From acclaimed journalist Sophy Roberts, a journey through one of the harshest landscapes on earth—where music reveals the deep humanity and the rich history of Siberia
Siberia’s story is traditionally one of exiles, penal colonies and unmarked graves. Yet there is another tale to tell.
Dotted throughout this remote land are pianos—grand instruments created during the boom years of the nineteenth century, as well as humble, Soviet-made uprights that found their way into equally modest homes. They tell the story of how, ever since entering Russian culture under the westernizing influence of Catherine the Great, piano music has run through the country like blood.
How these pianos traveled into this snow-bound wilderness in the first place is testament to noble acts of fortitude by governors, adventurers and exiles. Siberian pianos have accomplished extraordinary feats, from the instrument that Maria Volkonsky, wife of an exiled Decembrist revolutionary, used to spread music east of the Urals, to those that brought reprieve to the Soviet Gulag. That these instruments might still exist in such a hostile landscape is remarkable. That they are still capable of making music in far-flung villages is nothing less than a miracle.
The Lost Pianos of Siberia is largely a story of music in this fascinating place, fol-lowing Roberts on a three-year adventure as she tracks a number of different instruments to find one whose history is definitively Siberian. Her journey reveals a desolate land inhabited by wild tigers and deeply shaped by its dark history, yet one that is also profoundly beautiful—and peppered with pianos.
Sophy Roberts is a British writer whose work focuses on remote travel. She began her career assisting the writer Jessica Mitford, was an English scholar at Oxford University, and trained in journalism at Columbia University. She regularly contributes to the Financial Times and Condé Nast Traveler. The Lost Pianos of Siberia is her first book.
Table of Contents
Map of Russia x
Author's Note 1
Part 1 Pianomania • 1762-1917
1 Music in a Sleeping Land: Sibir 11
2 Traces in the Snow: Khabarovsk 38
3 Siberia is 'Civilized': St Petersburg to the Pacific 53
4 The Paris of Siberia: Irkutsk 68
5 Pianos in a Sandy Venice: Kiakhta 92
6 The Sound of Chopin's Poland: Tomsk 108
7 Home in a Hundred Years: Sakhalin Island 127
Part 2 Broken Chords • 1917-1991
8 The Last Tsar's Piano: The Urals 149
9 The End of Everything: The Altai Mountains 176
10 The Moscow of the East: Harbin 190
11 Beethoven in a Red Chum: The Yamal Peninsula 202
12 Music in the Gulag Archipelago: Kolyma 222
13 The Siberian Colosseum: Novosibirsk 235
14 Vera's Mühlbach: Akademgorodok 258
Part 3 Goodness Knows Where • 1992-Present Day
15 A Game of Risk: Kamchatka 283
16 Siberia's Last Piano: The Commanders to the Kurils 304