Presenting all the information needed for new, or prospective, owners of longarm quilting systems to be successful, this guide is the perfect companion to the owner's manual of any short-, mid-, or longarm machine, regardless of the brand. New machine owners will find the information, tips, and tricks provided in this helpful resource invaluable, and it also troubleshoots common machine issues that can be easily fixed with a bit of knowledge. The book covers topics that include loading the machine, tension issues, products, threads, batting, and it even touches on the basics of operating a quilting business. Also provided is a glossary of terms and products.
Presenting all the information needed for new, or prospective, owners of longarm quilting systems to be successful, this guide is the perfect companion to the owner's manual of any short-, mid-, or longarm machine, regardless of the brand. New machine owners will find the information, tips, and tricks provided in this helpful resource invaluable, and it also troubleshoots common machine issues that can be easily fixed with a bit of knowledge. The book covers topics that include loading the machine, tension issues, products, threads, batting, and it even touches on the basics of operating a quilting business. Also provided is a glossary of terms and products.
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Overview
Presenting all the information needed for new, or prospective, owners of longarm quilting systems to be successful, this guide is the perfect companion to the owner's manual of any short-, mid-, or longarm machine, regardless of the brand. New machine owners will find the information, tips, and tricks provided in this helpful resource invaluable, and it also troubleshoots common machine issues that can be easily fixed with a bit of knowledge. The book covers topics that include loading the machine, tension issues, products, threads, batting, and it even touches on the basics of operating a quilting business. Also provided is a glossary of terms and products.
Product Details
| ISBN-13: | 9781596356221 |
|---|---|
| Publisher: | Annie's |
| Publication date: | 09/01/2014 |
| Sold by: | Barnes & Noble |
| Format: | eBook |
| Pages: | 56 |
| File size: | 14 MB |
| Note: | This product may take a few minutes to download. |
About the Author
Read an Excerpt
Fundamentals of Freehand Longarm Quilting
By Terri L. Watson, Carolyn S. Vagts, Matthew Owen
Annie's
Copyright © 2013 Annie'sAll rights reserved.
ISBN: 978-1-59635-622-1
CHAPTER 1
Types of Quilting Systems
There are many different types and brands of quilting systems available to quilters today. The choices can be confusing. Since this is a big monetary investment, you should research carefully to find the system that best fits your needs and pocketbook.
Stand-Up Systems
There are several different types of stand-up systems — longarm, midarm and shortarm. Industry standards define these systems by the length of the arm, which is the distance between the needle and the sewing head or the throat. With these systems, you are moving the machine head over the quilt layers to stitch a design.
Longarm Systems
A longarm stand-up system is generally a three-rail quilting system with a throat that measures 18" or more. The quilting area can range from 10" to more than 20". A longarm system includes a table-mounted frame that is 8–14 feet long and requires a large floor space. It can have front and rear handles on the stitching head.
Midarm Systems
A midarm stand-up system is generally a three-rail quilting system with a throat that measures approximately 12"–18". These machines may be mounted on a table or a frame. Some have both front and rear controls on the stitch head. The rear controls allow the quilter to use pantograph designs rather than depend exclusively on freehand quilting.
Shortarm Systems
A shortarm stand-up system is generally a three-rail quilting system with a throat that measures less than 12 inches. This type of system works well in a small space. It uses a smaller, less expensive frame designed for home use.
In the previous systems the quilt is "loaded" onto the machine by attaching the layers of the quilt to the rails or rollers that run along the system table. The layers of the quilt sandwich are rolled to expose the area of the quilt to be worked on. Quilting is done by moving the machine head over the layers of the fabric in some kind of pattern.
I work on a stitch-regulated system. That means the stitches per inch stay approximately the same no matter how fast or slow I am moving the machine head. This is helpful for a beginner because the machine will balance the stitch length according to the movement of the machine head to prevent long and short or even skipped stitches.
Non–stitch-regulated machines require a little longer learning curve. The needle goes up and down at the same speed no matter how fast you are moving the machine. If you move the machine head slowly the stitches are smaller than if you move the machine fast. You need to move the head at a consistent speed to keep the stitches the same size.
The learning curve for a non–stitch-regulated system will include learning how to maintain a steady speed of movement and learning the speed at which you are comfortable doing different designs. For example, you will probably want to use a faster stitch speed when doing a meander/stipple-type design than when you are stitching a more complicated one.
Sit-Down Systems
The machine head of a sit-down quilting system is set into a table with a throat space that is generally larger than the normal domestic sewing machine. There are no feed dogs, for ease of free-motion quilting, and there is no rail system. You quilt by moving the fabric under the needle instead of moving the needle over the fabric. It is similar to quilting on your regular sewing machine, but with more space for moving the quilt.
For the purposes of this book, we will be talking about stand-up systems.
Basic Parts of the Machine/Table
Machine head: This is the actual sewing machine. You control where it goes and what it does.
Electronic controls and handles (front and rear): These will be different for the various brands of sewing machines.
Throat space: The distance between the needle and the inside back of the machine is the throat space.
Thread path with various tensioners: The path the thread takes from the cone to the needle through all of the tensioners. Each brand of machine will have a slightly different thread path. Refer to your manual for specific instructions.
Thread cone/spool peg: Mount where cone or spool of thread sits.
CHAPTER 2Supplies
About Thread
When we talk about quilting thread we have a different agenda than a discussion of piecing thread. Thread for piecing should blend into the seams so it is not visible. Quilting thread is the ink in your pen that creates the quilting design. It has color and presence. Thick, thin, variegated, contrasting or matching — thread makes a statement on a quilt. Ask yourself what kind of statement you want to make.
Since the purpose of this book is to help you bond with your quilting system and to get you quilting, find a go-to thread that will run smoothly in your machine without breaks and shredding. Poly-wrapped, poly-core or long staple cotton threads are good choices. You do not need the frustration of thread issues while you are learning to use your quilting system.
Consult your machine dealer about the best machine- quilting threads for your system. Save specialty threads for later.
I have been fortunate to be able to run nearly any thread that is intended for high-speed machine quilting without many issues. Check the thread label or manufacturer's website for this information. My go-to threads are poly-wrapped, poly-core Omni by Superior Threads and Permacore by A&E. These are strong and come in nearly 200 colors.
If you are a cotton purist, I suggest trying Signature 100 percent cotton thread for machine quilting from A&E or King Tut from Superior Threads. Both of these are long-staple cotton, which stand up to the speed and tension of most quilting systems.
Many longarm quilters use the same thread in the bobbin as they use on top. You may want to start out that way and then try other combinations.
Most of the time I use Bottom Line by Superior Threads for my bobbin. It is a 60-weight lint-free, filament polyester thread. Because it is fine (thin), I can wind much more thread onto my bobbins, cutting down on bobbin changes. It is available in 55 colors, so I can generally find a color that will coordinate well with, if not match, any top thread I am using.
These are just a few suggestions to get you started. I use many other threads that require a little bit of tension tweaking or changing to a different-size needle. These include metallic, silk and invisible. It is best to have some experience before venturing into using specialty threads.
Thread Color
As for colors, I suggest that you take a look at the quilt tops you have waiting to be quilted. If you generally make bright colorful tops, you are going to want to start your thread collection with some bright, colorful threads. If your tops tend toward Civil War, reproduction and traditional, then off- white, tan, khaki and sage green might be your best options.
About Batting
When choosing batting for a quilt my main considerations are — how will the quilt be used and what kind of look am I going for?
The 100 percent cotton battings tend to "read" flat — the quilting stitches don't show as much — while the blends provide more loft, allowing the quilting stitches to show.
Some of the thinner cottons can be difficult to handle while loading the layers onto the machine. They can develop puckers and divots from your fingers as you are trying to load them. You can still use these thinner cotton battings, you just have to handle it with extra care.
You may have to do a little tugging and adjusting of the batting when you are advancing the quilt. A sturdy batting such as an 80/20 or 70/30 cotton/ polyester blend will stand up to this treatment. An 80/20 batting (80 percent cotton, 20 percent polyester) is my go-to batting for strength and stability. Since I am primarily talking about practice pieces in this book I suggest a non-fussy, cotton/poly blend batting available from most major batting manufacturers.
When you are working with actual quilt tops you may want to consider the merits of other types of batting.
Make sure that the batting you choose is rated for machine quilting. This information can be found on the package or label, and on the manufacturer's website.
Types of Batting
Wool is lightweight and gives more loft and definition to the quilting designs. There are some terrific machine-washable and -dryable wools on the market now.
Polyester batting has more loft and is generally the least expensive option. It doesn't require special care before or after use. Polyester batting may beard — meaning little pieces of fiber may come through to the top of the quilt. If using a white batting with black or very dark fabrics, this bearding could show.
Extra high-loft polyesters are generally used for comforters and are usually tied rather than quilted. Your hopping foot may end up pushing your layers around if the batting is too thick.
About Needles
Most longarm machines use multidirectional needles. These needles are designed and made specifically for more accurate stitching when moving the machine in any direction. They are extra strong to allow maximum flexibility and bending. The deep scarf (where the thread lies) helps prevent thread breakage, skipped stitches and puckering. — information found at www.superiorthreads.com
Consult your dealer and/or manual about the specific needles for your machine.
Some quilters change their needle with each new project. In most cases, you can use them longer than that. I change mine when I begin to hear a ticking sound as the needle enters the quilt sandwich or if I cannot remember when I changed it last!
Your Owner's Manual
It is important that you read your owner's manual; keep it close by your quilting system. Many of the answers to your questions can be found there. In addition, you will find maintenance information such as cleaning, oiling, changing needles, etc. Write your dealer's phone number on the cover. Having a good relationship with your dealer can mean the difference between enjoying your quilting system and fighting with it.
CHAPTER 3Finding Your Comfort Zone
Spending quality time bonding with your quilting system means you should spend a few hours at a time standing and quilting. It is important to be comfortable. Here are a few things to consider when it comes to comfort and quilting.
Machine Height
The height of your quilting system is important. Many people are surprised by the height of my system table. It took a little trial and error to get it right.
If it is too low and you are hunching to get close to your work, you are tiring your back. If it is too high and you are reaching up too much, you are likely to end up with sore arms.
Since I work on my system several hours at a time, I need to be very aware of my body's position. Even at the very best height for me, need to think about how I feel and do some stretching every so often. I confess that occasionally I get so involved in the quilting process that I forget to stretch and walk around until I get an achy reminder.
Flooring
Using a stand-up system means being on your feet. I was lucky enough to be able to create my studio from scratch by taking over and remodeling half of our basement.
I purchased tough industrial carpeting and the best pad for underneath it that I could find; this gave me a good cushion for heavy-duty wear and tear.
Adding industrial foam or rubber mats that run the length of your table is a good alternative when you are setting up a system in an already finished space.
Wear comfortable shoes with good support. I can tell you from experience that when I forget to wear comfortable shoes I can feel it in my legs after just a couple of hours.
Heating & Cooling
Maintain a comfortable temperature and humidity level in your quilting space. It is difficult to concentrate on quilting if you are too hot or too cold.
Humidity can affect the quality of your quilting stitch. Too much humidity can make the fabrics, batting and thread "grabby" instead of "glide-y," leading to skipped stitches or breaking threads. Too little humidity can create static electricity that can interfere with the electronics of your system.
Take Frequent Breaks
Trying to quilt when you are truly tired will magnify every tiny thing that isn't perfect. It is easy to become frustrated and cranky when tired. Have a good stretch and take a nap, or take a walk outside if you are not a napper. Come back to your machine later when you can enjoy it.
CHAPTER 4Practice, Practice, Practice
Drawing, Doodling & Otherwise Getting a Design Into Your Head
Please don't skip this very important step — doodling. Your machine head is like a giant pencil, and your needle is the lead. If you can create the design competently and consistently on paper, you will be able to recreate it more easily at the machine.
When you are contemplating a new design, your first task is to get the idea onto a dry-erase white-board or paper.
I have two sizes of dry-erase boards with different-color markers, and inexpensive newsprint pads with colored pens and pencils to doodle on. I generally start doodling a design on one of the dry-erase boards, trying to get a feel for the design without wasting paper. Then I transfer the design to the paper pads for a little more tweaking. Your first goal is to know where you are going and to be able to maintain consistency in the design's size, shape and density.
Your second goal is to be able to draw the design out without getting stuck in a corner or lost. Try to draw out your design without lifting your pen/pencil from the page/board. Simply pause and think — figure out where you are "stitching" next. Every time you lift your pen consider it a stop and start on a quilt.
Your third goal is to achieve an even density and/or consistency of size. You will get more consistent with practice. Pause every few minutes to see how well you are filling the space.
Practice Quilt Pieces
If you have decided to purchase a longarm quilting system you probably have a stack of quilt tops that you have been saving up, but set those aside for now. It is best to load a muslin quilt sandwich that you can play around on to get the feel of your system. You might also have to do some tweaking of your tension, and you don't want to be doing that on a real quilt if it can be avoided.
I confess that I loaded and re-loaded my first practice piece three times before I got it right. I had the manual open and followed it step by step — I still messed it up! By the time I loaded it successfully I was exhausted and had to take a break and get something to eat. It was not my best morning.
I recommend an inexpensive solid-color fabric like muslin, approximately 60" x 80" for the top and a 66" x 86" or 68" x 88" piece for the batting and backing. Your backing needs to be larger than the top to allow for pinning onto the leaders and clamping the sides. Use wide (90-inch) fabrics or piece regular- width fabrics to achieve the necessary size.
Please gather the following supplies for your practice piece.
• Muslin or solid-color fabric for top 60" x 80"
• Muslin or solid-color backing 66" x 86"–90"
• Two colors of thread that contrast with fabrics (one for the top and one for the bobbin — see About Thread on page 14)
• Batting 66" x 86" (I generally use an 80/20 cotton/poly blend — see About Batting on page 14)
• Small scissors for trimming threads (I use blunt-tip children's scissors at the machine. They help me avoid accidentally snipping fabric when I trim threads close to the quilt top.)
• Drawing pad and/or whiteboard
• Pen/pencil and/or dry-erase markers
(Continues...)
Excerpted from Fundamentals of Freehand Longarm Quilting by Terri L. Watson, Carolyn S. Vagts, Matthew Owen. Copyright © 2013 Annie's. Excerpted by permission of Annie's.
All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher.
Excerpts are provided by Dial-A-Book Inc. solely for the personal use of visitors to this web site.
Table of Contents
Contents
Meet Terri L. Watson,Introduction,
Types of Quilting Systems,
Basic Parts of the Machine/Table,
Supplies,
Finding Your Comfort Zone,
Practice, Practice, Practice,
Attaching the Quilt to the Leaders (or Loading),
Quilt Sandwich Tension,
Quilting,
Developing the Freehand Design,
Quilting As a Business,
Resource Guide,
Glossary of Terms, Slang & Otherwise Confusing Longarm Words,
Stitch Design Paths,
Notes,
Special Thanks,