Hiking North Carolina: A Guide to More Than 500 of North Carolina's Greatest Hiking Trails

by Randy Johnson

Overview

In March 2021, Hiking North Carolina, 4th edition received a bronze award in the "best travel book or guide" category from the North American Travel Journalists Association competition.

With full color photographs and maps, this thoroughly updated and revised fourth edition is a guide to more than 500 hiking trails in all regions of the state, from the Great Smokies and the Blue Ridge Parkway to the Piedmont and the Outer Banks.

Product Details

ISBN-13:	9781493046003
Publisher:	Rowman & Littlefield Publishers, Inc.
Publication date:	06/01/2020
Series:	State Hiking Guides Series
Edition description:	Fourth Edition
Pages:	384
Sales rank:	416,571
Product dimensions:	5.90(w) x 8.90(h) x 0.80(d)

About the Author

Randy Johnson has lived in the Southern Appalachians most of his life and has written widely for national newspapers and ski and travel magazines, often on the topic of North Carolina’s outdoors.For years he was editor-in-chief of United Airlines’ Hemispheres, then the United States’ most award-winning in-flight magazine. Randy has hiked and skied all over the world and is a member of the Society of American Travel Writers and the North American Snowsports Journalists Association. He is also the author of Hiking Virginia, Hiking the Blue Ridge Parkway, Best Easy Day Hikes Blue Ridge Parkway, and Southern Snow: The Winter Guide to Dixie. Visit his Web site at www.randyjohnsonbooks.com to see special features relating to his books.

Read an Excerpt

Hiking North Carolina

A Guide to More Than 500 of North Carolina's Greatest Hiking Trails

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By Randy Johnson

Rowman & Littlefield Publishing Group, Inc

Copyright © 2016 Rowman & Littlefield
All rights reserved.
ISBN: 978-0-7627-8477-6

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CHAPTER 1

Appalachian Trail

Each spring, hundreds of people hoist heavy packs onto their backs and strain down a misty trail, intent on accomplishing the most difficult task of their lives: going the length of the Appalachian Mountains. The footpath links a tree-covered mountaintop in Georgia and a rock-capped summit in central Maine. The trail winds for 300 miles across western North Carolina, home to some of its highest elevations and most spectacular scenery. Nearly 70 years old, the Appalachian Trail (AT) was the first organized recreational avenue to wilderness. Today there are many long-distance trails, but none equals the AT.

When first proposed in 1921 by regional planner Benton MacKaye, the idea for a cross-Appalachian trail was labeled "an experiment in regional planning." Actually, it was a philosophical experiment too, intended to dilute the hold that industrialism had on modern life. The AT would preserve the East's wilderness while offering the laboring masses an uplifting escape from the manufacturing economy. Many people recognized that the unspoiled Appalachians — so different from other denuded and eroded lands — were at stake. And trail enthusiasts liked the idea of the path itself.

Creating the AT was a large task. Within two years of MacKaye's first article proposing the AT, the major trail organizations, including fledgling groups in the South, had endorsed the plan and built the first sections of the AT in New England. In 1925 a meeting held in Washington, DC, formally created the Appalachian Trail Conference Incorporated, forerunner of the organization that manages the path today; the conference's name was changed to the Appalachian Trail Conservancy (ATC) in 2005. At these early stages, MacKaye's philosophical bent still shaped the trail's future; he announced at the conference that "the trailway should 'open up' a country as an escape from civilization. … The path of the trailway should be as 'pathless' as possible."

In the late 1920s that's exactly how it was. The original route plan led from Cohutta Mountain in Georgia, across the Great Smoky Mountains, to Grandfather Mountain in North Carolina, through southwestern Virginia, across the Blue Ridge Mountains at what is now Shenandoah National Park, and on to its northern terminus at Mount Washington in New Hampshire. With railroad imagery fostered by MacKaye, the trail's "main line" described above would link to various "branch lines." In the South, feeder trails were meant to reach Birmingham and Atlanta, funneling jaded urban workers into the refreshing green corridor of renewal. North Carolina's Mountains-to-Sea Trail and the Bartram Trail are examples of branch lines that did come about.

In reality, the AT was built largely out of existing trails in the North and through unexpected devotion from trail clubs and the USDA Forest Service in the South. The Southern Appalachian section was finished quickly, surprising New Englanders, who felt sure their region's trail clubs would be the most active. The Southerners helped build other sections too: The Potomac Appalachian Trail Club was instrumental in completing the trail through Maine to Mount Katahdin.

During AT construction, nearly 600 miles of the Skyline Drive and the Blue Ridge Parkway were built, claiming dozens of miles of the AT's early route. Many trail clubs opposed building those roads. Luckily, the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) was enlisted to revise the route and build some of the three-sided lean-to shelters that line the trail. Nevertheless, Appalachian Trail Conference chairman Myron Avery called the scenic roads a "major catastrophe in Appalachian Trail history." Today, we nod at Avery's assertions. Although the Parkway boasts wonderful hiking opportunities, its leg-stretcher hikes do not a wilderness experience make. (See this author's Blue Ridge Parkway trail guides.)

The trail, in any form, became a symbol. Long before wilderness preservation was ever achieved in the East, diehard trail builders helped protect remnants of a wild heritage. By 1937 the first version of the trail was complete. Thousands of minor catastrophes and positive changes have happened since then. The bad events range from hurricanes to commercial development of private land, all claiming portions of the trail. The good occurrences come too, since at each time of loss, a new generation of trail enthusiasts has stepped in and carved a new path. The extension of the trail to Mount Katahdin, originally a branch site rather than a terminus, was one of thousands of changes that qualify the AT as a living entity. It was Myron Avery who said that the AT was the trail of which it could never be said, "It is finished — this is the end!"

The Appalachian Trail started as, and remains, an effort spearheaded by the public. But the Appalachian Trail Conservancy also enlisted the support and cooperation of the national parks, national forests, state parks, and other agencies and individuals. Since 1938, when a minimum width was established for the trail corridor through federal land, the extent of cooperation between AT enthusiasts and the government has been astounding. In 1968 the AT became the first National Scenic Trail under the landmark National Trails System Act, which gave control to the Appalachian Trail Conference. It also authorized the acquisition of 1,000 miles of trail in private hands, by eminent domain if necessary. But acquisition of land was slow. After pressure from the trail community, an Appalachian Trail bill passed Congress in the late 1970s that has substantially sped up land acquisition along the route. Today, almost all of the path is in public ownership.

The trail has elevated some isolated mountain burgs into backcountry boom-towns. Hikers bring thousands of dollars into towns lacking mainstream tourist attractions. Hot Springs, North Carolina, is one place swelled by trail traffic. "The Appalachian Trail passes within 5 miles of 105 towns," says Brian King, Appalachian Trail Conservancy spokesman. "Many of those towns see the trail as their primary tourist attraction. Just the money spent on gas, food, and lodging is a significant transfer of wealth from urban areas to the Appalachians."

Maintenance of the path never wanes and is accomplished through the efforts of thirty-one organizations affiliated with the Appalachian Trail Conservancy. The conservancy boasts 40,000 members and thirty affiliated clubs. Many times each year, volunteers toil long hours in the task of maintaining their portions of the footpath and any of nearly 300 overnight shelters on the route. All told, about 6,000 volunteers work more than 200,000 hours each year on the path.

Because of such necessary efforts, the heart of the most populous part of the United States is today a forest trail. This premier hiking path is a world-class adventure covering about 2,189 miles. Only 500 or so people a year finish the complete hike over the loftiest mountains in eastern North America. In fact, those who have accomplished the entire feat number fewer than 10,000. Millions of hikers hit the trail annually, for a short stroll, a summit hike, or a multi-night backpacking trip. The Appalachian Trail in North Carolina is a wonderful string of day hikes. The best are presented below.

The perils of the nearly 2,200-mile trek might be unimaginable to sedentary Americans. If the sheer physical task weren't arduous enough, equipment and its failures pose other problems. If you've ever had a blister from new hiking boots, imagine having boot problems as you walk 10 or more miles daily. Even when a hiker's boots are comfortable, they wear out or fall apart on the trek, often at the least opportune time. That kind of roulette plagues everything a hiker relies on, from a backpacking stove to a tent to a sleeping bag.

The end-to-end AT hiker ultimately discovers that the human body is just another piece of equipment bound to fail. Most people find a three-or four-day backpacking trip to be an ample undertaking; imagine walking for an entire summer. An end-to-end hike on the AT is a Herculean undertaking. And not everybody makes it.

Luckily, even an AT day hike is rewarding. Within North Carolina alone, hikers pass through tree-covered, modest mountains that conjure the Appalachians of stereotype. They see their share of poverty in these stark, rugged hills. But they also see some of the East's grandest, most spectacular views. And there is mud, cold summer rain, stinging spring snow, and just about everything else a mountain climate can deliver, including awesome solitude and pockets of virgin wilderness.

Almost a century after the trail was begun, the philosophical uplift that MacKaye hoped for has taken place. Our current outdoor lifestyle and environmental consciousness are traceable in part to the existence of the Appalachian Trail and the wildlands that enclose it. The path's enduring grandeur inspires generation after generation of hikers. Perhaps more than any other recreational facility in the world, the Appalachian Trail symbolizes the power of nature to work wonders in the hearts and minds of those who take the time to wander in the woods.

Besides becoming a member of the ATC, a worthwhile step to consider, North Carolinians also support many other groups that nurture the state's parks, forests, and seashores. Many of these organizations offer a fun way to fund them — buy a license plate! Attractive custom plates are available, and each generates funds for the organization. The author's own AT plate reads "CLMB."

How to Use the AT Mileage Log

The mileage log and entries that follow are more than a list of landmarks on the Appalachian Trail in North Carolina. Included are detailed recommendations for day hikes and backpacking trips that are among the best in North Carolina and the East. Also included are suggested side trails and circuits, including one wheelchair-accessible trail, so be sure to scan this important section. Mileages are given for recommended hikes, but just grab a pencil and calculator to customize the log for hikes of your choice.

1A Southern Balds

The section of the Appalachian Trail that enters North Carolina starts in the north and immediately crosses the meadow-covered mountaintops called the Southern Balds (see Roan Mountain for more detail on the balds). This is the most-alpine scenery in the region, with great backpacking and day-hiking opportunities.

General location: Between Bakersville and Elk Park

Distance: Round-trip day hikes from Carvers Gap: 1.4 miles to Round Bald; 2.8 miles to Jane Bald; 3.8 miles to Grassy Ridge Bald. Round- trip hikes from Yellow Mountain Gap: 3.2 miles to views near Little Hump Mountain; 8 miles to Hump Mountain (10.8 miles from US 19E).

Difficulty: Moderately strenuous to nearby mountaintops; very strenuous for lengthy day hikes or a backpack of the entire ridgetop, especially north to south

Maps: USGS Carvers Gap, Elk Park, and White Rocks Mountain; Appalachian Trail Conservancy AT map and guide

Elevation gain: 2,200 feet south to north

Water availability: A water fountain and restroom are located 1.8 miles from Carvers Gap at the Roan Mountain Gardens forest service station, open late spring through early fall. There's a modern pit privy at Carvers Gap. Nearby water sources are in the community of Roan Mountain and Roan Mountain State Park. Near the Elk Park Trailhead, businesses can provide water. Water is also available at springs along the route.

For more information: Appalachian Ranger District, 632 Manor Road, Mars Hill 28754; [phone]; [e-mail]. Appalachian Trail Conservancy: appalachian trail.org.

Finding the trailhead: There are three AT trailheads. To reach the Elk Park Trailhead from Boone, go though Linville and Newland (or Banner Elk) to reach US 19E. Go 0.9 mile west of the state line to a small parking area on the left (GPS: 36.177425 / -82.011778).

To reach Carvers Gap, stay west on US 19E past the Elk Park Trailhead, then turn left on TN 143 in the town of Roan Mountain. Carvers Gap's roadside parking lot and privy are 14 miles from that junction (GPS: 36.106415 / -82.111234). From Asheville and more southerly areas, take NC 261 from Bakersville about 14 miles to Carvers Gap.

The Yellow Mountain Gap Trailhead is on US 19E south of Elk Park. Between Elk Park and Newland, take US 19E south toward Spruce Pine from the junction with NC 194. Go south past Minneapolis to a right on Roaring Creek Road at 8.6 miles. Keep right at all the forks to reach the trailhead below Yellow Mountain Gap, at about 5 miles (GPS: 36.117029 / - 82.048951).

Parking overnight along US 19E is not recommended. Try to arrange for pickup and drop-off. Winter access to the Carvers Gap and Roaring Creek Trailheads can be complicated by deep snow; they are a low priority for plowing.

The Hikes

The white-blazed Appalachian Trail traverses the entire ridge, sticking closely to the state line all the way. The trail is well marked, but the open terrain can provide substantial route-finding challenges in snow, fog, and rain. Use caution and take adequate maps. Expect unusual weather year-round. Though cool days are the norm in summer at these heights, high-altitude sun can be punishing, so take a hat and sunscreen.

Backpackers who intend to walk this section of the trail end to end should hike from south to north, since the trail descends in that direction from Carvers Gap (5,512 feet) to Elk Park (2,880 feet). Though graded, the steep 5-mile climb from Elk Park to Hump Mountain rises 2,700 feet, more than the entire elevation gain going north from Carvers Gap to Elk Park. From either direction, hikers find campsites plentiful in the grassy gaps lining the trail.

From Carvers Gap, cross the road and fence toward the grassy meadows of Round Bald. The recently rerouted trail switchbacks through scenic spruces to meadows and views in all directions atop Round Bald (5,826 feet), a summit resembling the broad end of an egg. This is a short 0.7 mile from Carvers Gap.

The trail descends to open Engine Gap at 1 mile, ascends to a rock outcrop at 1.3 miles, and reaches the Jane Bald summit (5,807 feet) at about 1.4 miles (nice turnaround points for a shorter view hike).

When the AT slides left, a side trail reaches Grassy Ridge, a bald summit with spectacular views at 6,000 feet. Continuing left, the AT plummets past a spring on the right at about 2 miles. The trail reaches a spur of Grassy Ridge then drops steeply left to Low Gap (5,000 feet) and Stan Murray Shelter at 3.7 miles. A side trail south of the ridge leads 100 yards to a spring.

The trail climbs over Elk Hollow Ridge then descends to Buckeye Gap. Hikers cross a nearly 5,000-foot summit with nice views at 4.8 miles. Bear right off the main ridge. At 5.6 miles the trail drops into Yellow Mountain Gap (4,682 feet). The Overmountain Victory Trail (OVT), a National Historic Trail, crosses the AT here. This is the route of colonists who defeated British colonel Patrick Ferguson's forces at the 1780 Battle of King's Mountain in South Carolina, a pivotal step in winning the Revolutionary War. To the right, the road-width colonial trace descends in about 0.7 mile to the Roaring Creek Road (NC 1132). A blue-blazed side trail leads right from just below the gap to a spring and a barn, the Overmountain Shelter, where campers may sleep in the loft and cook downstairs. This is another good starting point for day hikes or an overnighter south to the Stan Murray Shelter. Parking is about 0.7 mile southwest of the gap on Roaring Creek Road via a gated forest road that parallels the OVT.

(Continues...)

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Excerpted from Hiking North Carolina by Randy Johnson. Copyright © 2016 Rowman & Littlefield. Excerpted by permission of Rowman & Littlefield Publishing Group, Inc.
All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher.
Excerpts are provided by Dial-A-Book Inc. solely for the personal use of visitors to this web site.

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Table of Contents

Acknowledgments vii

Introduction viii

The Regions x

The Seasons xi

Being Prepared xiii

Selecting a Trail xiii

How to Use the Maps xiv

Don't Forget High Tech: The Web and GPS xiv

What to Carry xiv

Clothes xv

Footwear xvi

Weather Dangers xvi

Trailside Pests xvii

Zero-Impact Hiking xx

Hiking with Dogs xxi

Hiking with Kids xxii

Backcountry Etiquette xxii

Map Legend xxiv

The Hikes

Mountains

1 Appalachian Trail 2

1A Southern Balds 8

1B Hot Springs Area 14

1C Max Patch Area 16

1D Great Smoky Mountains National Park 18

1E Great Smokies' Newfound Gap Area 20

1F Stecoah Area 24

1G Wayah Bald/Standing Indian 28

2 Cumberland Knob Recreation Area 32

3 Stone Mountain State Park 36

4 Doughton Park 43

5 Mount Jefferson State Natural Area 52

6 E. B. Jeffress Park 55

7 Elk Knob State Park 59

8 The Boone Area 62

9 Julian Price Memorial Park 67

10 Moses Cone Memorial Park 73

11 Blowing Rock 82

12 Elk River Falls Trail 85

13 Roan Mountain 86

14 Tanawha Trail 92

15 Grandfather Mountain State Park and Attraction 95

16 Linville Area 105

17 Lost Cove Area 110

18 Harper Creek Area 117

19 Linville Gorge Wilderness 121

20 Linville Falls Recreation Area 129

21 Crabtree Meadows Recreation Area 134

22 Mount Mitchell 138

23 Craggy Gardens 147

24 Asheville 153

25 Chimney Rock State Park 157

26 Mount Pisgah Area 163

27 Shining Rock Wilderness 168

28 Graveyard Fields 178

29 Great Smoky Mountains National Park 181

30 Joyce Kilmer Memorial Forest 198

31 Highlands Area 200

Piedmont

32 Pilot Mountain State Park 208

33 Hanging Rock State Park 214

34 Winston-Salem 222

35 Greensboro 231

36 High Point 246

37 Eno River Area 251

38 Duke Forest 264

39 William B. Umstead State Park 269

40 Schenck Forest 273

41 Raleigh 277

42 South Mountains State Park 286

43 Uwharrie National Forest 293

44 Morrow Mountain State Park 303

45 Charlotte 307

46 Crowders Mountain State Park 315

Coast

47 Nags Head Woods Ecological Preserve 323

48 Cape Hatteras National Seashore 328

49 Cape Lookout National Seashore 335

50 Croatan National Forest 341

51 Bald Head Island 350

Appendix: Trail Finder 355

Hike Index 359

About the Author 360