More Readings From One Man's Wilderness: The Journals of Richard L. Proenneke

by John Branson (Editor)

Overview

Throughout history, many people have escaped to nature either permanently or temporarily to rest and recharge. Richard L. Proenneke, a modern-day Henry David Thoreau, is no exception. Proenneke built a cabin in Twin Lakes, Alaska in 1968 and began thirty years of personal growth, which he spent growing more connected to the wilderness in which he lived. This guide through Proenneke’s memories follows the journey that began with One Man’s Wilderness, which contains some of Proenneke’s journals. It continues the story and reflections of this mountain man and his time in Alaska. 

The editor, John Branson, was a longtime friend of Proenneke’s and a park historian. He takes care that Proenneke’s journals from 1974-1980 are kept exactly as the author wrote them. 

Branson’s footnotes give a background and a new understanding to the reader without detracting from Proenneke’s style. Anyone with an interest in conservation and genuine wilderness narratives will surely enjoy and treasure this book.

Product Details

ISBN-13:	9781626366534
Publisher:	Skyhorse
Publication date:	02/07/2012
Sold by:	SIMON & SCHUSTER
Format:	eBook
Pages:	496
File size:	9 MB

About the Author

National Park Service is an office within the Department of Interior.As the nation's principal conservation agency, the Department of Interior has responsibility for most of our naationally owned public lands and natural and cultural resources.  This includes fostering the wisest use of our land and water resources, protecting our fish and wildlife, preserving the environmental and cultural values of our national parks and historic places, and providing for enjoyment of life through outdoor recreation

Read an Excerpt

CHAPTER 1

1974

LAKE CLARK CONNECTIONS — A LIFE AT TWIN LAKES

[RLP drove back to Anchorage in late March from Iowa and met Babe Alsworth. They drove to Edmonston, Alberta with Fred and Charlie Roehl and picked up a new Taylorcraft. Babe and RLP then flew back to Anchorage arriving about mid-April.]

March 27

During the winter of 1973 & 74 I received many nice letters concerning my book One Man's Wilderness and many times I felt guilty about receiving them in flat lander country. If Twin Lakes country was so nice, what was I doing in Iowa.

Babe phoned Merrill Tower to clear him with no receiver and we headed on the last leg of our long journey. Ft. Nelson, B.C. to Anch. is a good hop for one day. Babe flew on home next day and I stayed to take care of last minute business. A few showings of my film and one of them for the National Park Service. They were very much interested and asked if I would shoot some film of Twin Lakes country for them. I would if we could agree on a deal. An easy outfit to deal with and it was soon settled. I purchased a new Bolex tripod for the project and Will Troyer loaned (wouldn't sell) me his good Miller fluid head. Another show for the Anch. Prospectors Club and I have never had a better audience.

Babe came to town and we flew to Port Alsworth Apr. 17. The usual small jobs to do at his homestead. The far side of the greenhouse roof to recover. Several axe and splitting maul handles to put in. A trip to the mission for a few small chores. He left me there to fly away with fare paying passengers. The girls and I took Sig & Leon on a picnicon the creek. "B" came for me in his Tri-Pacer. A nice quiet easy riding rig.

Babe was in no hurry for me to leave even though I had mentioned I was ready to go. Florence (the mission girl) came to my rescue. Babe and I made a second trip to Nondalton and would go on to Iliamna. At the mission I had a couple new faucets to replace some leakers and Babe came after visiting a friend. Florence says "Babe you are in a big hurry. I know Dick is in a big hurry to get to Twin Lakes. I'll pop some corn if you will stay." We stayed for popcorn and then on to Iliamna to deliver a fresh frozen salmon. Babe said when we returned to his place "Now Dick I don't want you to go until you are ready but if you want to go now, we can try it this afternoon." At three o'clock lunch and we loaded the new "T craft" [Taylorcraft]. He would have preferred the big tires on the old one but we would give it a try. Off and flying and she climbed good as we headed for the Kijik [River]. I was interested in snow cover and ice conditions. I could see no caribou trails on the snow patches near Pear Lake. Where were the caribou? Over the mt. and a view of the lakes. Ruffled with remnants of old snow drifts. Not the best for smooth landings. It would be better below Carrithers' point, I was sure of that. We carried two rocks in case we needed a second choice. Smooth from Hope Creek to the point as we came close I let one go, down down and it hit and skipped. Good enough I let the last one go on the turn for a landing. The ice was hard and smooth, just like concrete. No water along the edge which is a good sign. We stopped 50 yds. out and packed my gear to the cabin. We had to wade soft snow to reach the door. The door was locked and I wondered how it would look inside. Not as I had left it but good enough. My kerosene lantern sitting on the counter. A bag of jelly beans on the window ledge above. The stove pipe for above the roof leaning against the stove. I had oiled my stove when I left but now it had rusted along one edge. That was no problem. Mahlon Troyer and his partner Ray Massey had used it and I was glad I had seen him at Babe's as they passed on their way to Wide Bay. He told me they had used it and seemed peaved when I said I had heard that they did.

Babe allowed it looked pretty good and after visiting a few minutes he decided to head for home. He says "you know this will be my first chance to fly this airplane without a load." He was anxious to see how it would clear the mts. on a straight course to Port Alsworth. He took off and climbed fast. I stood and watched him out of sight. Silence closed in around me and it was a good feeling. This was the way I preferred it. Now I was geared to my own planning. I knew what I was going to do.

April 30

Clear, calm & 20° when I looked out. I had slept like a log but was awake long before sun up. I hadn't seen or heard my birds and wondered when they would find me. The only bird I had heard yesterday was a raven. I was up before the sun and had my spuds, bacon, & egg plus a bowl of oatmeal. Today would be a day to get further organized and keep track of the bears. Babe was coming so I had better stay close.

I spotted the four bears where I had last seen them last night. The cubs were stirring but the mother lay still.

It was 10:15 when I heard Babe and soon he was on the ice out front. Three dozen eggs yesterday and four today. I told him seven dozen is too many but he says "eat lots of eggs." About 60 lbs. of spuds, my sugar, beans and seasonings I had bought in Anch., 25 lbs. of oatmeal. Now I was really stocked. About all I could use in the food line was vinegar and I have a fair supply of that.

How did the "T craft" take the mts.? "Fine, I think it shortens the trip about five minutes by going straight across" he said.

He would be heading back and we decided on May 15th for the next trip. Put a little circle of spruce boughs on the ice and leave it till the ice goes bad he said.

May 4 – Clear, Calm & 25°.

A beautiful clear morning and I hadn't expected it. I figured that it would be overcast and I would stay home and celebrate my birthday. I did sleep in till 4:45.

My bears had stayed put during the night and it would be nearly nine before the old girl gave the order to grub roots.

Again the call of swan and I looked without success. The next call I spotted a wedge very high. I should have put the camera outside for again I heard them and louder. Here they came much lower and snow white against the deep blue sky. I rushed for the camera but was too late. Once they are going away they don't show white any longer.

Today I would go up country again. I would try for some ptarmigan pictures. Only two days since I was there and I was surprised that the lake ice had deteriorated so much. Sand & dirt blows on the ice from the river flat in winter and this hastens the melting in spring. Ptarmigan right away and a wild pair. Run along ahead and into the brush. Then one rooster in the top of a small spruce. Another one and this one very cooperative. I soon learned why. The hen was under a spruce nearby. When she flew so did he.

It was 2:15 when I reached the lake shore and headed down. The sun very bright on the snow white lake ice. One hr. and five minutes walking in a straight line to reach Carrithers' point. I sat down on the beach to check on my bears and was surprised to see the sheep bedded near where the bears had spent the night. Then I picked up the bears no more than 200 yds. from the sheep and working on a big slide. I came on down and took care of my camera gear. Put my biscuits in the sun to rise. This had been a pretty good birthday. While I worked about the cabin I heard the cubs squalling and rushed out to check. I saw no reason for the crying. Two with the mother and the third working a hundred yds. up country. The three headed that way and that was the last I saw of any. I started a letter and when I went to check – no bears. Perhaps they were there but in a swag. I hope they stay a few more days at least. The sheep had a good spot above so they hadn't climbed. No birds yet. I left a little meat scrap on the table out side. The first camp robber to get near would have it in a flash. It has been laying there for two days.

May 7 – Clear, Calm & 30°.

First thing after breakfast I searched for the cow moose and spotted a black bear just above the cottonwoods. Some difference between the black & brown bear. The brownie would be up on the mt. digging roots. Evidently the black bear was after the first shoots of green stuff. Brush is budding on the south slope and leaves will soon show.

I found my moose on the big slide – bedded down just her head and neck sticking out from behind a spruce. I would try for her so made preparations. I figured she would see me cross so I headed for Falls Creek and then angled up when the spruce hid me. I traveled close to shore and the bank and timber covered me on that stretch.

Something dark out on the ice and crossing from the base of Crag Mt. to the big slide country which was my destination. I was surprised to learn it was a porcupine. The first I had ever seen on the lake ice. I would meet him at the beach and get some pictures. It so happened that the bank was low right there and the cow moose was above. I had to let him go or risk being seen.

May 9 – Partly Cloudy, Calm & 36°.

Today was due to be the day of days. I slept in a bit and was up at 5 o'clock. Hotcakes out of the way and washing dishes when three camp robbers came. My birds! -I knew it was them. A scrap of hotcake and one came to my hand. Little tender bill and I knew it was. I noticed that his beak doesn't quite close and that's the way it was when I left him last fall. Strong enough to tear chunks out of a hotcake now. The second one wouldn't come to my hand but would come close if I dropped it on the ground. The third was shy and stayed in the spruce. It is good to have them back again.

A few minutes later and I was outside brushing my teeth. Caribou, seven head of them passed from the point going down. Some with antlers and one with only one side. They trudged slowly down the lake heads low as if packing a heavy load. Then I spotted more along the far shore and a half mile below Jerre's cabin. About 20 there. Down by the gravel bank a long string of them on the ice. Caribou in the brush at the lower end of the lake. Who was the Cheechako who predicted very few caribou would come to the lakes this spring?

I crossed to the high bank on the up country side of Beech Creek. From there maybe I could see them go and perhaps get ahead of them. As if there never was a caribou and they had to be there. No doubt they traveled the beach below the bank and my line of vision. A beautiful shot up the lake from there and I ended a roll of film.

At the cabin and I heard a parky squirrel. There he was at the rock pile on the beach. I had left him there last fall. I took him a chunk of hotcake and I had no more than reached the cabin when he was sitting straight as a picket the hotcake bit in both hands. He is the guy that ate a batch of my cabbage last fall. The birds came for a hand out. It was just like old times.

May 11 – Partly Cloudy, Breeze dn. & 30°.

I was up at 4:30 to greet the new day. My birds were here before that by quite a bit. I heard them bumping the spruce buck horns on the end of the ridge log. The second bird came to my hand as if it had been a regular thing.

After breakfast a check of the hump and Crag Mt. No sign of life there. I walked out on the ice to check the moose pasture. One caribou cow over above the cottonwoods and while I watched a second and third cow appeared. Then two out on the lake ice from behind Carrithers' point. They seemed afraid of something on the beach and later I determined it was Terry Shurtleff's pile of gas cans under the spruce on the beach. The two trotted across the lake and more followed. There was seven in all. I took glasses and scope and went up to the point. More caribou cows – a good bunch of them and they were also crossing the lake. 24 was my count and all cows – most with antlers. They stopped out in the middle and milled around before finally deciding to go up country. They headed for the mouth of Glacier Creek. And there above (up country) Glacier Creek mouth was a cow moose and once I thought I got a glimpse of a dark yearling calf but I couldn't be sure. She was on the move and stopped often to stick her big nose high testing the wind.

May 12 – Snowing, Breeze dn. & 35°.

Visibility was low and the ground was white when I looked out at five. A strong breeze down the lake. I was glad to see it. The chore I had to do today would be much easier because of it.

Fried spuds for breakfast along with the usual bacon, egg, and oatmeal. My hot water, vinegar, and honey which I find the best drink of all.

Chores out of the way I made ready to write letters. Add to what I had and write more. The snow stopped but the wind continued down the lake. First get a fresh kettle of beans to simmering. Make the fire do double duty today. My two birds came for a hand out and were gone for the day. I didn't see mr. parky squirrel until afternoon. He sat up straight on top of the rock pile and munched a sourdough biscuit and then retired below. I must cut down on his ration or he will forget what work is. Not so with the camp robber. He is on the go from daylight till dark and anything he can pick up for free is just a bonus.

I wrote till late afternoon and then took time out to get cleaned up and do laundry. Supper over and my journal out of the way I went at it again. Some letters had gone [un]answered too long. Blue spots down country but a few small flakes of snow still come with the good breeze from up country. Temp. 37°.

May 13 – Partly Cloudy, Calm & 35°.

Babe had said, with spruce boughs, make a circle on the ice and leave it there as long as the ice is good. I had better get that chore out of the way. I didn't like to cut a small spruce for boughs. I would trim up the blow down tree behind Spike's cabin. With glasses & scope and my trusty axe I went up to the point. Another good look across the lake but no success on moose. I got my boughs plus a couple lengths of green fire wood for Spike's stove. I stuffed a burlap sack with tips of branches and went out on the ice. I suspected those rams on the mt. would take a dim view of this operation.

I would not only make a circle but lay out a runway too. Forty five feet wide and several hundred feet long. The markers along the side fifty feet apart. A circle twenty feet in diameter on the Port Alsworth end.

A large body of open water at the upper end of the lower lake. The upper lake rising very slowly and so more water is going through the stream. I didn't set up the camera I would see if I could catch a fish first. First cast of the season and the reel whirred. The super duper [lure] plunked in out beyond the fast water. I reeled in slowly. Would I get a strike first cast. The lure came to the end of the gravel bar under the fast water and stopped. I pulled and it moved. I had a fish on. A good one by the way the rod bent and the reel turned. Probably a laker with a boney mouth. He would drop the hook if he got an inch of slack. I played him awhile and worked him in and I knew before it got close it was no lake trout. The color was wrong. A big Dolly [Varden] or arctic char. Hooked good both top and bottom so he wouldn't get away. A stone on the rod and I went for my camera gear. Sunshine every where but here and I waited for the cloud to move but clouds don't move. They just build up on one side and dissipate on the other. I scooped out a couple holes near the ice along shore. I wanted some pictures there. I moved him over and he was patient while I removed the hooks. A shot or two and I decided to move him to the other pool which looked much nicer. I would get some close ups there. After that I would slide him over the dam and under the ice with the camera running. No struggle while I moved him. A real nice fish, a good nineteen inches long. He lay in that nice pool along the ice. A pretty picture in the making. I moved back to the camera and before I realized it he was gone. Just swam and swam right over the dam. There was a spruce nearby. I should have cut a few boughs to fence the pool. I didn't mind him getting away but would liked to have a movie of it. I tried and tried and got one strike but no fish. An arctic tern, the first of the season, was working nearby.

I glassed the country and could count 16 sheep on Falls Mt. and two on Black Mt. No lambs or any lone ewes up in the rocks.

May 14 – Partly Cloudy, Calm & 36°.

Frank Bell said years ago, "I feel better at Twin Lakes than any place I have ever been." I believe that is true. I sleep like a log. I wonder how Frank feels in Pekin, Illinois.

My early morning check. No lambs that I could see. Rams not four but six on Crag Mt. and close to the ridge leading up. Just in the edge of the rough stuff. The two half curls were there and the four, all good ones. It was six o'clock when I headed for the point with the scope to check for moose across. While I glassed the far side I heard the clack of horns on Crag Mt. Was those big guys bumping head at this time of year? I put the scope on them. Soon I saw two standing shoulder [to shoulder] and reaching with that inboard front foot. One turned and trotted back a few paces – turned again and stood head on. The other wasn't interested. Many false starts but pretty soon two did come together and it was four or five seconds before the sound of heads bumping reached me.

(Continues…)

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Excerpted from "More Readings From One Man's Wilderness"
by .
Copyright © 2012 John Branson.
Excerpted by permission of Skyhorse Publishing.
All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher.
Excerpts are provided by Dial-A-Book Inc. solely for the personal use of visitors to this web site.

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Table of Contents

Map of Lake Clark National Park and Preserve,
Map of Twin Lakes Area and Surrounding Landmarks,
Acknowledgement,
Preface,
Introduction,
Editorial Principles,
Richard Louis Proenneke,
Chapter I 1974: Lake Clark Connections — A Life at Twin Lakes,
Chapter II 1975: Flight and Tragedy,
Chapter III 1976: A Close Call,
Chapter IV 1977: Rehab and Restoration at Twin Lakes,
Chapter V 1978: Master and Ambassador of Twin Lakes,
Chapter VI 1979: Changes in the Air,
Chapter VII 1980: On Top of His Game,
Bibliography,
Index,