional looking finish.

Hand stitched

20 x 25cm (7 7/8 x 9 7/8in) piece of vegetable-tanned or smooth chrome-dyed leather, 1.8–2mm thick

NB if you want to use contrasting colours as shown, ensure you have enough of each colour before cutting out

You will need:

• Clear acetate 6 x 8cm (2 3/8 x 3 1/8in) (optional)

• Pricking iron 4mm (1/8in) spacing

• Press fastener 15mm (5/8in)

• Rivet 6mm (¼in)

Finished size:

13 x 7.5cm (5 1/8 x 3in)

1. Mark out the front and back (main body) pieces and strap of the luggage tag using the templates (see Templates) (a). Mark the holes then cut out the pieces with a rotary cutter or scalpel and punch the holes. Don't forget to cut the window from the front piece only.

2. If you wish to add the acetate window, use the template to cut the acetate to size, then apply a thin layer of impact adhesive up to 5mm (¼in) in from the edge all around the edge of the right side of the acetate window (b). Repeat around the wrong side of the window in the leather, leave to go tacky, and press the pieces together.

3. Attach the male part of the press fastener to the front piece (c) (see Techniques: Inserting Fastenings), then apply glue around the edge of the wrong side of each main body piece and press together. Add the female part of the press fastener to the strap as shown (d).

4. Use a ruler and awl to score a border 5mm (¼in) in from the edge all around the front of the tag (see Techniques: Scoring & Punching). Next, punch holes along the line using the pricking iron and mallet making sure the prongs of the pricking iron have gone all the way through the leather (e).

5. Push the awl through the holes to open them up a bit to make stitching easier (f).

6. Cut a piece of your chosen thread four times longer than the area to be stitched and thread a needle onto each end, pulling the thread through by approximately 10cm (4in). Set up your lacing pony and clamp your piece in place with the top side on the left as shown (g) and saddle stitch (see Techniques: Hand Stitching).

7. Punch the hole for the strap (h), then rivet in place (i). See Techniques: Inserting Fastenings.

EARPHONE HOLDERS

These holders are the perfect storage for your earphones, keeping them safe and tangle free. In addition, they'll get you started with the basics of cutting, gluing and machine-sewing leather.

Options 1 and 2: No sew

Option 3: Machine sewn

Options 1 and 2: 12 x 12cm (4¾ x 4¾in) piece of vegetable-tanned leather, 1.4–2.5mm thick

Option 3: 12 x 12cm (4¾ x 4¾in) piece of chrome-dyed leather, 1–1.4mm thick

You will need:

• Options 1 and 2: Sam Browne stud 5mm (¼in)

• Option 3: Press fastener 10–15mm (3/8–5/8in)

Finished size:

Options 1 and 2: 10 x 5cm (4 x 2in) Option 3: 10 x 7cm (4 x 2¾in)

OPTION 1

SNAP AND GO

1. Copy the template for Option 1 (see Templates) onto the wrong side of the leather with a leather marker pen and cut out. Mark and punch the holes (a).

2. Add the Sam Browne stud (see Techniques: Inserting Fastenings) (b).

OPTION 2

CLEVER CUT OUTS

1. Copy the template for Option 2 (see Templates) onto the wrong side of the leather with a leather marker pen and cut out. Mark and punch the holes.

2. Mark the notches from the template onto both sides of the circle (c), and cut with a sharp scalpel. These grooves help to keep the earphone lead in place.

3. Add the Sam Browne stud (see Techniques: Inserting Fastenings).

OPTION 3

SAFE AND SOUND

1. Copy both parts of the template (see Templates) onto the wrong side of the leather with a leather marker pen, then cut out.

2. Apply glue (see Techniques: Gluing) around the bottom curved edge of both pieces (d) and press together when tacky.

3. Use a sewing machine to stitch the glued edge, remembering to reverse stitch at each end (e). See Techniques: Machine Sewing.

4. Mark the hole from the template on the full circle only and punch out. Place the earphones inside the pouch and fold the flap over. Use the existing hole to mark the position for the second hole and punch out (f).

5. Add the female part of the press fastener to the front of the case (g), and the male part to the flap (h). See Techniques: Inserting Fastenings.

GLASSES CASE

This project uses thicker, more rigid leather to create a gently curved case in which to safely store your reading glasses. Make a case for your sunglasses too – they'll thank you for it!

Hand stitched

20 x 20cm (7 7/8 x 7 7/8in) piece of vegetable-tanned leather, 2–3mm thick

You will need:

• Pricking iron 6mm (¼in) spacing

Finished size:

18 x 9cm (7 1/8 x 3½in) or adjust size to fit glasses

1. Cut out (a):

• One square of leather 18 x 18cm (7 1/8 x 7 1/8in), or adjust size to fit glasses. Make a curved guide using strong card and the corner template (see Templates). Use this template to cut the rounded corners (see Techniques: Rounding Off Ends).

2. Decide which side of the case will be the opening. Apply contact adhesive around the wrong side of the other three sides of the leather, then carefully press these sides together and secure with bulldog clips (b).

3. Starting 3cm (1 1/8in) down from the opening, use a ruler and awl to score a border 5mm (¼in) in from the edge all around the two front edges of the case to be stitched (c).

4. Punch the holes along the line using the pricking iron and mallet, making sure the prongs have gone all the way through the leather. Gently rock the iron forward and back to pull out the prongs (see Techniques: Scoring & Punching). Push the awl through the holes to open them up a little to make stitching easier (d).

5. Cut a piece of your chosen thread four times longer than the area to be stitched (see Techniques: Hand Stitching) and thread a needle onto each end pulling the thread through by approximately 10cm (4in) (e).

6. Set up your lacing pony and clamp the case in place with top side on the left. Saddle stitch along the sides (f), then trim and burn the ends of the thread (g).

7. Rub beeswax along the edge of the case and polish with a burnisher until the edge is smooth and rounded (see Techniques: Surface Treatments) (h).

PASSPORT HOLDER

A must-have addition to your travel wardrobe, this cover will help protect your passport and keep your documents safe when you go away. Contrasting coloured thread adds interest to a simple shape.

Hand stitched

35 x 25cm (13¾ x 9 7/8in) piece of vegetable-tanned leather, 1.2–2mm thick

You will need:

• Pricking iron 6mm (¼in) spacing

Finished size:

15 x 10.5cm (5 7/8 x 4 1/8in)

1. Cut out as follows (a):

• Two rectangles of leather each 15 x 21cm (5 7/8 x 8¼in).

• Cut one of these pieces into three smaller rectangles: two rectangles 6 x 15cm (2 3/8 x 5 7/8in) each, and one rectangle 9 x 15cm (3½ x 5 7/8in)

2. Lay one of the 6 x 15cm (2 3/8 x 5 7/8in) pieces on top of the 9 x 15cm (3½ x 5 7/8in) piece, right side up. Line up the two longer edges and mark where the smaller piece ends on the larger piece. Scratch away the edge of the leather on the larger piece to create a 'key', staying within the area covered by the smaller piece (b). See Techniques: Gluing.

3. On the wrong side, apply glue to the two short sides and one long side of the 6 x 15cm (2 3/8 x 5 7/8in) piece. On the right side apply glue to the scratched area of the 9 x 15cm (3½ x 5 7/8in) piece (c). Allow to go tacky, then press together.

4. Measure the long side of the top piece of leather to find the centre (d). Mark five stitches in from the open edge for stitching.

5. With the pricking iron, punch six holes through both layers of leather and saddle stitch (e). As this is a short section, you can reverse all the way back to the beginning (rather than just two stitches) for a more even looking finish.

6. On the wrong side, glue along the three edges to be stitched on both end-pieces of leather. Do the same on the corresponding edges of the 15 x 21cm (5 7/8 x 8¼in) cover piece (f). Allow to dry, then press together (g).

7. On the outside of the cover, mark a guideline using the awl and ruler 5mm (¼in) from the edge. Punch holes using a 6mm (¼in) pricking iron (see Techniques: Scoring & Punching) (h).

8. Saddle stitch all the way round (see Techniques: Hand Stitching). You will need a very long piece of thread – approximately 270cm (106¼in) – so it may be awkward to sew until you have covered the first half. The alternative is to complete the stitching in two halves, with a join halfway along. If you do sew it in two halves, make sure the threads are joined on the back or on a corner to help disguise it.

9. Use a sharp scalpel to trim away the tip of the corners. Be careful to keep the blade away from the stitching, cutting no closer than 2mm (1/8in) away from the stitched line (i).

10. Finish off the edges by burnishing them if you so wish (see Techniques: Surface Treatments).

(Continues…)

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Excerpted from "Sew Luxe Leather"
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Copyright © 2018 Rosanna Gethin.
Excerpted by permission of F+W Media, Inc..
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Excerpts are provided by Dial-A-Book Inc. solely for the personal use of visitors to this web site.

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Table of Contents

Introduction 4

All About Leather 5

Tool Box 8

Projects

Tassel Keyring 14

Fringed Bookmark 18

Bold Cuffs 22

Card Holder 26

Luggage Tag 30

Earphone Holders 34

Glasses Case 38

Passport Holder 42

Zipper Purse 46

Women's Wallet 50

Men's Wallet 56

Handy Purses 62

Tablet Case 68

Laptop Case 72

Foldover Bag 76

Wash Bag 82

Cross-Body Bag 88

Envelope Clutch 94

Upcycled Tote 98

Techniques

Cutting 106

Rounding Off Ends 107

Paring (Skiving) 108

Scoring & Punching 109

Gluing 110

Hand Stitching 111

Machine Sewing 112

Inserting Fastenings 112

Inserting a Zipper 114

Surface Treatments 116

Embossing 117

Templates 118

Resources 125

About the Author 126

Acknowledgments 126

Index 127