Umbria, "the green heart of Italy," may not completely match Tuscany's geological variation, but it comes close. This small, hilly and fairly untouched region occupying Italy's core (Narni is the country's geographical center) is crammed full of walking, rafting, caving, hang-gliding and climbing opportunities, not to mention a rich artistic and architectural heritage left over the centuries by Etruscans, Umbrians, Romans and then by scholarly monks. Hikers seek out the Apennines, which in Umbria's eastern margins, become more rugged and soar to great heights in the savage peaks of the Monti Sibillini. Close by lie Piano Grande's prairie-like expanse, and the plush green of the Valnerina, home to the Marmore Falls (the highest in the country) and an eerie labyrinth of canyons cut out over centuries by the Nera River. Water sports are best at Lake Trasimeno, the largest body of water on the Italian peninsula. The city of Perugia is the capital of the province named after it, as well as the capital city of the entire region of Umbria. To its west is Lago Trasimeno and to its north the Alta Valle del Tevere (Upper Tiber Valley), an untouched land of abbeys and monasteries and flower- and wildlife-filled hills. Set in the hills 500 m (1,617 feet) above the Tiber Valley, Perugia has beautiful views over the lush Umbrian countryside that surrounds the capital city. From its perfectly preserved travertine walls, you can see Lago Trasimeno to the west and, on a clear day, Gubbio and Monte Cucco to the northeast and Monte Subasio and the Apennine chain to the east. This guide details all you need to know about Perugia and Northern Umbria, what to see and do, where to stay, the best restaurants, and more.
