Hiking the West Coast Trail: A Pocket Guide

by Tim Leadem

Overview

The West Coast Trail, which traverses 50 miles of gorgeous Northwest Canadian coastline, has been dubbed the “Graveyard of the Pacific,” having claimed 60 ships since 1854. Tim Leadem, who’s hiked it many times, shows readers how to make the most of this demanding trail. The book contains two-color maps covering trailhead to terminus; checklists for food, clothing, and gear; easy reference charts for navigating tricky tidal areas; and a brief text describing the historical, cultural, and geological highlights along the way.

Product Details

ISBN-13:	9781926706412
Publisher:	Greystone Books
Publication date:	12/01/2009
Sold by:	Barnes & Noble
Format:	eBook
Pages:	88
File size:	762 KB

About the Author

Tim Leadem is a lawyer by profession and a member of the bar in British Columbia. An avid hiker and climber for over 30 years, he has hiked in locations all over the globe, but especially in British Columbia and on Vancouver Island. He also holds a master’s degree in zoology. The author of Hiking the West Coast of Vancouver Island, he lives in North Saanich, British Columbia.

Read an Excerpt

Gordon River to Camper Bay

Distance: 13 km (8 miles)
Time: 7.5–8.5 hours
Rating: Difficult
Features: Industrial artifact, ocean views, option of beach hiking with waterfall
Hazards: Cliffs, steep sections, restricted beach access, surge channels, ladders (optional), cable car crossing

This southern part of the trail is often called the most difficult. It features elevation changes, and until you start eating your packed provisions, your pack will be the heaviest for this portion. If you arrive at the trailhead early enough to receive your briefing orientation or you had it the day before, you can make it from Gordon River to Camper Bay in one day. If you start later in the day, don’t despair, since excellent camping awaits you at Thrasher Cove . . .
Trailhead to Thrasher Cove: The trail starts at kilometer 75 and ascends to 700 meters (2,300 feet). Generally the trail is in good shape in this section, recent improvements to stream crossings and the addition of stairs having lessened the overall difficulty.
From Gordon River to Thrasher Cove, the trail stays in the forest, well away and up from the coastline. The coastal route is impassable because of cliffs. Any difficulties you encounter on the southern part of the trail will mainly depend on the weather. If it has been rainy, you should expect mud of varying depths, and all log crossings and boardwalks will be slippery. The hiking is mostly on flat ground or up-and-down terrain. When you pass the old donkey engine, a relic of earlier logging, you will be about halfway to Thrasher Cove. Note that the forest around the southern portion of the trail is second growth and contains dense underbrush that is not found on other parts of the trail. From the halfway point to Thrasher Cove the climbs become steeper. Openings in the forest may yield superb views of Port San Juan and the distant Olympic Mountains in Washington.
A good campsite is located about 5 meters (16 feet) off the main trail at its highest point; follow a huge log and an old logging cable. The site accommodates at least four tents and has a fine view of the ocean and the Olympic Mountains. The nearest fresh water is about 150 meters (500 feet) away, however, at a stream that may run dry in summer and which lies at the bottom of a steep path. So if you plan to camp at this site, fill your water bottles (and treat or filter that water) at one of the streams after passing the donkey engine.
After the high point, the trail drops steeply to a small creek called Log Jam Creek, with a bridge across it. After the creek you reach an intersection. Thrasher Cove is to the left down a steep trail with a series of ladders. Great camping awaits at Thrasher Cove, which has a good water supply from Hobbs Creek. From Thrasher Cove you have a choice of two routes to Camper Bay: along the beach or through the forest.
Beach route: The beach route can only be done if the tides are low enough to get around Owen Point (1.8 meters/6 feet or lower). Keep in mind that it will take you about 2 hours from Thrasher Cove to reach Owen Point. The most strenuous and difficult beach scrambling awaits you for the first few kilometers out of the cove. You will be hiking amid boulders that get progressively larger. These boulders are often encrusted with slippery algae, so exercise caution in this section. I do not recommend this option for novices.
Once you reach the end of the boulders, the hiking gets better, with some pocket beaches and a lovely waterfall at Cleft Falls. This area is highly photogenic and worth a bit of a rest if you can budget your time to get around Owen Point on a low tide. Owen Point is an incredible area that looks like a moonscape, with lots of cratered and pocked rocks. If your route around the point is blocked by the sea, there is a steep, rope-assisted access trail up and over the point itself. However, you will find this very taxing, so I suggest you walk around the point, preferably on an outgoing tide.
Past Owen Point the walking is along flat, level sandstone shelf until you reach one of three beach access trails that will reconnect you with the trail in the forest. This section of sandstone shelf may be hiked at tides lower than 2.4 meters (7.8 feet) between the first two beach access trails. To safely reach the third and final access trail, make sure the tide will be lower than 1.7 meters (5.6 feet). The three access points are near kilometer markers 66, 65, and 64. Note that it will be impossible for you to regain the trail at any other place due to the cliffs that line the beach. Also there are a few surge channels that may pose some problems. The major one is between the second and third access trails. If you are inexperienced, I recommend you take the second beach access point to regain the trail. It is not possible to hike all the way along the beach to Camper Bay.
Forest route: If you havve higgggggh tides or simply want to avoid the slippery bouulders with your heavy pack, then the forest trail from Thrasher Cove towards Camper Bay is for you. If you have camped at Thrasher you will have to regain all the altitude you lost the day before, so be prepared for a lot of work first thing after you break camp.
At the junction near kilometer marker 70, head west for Camper Bay. The trail in this section traverses boardwalk and muddy sections through the old-growth forest. At 150 Yard Creek there is a small place where you can pitch a tent or two in the event that you need to use it. The first beach access trail is a few minutes past this creek. If the tides are low enough (below 2.4 meters/7.8 feet), then you can hike along the sandstone shelf until you reach the next access point. From that point the tides need to be lower than 1.7 meters (5.6 feet) for you to reach the last beach access trail. Generally hikers prefer the easy, level sandstone shelf to the forest route. However, there is a surge channel that is somewhat problematic between the second and third beach access points. Also the last beach access trail is fairly steep and is recommended for experienced hikers only.
Once you regain the trail, continue along the well-trod path until you reach Camper Creek. Along the way you will cross Trisle Creek and the formerly infamous and difficult blowdown area. In times past the route through here was atop large fallen trees perched about 10 meters (30 feet) off the surface of the forest floor. Now your route is less dangerous but still a bit winding among the dead, fallen timber.
At Camper Creek you may choose to wade across if the creek is low enough. If it is too high, then take the cable car crossing to the opposite bank. Camper Bay is a good campsite. Like other good sites, however, it tends to become overcrowded during peak season (June to August). It bears repeating that you are in a wilderness area and are directly responsible for disposal of the waste you create. The cabin at Camper Bay is for the Native trail guardians with the Quu’as program. Do not bother them unless you have an emergency or wish to report a major maintenance problem you have encountered on the trail.

Table of Contents

Introduction
Gordon River to Camper Bay
Camper Bay to Walbran Creek
Walbran Creek to Cribs Creek
Cribs Creek to Tsusiat Falls
Tsusiat Falls to Darling River
Darling River to Pachena Bay
Acknowledgments
For Further Reading

Note: This book covers both directions, North to South and South to North, so for the other direction, the table of contents is reversed.