Saint-Germain-des-Pres: Paris's Rebel Quarter

by John Baxter

Overview

The award-winning chronicler of life in Paris reveals the secrets of his home quarter, Saint-Germain-des-Pres

A unique blend of history, memoir, and sightseeing essentials, Saint-Germain-des-Pres is a captivating "narrative guidebook" to one of Paris's iconic quarters by John Baxter, bestselling author of The Most Beautiful Walk in the World.

Occupying less than a square mile along Paris's Left Bank, Saint-Germain-des-Pres, originally an independent village centered around the medieval abbey that lends the quarter its name, has for centuries been home to rebels of all stripes. Within its boundaries, the French Revolution was plotted, the guillotine invented, and in 1968 students revolted and clashed with police. Philosopher Descartes is buried here (sans skull), while Sartre, Camus, and de Beauvoir birthed existentialism around the tables of the legendary Cafe de Flore. Saint-Germain sheltered and inspired such artistic rebels as Picasso, Rimbaud, Hemingway, and scores of jazz musicians. Today, the neighborhood, with its cobblestone streets, iconic cafes, and unique shopping destinations, is one of Paris's premier tourist attractions. And yet it retains its rebel soul—if you know where to look.

In this first book in his "Great Parisian Neighborhoods" series, Baxter, an expat who has called Saint-Germain home for more than two decades, guides readers on an off-the-beaten-path journey through the quarter's history, landmarks, and delights.

Product Details

ISBN-13:	9780062431905
Publisher:	HarperCollins
Publication date:	11/08/2016
Series:	Great Parisian Neighborhoods
Pages:	256
Sales rank:	1,132,884
Product dimensions:	4.90(w) x 7.00(h) x 0.80(d)

About the Author

John Baxter has lived in Paris for more than twenty years. He is the author of four acclaimed memoirs about his life in France: The Perfect Meal: In Search of the Lost Tastes of France; The Most Beautiful Walk in the World: A Pedestrian in Paris; Immoveable Feast: A Paris Christmas; and We'll Always Have Paris: Sex and Love in the City of Light. Baxter, who gives literary walking tours through Paris, is also a film critic and biographer whose subjects have included the directors Fellini, Kubrick, Woody Allen, and most recently, Josef von Sternberg. Born in Australia, he lives with his wife and daughter in the Saint-Germain-des-Prés neighborhood, in the same building Sylvia Beach called home.

Editorial Reviews

John Baxter and his incredible knowledge made me feel like I was walking through history. Anyone who reads this book will experience the artists, writers, and beauty of Paris come to life as if they were standing on the streets of St. Germain themselves.” — Maria Bello, actress and author of Whatever... Love is Love

“Another delightful salute to Paris. ... Whether you’re planning your first trip to Paris or absolutely have to stop in Paris on your way anywhere, this book, in addition to the author’s previous guides, is essential.” — Kirkus Reviews (starred review)

“Saint-Germain-des-Prés embodies so much of what makes Paris special. ... It’s precisely this fascinating history that John Baxter has brought to life. ... Baxter is without question a good man to tell the story of one of the City of Light’s most iconic quarters.” — World Traveller

“If you want to know what has made Saint-Germain-des-Prés so special, read this captivating account. As only a long-term resident can, John Baxter offers the reader improbable connections that surprise, amuse, and magically cohere into the story of a Paris quartier like no other.” — Thad Carhart, author of The Piano Shop on the Left Bank

“Saint-Germain’s story, in Baxter’s able hands, spans centuries and often hops its own borders. Readers will surely enjoy the leaps, for the destination here really is the diversion... and will count themselves lucky to be in the company of such an engaging Paris pro.” — Booklist

From the Publisher

Saint-Germain’s story, in Baxter’s able hands, spans centuries and often hops its own borders. Readers will surely enjoy the leaps, for the destination here really is the diversion... and will count themselves lucky to be in the company of such an engaging Paris pro.

Booklist

If you want to know what has made Saint-Germain-des-Prés so special, read this captivating account. As only a long-term resident can, John Baxter offers the reader improbable connections that surprise, amuse, and magically cohere into the story of a Paris quartier like no other.

Thad Carhart

Saint-Germain-des-Prés embodies so much of what makes Paris special. ... It’s precisely this fascinating history that John Baxter has brought to life. ... Baxter is without question a good man to tell the story of one of the City of Light’s most iconic quarters.

World Traveller

John Baxter and his incredible knowledge made me feel like I was walking through history. Anyone who reads this book will experience the artists, writers, and beauty of Paris come to life as if they were standing on the streets of St. Germain themselves.

Maria Bello

Saint-Germain’s story, in Baxter’s able hands, spans centuries and often hops its own borders. Readers will surely enjoy the leaps, for the destination here really is the diversion... and will count themselves lucky to be in the company of such an engaging Paris pro.

Booklist

★ 2016-08-10
Baxter (Hemingway's Paris: A User's Guide, 2016, etc.) provides another delightful salute to Paris.Born in Australia, the author first traveled to Paris in 1969. Now married with a daughter, he lives in Saint-Germain-des-Prés village. The area managed to avoid much of Baron Haussmann’s destructive urban renewal, which leaves it with lots of quaint corners filled with shops and fascinating history. As a Paris walking guide, the author delights with anecdotes both historical and current. He takes us through the Cour de Rohan and the Cour du Commerce Saint-André, making even seasoned travelers feel as if no one else knew of their existence. Baxter notes that publisher Jean-Paul Marat’s print shop was at No. 8, while at No. 6, Dr. Joseph-Ignace Guillotin perfected his killing device, “on which hundreds would die until France abandoned capital punishment in 1981.” Among other highlights in the area are chocolatier Debauve, which embossed Marie Antoinette’s sweets with gold; the 18th-century restaurant and salon Privés La Pérouse; Miss Betty’s Brothel; and the unnamed “beat hotel” that “attracted some significant literary figures of the postwar era.” The author doesn’t just note the best places to eat; he differentiates between a brasserie and a bistro and informs us what to eat where. For fans of the bohemian life and 1920s lost generation stars, there are numerous spots to seek out, including the trails of stars like Hemingway, Gertrude Stein, Isadora Duncan, and her even stranger brother, Raymond. As in previous books, the author makes readers feel as they are returning to a familiar, comfortable spot in the company of good friends. Whether you’re planning your first trip to Paris or absolutely have to stop in Paris on your way anywhere, this book, in addition to the author’s previous guides, is essential.

Kirkus Reviews