Chop Suey Nation: The Legion Cafe and Other Stories from Canada's Chinese Restaurants
In 2016, Globe and Mail reporter Ann Hui drove across Canada, from Victoria to Fogo Island, to write about small-town Chinese restaurants and the families who run them. It was only after the story was published that she discovered her own family could have been included—her parents had run their own Chinese restaurant, The Legion Cafe, before she was born. This discovery, and the realization that there was so much of her own history she didn’t yet know, set her on a time-sensitive mission: to understand how, after generations living in a poverty-stricken area of Guangdong, China, her family had somehow wound up in Canada.

Chop Suey Nation: The Legion Cafe and Other Stories from Canada’s Chinese Restaurantsweaves together Hui’s own family history—from her grandfather’s decision to leave behind a wife and newborn son for a new life, to her father’s path from cooking in rural China to running some of the largest “Western” kitchens in Vancouver, to the unravelling of a closely guarded family secret—with the stories of dozens of Chinese restaurant owners from coast to coast. Along her trip, she meets a Chinese-restaurant owner/small-town mayor, the owner of a Chinese restaurant in a Thunder Bay curling rink, and the woman who runs a restaurant alone, 365 days a year, on the very remote Fogo Island. Hui also explores the fascinating history behind “chop suey” cuisine, detailing the invention of classics like “ginger beef” and “Newfoundland chow mein,” and other uniquely Canadian fare like the “Chinese pierogies” of Alberta.

Hui, who grew up in authenticity-obsessed Vancouver, begins her journey with a somewhat disparaging view of small-town “fake Chinese” food. But by the end, she comes to appreciate the essentially Chinese values that drive these restaurants—perseverance, entrepreneurialism and deep love for family. Using her own family’s story as a touchstone, she explores the importance of these restaurants in the country’s history and makes the case for why chop suey cuisine should be recognized as quintessentially Canadian.

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Chop Suey Nation: The Legion Cafe and Other Stories from Canada's Chinese Restaurants
In 2016, Globe and Mail reporter Ann Hui drove across Canada, from Victoria to Fogo Island, to write about small-town Chinese restaurants and the families who run them. It was only after the story was published that she discovered her own family could have been included—her parents had run their own Chinese restaurant, The Legion Cafe, before she was born. This discovery, and the realization that there was so much of her own history she didn’t yet know, set her on a time-sensitive mission: to understand how, after generations living in a poverty-stricken area of Guangdong, China, her family had somehow wound up in Canada.

Chop Suey Nation: The Legion Cafe and Other Stories from Canada’s Chinese Restaurantsweaves together Hui’s own family history—from her grandfather’s decision to leave behind a wife and newborn son for a new life, to her father’s path from cooking in rural China to running some of the largest “Western” kitchens in Vancouver, to the unravelling of a closely guarded family secret—with the stories of dozens of Chinese restaurant owners from coast to coast. Along her trip, she meets a Chinese-restaurant owner/small-town mayor, the owner of a Chinese restaurant in a Thunder Bay curling rink, and the woman who runs a restaurant alone, 365 days a year, on the very remote Fogo Island. Hui also explores the fascinating history behind “chop suey” cuisine, detailing the invention of classics like “ginger beef” and “Newfoundland chow mein,” and other uniquely Canadian fare like the “Chinese pierogies” of Alberta.

Hui, who grew up in authenticity-obsessed Vancouver, begins her journey with a somewhat disparaging view of small-town “fake Chinese” food. But by the end, she comes to appreciate the essentially Chinese values that drive these restaurants—perseverance, entrepreneurialism and deep love for family. Using her own family’s story as a touchstone, she explores the importance of these restaurants in the country’s history and makes the case for why chop suey cuisine should be recognized as quintessentially Canadian.

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Chop Suey Nation: The Legion Cafe and Other Stories from Canada's Chinese Restaurants

Chop Suey Nation: The Legion Cafe and Other Stories from Canada's Chinese Restaurants

by Ann Hui
Chop Suey Nation: The Legion Cafe and Other Stories from Canada's Chinese Restaurants

Chop Suey Nation: The Legion Cafe and Other Stories from Canada's Chinese Restaurants

by Ann Hui

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Overview

In 2016, Globe and Mail reporter Ann Hui drove across Canada, from Victoria to Fogo Island, to write about small-town Chinese restaurants and the families who run them. It was only after the story was published that she discovered her own family could have been included—her parents had run their own Chinese restaurant, The Legion Cafe, before she was born. This discovery, and the realization that there was so much of her own history she didn’t yet know, set her on a time-sensitive mission: to understand how, after generations living in a poverty-stricken area of Guangdong, China, her family had somehow wound up in Canada.

Chop Suey Nation: The Legion Cafe and Other Stories from Canada’s Chinese Restaurantsweaves together Hui’s own family history—from her grandfather’s decision to leave behind a wife and newborn son for a new life, to her father’s path from cooking in rural China to running some of the largest “Western” kitchens in Vancouver, to the unravelling of a closely guarded family secret—with the stories of dozens of Chinese restaurant owners from coast to coast. Along her trip, she meets a Chinese-restaurant owner/small-town mayor, the owner of a Chinese restaurant in a Thunder Bay curling rink, and the woman who runs a restaurant alone, 365 days a year, on the very remote Fogo Island. Hui also explores the fascinating history behind “chop suey” cuisine, detailing the invention of classics like “ginger beef” and “Newfoundland chow mein,” and other uniquely Canadian fare like the “Chinese pierogies” of Alberta.

Hui, who grew up in authenticity-obsessed Vancouver, begins her journey with a somewhat disparaging view of small-town “fake Chinese” food. But by the end, she comes to appreciate the essentially Chinese values that drive these restaurants—perseverance, entrepreneurialism and deep love for family. Using her own family’s story as a touchstone, she explores the importance of these restaurants in the country’s history and makes the case for why chop suey cuisine should be recognized as quintessentially Canadian.


Product Details

ISBN-13: 9781771622226
Publisher: Douglas & McIntyre Ltd.
Publication date: 09/07/2019
Pages: 288
Product dimensions: 5.40(w) x 8.40(h) x 0.90(d)

About the Author

Ann Hui is The Globe and Mail’s National Food Reporter and uses food as a lens to explore public policy, health, the environment, science and technology. Before she joined The Globe, her writing was published in the Walrus, the National Post, the Toronto Star and the Victoria Times Colonist. Hui lives in Toronto, ON.

Table of Contents

Author's Note 11

Introduction 13

Chapter 1 Victoria, BC. Spring 2016 19

Chapter 2 Burnaby, BC. Summer 2016 33

Chapter 3 Vulcan, AB. Spring 2016 45

Chapter 4 Jingweicun, Guangdong, China. 1924-52 63

Chapter 5 Drumheller, AB. Spring 2016 69

Chapter 6 Jingweicun, Guangdong, China. 1952-60 81

Chapter 7 Stony Plain, AB. Spring 2016 87

Chapter 8 Guangzhou, China. 1961-65 93

Chapter 9 Boissevain, MB. Spring 2016 99

Chapter 10 Guangzhou, China. 1966-74 109

Chapter 11 Thunder Bay, ON. Spring 2016 119

Chapter 12 Hong Kong-Vancouver, BC. 1974 129

Chapter 13 Nackawic, NB. Spring 2016 143

Chapter 14 Vancouver, BC. 1974-75 151

Chapter 15 Moncton, NB. Spring 2016 159

Chapter 16 Abbotsford, BC. 1976-77 163

Chapter 17 Glace Bay, NS. Spring 2016 173

Chapter 18 Abbotsford, BC. 1977 185

Chapter 19 Deer Lake, NL. Spring 2016 193

Chapter 20 Abbotsford, BC. 1977-84 207

Chapter 21 Fogo Island, NL. Spring 2016 225

Chapter 22 Burnaby, BC. December 2016 243

Chapter 23 Toronto, ON. January 2017 255

Chapter 24 Burnaby, BC. March 2017 267

Acknowledgements 283

Select Bibliography 286

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