Table of Contents
Foreword James Beard VII
Introduction X
I Whistling Dixie 1
Understanding Fried Chicken 2
Creole, Cajun, Choctaw 13
Star-Spangled Bourbon 29
My Pig Beats Your Cow 42
Goat-Roping Grub 50
II Confronting American Gourmania 67
America's Passion, America's Guilt 68
Burger Truth 73
Clawed King of the Deep 79
Stews, Ragoûts, Burgoos 88
Reinventing the Sandwich 98
Sour Milk with a College Education 109
Upgrading Hash 115
Rum's Back! 127
III Sharpening the Blade 137
Beyond Meat Loaf 138
Take a Leaf of Lettuce and 150
Some Like It Cold 160
The Summer Coolers 167
Vegetable Aristocrat 178
Dressing for Dinner 189
Dessert Cookies with a Pedigree 198
IV Serious Eating 205
Raw Elegance 206
American Caviar 214
Discovering Great American Cheeses 228
Mousse, Beautiful Mousse 236
Game Is the Name 244
Regal Roasts 259
Long Live The Coach House 269
V A Gourmand Fights Back 283
Cry, the Beloved Country Ham 284
I Made My Own Wine 292
Cornflakes Be Damned! 301
Blessed Are We Who Serve 309
When Lucullus Dines with Lucullus 323
Games Restaurants Play 330
Postscript: "But Why Aren't You Fat!" 338
Index of Recipes 343