Rock Climbing New England: A Guide to More Than 900 Routes

by Stewart M. Green

Overview

New England is one of the country's most spectacular rock climbing arenas. The 66,608-square-mile region is studded with intimate crags, sweeping walls, compact sea cliffs, towering ledges, and spectacular overhangs. This full-color, revised edition of Rock Climbing New England describes fifteen of the region's best climbing areas in detail. Your choices of rocks and routes include two of the country's premier traditional crags, Cathedral and Whitehorse Ledges in New Hampshire; New England's biggest rock face, Cannon Cliff in New Hampshire; and stunning sea cliff routes at Maine's Acadia National Park and at Rhode Island's Fort Wetherill State Park. Other superb selections include urban cragging at Crow Hill near Boston, the traprock cliffs of Ragged Mountain in Connecticut, and the granite slabs of Wheeler Mountain in Vermont. Inside you will also discover: climbing history of each site, pitch-by-pitch written descriptions, detailed topos and clear overview photos, and insider tips to remote climbing areas waiting to be explored. Rock Climbing New England, 2nd edition is an indispensable resource for anyone seeking adventure in this remarkable region.

Product Details

ISBN-13:	9780762790067
Publisher:	Rowman & Littlefield Publishers, Inc.
Publication date:	06/20/2015
Series:	Regional Rock Climbing Series
Edition description:	Second Edition
Pages:	464
Sales rank:	1,074,322
Product dimensions:	6.00(w) x 9.30(h) x 1.10(d)

About the Author

Stewart Green is a freelance photographer and writer who has been climbing in the Utah desert for more than three decades. He has been one of America’s top climbing and adventure photographers for over twenty‑five years, and his photographs have appeared in many publications and books including Climbing, Rock and Ice, Outside, National Motorist, On The Edge, Alp, Sierra, and many others. He is also the author and photographer of many books for FalconGuides and Globe Pequot Press.

Table of Contents

Acknowledgments ix

Introduction x

Climbing History xi

Geology and Geography xiv

Climbing Dangers and Safety xv

Objective Dangers xvii

Access and Environmental Considerations xviii

Climbing Ethics xx

Key to Topo Drawings xxii

Map Legend/Topo Legend xxiii

New Hampshire 1

Cathedral Ledge 1

Whitehorse Ledge 33

Mount Washington Valley Cliffs 55

Humphrey's Ledge 55

White's Ledge 56

Pick of the Litter Cliff 58

Square Ledge (Pinkham Notch) 58

Mount Washington 60

Wild River 62

Sundown Ledge 71

Kancaniagus Highway Cliffs 84

Woodchuck Ledge 84

Crag Y 84

Found Ledge 86

Lost Ledge 86

Sundown Ledge 87

Painted Walls 87

Rainbow Slabs 87

Crack in the Wood? 90

Table Mountain Slab 90

Hobbitland 91

Green's Cliff 91

Square Ledge 91

White Ledge 94

Crawford Notch Cliffs 97

Mount Willard 97

Elephant's Head 101

Cannon Cliff 103

Franconia Notch Cliffs 126

Echo Crag 126

The Eaglet 126

Artist's Bluff 127

Lincoln Crag 129

Owl's Head Cliff 130

Rumney 137

Parking Lot Wall 144

New Wave Wall 162

The 5.8 Crag 167

Monsters from Id Crag 170

Lower Darth Vader 174

Bonsai 175

Waimea 178

Long Stack Precipice 188

Rock Rimmon 192

Pawtuckaway State Park 193

Boulder Natural Area 209

Devil's Den 209

Maine 211

Acadia National Park 211

South Wall (aka The Precipice) 217

Otter Cliff 225

South Bubble 234

Clifton Crags 236

Eagle Bluff 240

Fletcher's Bluff 248

Camden Hills State Park 254

Mount Katahdin 268

Shagg Crag 271

Other Maine Climbing Areas 284

Twitchell Pond Crag 284

Hawk Mountain and Bear Mountain 287

Tumbledown Mountain 288

Jockey Cap 289

Shell Pond Chris 290

Bucks Ledge 290

Gilead Rest Area 290

Tumbledown Dick 291

Brimstone Ledge 291

Vermont 292

Wheeler Mountain 292

Smugglers Notch 296

Bolton 299

Deer Leap Rock 301

Massachusetts 305

Quincy Quarries 305

Granite Rail Quarry 309

Little Granite Rail Quarry 323

Hammond Pond 331

Crow Hill 339

Rose Ledge and Chapel Ledge 353

Rose Ledge 355

Chapel Ledge 361

Climbing Areas near Rose Ledge 366

Parley Ledge 366

Mormon Hollow 366

Connecticut 367

Traprock Crags 367

Ragged Mountain 373

Cathole Pass (aka Washington's Head) 384

East Peak-Merimaee race 389

East Peak Amphitheater 393

Chatfield Hollow State Park 395

Rhode Island 406

Lincoln Woods State Park 406

Snake Den State Park 409

Pettaquamscutt Rock 410

Appendix A Further Reading 412

Appendix B Route Ratings Comparison Chart 413

Appendix C Mountains Shops, Climbing Gyms, and Guide Services 414

Route Name index 419

Rated Route Index 427

About the Author 439