Table of Contents
Introduction Jill Norman ix
Kitchens and their Cooks 1
Elizabeth David's 'Dream' Kitchen 7
How Publishers like to have their Cake and Eat it 12
Scoff Gaffe 15
Stocks and Soups
The Oxo Story 17
Taking Stock 23
The Making of Broths and Stocks 27
Recipes 31
Yogurt 37
Salads and First Courses
Summer Greenery 39
Leaf Salads 45
Crudités 48
Recipes 49
Vegetables
Garlic Presses are Utterly Useless 51
Tians 53
Le Rouge et le Noir 57
Erbaggi Mantovani: Vegetables of Mantua 60
Home Cooking 67
The Great English Aphrodisiac 70
Recipes 74
Herbs and Spices
The Besprinkling of a Rosemary Branch 84
Herbs, Fresh and Dried 87
Green Pepper Berries 88
Is there a Nutmeg in the House? 93
Recipes 95
Relishes of the Renaissance 97
Italian Fruit Mustards 102
A True Gentlewoman's Delight 108
Eggs
Quiche Lorraine 117
Hand-made Mayonnaise 122
Poached Eggs 127
Recipes 129
One William Verral 132
Pasta and Rice
Edible Maccheroni 136
Do not Despair over Rice 142
How Versatile is Risotto? 148
Recipes 149
Letter to George Elliot 151
Mistress Margaret Dods 152
Fish
Kedgeree 157
Recipes 158
Two Cooks 163
Letter to Jack Andrews and John Flint 168
Meat
Christmas in France 168
Untraditional Christmas Food 171
Recipes 176
John Nott 187
Poultry and Game
What to do with the Bird? 198
Recipes 201
Alexis Soyer 209
Perfumed Toothpicks and Table-hopping Birds 214
Bread and Pizza
The Baking of an English Loaf 217
Recipes 227
Variations of Pizza 232
Banketting Stuffe 237
Desserts
Caramel Desserts 242
Crème brûlée 247
In Pescod Time … I went to gather
Strawberries 252
Recipes 256
Ice Creams and Sorbets
Hunt the Ice Cream 265
Making Ice Cream 272
Ice Cream Recipes 275
Pomegranates Pink 285
Sorbet Recipes 288
The Madeira Era 293
Letter to Gerald Asher 299
Epilogue 302
Bibliography 308
Index 310