Table of Contents
1 Experience Florence and Tuscany 7
24 Ultimate Experiences 8
What's Where 18
Best Hilltop Villages in Tuscany and Umbria 20
Free Things to Do in Florence 22
What to Eat and Drink 24
10 Best Museums in Florence 26
What to Read and Watch Before Your Trip 28
Florence and Tuscany Today 30
2 Travel Smart 39
Know Before You Go 40
Getting Here and Around 42
Essentials 50
Helpful Italian Phrases 58
Great Itineraries 60
Tours and Events 62
Contacts 63
3 Florence 65
Welcome to Florence 66
Eating and Drinking
Well in Florence 68
Planning 71
Around the Duomo 75
San Lorenzo 98
Santa Maria Novella 109
Santa Croce 119
The Oltrarno 131
Side Trips from Florence 142
4 Pisa, Lucca, and Northwest Tuscany 145
Welcome to Pisa, Lucca, and Northwest Tuscany 146
Planning 149
Montelupo 150
Empoli 152
Vinci 154
San Miniato 154
Pisa 162
Prato 168
Pistoia 170
Montecatini Terme 173
Lucca 174
San Marcello Pistoiese 183
Abetone 184
Bagni di Lucca 185
Barga 186
Castelnuovo di Garfagnana 187
Livorno 188
Viareggio 190
Forte dei Marmi 192
Carrara 193
5 Chianti, Siena, and Central Tuscany 195
Welcome to Chianti, Siena, and Central Tuscany 196
Planning 199
Chianti 201
Siena 221
Monteriggioni 235
Colle di Val d'Elsa 236
San Gimignano 238
Volterra 244
6 Arezzo, Cortona, and Eastern Tuscany 249
Welcome to Arezzo, Cortona, and Eastern Tuscany 250
Planning 253
Arezzo 254
Cortona 260
Sansepolcro 263
Parco Nazionale Casentino 264
Sacro Eremo e Monastero di Camaldoli 264
Santuario della Verna 265
7 Southern Tuscany 267
Welcome to Southern Tuscany 268
Planning 271
Chiusi 272
Chianciano Terme 274
Montepulciano 276
Pienza 279
San Quirico d'Orcia 281
Bagno Vignoni 282
Montalcino 282
Abbazia di Sant'Antimo 284
Buonconvento 284
Abbazia di Monte Oliveto Maggiore 285
Asciano 286
Monte Amiata 286
Sorano 287
Pitigliano 288
Sovana 290
Saturnia 291
Parco Naturale della Maremma 292
Monte Argentario 293
Massa Marittima 294
Abbazia di San Galgano 295
Giglio 296
Elba 297
Capraia 300
8 Umbria and the Marches 301
Welcome to Umbria and the Marches 302
Eating and Drinking Well in Umbria and the Marches 304
Planning 306
Perugia 308
Assisi 315
Guhbio 322
Deruta 324
Spello 325
Montefalco 326
Spoleto 327
The Valnerina 333
Todi 334
Orvieto 336
Urbino 338
Loreto 340
Ascoli Piceno 341
Index 343
About Our Writers 352
Maps
Central Italy 61
Around the Duomo 76-77
San Lorenzo 100-101
Santa Maria Novella 110-111
Santa Croce 120-121
The Oltrarno 132-133
Side Trips from Florence 143
Towns West of Florence 153
Pisa 163
Lucca 175
The Garfagnana and the Northwest Coast 184
Chianti 203
Siena 224
Hill Towns West of Siena 236
San Gimignano 239
Volterra 245
Arezzo 255
Cortona 261
Val d'Orcia and the Crete 273
The Maremma and the Tuscan Islands 289
Northern Umbria 309
Perugia 311
Assisi 316
Southern Umbria 329
Spoleto 332
The Marches 339
Who's Who in Renaissance Art 33
The Duomo 84
Santa Croce 123
Simply Perfect 155
Grape Escapes 211
Piazza del Campa 226
Assisi's Basilica San Francisco 319