Table of Contents
Acknowledgments xiv
Introduction xv
Climbing History xv
Geology and Geography xvi
Climbing Dangers and Safety xvii
Objective Dangers xix
Access and Ethical Considerations xxi
Using This Guide xxv
Rating System xxvi
Desert Climbing Rack xxviii
Map Legend xxix
Key to Topo Drawings xxx
Moab Area 1
1 Arches National Park 1
The Pickle 6
The Three Penguins 8
Zippy Zebra Wall 10
The Organ 12
Tower of Babel 14
Park Avenue 15
The Three Gossips 16
Argon Tower 20
Sheep Rock 22
The Great Wall 24
The Phallus 25
The Testes 26
Bubo 26
Off Balanced Rock 27
Devil's Golfball 28
Owl Rock 29
Bullwinkle Tower 30
Elephant Butte 31
Tonka Tower 32
Devil Dog Spire 33
Dark Angel 34
2 Potash Road 35
The King's Hand 37
Wall Street 38
3 Long Canyon 58
The Shipyard 59
Maverick Buttress 61
4 Island in the Sky 65
Monster Tower and Washer Woman 68
Monument Basin 74
Taylor Canyon Area 79
5 Kane Springs Canyon 86
The Tombstones 88
Ice Cream Parlor 90
Space Tower 94
Predator Tower 94
Happy Turk 95
6 US 191 North 96
Big Cave Valley 96
7 Tusher Canyon 98
House of Putterman 98
Neighbor of Putterman 102
8 The Needles and Lost World Butte 104
Tombstone Butte 106
The Sphinx 108
Canyon Point Butte 109
Lost World Butte 110
9 Sunshine Wall 111
Baker Slab 112
Science Friction Slab 113
Falcon Face 114
Tezcatlipoca 115
10 River Road Crags 116
The Sorcerer and Sorcerer's Apprentice 118
River Road Dihedrals 121
Anasazi Buttress 122
The Lighthouse 124
Dolomite Spire 128
Big Bend Bouldering Area 130
11 Castle Valley 131
Castleton Tower 135
The Rectory 144
The Priest 147
Sister Superior 149
12 Fisher Towers 151
Carson's Tower 155
Lizard Rock 156
Dock Rock 157
Great Googly Moogly 157
Ancient Art 158
The Cobra 160
Kingfisher 162
Cottontail Tower 164
Echo Tower 165
The Titan 167
The Oracle 168
13 US 191 South 172
Looking Glass Rock 172
King Arthur's Seat 174
Southeast Utah 176
14 Indian Creek Canyon 176
Friction Slab 181
Turner Prize Spire 182
Blue Gramma Cliff 183
Desert Siren 185
Orion's Bow 186
Supercrack Buttress 186
Donnelly Canyon 192
Battle of the Bulge Buttress 199
Fringe of Death Canyon 205
Pistol Whipped Wall 206
15 Bridger Jack Spires and Sixshooter Peaks 210
Thumbelina 213
Sparkling Touch 213
Easter Island 214
Sunflower Tower 214
Hummingbird Spire 215
King of Pain 215
North Sixshooter Peak 217
South Sixshooter Peak 221
16 Mexican Hat 223
Central Utah 225
17 San Rafael Swell 225
Dylan Wall 229
The Lightbulb 233
Outhouse Tower 234
Bottleneck Peak 235
San Rafael Reef Slabs 237
Three Finger Canyon 248
18 Capitol Reef National Park 254
Cohab Canyon 257
Grand Wash 257
19 Spring Canyon Crag 262
Volkswagen Wall 264
Boulder Canyon Wall 266
20 Maple Canyon 268
Box Canyon 271
The Frontera 280
Cabbage Wall 281
The Bridge Area 282
Campground Area 283
Left Fork Canyon 289
Right Fork 299
Southwest Utah 316
21 Zion National Park 316
Mount Spry 322
Practice Cliffs 324
West of the River Cliff 326
Carbuncle Buttress 328
The Spearhead 330
Red Arch Mountain 333
Great White Throne Base 333
The Organ 339
Cerberus Gendarme 340
Cerberus Gendarme Base 343
Angels Landing 346
Moonlight Buttress 348
Leaning Wall 352
Temple of Sinawava 355
Pine Creek Canyon 357
Ataxia Tower 358
Aries Butte 360
Kolob Canyons 361
South Fork Canyon 368
22 St. George Area Crags 373
Chuckawalla Wall 378
Snow Canyon State Park 381
Crawdad Canyon Climbing Park 386
Welcome Springs 408
Black and Tan and Kelly's Rock 412
Northern Utah 424
23 Big Cottonwood Canyon 424
Dogwood Crag 427
Dead Snag Crag 430
Storm Mountain Island 432
S-Curve Crags 436
The Millstone 440
24 Little Cottonwood Canyon 445
Crescent Crack Buttress 448
The Fin 455
The Thumb 457
Kermit's Wall 461
Green Adjective Gully 463
Gate Buttress 471
Lisa Falls 482
25 Middle Bell Tower 484
26 American Fork Canyon 488
Juniper Wall 492
Hard Wall 494
Hell Area 494
The Membrane 502
Isolation Wall 504
The Gray Cliffs 504
Hard Rock 506
White Wave Wall 512
Escape Buttress 514
Division Wall 516
27 Uinta Mountains 520
Good Medicine Wall 523
Last Stand Wall 529
Warrior Wall 530
Assassin Wall 534
28 Logan Canyon 535
Fucoidal Quartzite Crags 538
China Wall and China Cave 542
Crag 385 549
Appendix A Further Reading 553
Appendix B Rating System Comparison Chart 555
Appendix C Climbing Shops, Gyms, and Guide Services 556
Appendix D Utah Hospitals and Medical Services 560
Index 562
About the Author 575