Table of Contents
Foreword Hazel Moran ix
List of maps and diagrams xiv
List of illustrations xv
Part 1 Formative Years
1 Beginnings 3
2 Trial by Eiger 7
3 Tests and Traumas 18
4 North-West Frontier 32
5 The Learning Curve 45
6 Base Camp 58
Part 2 Home Ground: Scotland
7 The Munro-baggers 71
8 From Sea to Summit 85
9 Cuillin Highs 93
10 Twenty-four Hours with the Godfather 106
11 Running the Ridge 116
12 The Saving of Andy 123
13 Sea Stack Tours 132
Part 3 Alpine Adventures
14 Mont Blanc Dreams 145
15 The Matterhorn World 160
16 Two Nights on the Grandes Jorasses 176
17 Piz Badile 188
18 The Grépon Traverse 196
Part 4 Norwegian Lights
19 In the Hall of the Mountain King 209
20 The Roughest Bound 218
21 Midnight Mountains 226
Part 5 Indian Pioneer: The Himalaya
22 The Gateway of Winds 239
23 Shipton's Lost Valley 252
24 Journey to the Edge of Tibet 266
25 Kamet - One Step Too Far 278
26 East of Nanda 291
27 A Walk into Nowhere 304
Part 6 Reflections
28 A Job for Life 319
Appendix I Glossary of technical terms and climbing grades 323
Appendix II Qualifications in Mountain Guiding and Instruction 329
Acknowledgements 333
