eBook
Available on Compatible NOOK devices, the free NOOK App and in My Digital Library.
Related collections and offers
Overview
Product Details
| ISBN-13: | 9781477236185 |
|---|---|
| Publisher: | AuthorHouse |
| Publication date: | 05/30/2012 |
| Sold by: | Barnes & Noble |
| Format: | eBook |
| Pages: | 236 |
| File size: | 58 MB |
| Note: | This product may take a few minutes to download. |
Read an Excerpt
FASHION, FADS AND FANTASIES
Three Decades of Outrageous DressingBy Lorraine Dossett Geiger
AuthorHouse
Copyright © 2012 Lorraine Dossett GeigerAll right reserved.
ISBN: 978-1-4772-0415-3
Chapter One
The SeventiesBy Lorraine Dossett Geiger
In 1970 my husband Bert Geiger and our son and I moved from Los Angeles to New York City. We rented an apartment in the Carnegie Hall building, then a place for artists to live and work in, as Andrew Carnegie had intended it to be. It was a great location from which to see and record what artistic types and other sorts of people were wearing. The individuals you see in the 70's section of this book and their outfits are all individual expressions of various reactions to the driving issues of the decade: the energy crisis, economic recession, civil rights for minorities, women and gay issues, environmental concerns, the anti-war movement, terrorism and the introduction of new technologies.
For instance, as the women's movement broke down stereotypical differences, this sometimes promoted a more masculine look for women. They began to appear in pant suits, padded shoulders, and tailored coats. But at the same time it gave some women incentive to move in the other direction to maximize or exploit their sexuality. And it influenced some women to throw away their bras, quit shaving their legs, and stop paying attention to fashion at all!
I remember watching during the early days of live television reporting: terrorist bombings abroad, hijacking of airline passengers, the IRA, and the war in Vietnam. These filled the news, and stories and images of violence inspired a military influence in dress. Unemployment, recession, and energy shortages pinched wallets which in turn promoted the ballooning of the thrift shop culture and an expansion of the mixing of the old and new together (a major fashion theme of the 70's). Homelessness was on the rise and had its influence on street wear.
Ecology and concern for animal rights and endangered animals increased the number of vegetarians, and so while imitation animal prints were all the rage, real furs became scorned by many. Natural foods, natural looks in make-up, natural herbal medicines and healing methods like massage and yoga-but definitely fake furs!
Black politics too had its affect on fashion. The sixties brought about the culmination of the civil rights movement, and 70's fashions mirrored what had been achieved. Such hair styles as the "afros and "corn row braids expressed black Americans' deep sense of pride in their heritage, and they celebrated their unique culture emphasizing that "black is beautiful".
As a reaction against the introduction of more technology, such as innovations in the realm of audio and video, and against mass produced merchandise, interest in 3rd world lifestyles and ethnic cultures escalated (an expansion of the hippie movement on a wider scale). Handmade crafts of all kinds enjoyed a rise in popularity; jewelry, ceramics, knitting and printing on textiles and handmade clothing decorated with individualistic ornamentation.
At the same time, in a different dimension, disco dancing with its kings and queens, and movies like Saturday Night Fever, popularized a whole different look. Skin tight clothes, body stockings, and hot pants became "the thing" for the night scene. Bert and I frequented the clubs and while Bert danced, I sat in the corner with my sketch pad. The day crowd of joggers and roller skaters wore their own versions of these styles and track suits became very popular. In '79 the Walkman was introduced and soon became the indispensable fashion accessory. As trendy means of self expression became more prevalent, graffiti, rock posters, tee shirts, both funky and glamorous became omnipresent.
In the early 70's the punk movement was being born in NYC and quickly migrated to London and beyond. While many were appalled by the punk look, we got such a kick out of seeing those kids in their wild outfits. The trash culture jumped in with its cheap acrylics and nylons, its nonsensical designs, and bright colors. Airbrushed t-shirts bore messages, and vamps all in black with pale make-up walked the streets. More than ever before, clothing had become signage- broadcasting the individual wearer's beliefs, lifestyle or aspirations. In New York City, the Hamptons, California, and in Europe (mostly Paris and London), I observed new aesthetics emerging. People everywhere were creating their own individualistic looks, and they found or made what they needed to make their statement.
Meanwhile, what had become of the hippy culture was still flourishing and many of the 60's boutiques were still in operation. But as economic recession put pressure on consumers they began to buy the cheaper mass produced imports and/or to opt out of trying to be "different" and resorted to wearing inexpensive mass produced clothes like jeans. A worldwide pandemic of denim fashions broke out which was seen in every variety from plain and simple jeans, to elaborate creations all out of denim and spreading into every fashion look.
Toward the end of the decade, the public began to react to the lack of cultural unity. Nostalgic trends kicked in and Hollywood spurred the adoption of retro styles and vintage looks. Throughout the 70's, haute couture and custom tailoring had been under siege, but now a shifting and readjusting came about and brought with it a rebirth of "style" with a new unstructured look and a sense of practicality.
The fashions, fads, and fantasies of the 70's were fascinating to observe and the individuals and their apparel you will see on these pages are actual people expressing their own unique versions of many of these trends.
001 DAUGHTER'S FRIEND 1967 Pasadena, CA
My youngest daughter's friend wearing father's long two-piece thermal underwear under white dotted Swiss antique dress- heavy construction shoes. This was not an attempt to he amusing - but serious individual dressing.
002 LEADER OF THE HIPPIE PACK 1960 Pasadena, CA
My oldest daughter here is wearing a popular uniform of the period. At the time, the shameless sheer top and navel exposure caused a stir. The patched, bell bottom jeans had the required touch of grunge.
003 UNTITLED 1970 Berkeley, CA
White carpenter overalls, flowered sleeveless T-shirt, old blue aqua felt hat.
004 SPRINGFIELD HIGH 1977 SoHo Gallery, NYC
Young girl viewing art- eating black bread with cheese. Natural straw hat appliquéd with an assortment of old buttons, plastic bananas and cherries, feathers, etc. Old green corduroy school jacket- old crepe flannel pants. Two-tone Japanese toe socks and multi-colored rubber thongs.
005 MOUNTAIN FOLK 1977 Carnegie Hall, NYC
The earthy mountain look in dressing was part of a fantasy in dress which evolved from the "hippie" look. Here an old man's brown felt hat with work shirt and western skirt. Gold kid belt and bag along with the colorful "go-aheads" are accessories which give a whimsical effect.
006 GIRL IN PIRATE GARB 1975 Brussels
I was reluctant to approach this girl because of her almost angry and defiant expression. Frye boots- eye patch- bone necklace.
007 DENIM STREET 1975 NYC
Examples of the denim phenomenon of the summer of '75.
008 UNTITLED 1973 9th Ave & 57th St, NYC
009 UNTITLED 1978 Lincoln Center, NYC
Fashion's longest fad- denim. Patched and fringed denim suit. African skull of muted colored beads-gold rimmed glasses- status Vuitton bag.
010 ALL IN THE FAMILY 1979 Rockefeller Center, NYC
Another street merchant-family style. The young lady and children were walking models for their products- hats made in leather. Mother's jacket is leather with lettering of leather and a leather skirt.
011 UNTITLED 1979 Central Park, NYC
An example of artistic and creative hand knit sweaters accessorized with wool jersey culottes. '79 introduced the return of knits from the early '70's with regained popular attention.
012 PURPLE PEOPLE 1977 Central Park, NYC
Always in purple tie-die, this couple had a roof-top garden which they kept nourished with the horse droppings left by the park carriage trade.
013 DIFFERENT TIMES, DIFFERENT PLACES 1979 Macy's, NYC
Another example of the younger fashion adventurers. A satin bed jacket from the thrift store is so right for that feminine luxury look of the past- not familiar to the average young person today. Worn over a burgundy knit tank top and crinkle cotton skirt. Pale pink hose and sandals- large straw bag with red and green stripes- braids twisted on either side of the head- another return to the romantic.
014 BASTILLE DAY 1977 Belvès, France
Interesting fashion comment in contrast. Very sophisticated party attending Bastille celebration with stark contrast to peasants of the village of Belvès. Very expensive St. Laurent peasant dress worn by a glamorous woman who appeared to be originally from the area.
015 FRONTIER WOMAN 1977 Madison Ave, NYC
"Frontier" and rugged "woodsman" clothes emerged from the "hippie" look. The Frye boot was a "must" for a period of 3 years or more along with the leather shoulder strap bag. Appropriate for the look, but adding a note of luxury is this sweater of fur and knit. Wool challis French import skirt and scarf add to the elegance.
016 PARISIAN INFLUENCE 1976 Carnegie Hall Elevator, NYC
017 UNTITLED 1977 Bloomingdale's, NYC
Two ultra consumers in Bloomie's wearing this summer's fashion fad- the innocent romantic white cottons. Espadrilles were the only thing for the feet this summer, as though a law had been passed banning anything else. Hair "au natural", but a perm to achieve the effect.
018 ROMANTIC 1977 Union St, San Francisco
Outstanding fashion fad of summer '77. White eyelet embroidery with romantic designs borrowed from under-garments of the nineteenth century. Black horse hair hat-black patent leather belt- shoulder strap bag and high heeled sandals.
019 PRINCESS 1977 57th St, NYC
This summer of white and ruffles along with the first emergence of the high heel mule sandal. The hair style of the "flower children" is adopted by the followers of high fashion in a much studied variation achieved by the "in" hair salons. The new accessory is the gold or silver plastic bag and shoes.
020 BONWIT BAG 1978 57th St and 5th Ave, NYC
Another expression of the popular sundress for summer '78. Empire cotton in gray-blue worn with the funky look of socks with very dainty high-heel sandals. The Marcel wave in long loose hair-oversized straw bag.
021 INSIDE OUT 1979 Central Park, NYC
Roller skating has become a popular sport in New York City as well as a means of transportation. For the young and daring, as shown here, a skater has created her own look by adding an antique petticoat to her ensemble.
022 WEEKEND FEVER Winter, 1978 Fiorucci, New York
Male salesmen in shiny pants and vests worn with old tuxedo type shirts in white or color. Girls in vivid multi-color ruffled skirts, with ruffle repeated around neck of body tights. Fellow in foreground wears a necklace tie of fabric matching shirt. Late Saturday afternoon and the boys seem unable to restrain themselves from dancing to the music played in the store in anticipation of what most likely would be an evening of disco dancing for them.
023 UNTITLED 1977 Fiorucci, NYC
Red tulle skirt by Juan Ramos and Antonio Lopez being considered for the wee hours in the city.
024 SALES GIRL 1978 Fiorucci, NYC
"Punk" fashion in all of its glory. This would be considered a full expression. Patch effect angora sweater with black leather skirt. Black lace tights- red leather boots with black leather strap and chain attachment- white ruffle anklets. The hair amusing and homely at the same time.
025 CAPEZIO SALESGIRL 1979 Village Store, NYC
Kitsch version of active sportswear garments. A really bizarre look made adorable on a young beauty. Top is in stretch knit in bright fuchsia with black dots. Shorts in black shiny knit with fuchsia trim. The very popular, retro look of the 40's and 50's has emerged as an important look-the kitsch tart look.
026 THIS, THAT, OR BOTH Summer 1979 Henri Bendel, NYC
An amusing combination of two very popular fashion items, the oversized short T-shirt dress worn with red leather cowboy boots. There are no restrictions in the minds of some with putting looks together. This one is against all rules of dressing ever before considered. Somehow, when the figure is young and good, anything works. Oversized T-shirt dress a fad for summer '79. Cowboy boots have replaced the elegant lady-like boot.
027 FANTASY FASHION 1977 Fiorucci, NYC
Fiorucci sales girl wearing leopard mask with leopard over-tire-knee socks- over red tights. Tight gold shorts- red metallic leather boot-sold fashion silk flowers on ribbon around the neck.
028 WESLEY FASHIONS Fall 1979 Wesley Fashions, San Francisco
Male student from Fashion Institute dressed in clothes he designed and made. He was getting a very cool reception from the store clerk who could well have socialized with him in one of the famous San Francisco gay or transvestite clubs. However, in the very popular menswear haberdashery, he was asked to leave. He was very eager to tell me the dress was made of cotton, and the belt and tie were made of the same fabric. Gloves, pink nylon- black pillbox hat with tassel- black suede shoes. Face was made up with chalk-white makeup. Hat boxes held hats he made.
029 FLIRTACIOUS CHAPEAU Fall 1978 Henri Bendel, NYC
Flirtatious little hats had left with the 50's during the decline in the wearing of any type of hat. Here in the late 70's younger designers are bringing them back prompted by TV's late night classic movies. They are for the most part being worn in fantasy dressing. But some are experiencing a new mood in a more serious hat.
030 ANOTHER SEASON-ANOTHER LOOK 1977 NYC
An amusing fashion switch- from the masculine heavy, baggy garments, to a revival of a most feminine look.
031 YEAR OF THE BIG TOP Fall 1977 Madison Ave, NYC
Jersey blouson worn over matching color tights and thigh-high boots in Madison Ave. shoe store. Boots of every conceivable type are being worn fall '77 and winter of '78,
032 WITH IT Spring 1979 Fiorucci, NYC
Fashion doesn't separate age groups- in this case which even in Fiorucci is an unusual sight. Woman in her middle 50's "keeping up" in her wool crape jacket trimmed in leopard print over a black crape tunic, belted to match necklace and snake motif chain. Black textured tights over black stockings and high heels-frayed hairdo.
033 BROWSING FIORUCCI 1478 Fiorucci, NYC
The Squadra Sisters shopping at Fiorucci.
034 ANOTHER TIME, ANOTHER PLACE Fall 1979 Fiorucci, NYC
An amusing sight in Fiorucci, worth recording because of the contrast of dress codes and because of the elderly person's interest in the avant garde merchandise of the store.
035 EXPLORING POSSIBILITIES Spring 1979 Portobello Rd Thrift Shop, London
A strange but true sight on Portobello Road in London. A male going feminine combined with the "punk" hair style. An interesting contradiction, since "punk" symbolizes a tough look in both male and female adaptations. The poncho cape was being considered in a thrift shop.
036 UNTITLED Winter 1979 Xenon Disco, NYC
Knit body top worn with full leopard print pant. Black high heel boot-shoe. Hair in tiny braids and decorated with beads.
037 UNTITLED Fall 1976 Infinity Club, NYC
White Indian crinkle gauze jump-suit. Emergence of the newest look in '76 - black boots-leather belt purse-headpiece made of the same Indian gauze fabric as jump-suit.
038 UNTITLED Winter 1979 Xenon Disco, NYC
Precious looking girl with the artistic braided hair so popular now. Body clothes are foundation for this ensemble. Silk top tied to one side gives a good balance to the "cling" fit. Feather in hair.
039 OUTSTANDING Winter 1979 Xenon Disco, NYC
Ensemble of leather, silk brocade and glitter. Garland of gold metal leaves on the head. Eyes outlined in black liner and then edged with rhinestones. Gold braid crossing chest and as belt. Pants of soft black leather-men's dress pumps.
040 SPORT WHISTLE Winter 1979 Xenon Disco, NYC
Fashion incorporates active sportswear as seen in the satin boxer shorts worn with a white T-shirt. Sport itself has entered the dance floor with the roller skate craze of 1978. Use of the whistle is part of the sport costume.
041 JUST PRETEND Winter 1979 Xenon Disco, NYC
Another fantasy look for disco dancing. No longer can you merely pay admission for the hot discos, but one needs to enhance the club's atmosphere through performance or costume, or celebrity status.
042 OUTSTANDING Winter 1979 Xenon Disco, NYC
An example of the western look in fashion and in play dressing. At times merely a suggestion, as in the boots worn with black T-shirt and pants.
043 UNTITLED Winter 1976 Amsterdam disco
044 UNTITLED Summer 1976 The Eye and the Apple Disco East Hampton, NYC
Khaki suit- plaid shirt- argyle socks-moccasin loafers with tassel.
045 FIORUCCI OPENING PARTY Spring 1976 Infinity Club, NYC
Party at Infinity club celebrating the opening of Fiorucci.
046 MIXED BAG Fall 1978 G.G. Barnum, NYC
Typical fashion mix of the time. Adapting various old late movie looks and putting them together with a new point-of-view. It looks incongruous to the eyes of those who recall the fashions of the past. This Asian transvestite is wearing the ultra seductive and feminine look. Faded purple thrift shop velvet hat with two red roses in the hair. Top is two body tops-one over the other. Marabou boa.
(Continues...)
Excerpted from FASHION, FADS AND FANTASIES by Lorraine Dossett Geiger Copyright © 2012 by Lorraine Dossett Geiger. Excerpted by permission of AuthorHouse. All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher.
Excerpts are provided by Dial-A-Book Inc. solely for the personal use of visitors to this web site.
Table of Contents
Contents
Acknowledgements....................05Forward by Bill Cunningham....................06
Introduction by Lorraine Geiger....................07
The Seventies....................10
Hippies....................12
The Peasant Look....................22
In the Shops....................30
Discos....................44
Discreet Exposure....................58
Maximum Coverage....................66
Full Shapes....................76
Mannishly Feminine....................86
Vintage Looks....................92
The Eighties....................100
Oriental Impact....................102
Big Coats....................108
Punk and New Wave....................120
Heads....................136
Urchins....................144
Coquettes....................150
Icons....................158
Romantically Classic....................166
The Nineties....................180
Out and About....................182
At the Markets....................198
Close-ups....................208
Brevity Continued....................216
South o f the Border....................226
Biography....................235