Knock It Off: A History of Design Piracy in the US Women's Ready-to-Wear Apparel Industry

The ready-to-wear apparel industry thrives on creating a presumably original design that is then interpreted into copies. Called design piracy by some and the knock-off process by most in the industry, copying fashion designs is a firmly embedded business strategy that predates even the advent of women's ready-to-wear in the late nineteenth century. Historically, some industry organizations and individual designers accepted and supported copying as crucial to the transmission of fashion; others strove to prevent the practice, arguing harms ranging from lost profits to the abuse of labor. Threaded through the complicated and fascinating history of US ready-to-wear fashion are more than eighty attempts to legislate for design protection, and countless efforts to stymie piracy through patents, trademarking, or industry self-regulation. The authors analyze legal and apparel industry documents; governmental reports; and their own primary research conducted in museums, archives, and special collections to shed light on arguments both for and against design piracy. Knock It Off puts into perspective the conflicting interests that have always set fashion design apart from other creative works and continue to make the industry an endlessly perplexing and risky business.

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Knock It Off: A History of Design Piracy in the US Women's Ready-to-Wear Apparel Industry

The ready-to-wear apparel industry thrives on creating a presumably original design that is then interpreted into copies. Called design piracy by some and the knock-off process by most in the industry, copying fashion designs is a firmly embedded business strategy that predates even the advent of women's ready-to-wear in the late nineteenth century. Historically, some industry organizations and individual designers accepted and supported copying as crucial to the transmission of fashion; others strove to prevent the practice, arguing harms ranging from lost profits to the abuse of labor. Threaded through the complicated and fascinating history of US ready-to-wear fashion are more than eighty attempts to legislate for design protection, and countless efforts to stymie piracy through patents, trademarking, or industry self-regulation. The authors analyze legal and apparel industry documents; governmental reports; and their own primary research conducted in museums, archives, and special collections to shed light on arguments both for and against design piracy. Knock It Off puts into perspective the conflicting interests that have always set fashion design apart from other creative works and continue to make the industry an endlessly perplexing and risky business.

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Knock It Off: A History of Design Piracy in the US Women's Ready-to-Wear Apparel Industry

Knock It Off: A History of Design Piracy in the US Women's Ready-to-Wear Apparel Industry

Knock It Off: A History of Design Piracy in the US Women's Ready-to-Wear Apparel Industry

Knock It Off: A History of Design Piracy in the US Women's Ready-to-Wear Apparel Industry

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Overview

The ready-to-wear apparel industry thrives on creating a presumably original design that is then interpreted into copies. Called design piracy by some and the knock-off process by most in the industry, copying fashion designs is a firmly embedded business strategy that predates even the advent of women's ready-to-wear in the late nineteenth century. Historically, some industry organizations and individual designers accepted and supported copying as crucial to the transmission of fashion; others strove to prevent the practice, arguing harms ranging from lost profits to the abuse of labor. Threaded through the complicated and fascinating history of US ready-to-wear fashion are more than eighty attempts to legislate for design protection, and countless efforts to stymie piracy through patents, trademarking, or industry self-regulation. The authors analyze legal and apparel industry documents; governmental reports; and their own primary research conducted in museums, archives, and special collections to shed light on arguments both for and against design piracy. Knock It Off puts into perspective the conflicting interests that have always set fashion design apart from other creative works and continue to make the industry an endlessly perplexing and risky business.


Product Details

ISBN-13: 9780896729667
Publisher: Texas Tech University Press
Publication date: 05/05/2016
Series: Costume Society of America Series
Pages: 240
Product dimensions: 6.00(w) x 8.90(h) x 0.70(d)

About the Author

Sara B. Marcketti is an associate professor in the Apparel, Events, and Hospitality Management Department at Iowa State University and the Associate Director of Scholarship of Teaching and Learning at the Center for Excellence in Learning and Teaching. She is coauthor of Survey of Historic Costume, sixth edition.

Jean L. Parsons is an Associate Professor at the University of Missouri in the Textile and Apparel Management Department and coauthor of 20th-Century Dress in the United States.

Table of Contents

Illustrations vii

Introduction xi

Chapter 1 Historical Overview of Evolving Design Protection Efforts 3

Chapter 2 Design Piracy from a Legal Perspective 16

Available Legal Protection 18

Copyright

Patents: Utility and Design

Trademarks

Bills Submitted to Congress for Design Protection 28

Industry Efforts 33

Chapter 3 Origins of Design Piracy in the US Women's Ready-to-Wear Apparel Industry 36

Women's Ready-to-Wear: Rise of the Trade 37

Style Change and Competition 41

A New Industry Organization 43

The New Fashion Consumer 46

Cultivating a Style Industry 50

Chapter 4 Development and Promotion of a US Design Presence 55

Fashion Design for the US Ready-to-Wear Market 55

Industry Organization

French Fashion Industry Dominance

The False French Label

Creating Demand for an American Style 70

American Designers and Stylists 75

Educating American Designers

Promoting American Designers

Protecting American Design

Chapter 5 Design Piracy and Self-Regulation: The Fashion Originators' Guild of America 98

Impact of the Great Depression 98

The Fashion Originators' Guild of America 101

Chapter 6 Design Protection Arguments 112

Enforcement 113

Cost-Benefit Perspectives 114

Consumers' Entitlement to Fashion 117

The Industry Perspective 123

The Industry: Manufacturers

The Industry: Retailers

The Industry: Labor

Chapter 7 The Fashion Originators' Guild of America: Controversy and Defeat 130

New Regulations and Controversial Policies 130

Legal Battles 135

Did the FOGA Monopolize the Industry? 142

Chapter 8 Original, Adaptation, Copy, Reproduction? 145

Appendix: FOGA Officers and Members, 1936 153

Notes 157

Sources 193

Index 203

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