Beginner's Garden: A Practical Guide to Growing Vegetables & Fruit without Getting Your Hands Too Dirty
160
Beginner's Garden: A Practical Guide to Growing Vegetables & Fruit without Getting Your Hands Too Dirty
160Paperback
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Overview
This book offers a fun and lighthearted guide to growing your own salads, herbs, vegetables, and fruit, armed with little more than a trowel and some seedlings. Aimed at complete beginners, it de-mystifies the gardening process with sound practical and seasonal advice, lots of hints and tips for successful growing, delicious recipes, and fun weekend projects to help you make the most of your outdoor area, however small. This completely new kind of gardening book is ideal for first-timers who have busy working lives but still want to grow their own produce—without spending all weekend digging.
Product Details
| ISBN-13: | 9781504800983 |
|---|---|
| Publisher: | Fox Chapel Publishing Company, Incorporated |
| Publication date: | 03/06/2018 |
| Pages: | 160 |
| Product dimensions: | 6.90(w) x 9.00(h) x 0.50(d) |
About the Author
Alex Mitchell is a journalist, author and gardener. She has a regular column in The Sunday Telegraph where she covers everything from how to deter slugs to the best hand cream to use after a day in the elements. She studied at the Chelsea Physic Garden and grows her own fruit, salad, herbs and vegetables.
Read an Excerpt
CHAPTER 1
Getting Started
SOME CROPS ARE EASIER TO GROW than others. Sometimes I think you could throw arugula (rocket) seed into the wind and come back three weeks later and find a salad. Eggplants (aubergines), on the other hand, can refuse to produce unless they're showered with love and proverbial fan mail. To make it easier to choose what you might want to grow, I've only included crops that are easy to grow in small gardens and pots. I have, however, included a few demanding prima donnas. And when the result could be a warm, sun-ripened peach, a bowl of purple figs, or a sweet roasted red pepper, the rewards are worth it.
Symbols explained
Right: Cilantro (coriander) flowering.
t r p [t] Tip from yours truly
[p] Project you can tackle in one weekend
[r] Recipe to test your gardening skills
* You couldn't kill it if you tried
** Reliable favorites — the horticultural equivalent of jeans and a T-shirt
*** Won't be taken for granted, but no prima donna either
**** High maintenance! (but super worth it)
Top Crops for Different Plots
However large or small your growing space, there's a fruit or vegetable that you can grow in it. If you only have time for one crop, try these ...
Don't I Need to Buy Lots of Tools?
No. There will always be people who draw outlines of spades, hoes, and forks on their garden shed walls so they can hang their vast collection of tools in exactly the right place in order that they don't get mixed up or, God forbid, actually touch the floor. This is a conspiracy to make people think gardening is complicated. Here's the news, you don't need lots of tools and you really don't need a shed. Everything can be purchased online or bought on a quick trip to a garden center.
You will need ...
For seed sowing, I use either small 3 in. (7.5 cm) plastic pots or seed starting trays — plastic grids of interconnected cells available from any garden center. These are great because, when it's time to transplant the seedlings, you just pop out the cell and plant the whole thing, so you don't have to worry about damaging the roots.
[t] How to transplant seedlings from seed starting trays
Getting plants out of pots without destroying them is a basic but much overlooked skill. It's no good grabbing the leaves and yanking — you're likely to leave the roots behind. But simply turning the pot upside down and shaking is likely to send the poor things flying to the ground in an ungainly tumble. Nowhere is this more sensitive than when dealing with seed starting or plug trays, those helpful little grids that are so good for starting off seeds, since when plants are still small they are even more vulnerable to user error. The best way to get your seedlings out intact is to give each cell a gentle squeeze to loosen the roots from the sides, then poke up through the drainage hole with a stick or the blunt end of a pencil. The whole plant, roots and all, should just pop out and you can then replant it into a bigger container, handling it by the rootball so you don't damage the plant itself.
Labels are good for reminding you what you've sown where (I'm constantly seeing lettuces poke up where peas should have been) and garden twine always comes in handy.
Otherwise, those gardening in containers can do everything they need with a hand trowel, some nice pots, and a wateringcan with a rose attachment (a perforated spout).
Those with a garden will need a garden fork and spade too.
Crops in Pots
Most fruit and vegetable crops can be grown in pots — in fact, some, like figs and blueberries, prefer it. A group of plants in containers can look as jungly as a garden border, and you can fit in masses on a small terrace, from herbs to fruit trees. In fact, pretty much any crop can be grown in a pot, if the pot is big enough. If you treat them as mini beds, cramming in different plants — salad leaves, zucchini (courgettes), and nasturtiums, say, or purple green (French) beans and California poppies at the base of a fig tree — pots can look surprisingly lush. Large terracotta pots, weathered with lichen, can be objects of beauty in themselves.
The best thing about growing in containers, though, is that you don't have to worry about your soil because you're not using it. Just buy some organic all-purpose potting mix to fill your pots with and you're good to go. And if you haven't time even to sow crops, you can buy them as seedlings and plant them straight out. It's pretty much instant gardening.
Any container can be used to grow plants as long as it has holes in the base for water to drain away. You could use an ice-cream tub if you wanted, though you may not thrill to the idea of a terrace full of things with Mint Choc Chip written on the side. If so, there are many options ...
[t] "Crocks" in first
Every time you plant anything in a pot or window box, you'll hear about adding "crocks" to the bottom first. What on earth are they and do you really need to bother? Traditionally, they're bits of broken terracotta pot that stop the drainage holes from getting clogged up with soil and roots and waterlogging the plants. So, they are kind of necessary. But why would you want to smash a perfectly good pot? In ye olde times, large gardens might have had a constant supply of smashed terracotta (along with a constant supply of gardeners in waistcoats), but these days, with a small garden, you probably don't have any. I use a couple of handfuls of pea gravel (shingle) instead, along with any broken plastic pots. Stones are fine too. Or chuck in some broken-up pieces of Styrofoam (polystyrene). They're light, you can use them again and again, and, best of all, you'll get rid of some of that packaging that's been cluttering up your hall.
Terracotta. Old terracotta pots — with their faded charm and patina of lichen and calcification — are so much more appealing than the brand-new, orange, machine-made plastic things you find at big-box stores. For starters, they make it look like you've been gardening for ages so actually know what you're doing. To make them look older, mix some baking powder with a few drops of water to make a paste, and brush it onto the outside of the pots with a soft brush. Leave it to dry, then brush off any excess powder to leave a whiteish patina. To keep rain from washing away the powder, finish with hairspray or fixative. No one will ever know you didn't inherit them from dear old grandpapa's estate.
Glazed pots. These pots are for people who want to pretend they live in the Mediterranean, which is most of us. They usually come in deep vivid blues, turquoises, and greens.
Fiber cement pots. Fiber cement (fibreclay) pots are also available, and are styled to look like lead. Light, large, and deep enough for fruit trees, they look just like those heavy lead planters you see in the gardens of stately homes with the bonus that you don't have to remortgage your house to buy them and they won't fall into your downstairs neighbor's breakfast.
Old wooden wine crates. These are perfect for salad crops — ask at your nearest wine store, they often have some they're throwing out. They're somehow the perfect size to grow a decent patch of greens or even tomatoes, and their imprinted logos give them a certain élan.
[t] 3 and 5 look better than 2 or 4
For some reason odd numbers of containers always look better than even ones — the same rule applies when planting seedlings out in the garden. Three or five plants make a nice cluster — a group of two or four looks contrived and unnatural.
[t] Sprinkle with pea gravel
Make crops in pots look the business by covering the top of the potting mix with a layer of pebbles(shingle). It not only looks smart and reflects light, hiding all that dark earth, but also keeps moisture in the mix and thus reduces the amount of watering you need to do. A medium-sized bag of pea gravel is easy to find in garden centers and goes a very long way.
Or improvise. If you're feeling creative you can use anything — colanders, hats, teapots, even old boots — as growing containers. I've even seen strawberries growing happily in a leather handbag. Old farm (butler) sinks are popular but beware, they are incredibly heavy — and do add plenty of crocks and gravel (grit) at the bottom since the drain may not be enough for drainage. Some people seem to like the challenge of turning any old incongruous thing into a container. Tires, buckets, old bathtubs ... I'm still scarred by memories of a friend who kept planting lobelia in a toilet. I sometimes think there's a fine line between creativity and a vacant lot that someone's dumped trash on.
Metal containers. Metal containers — for those aiming for a clean, modern look — work really well, whether galvanized tin, copper, zinc, aluminum, or brushed steel. Classic metal dustbins can look surprisingly smart, especially in a row of three. Even regular tin cans can be co-opted for growing herbs, salads, even hot peppers. Paint them with exterior masonry paint for a subtler effect or leave them to rust naturally. If you can find large, attractive, colorful cans — such as those used for olive oil or tomatoes in delis — they look great planted up.
Plastic. Brightly colored tubs with handles are a good size and easy to move around. If the bright colors offend you, choose black or disguise them with burlap (hessian sacking) or bamboo or reed screening cut to size (you can buy this from garden centers).
Hanging baskets: back in style
The only option for hanging baskets used to be the traditional rattan upturned dome, bursting out all over with clashing busy lizzies and geraniums like an over-exuberant hat. The recent houseplant revival has breathed new life into the humble hanging basket. Clay, plastic, even concrete planters suspended from the ceiling are adorning desirable interiors for the first time since the 1970s and, if you move them outside, they make ideal homes for tumbling tomatoes, strawberries, herbs, and baby salad leaves. Just make sure you don't hang them with string that will rot and break when it gets wet; metal chains and nylon or plastic string are best.
[t] Help hanging baskets hold water
The only problem with hanging baskets is that they dry out quickly in hot weather. Regular watering is therefore essential, but to make life a bit easier mix a handful of water-retaining gel into the potting mix when you plant them.
Grow bags always seem to thrive
They may be unfashionable, but I love grow bags. Long, plastic-wrapped sausages of potting mix, they're usually emblazoned with garish pictures of tomatoes and don't look very chic. However stylish your collection of weathered terracotta pots is, toss a growing bag in there and you'll really lower the tone. And yet they're so perfect for growing tomatoes in a small space that I use them every year. Nothing is easier than making three crosses in the plastic with a kitchen knife and then planting a tomato in each. They always seem to thrive, even if plants in the soil or other pots struggle.
But how to deal with that plastic? In an unusually industrious/creative moment, I had some shallow wooden boxes made, just the right size to fit the bags in. I then covered the bags with pea pebbles so you'd never know they were there. You can buy ready-made burlap (hessian) covers that will neatly slip over the grow bags, too, giving them a more natural look. Alternatively, display your garish, plastic grow bags with pride and tell anyone who criticizes them not to be such a terrible snob.
A window box for every window
Most people, even those who live in apartments, can have a garden. It's just that it might be three floors up and on your windowsill. Outdoor window ledges are great growing spaces. All you need is a window box.
I tend to avoid plastic window boxes because, however glorious the plants in them, all I can see is the ugly box. Terracotta and light metal ones always look good, wooden ones are great for a rustic look, and there are rattan ones for the folksy-devoted. But my current favorites are those made of fiber cement (fiberclay) styled to look like lead, large enough to hold plants like eggplants (aubergines) and peppers. Whatever you choose, get the biggest and deepest you can for your windowsill (weight restrictions permitting). Small, shallow boxes can dry out in a few hours on a hot summer's day — the larger the box, the less you'll be rushing back and forth with a watering can. Bespoke window boxes that fit your windowsill may be a worthwhile investment since they will maximize your growing space and look elegant. Check online for a supplier.
The heavier the window box, the less likely it is to blow off and knock someone out in the street below, but it's worth taking precautions however much you may dislike your downstairs neighbors. You can buy handy bracket and box kits that keep everything safely tethered or tie a sturdy chain around the box and attach it to the wall and sleep better on those windy nights.
[t] Insulate window boxes
Metal window boxes are light and modern, but they tend to heat up in hot weather. This dries out the potting mix and can overheat the roots. Insulate the box against the sun by lining the inside (not bottom) of the box with any sheets of Styrofoam (polystyrene) you might have hanging around from packaging.
Crops in Soil
Yes, I know, this is the boring part. Can't I just plant something in the earth as it is and hope for the best, you might be thinking? Well, you can, but you might not get very many tomatoes in return. I don't know, perhaps you have inherited your garden from a lovely old gent who has spent the past 40 years digging in manure, clearing weeds, and removing stones, leaving you with perfect soil that you can merely touch with a seed and cause a productive, edible jungle to grow. But it's highly unlikely. Chances are your garden, like most gardens, is a green rectangle of boggy lawn flanked by borders of limping shrubs, badly drained soil, a healthy army of weeds, and an abandoned bicycle (why do all gardens seem to contain an abandoned bicycle?).
So how do you transform it into a verdant paradise of tomatoes, sweet corn, salad, and beans?
[t] Raised bed kits
If you can't face preparing your soil for planting, there is a way out. Most garden equipment suppliers sell raised bed kits, basically shallow wooden or plastic squares that you fill with potting mix or topsoil. They work like giant containers and mean you don't have to be so vigilant about your garden soil since you're raising the level a good few inches. Just break up the earth at soil level before you put the raised bed on so you don't compromise drainage.
Raised bed kits are popular because they give the impression of instant gardening and look very neat and tidy. However, you will have to construct them so factor in some time and hassle. They also scream "Vegetable Plot!" so, if you're aiming for a more organic, mix-n-match look, combining flowers and vegetables in a cottage-garden style, they may not be for you.
Know thy soil
It's a gardener's maxim, often muttered by allotment veterans, master gardeners, and other know-italls that "look after your soil and the plants will look after themselves." They have a point. The first step to getting your soil ready to plant into is to find out what sort it is.
Pick up a small handful and try to form it into a ball shape between your palms. If it won't form a ball and feels gritty, it's sandy; if you can form it into a thick cylinder but not a thread, it's silty; if you can form it into a ring, then it's clay; if you can't form it into any shape at all, then it's a patio.
(Continues…)
Excerpted from "Beginner's Garden"
by .
Copyright © 2018 IMM Lifestyle Books.
Excerpted by permission of IMM Lifestyle Books.
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Excerpts are provided by Dial-A-Book Inc. solely for the personal use of visitors to this web site.
Table of Contents
Preface to the Second Edition, 6,
Introduction, 8,
Getting Started, 10,
SPRING, 32,
SUMMER, 74,
Entertaining, 110,
AUTUMN, 122,
WINTER, 138,
Garden Villains, 148,
Glossary, 153,
Index, 155,
Resources, 157,
Acknowledgements, 158,
Photo Credits, 158,
About the Author, 160,