Table of Contents
Introduction 1
How to use this book 2
1 Getting Started 4
Equipment 4
Measurements 6
Taking measurements 8
Metric measurements for cutting basic patterns 10
Imperial measurements for cutting basic patterns 11
2 Cutting techniques 12
Drafting the pattern 12
Cutting out the garment 13
Constructing the toile 14
Brief notes on construction 15
Some basic cutting techniques 16
Calculating circles and sleeve heads 22
3 Basic patterns 24
Basic pattern for upper body 24
Basic straight sleeve 28
Basic two-piece sleeve 28
Basic trousers pattern 32
4 Cutting basic patterns to individual measurements 37
Altering simple upper body patterns 38
Making minor alterations when drafting the basic block 40
Lengthening and shortening sleeves 46
Cutting patterns to individual measurements - trousers 48
Alterations for prominent and flat seats 50
Alterations for a beer belly 52
5 16th-century peasant costume 54
Materials and sewing techniques for 16th-century peasant costume 55
Peasant doublets and jerkins 58
Sleeves for peasant doublets 62
Basic peasant coat 64
Peasant hose 67
Footed hose 72
Basic codpiece 74
6 Fashionable costume 1530-1666 76
Basic doublet/jerkin 82
Basic period sleeve 84
Gowns 86
Collar for basic gown 88
Flared gown with yoke 90
Pleated gown with yoke 92
Sleeves for gowns 94
Cotes 98
Doublets and jerkins 100
Skirts for doublets and jerkins 102
Stand collar 104
Trunk hose and breeches 105
Trunk-hose with panes 108
Spanish codpiece 112
Simple codpiece 114
Slops 116
Venetian breeches 122
High-waisted doublet 124
The last phase of the doublet 128
Mid-17th-century breeches 130
Openbreeches 132
Petticoat breeches with flounces 134
7 The Coat 136
Basic coat blocks 140
Early coat 144
Developments in the cut of 18th-century coats 150
Early 18th-century fashionable coat 151
1720s coat 160
Coats in the second half of the 18th century 164
Waistcoats in the second half of the 18th century 172
18th-century breeches 173
8 Non-fashionable costume 17th-19th centuries 176
Simple buff coat 178
Non-fashionable breeches with full falls 180
Working man's double-breasted short coat 184
Working man's single-breasted jacket 188
Working man's single-breasted waistcoat 192
Non-fashionable coat variations 196
9 Shirts 200
Early working men's shirts 202
Later working men's shirts 202
Basic shirt pattern 202
Mid- 19th- Century fashionable shirt 206
10 Two miscellaneous patterns 211
Basic cloaks 212
Simple trousers 214
Source material 217
Bibliography 219
Illustration credits 220
