Amamani Puzzle Balls

by Dedri Uys

Overview

Amamani is short for Amigurumi Amish Animals. They are based on the traditional Amish puzzle ball, and, as such, come apart into three segments, or rings, which have to be assembled to form your animal. Gauge isn't important in these projects; however, it is important that you work as tightly as you comfortably can. Helpful tips and step-by-step photos are included in this pattern book. Each of the six designs is stitched in segments using Deborah Norville Everyday Premier yarn, is stuffed with polyfiberfill, and includes a pair of safety eyes. Animals included are Dinosaur, Elephant, Giraffe, Turtle, and two versions of Lion.

Product Details

ISBN-13:	9781573675703
Publisher:	Annie's
Publication date:	10/01/2014
Sold by:	Barnes & Noble
Format:	eBook
Pages:	64
File size:	29 MB
Note:	This product may take a few minutes to download.

About the Author

Dedri Uys is a 32-year-old South African living in London with her husband, three gorgeous boys, and Kettle the cat. During the day she works as a radiotherapist, planning treatment for cancer patients. At night, when the little ones have gone to bed, you will find her huddled over her crochet hook, furiously scribbling down designs on pieces of scrap paper (and occasionally having a glass of wine). Her granny taught her to crochet when she was very young, and although she was good at it,she wasn’t overly keen. She didn’t pick up a hook again until she was pregnant with her second son. Four years later she can honestly say that crochet has changed her life. It is so much more than a hobby to her, and she can only hope that making these little critters gives you half as much joy as she got from designing them.

Read an Excerpt

Amamani Puzzle Balls

6 Playful Designs

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By Dedri Uys

Annie's

Copyright © 2014 Annie's
All rights reserved.
ISBN: 978-1-57367-570-3

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CHAPTER 1

Information

Gauge

Although gauge is not important, it is important that you work as tightly as you comfortably can. Everyone works with a slightly different tension. This can play a part in both how big and how neat your finished animal will be.

The animals illustrated in this book are a case in point. They were made by 3 different people. They all used the same hook and yarn, but some animals came out bigger than others.

If you crochet loosely, your finished animal will be "holey," and the stuffing will most likely come through.

If you crochet tightly, your finished animal will be sturdy and more difficult to overstuff.

If you know that you crochet quite loosely, consider going down a hook size or using a thicker yarn.

Stuffing

I have noticed that people tend to think they have overstuffed the ball because the wedges are quite fat and the segments are super snug. However, the ball will stretch over time, and to get the best results, you want to stuff it nice and full!

If you use too little stuffing, the segments will not sit together as well, and the ball is more likely to become lifeless after a lot of playing.

Crocheting tightly will help prevent overstuffing by making the finished pieces less prone to stretching.

Running Stitch Markers

A running stitch marker is simply a piece of scrap yarn that you place over your work at the beginning of a round. This piece of yarn is then flipped backward and forward over your work at the beginning of each subsequent round, forming a running stitch up your work. It is the easiest way to keep track of the beginning of each round, whether you are working in a spiral or joining in the round. I recommend using a running stitch marker to remind you of where the end of the round should fall.

Working in a Spiral

Working in a spiral means that you won't be joining the last stitch of each round to the first stitch of the same round. Instead, you will just continue around in a spiral, making the first stitch of each round in the first stitch of the previous round.

Example:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in ring, do not join.(6 sc)

Continue around, making the first st of the next round in the first st of this round. Place a piece of scrap yarn over your work before making the first st of the next round (see Photo 1).

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around. (12 sc)

Flip your scrap yarn back over your work before making the first st of the next round (see Photo 2).

Rnd 3: Sc in each st around.

Remember to flip your scrap yarn backward or forward before making the first st of each round.

Things to Notice at This Point

The last st of each round should fall in the stitch before the stitch marker (see Photo 3). If it falls in the same st as the st marker, you have skipped a stitch somewhere.

Your piece of scrap yarn will form a running stitch up your work, marking the first stitch of each round. It should creep slightly to the right (or to the left if you are left-handed) as your work progresses (see arrow in Photo 4). If it creeps straight up or in the wrong direction, you have made a mistake somewhere.

Short Rows

The name is derived from the fact that short rows do not begin and end where rows or rounds traditionally begin or end. Rather, they are worked backward and forward across a defined number of stitches, allowing you to either create height and shape or to turn the direction of your crochet work by 90 degrees.

The main problem with short rows is that you have to be very clear about where they start and where they end, because a miscalculation or missed stitch can cause your whole item to come out wrong. To that end, you need some sort of landmark to refer to.

Landmarks

Use the "step" formed by the beginning of the previous short row as a landmark. It is the point in the crochet work where an angle is formed by the turn at the beginning of the previous short row.

The instructions will indicate whether a specific short row should be worked around the outside of the head or on the inside, due to the fact that you turn at the end of short rows. This should help you keep track of which row you are on.

Short rows will have the word "short row" in bold at the beginning of the row, followed by "inside" or "outside."

When making the short rows, do not use the running stitch marker unless specifically instructed to do so.

Example

Row 1: Ch 11, sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each of next 9 chs, turn. (10 sc)

Rows 2–4: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.

Row 5 (short row outside): Ch 1, sc in each of first 6 sts, sl st in the next st, leaving rem sts unworked, turn. (6 sc)

At this point, there is no "step" yet because you have only worked into seven of the 10 stitches of row 4.

For this reason, it is very important that you check your stitches thoroughly before continuing.

Short row 5 completed (before turning — see Photo 1).

Short row 5 complete (after turning — see Photo 2).

Things to Notice at This Point

The slip stitch is not counted as a stitch.

Row 4 still has three stitches left unworked.

Row 6 (short row inside): Sk the sl st, 2 sc in first sc, sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, sl st in next sc, leaving rem sts unworked, turn. (5 sc)

There is still no "step" at this point because you have only worked into four of the six stitches of short row 5.

Sk sl st at beg of short row (see Photo 3).

Short row 6 completed (before turning — see Photo 4).

Short row 6 completed (after turning — see Photo 5).

Things to Notice at This Point

You do not work into the initial slip stitch(es) unless specifically instructed to do so.

The final slip stitch is not counted as a stitch.

Short row 5 still has two stitches left unworked.

Row 4 still has three stitches left unworked.

Row 7 (short row outside): Sk sl st, 2 sc in first sc, sc in each of next 3 sts, (there is now 1 st left before the "step" — see Photo 6), sc in the next st (see Photo 7). This will bring you to the "step," where you will notice that this st has a little horizontal lp of yarn around its base (see arrows in Photos 6 and 7). It is also at a slight angle to the next st, sc in the next unworked st of row 4. (7 sc)

The next unworked stitch is not the stitch at base of step as it already contains the slip stitch from the beginning of the previous short row (see Photos 8 and 9). This applies to all short rows.

At end of short row 7, there should be two stitches left unworked on row 4.

Special Stitch

Magic Ring

Cross end of yarn behind the yarn coming from your skein.

At this point, you will need to pinch or hold yarn tog where it crosses (see Photo 1).

Let yarn from skein fall behind lp. Insert hook and pull yarn through your ring (see Photo 2).

Pull lp all the way through and up to top of ring. This may be the part that feels most awkward and will take some practice (see Photo 3).

Using your middle finger or any finger that is comfortable, continue to hold lp you just made to top of ring. You can now let go of ring with your left hand where the two ends meet (see Photo 4).

Ch 1 (see Photo 5).

Work as many sts in ring as indicated in instructions (see Photo 6).

Pull end to tighten ring, join as indicated in instructions (see Photo 7).

Basic Parts & Pieces

Wedge

Getting started: You will need to make 12 Wedges for each puzzle animal. Each individual pattern will specify which color to use.

Row 1: Ch 2, 3 sc in 2nd ch from hook, turn. (3 sc)

Row 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each st across, turn. (6 sc)

Row 3: Ch 1, 2 sc in first st, sc in next st, [2 sc in next st, sc in next st] across, turn. (9 sc)

Row 4: Ch 1, 2 sc in first st, sc in each of next 2 sts, [2 sc in next st, sc in each of next 2 sts] across, turn. (12 sc)

Row 5: Ch 1, 2 sc in first st, sc in each of next 3 sts, [2 sc in next st, sc in each of next 3 sts] across, turn. (15 sc)

Row 6: Ch 1, 2 sc in first st, sc in each of next 4 sts, [2 sc in next st, sc in each of next 4 sts] across, turn. (18 sc)

Row 7: Ch 1, 2 sc in first st, sc in each of next 5 sts, [2 sc in next st, sc in each of next 5 sts] across, turn. (21 sc)

Row 8: Ch 1, 2 sc in first st, sc in each of next 6 sts, [2 sc in next st, sc in each of next 6 sts] across, turn. (24 sc)

Row 9: Ch 1, 2 sc in first st, sc in each of next 7 sts, [2 sc in next st, sc in each of next 7 sts] across, turn. (27 sc)

Row 10: Ch 1, 2 sc in first st, sc in each of next 8 sts, [2 sc in next st, sc in each of next 8 sts] across, turn. (30 sc)

Assembly

Fold Wedge in half (see Photos 1 and 2), working through both thicknesses (see Photo 3), sc in each row across (see Photo 4). Fasten off.

Pull ends of yarn to inside of Wedge (see Photos 5 and 6).

Wedge Lid

Getting started: See individual instructions for how many to make.

Row 1: Ch 2, 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, turn. (2 sc)

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.

Row 3: Ch 1, 2 sc in first st, 2 sc in last st, turn. (4sc)

Row 4: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.

Row 5: Ch 1, 2 sc in first st, sc in each of next 2 sts, 2 sc in last st, turn. (6 sc)

Rows 6–9: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.

Row 10: Ch 1, sc dec(see Stitch Guide) in first 2 sts, sc in each of next 2 sts, sc dec in last 2 sts, turn. (4sc)

Row 11: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.

Row 12: Ch 1, sc dec in first 2 sts, sc dec in last 2 sts, turn. (2 sc)

Row 13: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.

Row 14: Ch 1, sc dec in 2 sts. (1 sc)

Finishing

Photo 7 shows completed Wedge Lid. The numbers indicate 15 sps or holes formed by 14 rows, row 1 forms 2 sps or holes. You will be working in these sps or holes when attaching Wedge Lids to Wedges.

Leg

Getting started: You will need to make 4 Legs for each puzzle animal, excluding the Turtle. Each individual pattern will specify which color to use (see Photos 1 and 2).

Row 1: Ch 2, 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, turn. (2 sc)

Row 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in first st, 2 sc in last st, turn. (4sc)

Row 3: Ch 1, 2 sc in first st, sc in each of next 2 sts, 2 sc in last st, turn. (6 sc)

Row 4: Ch 1, 2 sc in first st, sc in each of next 4 sts, 2 sc in last st, turn. (8 sc)

Row 5: Ch 1, 2 sc in first st, sc in each of next 6 sts, 2 sc in last st, turn. (10 sc)

Row 6: Ch 1, 2 sc in first st, sc in each of next 8 sts, 2 sc in last st, turn. (12 sc)

Row 7: Ch 1, 2 sc in first st, sc in each of next 10 sts, 2 sc in last st, turn. (14 sc)

Row 8: Ch 1, 2 sc in first st, sc in each of next 12 sts, 2 sc in last st (see Photo 3), ch 12. (12 chs, 16 sc)

Rnd 9: Now working in rnds and in spiral(see page 3) so Leg forms tube, make sure ch isn't twisted (see Photo 4), sc in first st of row 8 (see Photo 5), sc in each of next 15 sc, working in back lp(see Stitch Guide), sc in each of next 12 chs, do not join. (28 sc)

Rnds 10–12: Sc in each st around. At end of last rnd, sl st in next st. Fasten off.

Foot

Getting started: Make 4 for each animal, excluding Turtle, using color indicated in instructions.

Rnd 1: Working in spiral(see page 3), work magic ring(see page 6), ch 1, 6 sc in ring. (6 sc)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around. (12 sc)

Rnd 3: 2 sc in first st, sc in next st, [2 sc in next st, sc in next st] around. (18 sc)

Rnd 4: 2 sc in first st, sc in next st, [2 sc in next st, sc in next st] 7 times, 2 sc in each of last 2 sts, do not fasten off. (28 sc)

Continue as indicated in individual instructions.

Tail

With size G hook and color as indicated in instructions, place slip knot on hook, insert hook around 2 sts of indicated Wedge (see Photo 1), making sure you are inserting hook as close as possible to horizontal center of Wedge, make sl st. Ch 8 (see Photo 2), working in back bar of ch(see illustration), sl st in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Fasten off.

Tassel

Cut 3 strands of yarn each 6 inches in length. Holding all strands tog, fold in half. Insert hook in end of Tail, pull fold through, pull ends through fold. Pull to tighten.

Work end of yarn in by sewing around base of Tail; this will make the Tail a little more secure (see Photo 3).

Simple Segment

This Simple Segment is the easiest of all Segments or rings.

You will need 4 Wedges (see page 8) and Chain of Lids.

Chain of Lids

Using instructions for Wedge Lids on page 9, *work Wedge Lid until you get to end of row 14, do not fasten off**, start again at row 1, rep from * 3 times, ending last rep at **. You should have Chain of Lids containing 4 Lids (see Photo 1).

Now you can proceed in 1 of 2 ways. You can either attach the Chain of Lids to its Wedges now, in which case you should not fasten off, OR you can fasten off and continue making the rem pieces for animal, coming back to join the Chain of Lids to its Wedges later.

If you are joining your Chain of Lids now, ch 1, do not fasten off at end of last Lid.

If you are coming back to this section after making rem parts and pieces, start with slip knot of same color as your Lids.

You will be working up the Chain of Lids in ends of rows on 1 side and down the other side as shown in diagram, working in each st of Wedge, stuffing each Wedge as you work.

Place your first Wedge behind last Lid, with sc seam of Wedge to your right, or to your left if you are left-handed, working through both thicknesses of Lids and Wedge, sc in first row of Chain of Lids and from inside to outside in first st of last rnd of Wedge (see Photo 2), sc in each of next 14 sts, join next Wedge and next Lid (see Photo 3) in same manner until you have worked all Lids to Wedges on 1 side, sc in same st of last Lid and next st of Wedge, continue in same manner, stuffing as you work (see Photos 4 and 5), at end of last Lid and Wedge, join with sl st in beg sc. Leaving long end, fasten off.

Using long tail of yarn, tack tips of first and last Wedges tog (see Photo 6).

Basic Leg Segment

This Segment contains 2 Legs and 2 Wedge Lids (see Photo 1).

Leg & Lid

You will need 4 Wedges (see page 8).

Work Leg on page 10 (see Photo 2). Join with sl st in st at top of Leg (see Photo 3), work Wedge Lid on page 9 twice so that you have 2 Wedge Lids attached to top of Leg (see Photos 4 and 5).

At end of last Wedge Lid, do not fasten off. Work another Leg. You should now have 2 Legs separated by 2 Wedge Lids as shown in Photo 6.

Attaching Legs & Lids to Wedges

Fold Leg flat (see Photo 1), place 1 Wedge behind Leg with sc seam of Wedge to right, or to left if you are left-handed. With slip knot on hook, insert hook from outside to inside in st at fold (6th st of ch12 from rnd 8) and from inside to outside in first st of opening of 1 Wedge (see Photo 2) and work sc.

Make 5 more sc, working in each st of Leg and Wedge through both pieces. This will bring you to incline (see Photo 3). Sc in each of next 9 sts up incline, work in each row of Leg and each st of Wedge and beg in row right at base of incline as indicated with arrow on Photo 3. Last st should be in hole at pointy end of Leg. Photo 4 shows first side of first Leg attached.

(Continues...)

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Excerpted from Amamani Puzzle Balls by Dedri Uys. Copyright © 2014 Annie's. Excerpted by permission of Annie's.
All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher.
Excerpts are provided by Dial-A-Book Inc. solely for the personal use of visitors to this web site.

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Table of Contents

Contents

Information,
Basic Parts & Pieces,
Dexter the Dinosaur,
Eleanor the Elephant,
Gemina the Giraffe,
Skillie the Turtle,
Brill the Lion,
General Information,
Stitch Guide,
Metric Conversion Charts,