Modern Patchwork Home: Dynamic Quilts and Projects for Every Room

by Vivika Hansen Denegre (Editor)

Overview

Create modern quilted home decor for every room in your house!

Showcasing the best of Modern Patchwork Magazine, Modern Patchwork Home features patterns from today's top designers. From quilts and runners to pillows and whimsical accessories, customizable carryalls to a cool yoga mat, you can create custom looks that showcase your favorite fabrics. Inside this must-have resource, you'll find:

 • Project instructions for 20+ inspiring modern quilting projects, including bed-size quilts, throw pillows, wall-hangings, and fun accessories that will add a little whimsy to any space.
 • Illustrated step-by-step tutorials explaining essentials skills and timesaving techniques.  
 • Tips and tutorials on choosing fabrics, sewing better quilts, and more!  
Modern Patchwork Home includes everything you need to create custom modern home decor that showcases your one-of-a-kind style.

Product Details

ISBN-13:	9781440248856
Publisher:	Penguin Publishing Group
Publication date:	10/09/2018
Pages:	144
Sales rank:	708,537
Product dimensions:	8.20(w) x 10.80(h) x 0.40(d)

Read an Excerpt

CHAPTER 1

QUILTING BASICS

TECHNIQUES AND TIME-SAVING TIPS FOR THE MODERN QUILTER

Tips to help you get started

• Use ¼" (6 mm) seam allowances unless otherwise noted.

• Stitch with the fabric right sides together.

• After stitching a seam, press to set the seam, and then open the fabrics and press the seam allowance toward the darker fabric.

• Yardages are based upon 40"–wide (101.5 cm) fabric after the selvedges have been removed. Left: Module Quilt by Christine Barnes.

Half-Square Triangle Blocks

TWO AT A TIME

Half-Square Triangle blocks (HSTs) are some of the most common and versatile blocks we use in quilting, but the bias-edge seam makes them a bit of a challenge. This quick method for making two identical HST blocks at one time eliminates the need to sew along a cut bias edge — you get more blocks with less fuss.

1 Cut two squares 7/8" (2.2 cm) larger than the desired finished size of your block.

2 Using a ruler, draw a diagonal line on the wrong side of the lighter square from the upper left to the lower right corner (Figure 1).

3 With right sides facing, pair a dark square with the marked light square.

4 Stitch ¼" (6 mm) on each side of the drawn line (Figure 2).

5 Cut along the drawn line, creating 2 HSTs (Figure 3).

6 Press the seam allowances either open or toward the darker fabric. Trim the dog ears (Figure 4).

7 Voila! You now have 2 HST blocks to use in your next quilt!

Make a Block in Any Size

You can make any size HST block with this Two at a Time method by using the following formula:

Cut 2 squares 7/8" (2.2 cm) larger than the desired finished size of the block. For example, to make 2 HST blocks that finish at 4" (10 cm), cut (2) 47/8" (12.5 cm) squares.

Note:Some quilters cut the blocks 1" (2.5 cm) larger than the desired finished size and then trim the pressed blocks down to the final size. It's a little more work, but these quilters prefer the additional accuracy.

Half-Square Triangle Blocks

EIGHT AT A TIME

This time-saving method helps you make 8 HSTs at a time — quickly and accurately.

1 Using a ruler, draw diagonal lines on the lighter square from the upper left to lower right and from the upper right to the lower left (Figure 1).

2 Draw center vertical and horizontal lines (Figure 2).

3 With right sides together, pair a dark square with the marked light square.

4 Stitch ¼" (6 mm) on each side of the diagonal lines only.

5 Cut along the drawn diagonal lines (Figure 3), and again at the center vertical and horizontal lines, creating 8 HSTs (Figure 4).

6 Press the seam allowances either open or toward the darker fabric. Trim the dog ears (Figure 5).

7 Voilà! You now have 8 HST blocks to use in your next quilt!

Make a Block in Any Size

You can make any size HST block with this Eight at a Time method by using the following formula:

Multiply the measurement of the desired finished HST block by 2, then add 1." (4.5 cm). It works every time!

For example, to make 8 HST units with a finished size of 4" (10 cm) square, cut the initial squares at 9." (25 cm) square.

(4" × 2) + 1¾" = 9¾" [(10 cm × 2) + 4.5 cm = 25 cm]

Foundation Paper-Piecing

Foundation paper-piecing is a fantastic way to create complicated designs in fabric. If you're not familiar with paper piecing, here's an easy introduction.

1 The shapes on paper-piecing blocks are numbered (Figure 1).

2 Using fabric pieces that are larger than the numbered areas, place fabric 1 on the wrong side of the paper, right side up (Figure 2).

3 Position fabric 2 on top of fabric 1, right sides facing and edges aligned. Make sure the edges of fabric 2 will extend at least ¼" (6 mm) beyond the printed lines when pressed back into place (Figure 3).

4 With the paper on top, stitch directly on the pattern line between pieces 1 and 2, extending the stitching into the seam allowances at the end of the seams (Figure 4).

5 Press fabric 2 back. Fold the paper back along the stitched line and trim the seam allowance (Figure 5).

6 Continue to add pieces in numerical order.

7 Trim the excess paper and fabric ¼" (6 mm) beyond the outer pattern lines.

8 After the blocks have been joined together, carefully tear off the foundation paper.

Tips for Paper-Piercing

• Print or trace the pattern onto foundation or copy paper. Accuracy matters: Check that the printed patterns are accurate. Sometimes printers and scanners slightly change dimensions; make sure the printed pattern is the same size as the original. You will need one pattern piece for each block.

• Cut the fabric a bit generously. Although it feels wasteful, it will save time and fabric in the long run. We recommend adding ." (2 cm) to the piece needed.

• Use a new 90/14 needle and shorten your stitch length to 1.8 mm to make it easier to remove the paper after the quilt is assembled.

• Sewing is done with the paper side up and the fabric beneath. Stitch on the printed lines.

• Make a test block before cutting all of your fabric.

Flying Geese Blocks

FOUR AT A TIME

Flying Geese blocks are made up of the 'Geese,' which is a large, centered triangle in the unit, and the 'Sky' which are the triangles on the sides. There are several ways to make Flying Geese blocks, but if your quilt pattern calls for several in the same color combination, this method can't be beat. There is absolutely no wasted fabric, and no need to work with unstable bias edges. The Geese section begins as a single large square and 4 smaller squares make up the Sky.

1 First, to determine the size of squares to cut, write down the size of the finished block. For our example, we'll use a 2" × 4" (5 cm × 10 cm) finished block.

For the large Geese piece, cut a square the desired finished width of the block plus 1¼" (3.2 cm).

4" + 1¼" = 5¼" square (10 cm + 3.2 cm = 13.5 cm square)

FOR the smaller Sky pieces, cut 4 squares each the desired finished height of the block plus 7/8" (2.2 cm).

2" + 7/8" = 27/8" square (5 cm + 2.2 cm = 7.5 cm square)

2 Draw a diagonal line on the wrong side of 4 Sky (background) squares.

3 Place 1 Sky square on a Geese fabric, right sides together. Place the second Sky square in the opposite corner as shown. Align the raw edges in the corners. The tips of the squares will overlap in the center. Sew ¼" (6 mm) from the drawn line on both sides of the line. Cut on the marked line (Figure 1).

4 Press the Sky away from the Geese. You have 2 partial units (Figure 2).

5 Working with 1 partial unit at a time, place 1 square with the drawn line perpendicular to the sewn seam, right sides together. Align the raw edges in the corner. Sew ¼" (6 mm) from the drawn line on both sides of the line (Figure 3).

6 Cut along the drawn line (Figure 4).

7 Press the Sky away from the Geese (Figure 5).

8 Repeat with the second partial unit. Voilà, 4 Flying Geese!

Curved Piecing

Curved piecing is ubiquitous in modern quilts, but some quilters ignore it because they've avoided learning how to sew curves. Like many things, piecing curves takes a little practice. With these tips, you'll soon be creating smooth curved seams like a pro!

Note:These illustrations show the Drunkard's Path block but these tips are true for all blocks with curved pieces.

1 Cut a convex quarter circle piece and a concave L-shaped piece from contrasting fabrics (Figure 1).

Fold each piece in half. Finger press at the curved centers.

2 With right sides together and the L-shaped piece on top, align press marks and pin in the center of the block (Figure 2).

3 Pin the outside edges together with the straight edges matching (Figure 3).

4 You might find it necessary to add more pins between the 3 original pins, but this step is optional (Figure 4).

5 Sew the curve. Sew slowly and remove the pins as you come to them, easing the top and bottom fabrics together to avoid tucks.

6 Press the seams toward the quarter circle piece to make it pop, or toward the L-shaped piece to make the circles recede. A bit of spray starch helps keep the circles smooth.

Accuracy Matters

For curved blocks, precision cutting and sewing will make a difference in piecing success. Here are some tips for troubleshooting them.

SMOOTH CURVES: Always sew with the L-shaped piece on top so you can see the fabric as it eases into the curved shape of the quarter circle as you sew.

OFF-KILTER BLOCKS: If the fabric is pulled when sewing, the block might stretch out of square. Try trimming the block to size, or pick out the stitches, press the pieces with starch, and sew again.

TUCKS: Sometimes small tucks may get sewn into the seam. If this happens, pull out the stitches around the tuck, ease the fabrics back together, and re-sew the open portion with a smooth curve.

SAVE TIME: Making a single block can be time consuming. Batching tasks helps establish a more efficient routine when sewing — cut all the pieces, then move to pinning, sewing, pressing, and finally squaring them all up.

Sew Perfect Y-seams

Patchwork blocks such as Hexagons or Tumbling Blocks have three seams that intersect in a "Y" shape and cannot be assembled with continuous edge-to-edge stitching. Y-seam construction requires starting and stopping ." (6 mm) from the edge of the patchwork in order to create blocks that lie flat and do not pucker. The following technique simplifies Y-seam construction to "dot-to-dot" sewing. With a little practice, it will become second nature!

SIMPLE Y-SEAM CONSTRUCTION

1 Using a sharp pen or mechanical pencil, mark the point where the ¼" (6 mm) seam allowances intersect on the wrong side of each piece. This dot indicates where to start and stop sewing (Figure 1).

2 Align 2 of the pieces, right sides facing. Sew a seam from "dot to dot" being sure to backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam to lock it in place (Figure 2).

3 Open the patchwork and align the next piece in place onto 1 side of the partial block, matching the dots. Sew a seam from dot to dot (Figure 3).

4 Pivot the piece and align the last raw edges together.

Pin in place. Sew dot to dot. Open and press the block, fanning the seams where they intersect, if desired (Figure 4).

Tips for Successful Y-seam Construction

• Handle the block components carefully. The pieces contain bias edges and may stretch.

• Always anchor the stitches at the beginning and end of the seam with a few backstitches.

• Precision matters. Sew an accurate ." (6 mm) seam and do not sew beyond the dot into the seam allowance. If puckering occurs, pick out any stitches that are in the seam allowances.

• Press the seams in 1 direction (clockwise or counter clockwise) in order to fan the intersection and reduce bulk where the 3 seams meet.

• Practice makes perfect! This is a technique used frequently in Hexagon, Star, Tumbling Block, and other quilt patterns and becomes easier with practice!

Easy Envelope Pillow Backs

WITH OR WITHOUT A BINDING

Use these simple directions to finish pillows with an envelope closure. Binding or no binding? That's up to you.

Materials

Pillow top Backing fabric Pillow form Point turner
Binding strips, 2." (5.5 cm) × (the pillow perimeter + 5" [12.5 cm]) (for the Envelope Back with Binding option only)

ENVELOPE BACK WITHOUT BINDING

1 Cut 2 pieces of backing fabric, each the height of the finished pillow plus ½" (1.3 cm) (for seam allowances) and the width of the finished pillow plus 6" (15 cm) (for overlap). As an example, for a 16" (40.5 cm) square pillow, cut (2) 22" × 16½" (56 cm × 42 cm) rectangles.

2 Fold and press the rectangles in half widthwise, wrong sides facing. (In our example, the rectangles would be 11" × 16½" [28 cm × 42 cm].)

3 Overlap the pressed edges, making a square the size of the pillow top.

4 Baste the overlapped edges together at the top and bottom (Figure 1).

5 Place the pillow front atop the backing with right sides facing. Stitch around the outer edge of the pillow top, rounding the corners if you prefer to avoid sharp points on the finished pillow (Figure 2).

Tip:Sew around the entire pillow twice for additional strength.

6 Turn the pillow right side out through the opening in the pillow back. Gently push out the corners of the pillow with a point turner and insert the pillow form.

ENVELOPE BACK WITH BINDING

1 Cut the fabric the height of the finished pillow (without an additional seam allowance) and the width of the finished pillow plus 6" (15 cm) (for overlap). As an example, for a 16" (40.5 cm) pillow, cut (2) 22" × 16½" (56 cm × 42 cm) rectangles.

2 Follow steps 1–4 for the Envelope Back Without Binding.

3 Place the pillow front on the backing, wrong sides together. Machine baste around the pillow layers, 1/8" (3 cm) from the outer edge.

4 From the binding fabric, cut enough 2¼" (5.5 cm) strips to go around the perimeter of the pillow, plus an extra 5" (12.5 cm). Using diagonal seams, join binding strips into one continuous piece for straight-grain, Frenchfold binding (see French-Fold Binding in this chapter for tips). Bind the pillow as you would a quilt and insert the pillow form.

French-Fold Binding

(AKA DOUBLE-FOLD BINDING)

A well-made binding will protect the edges of your quilt, add to the overall design, and make it last longer. The following technique is for creating a French-fold binding, also known as a double-fold binding.

PREPARE THE BINDING

1 Measure the perimeter of your quilt and then add approximately 24" (61 cm). The additional length will accommodate the mitered corners and the finished ends of the binding, and give you a few inches to spare.

2 Cut enough 2¼"-wide (5.5 cm) strips to equal the desired length.

3 Join the strips together using diagonal seams. To do this, place two strips, right sides together at right angles. The area where the strips overlap forms a square. Sew diagonally across the square (Figure 1). Trim the excess fabric ¼" (6 mm) from the seam line and press the seam allowance open.

4 Lightly press the binding in half lengthwise, with wrong sides facing.

ATTACH THE BINDING

5 Open up the binding and press ½" (1.3 cm) to the wrong side at one short end. Refold the binding lengthwise. Choose a starting point along one side of the quilt, at least 8" (20.5 cm) from the corner. Leaving several inches of the folded end of the binding loose at the beginning, align the raw edges of the binding strip to the raw edges of the right side of the quilt top. Pin or clip in place. Begin sewing, using a ¼" (6 mm) seam allowance.

6 Stop sewing ¼" (6 mm) before reaching the corner, backstitch, clip the threads, and remove the quilt from the sewing machine.

7 Rotate the quilt 90-degree to position it for sewing the next side. Fold the binding fabric up away from the project (Figure 2). Then, fold the binding back down along the project raw edge. This forms a miter at the corner. Stitch the second side beginning at the raw edge and continuing down the second side, ending ¼" (6 mm) from the next corner (Figure 3). Continue to add the binding to the remainder of the quilt.

8 To finish the binding, stop stitching several inches from the starting point. Measure and trim the working edge to fit at least ½" (1.3 cm) under the folded edge of the beginning end of the binding. Trim the binding at that point.

9 Slide the trimmed end under the folded edge and finish sewing the binding.

10 Fold the binding to the back of the quilt, enclosing the raw edges. The folded edge of the binding strip should just cover the stitches visible on the back of the quilt (Figure 4).

11 Sew the binding in place by hand, tucking in the corners to complete the miters as you go. Slipstitch the folds for a tidy finish.

On the Beach Yoga Mat (detail) by Vivika Hansen DeNegre.

(Continues…)

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Excerpted from "Modern Patchwork Home"
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Excerpted by permission of F+W Media, Inc..
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Table of Contents

INTRODUCTION: MAKE IT MODERN, 4,
CHAPTER 1: QUILTING BASICS, 6,
CHAPTER 2: HOME DÉCOR AND ACCESSORIES, 18,
Hexagon Pillow: LINDA HUNGERFORD, 20,
Pencil Holder: GOSIA PAWLOWSKA, 26,
Braided Table Runner: DAISY ASCHEHOUG, 30,
Quilted Patchwork Apron: JEN CARLTON-BAILLY, 34,
Bloom Selvedge Pillow: CINDY WIENS, 38,
Reflected Wedges Runner: JACQUIE GERING, 42,
Twisted Flower Tote: VANESSA CHRISTENSON, 46,
On the Beach Yoga Mat: VIVIKA HANSEN DENEGRE, 50,
Canvas Tote: ROSEMARIE DEBOER, 54,
Sketchbook Cover: LEE CHAPELL MONROE, 58,
Make Mini Quilt: ANGELA BOWMAN, 62,
CHAPTER 3: QUILTS, 68,
Modern Log Cabin Quilt: TARA FAUGHNAN, 70,
Fly Away Quilt: SUZY WILLIAMS, 76,
Module Quilt: CHRISTINE BARNES, 82,
Through the Blinds Quilt: MALKA DUBRAWSKY, 86,
Urban Trek Quilt: HEATHER BLACK, 90,
Radio Quilt : ROSEMARIE DEBOER, 96,
Modern Courthouse Quilt: SIOBHAN ROGERS, 100,
Islands in the Stream Quilt: PAMELA COBB, 104,
Twinkle Star Quilt: DEBBIE GRIFKA, 110,
Flight Delight Quilt: VIVIKA HANSEN DENEGRE, 114,
Graphic Cross Quilt: ALLIE HEATH, 118,
Hot Cross Buns Quilt: ANNMARIE COWLEY, 122,
Conservatory Gardens Quilt: JEN CARLTON-BAILLY, 126,
TEMPLATES, 132,
Index, 142,
Contributors, 143,