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Overview
Sir Douglas Mawson, Australia's greatest Antarctic explorer, made four trips to the Antarctic during his long and storied career. He traveled south in 1907 with Shackleton's British Antarctic Expedition; in 1911 as leader of the Australasian Antarctic expedition; and twice between 1929 and 1931 as leader of the British, Australian, and New Zealand Antarctic Research Expedition. Gathered here are Mawson's diaries from each of these four trips, volumes which provide an intimate perspective on the stress and conflicts inherent to each journey, their achievements and failures, joys and tragedies. Gripping and unrestrained, this is a revealing look at one of history's most daring adventurers.
Product Details
| ISBN-13: | 9781743438145 |
|---|---|
| Publisher: | Allen & Unwin |
| Publication date: | 11/01/2009 |
| Sold by: | Barnes & Noble |
| Format: | eBook |
| Pages: | 524 |
| File size: | 22 MB |
| Note: | This product may take a few minutes to download. |
About the Author
Read an Excerpt
Mawson's Antarctic Diaries
By Fred Jacka, Eleanor Jacka
Allen & Unwin
Copyright © 2001 South Australian MuseumAll rights reserved.
ISBN: 978-1-74343-814-5
CHAPTER 1
THE VOYAGE SOUTH
The diary begins with the departure of the Australian members of the expedition from Sydney to join Shackleton in Lyttelton, New Zealand. There they boarded the expedition ship, Nimrod, which was towed by the steamship Koonya as far as the pack-ice in order to conserve Nimrod's own fuel. Apart from the expedition's party of sixteen and crew of twenty-six, there were ten ponies, nine sledge dogs, sheep, materials for the hut and stores for a year. The accommodation was appallingly crowded and uncomfortable, and the weather atrocious.
Shackleton had originally intended to establish his wintering quarters at the eastern limit of the Ross Ice Shelf, at a spot now known as the Bay of Whales. Had he done so he may well have succeeded in reaching the South Pole. Mawson (1935, p. 22) points out that:
Had the Nimrod been discharged on the ice surface of the Bay of Whales, the whole of the eight Manchurian ponies that had survived the rough sea passage down would have been available for transport on the southern journey. As it was, half of them died as a result of eating volanic gravel when later tethered on the foothills of Mt Erebus. Further, the Bay of Whales is quite 60 nautical miles nearer the Pole and in a region of infinitely better weather conditions than where winter quarters were established at Cape Royds, McMurdo Sound. Again, the open water of the Sound cuts off Cape Royds from communication with the south in the late summer and autumn, whereas at the Bay of Whales the way is free for laying depots to the south at all times.
It is a measure of Mawson's greatness as a scientist that he can state entirely without irony, in his 1956 letter to Shackleton's biographer, Margery Fisher, that:
At the time of making the decision, whether to land at Bay of Whales or adopt McMurdo Sound, Shackleton was greatly comforted by, and came to his decision on the advice of David, who maintained that much better scientific work could be achieved if the Expedition's base were at McMurdo Sound.
The men's quarters on the Koonya were uncomfortable in the extreme. Raymond Priestley (in Fisher, 1957, p. 141), the geologist on the expedition, wrote in his diary:
The so-called Scientists' Quarters is a place that under ordinary circumstances I wouldn't put ten dogs in, much less 15 of a shore-party. It can be compared with no place on earth and is more like my idea of Hell than anything I have ever imagined before.
NOTEBOOK 1
20 December 1907
Left Sydney by Huddard Parker [Shipping Company] S S Wimmera at 2 p m Friday 20th December. Professor David, Cotton, and self had a good send off by Sydney University men, a large body of whom had collected on prominent part of the wharf to sing parting songs. At the last farewell the Professor, with a set face, stated 'Now boys we are in for it' and disappeared below for a short while.
The 'Blue Moon Dramatic Coy' were (75 of them) fellow passengers to Wellington and though early in the voyage they did not obtrude themselves yet later on, as mal-de-mer wore off, they made the most of their opportunities to show what wondrous fellow feeling there is between the sexes.
At this stage things might be well described as red hot even at midnight on the main deck. A climax in this direction was prevented by our arrival at 10 a m Tuesday, Xmas Eve at Wellington. Mr Hogben and others met us at boat as Prof David's friends.
24 December
We dined with Mr Hogben at one of hotels. At 4 p m had afternoon tea at the Kiosk by invitation of a company of people, including Mr Hogben (Curator of Museum), Mr Adams (Survey Department), Prof Kirk (Physiology) etc.
Saw Prof Easterfield (chemistry) before leaving by steamer at 11 45 p m.
Weather a bit rough to Lyttleton, arriving 12.45 p m.
25 December
Had Xmas dinner at United Scenic Hotel, Christchurch.
Saw and had tea with Dr Coleridge Farr Xmas Day. Saw Mrs Morrison a couple of days later, went out with her to her relatives, Mrs Nichols and Mrs Jameson.
All the time in Christchurch very busy — helped at observatory by Mr Skey, at University College by Farr, Speight and Evans. Left £13 with Reid and 2 bertho bags and 1 possum ring in roll [sic].
1 January 1908
On January 1st left Lyttelton in S Y Nimrod towed by S S Koonya. Tremendous crowds everywhere on hills, special steamers, send off by fleet of 4 warships including flagship.
2-9 January
Towards evening of second of January weather increased and days of rough weather, culminating in hurricane on 9th, very nearly ended the expedition. The towing boat stuck bravely by us. We threw all loose material overboard, had to repeatedly alter our course — heave to, follow with wind [throw] out oil bags, and as by a miracle we are today through such terribly bad weather as we did not expect to withstand.
The bulwarks and some of deck houses are broken, one dog and a pony, 'Doctor', are dead, all the ponies are in bad state in spite of utmost attention.
The bad weather is regarded by some as due to killing of an albtatross 1st day out by Wild.
10 January
We are now nearly 700 m. S.S.E. of Lyttelton and temp averages about 44°.
The ship is a fine one though very limited. All rubbish is chucked on deck to be swept away by the continual wash, which also serves the cook for washing his pans and plates.
The 'scientists' quarters' is an awful hole, though today it has been cleaned out pretty well, and opportunity taken to dry blankets. It is a room 24 ft x 6 ft in which [is] all our luggage, much scientific instruments, and [where] 15 of us have to sleep.
It is entered by a ladder through a 2 ft x 2 ft hole above — it has one small ventilator besides. There is a constant drip from the roof and the air may be cut. We are wet all day by waves and sleep in wet clothes between wet blankets at night.
Most of us were sick to begin with but everybody is now for some days over this and the meals are rushed.
Up to date the life has been hideous — we are looking forward to the comforts of the ice land. [Here follow four pages of meteorological data.]
14 January
Fine weather for a couple of days has given us a long leg to the South. On 14th two large icebergs sighted — about 150 ft high and ¼ mile diameter. Much pup ice about them.
15 January
On the 15th at 8.10 a m a continuous line of ice noted on southern horizon — this thought to be the pack and so Koonya prepares to return.
Boat sent off from Nimrod with mail and Mr. Buckley, to whose honour a champagne dinner with about 8 courses had been given 2 nights previously.
The boat could not bring the 20 sheep carried for us by Koonya and already killed on account of rough weather. They however brought a line back with them along which subsequently the sheep, floated by buoys, were dragged. 10 carried safely, then line parted. The Koonya, by great piece of seamanship, came very close again (almost touching) and passed another line, but in hauling other 10 sheep the line parted and sheep lost — to be food for albatrosses.
We had very hard work for all hands all afternoon (4 hours) in hauling one of the chains of whole 75 fathoms length out by hand power. Relieved of ? weight, the winch pulled in the rest.
In the meantime we had cheered the Koonya on parting.
16 January
What we had taken for pack proved to be packed tabular bergs 100 miles across the belt — this formation rather unique. Open sea beyond with only occasional bergs, then another berg pack, then open sea, beyond this scattered small bergs of sea worn ice — occasionally packed slightly. Adélie Penguins rather common on these. Snow Petrels, Antarctic Petrels, Giant Petrels and occasional Wilson [Storm] Petrel noted. Later a few skua gulls. Whales fairly numerous.
22 January
On evening of 22nd packed bergs noted to left.
23 January
Breakfast time 23rd the Barrier noted to South. Ship coasted along it to E. 100 ft high to begin with but at Borchgrevink Bight [a transient feature in Ross Barrier edge], met with at midnight, it was reduced somewhat.
At Borchgrevink Bight the ship ran into a cul-de-sac. Barrier on right, frozen sea ice in front and packed bergs and sea ice on left, Emperors [penguins] and seals on sea ice. About 15 m ahead [saw] what appeared to be snow covered land — Ross's possible land. Whales very numerous, 8 seen at once. Very numerous Antarctic and Snow Petrels in colonies on flat bergs — diatom stains in lower parts of bergs.
Ship headed about and coasting, pack to north, looking for a passage.
[Here follow fourteen pages of meteorological data, a few notes on biological material, brief remarks attributed to fellow expeditioners, and deliberations on electrical conductivity of air. This section of the diary concludes with a list of books and a few Latin quotations.]
HEADING (MAGNETIC) SOUTH
Mawson did not keep a diary of the period between landing at Cape Royds and setting off for the South Magnetic Pole, i.e. between the end of January and the beginning of October 1908. During that period a base was established at Cape Royds on Ross Island, detailed records kept of magnetic observations and of the aurora, and reconnaisance tours made in the immediate vicinity of the hut. Ernest Shackleton's (1909) The Heart of the Antarctic gives an excellent description of life during the winter months at the base; here we give a brief sketch based on the works of H. R. Mill and Griffith Taylor.
By the end of February the main structure of the hut had been built and the stores put in order. The hut, which had no windows, was divided into eight cubicles, four on each side with a narrow open space between. One of these was Shackleton's cabin; each of the others had spaces for two bunks, fitted and decorated according to the occupants' desires. The facilities included a darkroom, where Mawson did most of his work, and a printing press on which, in the winter, they printed the journal Aurora Australis. They published the story 'Bathybin' (a somewhat lumbering flight of fancy), written by Mawson. It related to the adventures of a party who had reached the South Pole and found the area filled with gigantic mushrooms, which exploded in their faces.
The cubicle where Mawson and David lived is best described in Shackleton's words (1909, p. 147):
It would be difficult to do justice to the picturesque confusion of this department; one hardly likes to call it untidy, for the things that covered the bunks by daytime could be placed nowhere else conveniently. A miscellaneous assortment of cameras, spectroscopes, thermometers, microscopes, electrometers, and the like lay in profusion on the blankets. Mawson's bed consisted of his two boxes in which he had stowed his scientific apparatus on the way down ... The name given, though not by the owners, to this cubicle was 'The Pawn Shop' ...
It was well on in March before complete order had been reached and the regular routine of life established. The acetylene gas-plant had been made to work, providing excellent illumination. The narrow floor-space was economised by the device of hoisting the long table used for meals up to the roof so as to allow room for work on sledges or harness, or any of the innumerable efforts at construction or repair that were constantly in hand.
Before the light went, more than a hundred penguins were killed and stacked up to freeze as fresh food for the winter, and the pony stables and dog kennels were made as comfortable as possible. Much attention had to be given to exercising and training the ponies and dogs. However, the ponies did not thrive, and several died during the winter from their habit of eating sand.
The idea of ascending Mt Erebus was floated (Fisher, 1957, pp. 180-3):
The suggestion that Mt Erebus might be climbed seems to have come first from Professor David ... The mountain had not been climbed before, and Shackleton naturally liked the idea of bagging a peak as well as a Pole. The journey would test the endurance of those who made it. Then, too, it could be planned very quickly. Sledges could be man-hauled as far as they could go, so the ponies would not be over-strained; stores and equipment need not be excessive.
Most important of all, an expedition to Erebus would have great scientific value. ... Finally, Erebus was an active volcano, and Shackleton ... must have felt the compulsion to discover more about this configuration just as strongly as the scientists ...
The party, consisting of David, Mawson and Mackay, set off on 5 March, initially with a supporting party of three. Mawson's job was to take photographs and collect geological material. On 9 March they reached the extinct crater and made a thorough investigation of it. On the following morning, they reached the edge of the active crater. Thorough observations were made, and the height of Erebus was determined with an aneroid and hypsometer — 13 370 feet (4075 metres).
The ascent of Erebus was valuable, both as a piece of useful research and as a test of endurance. David came to some interesting geological conclusions. The meteorological observations were of exceptional interest, but meteorology had also impressed itself on the company not only in the abstract but also through the direct and devastating effect of the weather. The expedition had shown the six men what could be done and also what they were up against in exploring in the Antarctic.
The descent was made in less than two days.
It may well be that the success of the Mt Erebus expedition decided Shackleton on choosing the same team to explore the route to the South Magnetic Pole, though Mawson states that he was invited by David to join his party rather late in the piece.
The object of the expedition to the South Magnetic Pole, designated the Northern Party, set out explicitly by Shackleton in a letter to each of its members, was:
(1) To take magnetic observations at every suitable point with a view of determining the dip and the position of the Magnetic Pole. If time permits, and your equipment and supplies are sufficient, you will try and reach the Magnetic Pole.
(2) To make a general geological survey of the coast of Victoria Land. In connection with this work you will not sacrifice the time that might be used to carry out the work noted in paragraph (1).
(3) I particularly wish you to be able to work at the geology of the western mountains and for Mawson to spend at least a fortnight at Dry Valley to prospect for minerals of economic value on your return from the north, and for this work to be carried out satisfactorily you should return to Dry Valley not later than the first week of January. I do not wish to limit you to an exact date for return to Dry Valley if you think that by lengthening your stay up north you can reach the Magnetic Pole, but you must not delay if time is short on your way south again to do geological work. I consider that the thorough investigation of Dry Valley is of supreme importance. (Instructions for Northern Sledge-party under Command of Professor E. David, dated Cape Royds, September 19, 1908)
(8) ... In the event of any accident happening to you, Mawson is to be in charge of the party.
All food supplies and equipment for the expedition were to be taken on two sledges which the three men were to haul themselves.
Professor David was 50 years old, an eminent scientist, a man of great public standing and, by all accounts, a very courteous, tactful and wise man.
Alistair Forbes Mackay was 30 years old, a Scottish doctor with an inclination towards a regimented life — he had been a trooper in South Africa, served with Baden Powell's police, was then a civil surgeon at the front, and later entered the navy as a surgeon and retired from it to join Shackleton's Antarctic expedition.
Notes on Doings of Northern Party
The Professor wished to start near beginning of September. Finally arranged a preliminary depot trip to commence on 10th September to Granite Harbour including Professor, Priestley and Mackay.
(Continues...)
Excerpted from Mawson's Antarctic Diaries by Fred Jacka, Eleanor Jacka. Copyright © 2001 South Australian Museum. Excerpted by permission of Allen & Unwin.
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Table of Contents
Contents
List of Illustrations,Preface,
Editors' Notes,
Inventory of Diary Notebooks,
Introduction,
Part I: British Antarctic Expedition (December 1907 – February 1909),
The Voyage South,
Heading (Magnetic) South,
Hard Slog to the South Magnetic Pole,
Return Journey,
Postscript,
Part II: Australasian Antarctic Expedition (December 1911 – February 1914),
Preliminaries to the AAE,
First Days in Adélie Land,
Midwinter and After,
Spring Exploits,
Far-eastern Sledge Journey Across King George V Land,
The Return,
Editors' Note,
A Second Wintering,
End of the Second Year,
Postscript,
Part III: British, Australian and New Zealand Antarctic Research Expedition — First Voyage (October 1929 – April 1930),
Background,
The Crozets, Kerguelen and Heard Islands,
To Mac-Robertson, Kemp and Enderby Lands,
Discoveries,
Results of First Voyage,
Part IV: British, Australian and New Zealand Antarctic Research Expedition — Second Voyage (November 1930 – March 1931),
Preparations,
The Second Voyage,
After BANZARE,
Appendix 1,
Appendix 2,
Appendix 3,
Appendix 4,
Bibliography,
Index,