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Overview
• 12+ designs with accessories ranging from fancy to out-and-about cool following today's fashion-savvy girl through a busy week!
• Great for all skill levels with information on sewing basics and tips on using contemporary fabrics including metallic transfers, sewing with knits, and more.
My Doll, My Style is authored Anna Allen is the owner and designer of Doll It Up, a popular website dedicated to 18-doll clothes patterns and accessories. Doll It Up has established its brand, focusing on well-fitting doll clothes, simple designs for beginner/intermediate sewing, styles inspired by current fashion, and beautiful photography.
Product Details
| ISBN-13: | 9781440248269 |
|---|---|
| Publisher: | Penguin Publishing Group |
| Publication date: | 06/26/2018 |
| Pages: | 128 |
| Product dimensions: | 8.40(w) x 10.30(h) x 0.40(d) |
Read an Excerpt
CHAPTER 1
Sewing Small Fashion
THERE ARE THREE KEY COMPONENTS to creating beautiful, fashionable, and easy-to-sew doll clothes. First, it's all about the fabric when sewing fashion. The Fabric Notes section in this chapter and accompanying sidebars throughout the book are packed with practical tips that will help you pick fabulous fabric for each project. Second is accurate cutting. You'll love the quick and precise methods in the Cutting Accurately section in this chapter. Third is sewing techniques.
In this chapter, you'll find tips for sewing knit and sequin fabrics. Sometimes people avoid sewing with these fabrics because they are too intimidated. I demystify sewing with these fabrics, and you will be delighted and empowered by the beautiful doll clothes you can make yourself! The chapter also includes basic finishing techniques for the projects in this book, including instructions for hems, adding a knit waistband, and sewing a Velcro closure. Each pattern will refer back to the Finishing Techniques section when applicable, and there you will find the specific tips and directions you need.
Getting Started
Tools and supplies
Here you will find the best tools for cutting out patterns quickly and accurately (see Cutting Accurately in this chapter for detailed directions), as well as the basic supplies and materials to complete the projects in this book. Take a look through the lists before starting a project to gather everything you will need for sewing and transferring pattern markings.
FASHION FIT
Fit is an important part of fashion, so I draft patterns with care to get a great fit. Let's go over a few details for how to get the best fit for your doll clothes.
The patterns and accessories in this book are designed for 18" (45.5 cm) play dolls. Because 18" (45.5 cm) dolls are made by a variety of companies, their body measurements and construction can vary by brand. Some dolls have fabric torsos, for example, while others are all vinyl. I fit the patterns in this book for a doll with a fabric torso. But even measurements for dolls with fabric torsos from the same company can vary because they are stuffed slightly differently. For your convenience, I've included a range of doll measurements so you can compare them with your particular 18" (45.5 cm) doll to get an idea of fit. Many of these patterns are sewn with knit fabric, which will be more flexible and forgiving with differences in size. For an 18" (45.5 cm) doll with a slim waist, you can make general adjustments by sewing the side seams with a larger seam allowance.
Fabric Notes
CHOOSING FABRIC
This section will help you confidently pick fabric for each project. Fabric has different properties and features. I keep this in mind when designing patterns and count on fabric to behave a certain way for a good fit. For each pattern in this book, I include suggestions for the type of fabric to use — either woven or knit — and the suggested weight. Patterns designed for knit fabrics also touch on stretch direction (the direction the fabric stretches) and stretch amount (how much a fabric will stretch). Before buying fabric, feel the weight and stretch qualities. This hands-on approach will give you the information you need to help you choose a great fabric for the project.
Fabric Type
Is your fabric a woven or a knit? Here are some general characteristics to keep in mind.
Wovens: Stretch on the bias with no horizontal or vertical stretch; edges fray.
Knits: Have either horizontal stretch or both horizontal and vertical stretch with low to no-fray edges.
Fabric Weight
The weight or thickness of the fabric can range from a lightweight lace to a medium-weight knit or a heavyweight denim.
STRETCH DIRECTION
For this book, stretch direction refers to the direction knit fabric stretches. Knowing the stretch direction will help you line up the pattern on the fabric correctly. Knit fabrics can sometimes seem to stretch every which way. To orient yourself to the fabric and its properties, it helps to figure out the main stretch direction as well as the secondary stretch direction.
Main Stretch Direction
The main stretch direction is the direction in which the fabric has the most stretch. It is typically perpendicular to the selvedge (also referred to as stretching across the grain). This is the stretch direction marked on the pattern pieces indicating how to orient the pattern piece with the fabric. See the Knit Fabric Diagram on the Fabric Notes page for reference.
Secondary Stretch Direction
The secondary stretch is parallel to the selvedge and also referred to as stretching with the grain. A knit may or may not have a secondary stretch.
2-Way Stretch or 4-Way Stretch
A combination of the main stretch direction and the secondary stretch direction is referred to as a 2-way stretch or a 4-way stretch.
2-Way Stretch
Main: Stretches perpendicular to the selvedge.
Secondary: Has very little to no stretch parallel to the selvedge.
4-Way Stretch
Main: Stretches perpendicular to the selvedge.
Secondary: Stretches parallel to the selvedge in a similar amount to the main stretch direction.
STRETCH AMOUNT
Another aspect of knit fabric is how much it stretches. This is often referred to as the stretch percentage. To simplify, I will divide stretch into three categories: low, moderate, and super. Each knit project in this book calls for a minimum stretch. For example, if a pattern calls for low stretch percentage, then that pattern can be sewn in a range of fabrics from a minimum, low-stretch knit to the highest super-stretch knit.
Low stretch: 10-20%
Moderate stretch: 25-40%
Super stretch: 50-100%
Determining Stretch
Use the stretch guide in the downloadable PDF to determine a fabric's stretch category (find it here: www.quiltingcompany.com/MyDollMyStyleTemplates). To do so:
1 First, measure the main stretch direction. Fold a 10" (25.5 cm) portion of fabric along the main stretch direction.
2 Line up the fabric with the dots on the stretch guide, then pinch the fold between your thumb and fingers at each dot.
3 Hold the fabric steady at the left dot, then stretch the fabric to the right beyond the second dot until you feel a fi rm resistance. This is the point on the guide that will indicate what stretch percentage or stretch category the knit fabric has.
4 Measure the secondary stretch direction. Refold a 10" (25.5 cm) portion of fabric in half along the secondary stretch direction.
5 Repeat steps 2 and 3 to determine the stretch percentage or stretch category for the secondary stretch direction.
Note: If a fabric stretches to an area between categories, then it is in the preceding category. For example, if the fabric stretches just short of the super-stretch section, that fabric is considered moderate stretch.
Stretch Recovery
It is important to choose fabric with good stretch recovery. Stretch recovery refers to a knit fabric's ability to return to the original shape after it is stretched. Poor stretch recovery leaves fabric distorted with stretched-out seams and misshapen projects. With good stretch recovery, fabric returns to the shape or close to the same shape it was in before you stretched it.
Cutting Accurately
Doll clothes are small, so accurately cutting the patterns out of fabric is important for a good fit. With that in mind, here are two methods for cutting out doll clothes patterns. Both begin with ironing the fabric so you start with a nice smooth surface.
ROTARY-CUTTER METHOD
This method for cutting out pattern pieces is quick and easy! You will need a rotary cutter and a self-healing mat. Start with the 28 mm rotary cutter.
(The 18 mm rotary cutter is great for tight curves and turns.) For safety, rotary cutters are not recommended for kids.
Materials
Fabric for your project
1 Lay out your fabric in a single layer or folded, if needed, on a self-healing mat.
2 Position the pattern piece on the fabric, then set pattern weights in the corners of the pattern and across the middle to hold it in place.
3 Hold the pattern with one hand, while cutting around the pattern with a rotary cutter (Figure 1).
SCISSORS AND FREEZER-PAPER METHOD
For this method, print the pattern pieces onto freezer paper, then cut them out and temporarily adhere them to the fabric with a hot iron. It is easiest to work with a single layer of fabric, so print off multiple pattern pieces when the pattern says "cut 2."
Note: This method will only work on fabric that can be ironed on high heat. Test your fabric first.
Materials
Freezer paper Clear tape Fabric scissors and paper-cutting scissors Iron and ironing board Pattern printed onto paper (uncut)
1 Cut freezer paper down to size so that it will cover the patterns that are printed on the sheets of paper. Tape the freezer paper, shiny side down, over the printed copy of the pattern. Run the paper through your printer, printing the pattern onto the freezer paper.
2 Remove the tape and cut out the pattern pieces.
3 On an ironing board, arrange the freezer-paper patterns, shiny side down, on the fabric. Using a high setting, iron the freezer-paper pattern pieces to the fabric for 10–15 seconds per section. Let the fabric and freezer paper cool, then test a corner of the freezer paper to make sure the pattern adhered (Figure 2).
4 Cut out fabric pattern pieces, then peel off freezer paper (Figure 3).
Transferring Pattern Markings
Use these directions to transfer pattern markings, including notches, dots, and stitch lines, to cut out fabric easily and accurately. A disappearing-ink fabric marker is my go-to for marking because it is gentle on knits and specialty fabrics. A light-colored water-soluble marking pencil is an option for dark fabrics. The marks from tracing paper, marking pencils, and disappearing-ink fabric markers come off easily with just a little water. For specialty fabric that is hard to mark, use a pin in the fabric at each dot or notch.
Take care when arranging pattern pieces that are cut on folded fabric, so the orientation is correct.
Materials
Pins Scissors Disappearing-ink fabric marker Tracing wheel Tracing paper Water-soluble marking pencil (optional)
DOTS
Place a finger on the dot on the paper pattern. (Your finger will provide counterpressure while you mark the dot.) For a single layer of fabric, lift up the edge of the paper and place the disappearing-ink fabric marker between the paper pattern and the fabric. For a double layer of fabric, place the marker between the layers of fabric. Mark a dot with the tip of the marker (Figure 1).
NOTCHES
After the pattern piece is cut out of fabric, leave the pattern weights on the paper pattern to mark the notches. Place a finger on the paper pattern at the point of the notch. Lift up the edge of the paper just enough so the fabric marker can fit between the paper pattern and the fabric, then mark 1" (6 mm) line (shown as a triangle in the illustrations above) from the notch point toward the edge of the fabric (refer to Figure 1 and Figure 2).
STITCH LINES
For best results, follow the instructions for your tracing paper. To transfer a specific stitch line, place the tracing paper between the paper pattern and a single layer of fabric with the colored side facing the fabric. Trace the stitch line on to the pattern with a tracing wheel (Figure 2).
Sewing with Knits and Sequin Fabrics
SEWING WITH KNITS
Use these tips to make sewing with knit fabrics easier and get better results.
* Take a test run. A simple stitch test on a knit fabric can help you understand how the fabric will behave and give you clues about any adjustments that you may need to make to have success.
* Use a ballpoint/jersey needle (see Tools and Supplies). The shape of the tip lets it pass through the loops in knit fabrics without breaking the fibers. It will also help with skipped stitches, a common struggle when sewing knits.
* If a project calls for a double needle, test it on a scrap of fabric first. You may need to increase the thread tension a bit (this is common). If you are using the double needle to finish a hem, check the distance the stitches are from the edge. Go slowly. It can help you get a better finish. Use the bobbin for the second matching thread and a different bobbin for the under thread. (For more tips, see Sewing Hems.)
* To prevent fabric from being pushed into the needle plate, hold the tail threads when you start stitching. Pull the threads as you stitch.
* Lengthen stitches. This small adjustment can make a big difference when stitching with knits.
* Topstitch with a long, narrow zigzag stitch in areas that need minimal stretch. This stitch is more subtle than a regular zigzag stitch. (Unless your project needs a lot of stretch.)
* Use a regular zigzag stitch on the inside of the project where it needs the most stretch.
* Press fabric. Following the heat settings for your chosen fabric, press the seam lines to flatten and shrink down the area. This can make a huge difference in how a seam sits.
* Unfinished edges are a quick way to finish a project and give it a trendy look. Before leaving a hem unfinished, test how much the cut edge of the fabric curls. Minimal curl is recommended for leaving the edges unfinished on projects. The knit should also be no-fray on the edges.
* Try a walking foot on your sewing machine. It helps move fabric through your machine evenly and smoothly and makes a huge difference with minimal investment. Take note, it is not a 1" (6 mm) foot, so you will need to check to make sure you are sewing with the correct seam allowances. Don't use a walking foot when sewing with a double needle as it may cause your needle to break.
SEWING SEQUIN FABRIC
There are a variety of sequin fabrics. For the projects in this book, I recommend using sequin fabric on a knit or netting fabric backing with sequins that are sewn on the fabric, not glued. The sequins are attached to the fabric with the thread that passes through the hole one to three times. They can be multiple sizes and shapes.
Cutting Sequin Fabric
To reduce bulk, follow these steps to remove sequins from the seam allowance before you start sewing.
Materials
Sequin fabric Rotary cutter Scissors Ruler
1 Place the pattern pieces on the wrong side of the fabric. Cut out the pattern on the line with a rotary cutter.
2 Measure the seam allowance. To remove several sequins at a time, pinch a row of sequins. Cut the sequins in half without cutting through the thread that connects them. (The sequins are stitched on with a continuous string, so if you cut the thread more sequins will come off.)
3 Repeat steps 1 and 2 to remove sequins on every side that will be in the seam allowance.
4 When you're done stitching the project you can hand-sew some of the sequins back on where the pattern is interrupted.
Tips for Sewing Sequins
• On regular seams, don't sew through the sequins.
On hems, after removing sequins from the seam allowance, you can stitch over the sequins on the right side of the fabric.
• Go slowly. It will help you achieve a better finish.
• Use a heavier gauge needle. Sewing through sequins dulls the needle, so you will need to change it more often.
• Top stitch a seam allowance where needed to help it lie flatter.
• Use a walking foot to help the sequins move through the machine more smoothly and not stick. Hold the tail threads when you start stitching. This will help bulky fabric not get pushed down in the plate and get stuck.
(Continues…)
Excerpted from "My Doll My Style"
by .
Copyright © 2018 Anna Allen.
Excerpted by permission of F+W Media, Inc..
All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher.
Excerpts are provided by Dial-A-Book Inc. solely for the personal use of visitors to this web site.
Table of Contents
INTRODUCTION, 4,
SEWING SMALL FASHION, 6,
DOLL FASHIONS, 28,
Fringe Swimsuit, 30,
Swimsuit Cover-up, 36,
Swim Sarong, 41,
Beach Bag, 46,
Athletic Top, 54,
Athletic Shorts, 60,
Heart Top, 64,
Textured Skirt, 68,
Flutter Sleeve Dress, 72,
Flutter Sleeve Tunic, 78,
Fringe Purse, 82,
Lace Panel Top, 88,
Pajama Pants, 96,
A-Line Dress, 100,
Long Sleeve Tunic, 106,
Circle Scarf, 111,
Leggings and Jeggings, 112,
Lace Kimono Cardigan, 116,
Fur Vest, 120,
GLOSSARY, 124,
ABOUT THE AUTHOR, 126,
INDEX, 127,