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Overview
A Turkish Cookbook is regarded as the seminal work on the subject but has been out of print for over twenty five years. It is a lovingly written recipe book packed with traditional stories, poems and sayings. Turkey is fast becoming one of the most popular tourist destinations, and while famous for its scenic beauty and ancient sites, it undoubtedly owes much of its new found popularity to the quality and character of its food.
With his inimitable talent for combining fascinating anecdotes with mouthwatering recipes, Arto der Haroutunian brings to life the ancient culinary traditions of this huge and varied country. You can recreate the wonderful fish and seafood dishes, the exotic oriental pastries, experiment with different types of kebabs or prepare a selection of meze.
At once a practical cookbook and a fascinating read, A Turkish Cookbook is a splendid introduction to one of the world’s great cuisines.
Product Details
| ISBN-13: | 9781909808249 |
|---|---|
| Publisher: | Grub Street |
| Publication date: | 06/19/2015 |
| Pages: | 176 |
| Product dimensions: | 6.80(w) x 9.60(h) x 1.10(d) |
About the Author
Read an Excerpt
CHAPTER 1
MEZELER
Hors d'oeuvre
* * *
'A man does not eat what he desires, but what he finds.'
Kurdish saying
In the small lokantas (restaurants) of Istanbul, Izmir and, to a lesser extent Ankara, the chefs will fill your table with countless small plates filled to the brim with tit-bits of all sorts. The list will contain different kinds and colours of olives, cheeses, roasted nuts (almonds, pistachios, peanuts, hazelnuts), fried whitebait, sardines, anchovies, meatballs, slices of pastirma, all kinds of fresh vegetables, small boregs, stuffed vine leaves, salads made with fruits, beans, aubergines, courgettes, tomatoes and, of course, tursu (pickles). The waiters, with a little prompting, will refill the empty plates while at one end of the restaurant the chefs will be cooking the fish or meat kebabs. All this and heaven too!
One of the most endearing features of the Turkish cuisine is the sumptuous mezeler (hors d'oeuvre) table. In typical Middle Eastern style, the meze tables often surpassed, both in quantity and quality, the courses that followed it. The Kurdish saying quoted above reveals that Turks may not be able to eat what they desire all of the time, but the Turkish housewife, from the often limited raw material available concocts variation upon variation of delicious and appetising dishes, so that 'what he desires' and 'what he finds' must often coincide. A few dishes are included in the following pages.
NAZKHATUN
Aubergine Dip
One of the countless aubergine dips popular throughout the Middle East and the Balkans. This recipe, however, is different in that as well as the standard yogurt or tahina (seeGlossary), it also incorporates pomegranate juice and toasted almonds. If fresh pomegranates are not available, the concentrated syrup can be bought at Middle Eastern stores. (see Glossary.) Serve with bread and pickles.
3 large aubergines
300 ml (½pint) yogurt
22.5 ml (½tablespoons) pomegranate juice or lemon juice or 10 ml (2 teaspoons) concentrated pomegranate syrup
2.5 ml (½ teaspoon) salt
5 ml (1 teaspoon) dried mint
50 g (2 oz) toasted almonds, finely chopped Garnish
30 ml (2 tablespoons) parsley or tarragon, finely chopped
Make 2 or 3 slits in each aubergine and then cook over charcoal, under a hot grill or in a hot oven until the skins are black and the flesh feels soft when poked with a finger. When cool enough to handle peel away the skins, scraping off and reserving any flesh which comes away with the skin.
Cut the flesh into small pieces and place in a bowl. Mash them with a fork and then add all the remaining ingredients. Mix thoroughly and then set aside to cool.
When ready to serve spread the purée over a large plate and garnish with the fresh herbs.
HÜNKÂR BEGENDI
Aubergine Purée with Cheese
This variation of the above aubergine dish is eaten as a dip or as a side dish with kebabs. The name means 'the king liked it' – and so he should have, it is very tasty!
3 large aubergines
25 ml (1½ tablespoons) lemon juice
25 g (1 oz) butter
30 ml (2 tablespoons) flour
90 ml (6 tablespoons) hot milk
100 g (4 oz) crumbled feta or grated cheddar
5 ml (1 teaspoon) salt
2.5 ml (½teaspoon) chilli pepper
Prepare the aubergines as described above.
Place the flesh in a saucepan and mash with a fork. Add the lemon juice and cook over a low heat for 5 minutes, stirring frequently.
Meanwhile in another small pan melt the butter. Add the flour and cook for about 5 minutes until it is golden, stirring constantly. Stir this mixture into the aubergines and then gradually add the milk, stirring constantly until the mixture is creamy.
Add the cheese, salt and pepper and cook for 2 more minutes until the mixture forms a thick purée.
BAKLA
Broad Beans in Oil
* * *
'BAKLA –
to see – love, care dried version – argument, disagreement to cook – help the poor, but not appreciated to eat – argument, sickness to eat it raw – carelessness to buy – poverty, have problems of the heart to sell – to bring trouble to others.'
FROM A 19TH-CENTURY BOOK OF DREAMS
Despite the above this is one of Turkey's most popular salads which is often also eaten as a main meal with the accompaniment of a rice pilav.
As always yogurt accompanies these Turkish salad dishes, but I think a yogurt-garlic sauce is more successful with this salad (see Sarimsakli Yogurtp. 105).
900 g (2 lb) broad bean pods, washed and stringed juice of 1 lemon
5 ml (1 teaspoon) salt
4–5 vine leaves or large cabbage leaves
4–5 spring onions, cut into 1-cm (½-inch) pieces
30 ml (2 tablespoons) chopped fresh mint or 15 ml (1 tablespoon) dried mint
30 ml (2 tablespoons) chopped fresh dill or 15 ml (1 tablespoon) dried dill
2.5 ml (½ teaspoon) allspice
360 ml (12 fl oz) water
120 ml (4 fl oz) olive oil Garnish
15 ml (1 tablespoon) parsley, finely chopped
Put the washed beans in a large bowl, add the lemon juice and salt, toss and leave for 15 minutes.
Meanwhile, line the bottom of a large saucepan with vine leaves or some cabbage leaves. Cover the leaves with half the beans. Sprinkle the spring onions, mint and dill evenly over the beans and then lay the remaining beans over the top. Sprinkle over the allspice and then pour in the water and oil.
Cover the pan and place over a medium to low heat and cook for about 1–1½ hours or until the beans are tender. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool.
When the beans are cold transfer them to a serving dish and sprinkle with the parsley. Serve with plain yogurt or a yogurt-garlic sauce.
ÇILBIR
Egg on Toast with Spiced Yogurt
'Even his cock lays eggs.'
– Such a lucky fellow!
This is a traditional Turkish recipe which makes an excellent savoury snack.
40 g (1½ oz) butter
6 eggs
6 large rounds of toast
300 ml (½ pint) yogurt
5 ml (level teaspoon) salt
2.5 ml (½ teaspoon) freshly ground black pepper
2.5 ml (½ teaspoon) ground cumin
25 g (1 oz) butter, melted
5 ml (1 teaspoon) paprika
Melt the 40 g (1½ oz) butter in a large frying pan and break the eggs in gently. Cook until just firm.
Meanwhile arrange the rounds of toast on a large platter. Place 1 egg on top of each slice of toast. Beat the yogurt with the salt, pepper and cumin until creamy. Pour this mixture over the eggs.
Mix the melted butter and paprika together and spoon over the eggs. Serve immediately.
KIYMALI YUMURTA
Egg and Meat Omelette
A quick, simple and filling dish. It also makes an ideal lunch if served with a bowl of salad, bread and home-made pickles.
You can add 100 g (4 oz) spinach or purslane to give the dish more substance.
25 g (1 oz) butter
1 small onion, skinned and finely salt chopped
1 garlic clove, skinned and crushed
450 g (1 lb) minced lamb or beef
30 ml (2 tablespoons) parsley or coriander, finely chopped
15 ml (1 tablespoon) tomato purée
60 ml (4 tablespoons) water
5 ml (1 teaspoon) salt
1.25 ml (¼ teaspoon) black pepper
6 large eggs Garnish
2.5 ml (½ teaspoon) paprika
2.5 ml (½ teaspoon) cumin
Melt the butter in a large frying pan, add the onion and garlic and fry for 3 minutes, stirring regularly. Add the minced meat and fry for 5 minutes or until nicely browned, stirring with a wooden spoon to break down the lumps. Stir in the parsley or coriander, tomato purée, water, salt and pepper. Cover the pan and simmer for about 20 minutes or until the meat is cooked.
Uncover the pan and break the eggs over the mixture, spacing them evenly. Cover and cook for a further 5 minutes or until the eggs are firm. Serve with a little paprika and cumin sprinkled over each portion.
YALANÇI DOLMASI
Vine Leaves Stuffed with Rice
'Eat the grapes, don't ask about the vineyard.'
– Do something without asking too many questions.
This is a classic of the Middle Eastern cuisine which is particularly popular in Turkey, Armenia, Greece, Syria and Lebanon.
The idea of stuffing vegetables and leaves is a very old one and, most probably, of Anatolian origin dating back to the ancient Hittites and Urartians.
There are several popular fillings, three of which are given below, and although the cooking method is the same the sauces vary.
By far the most oriental of the versions is the Armenian, while the Istanbul version is more sophisticated and less spicy.
350 g (¾lb) vine leaves
Filling 1 – Armenian version
150 ml (¼ pint) olive oil
2 onions, skinned and thinly sliced
1 green pepper, seeded and thinly sliced
175 g (6 oz) long grain rice, washed thoroughly under cold water and drained
2.5 ml (½ teaspoon) chilli pepper
5 ml (1 teaspoon) allspice
5 ml (1 teaspoon) salt
22.5 ml (1½ tablespoons) tomato purée
25 g (1 oz) chopped almonds
15 ml (1 tablespoon) parsley, finely chopped
15 ml (1 tablespoon) parsley, finely chopped
Filling 2 – Anatolian version
150 ml (¼ pint) olive oil
2 onions, skinned and thinly sliced
175 g (6 oz) long grain rice, washed thoroughly under cold water and drained
25 g (1 oz) pine kernels
25 g (1 oz) sultanas
5 ml (1 teaspoon) salt
5 ml (1 teaspoon) sugar
2.5 ml (½ teaspoon) cinnamon
2.5 ml (½ teaspoon) freshly ground black pepper
10 ml (2 teaspoons) allspice
Filling 3 – Istanbul version
150 ml (¼ pint) olive oil
175 g (6 oz) long grain rice, washed thoroughly under cold water and drained
25 g (1 oz) pine kernels
25 g (1 oz) sultanas
30 ml (2 tablespoons) sugar
5 ml (1 teaspoon) dried dill or 15 ml (1 tablespoon) chopped fresh dill
10 ml (2 teaspoons) allspice
1.25 ml (¼ teaspoon) cinnamon
Sauce for Filling 1
15 ml (1 tablespoon) tomato purée
1.2–1.8 litres (2–3 pints) water
4 garlic cloves, skinned and crushed
5 ml (1 teaspoon) salt
2.5 ml (½ teaspoon) chilli pepper
45 ml (3 tablespoons) lemon juice
Sauce for Fillings 2 and 3
1.2–1.8 litres (2–3 pints) water juice of ½ lemon
Wash the leaves in cold water, place them in a saucepan, cover with water and bring to the boil. Simmer for 15 minutes and then drain into a colander.
To prepare Filling 1: heat the oil in a large saucepan, add the sliced onions and green peppers and fry for 5–10 minutes, stirring occasionally until the onions are soft but not brown. Add the rice, pepper, allspice, salt and tomato purée and cook gently, stirring frequently to prevent sticking, for about 10 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the almonds and parsley.
To prepare Filling 2: heat the oil in a large saucepan, add the onions and fry for 5–10 minutes until the onions are soft but not brown. Add the rice and all the remaining ingredients except the parsley and cook gently for about 10 minutes, stirring frequently to prevent sticking. Remove from the heat and stir in the parsley.
To prepare Filling 3: heat the oil in a large saucepan, add all the remaining ingredients and cook gently for about 10 minutes, stirring frequently to prevent sticking.
When the filling of your choice is cooked turn it into a bowl and leave to cool.
To make each dolma follow the diagrams below.
Continue in this way until you have used all the filling.
Cover the bottom of a saucepan with any remaining or broken vine leaves – this will help to prevent the bottom of the pan burning. Pack the dolmas carefully and closely in the saucepan in layers. Put a plate over the top of the dolmas and hold it down with a weight – this will prevent the dolmas from moving and coming apart during cooking.
Mix the ingredients for whichever sauce you are using together and pour into the saucepan making sure that the dolmas are completely covered. Add more water if necessary. Bring to the boil, lower the heat and simmer for 1½–2 hours.
Remove from the heat, take off the weight and plate and remove 1 dolma to test if the leaf is tender. If so, set the pan aside to cool.
When cool, remove the dolmas from the pan and arrange on a serving plate. Serve with fresh yogurt or lemon wedges.
Arnavut CIGERI
Albanian Liver
Where is my cat?
Nasurettin Hodja was very fond of liver, and so was his wife. Indeed, every time he brought some home his wife would seize the opportunity, grill or make a kebab of it, invite her friends and give a party. Come evening and the Hodja would again be fed a little soup or rice pilav. The excuse would always be the same:
'That miserable cat must have stolen the liver.'
On one such night the Hodja could stand it no more. He sprang up, rushed to his neighbour's house and borrowed his weighing machine. He tied a handkerchief around the cat's middle and weighed carefully. Then turning to his bewildered wife: 'I thought so!' he exclaimed, his cheeks all red. 'The liver I brought home this morning weighed exactly one kilo. Now this cat weighs exactly one kilo too.
Well woman, tell me in God's name, if this be the liver where the hell is my cat?'
This is one of the best hors d'oeuvre of the Ottoman period of Turkish history. It is small pieces of liver fried in oil and flavoured with garlic and paprika.
1 onion, skinned and thinly sliced, or 6 spring onions, sliced into thin rings
450 g (1 lb) lambs' liver, gristle removed
30 ml (2 tablespoons) flour
15 ml (1 tablespoon) paprika
60 ml (4 tablespoons) olive oil
2 garlic cloves, skinned and crushed Garnish
30 ml (2 tablespoons) parsley, finely chopped
Arrange the sliced onion over a serving plate.
Wash the liver and pat dry. Cut into 2-cm (½-inch) pieces.
Place the flour and half the paprika in a bowl and mix well. Add the liver pieces and toss until well coated.
Heat the oil in a frying pan, add the liver pieces and fry for 2–3 minutes, turning once or twice. Do not overcook. The pieces of meat should still be pink and juicy inside. Remove the liver with a slotted spoon and arrange on the onion slices.
Pour off all but 45 ml (3 tablespoons) of the oil. Add the remaining paprika and the garlic to the pan and fry for 1 minute, stirring constantly. Pour this paprika and oil mixture over the liver and set aside to cool. Garnish with parsley and serve.
IMAN BAYILDI
Stuffed Aubergines in Olive Oil
'You might as well expect tears from the dead, as a decent meal from an Imam.'
One of the great classics of Turkish cooking, this dish of aubergines stuffed with onions, tomatoes and green peppers has entered the repertoire of international cuisine. There is a certain mystique about this dish, with several nationalities claiming it as theirs. It is also claimed to be good for one's liver and digestion. The truth of the matter is that this is a magnificent dish worthy of the Imam (Muslim priest) who, allegedly, fainted at the sight of all the olive oil used. Traditionally in the Middle East all savoury dishes to be eaten cold are made with olive oil, but this can make the dish rather heavy for western tastes – as well as expensive – and there is no reason why you cannot use a lighter oil instead. Serve with bread.
6 medium aubergines
120 ml (8 tablespoons) olive oil
3 onions, skinned and thinly sliced
3 green peppers, thinly sliced
3 garlic cloves, skinned and coarsely chopped
3 ripe tomatoes, thinly sliced
45 ml (3 tablespoons) tomato purée
10 ml (2 teaspoons) salt
5 ml (1 teaspoon) allspice
45 ml (3 tablespoons) finely chopped parsley
300 ml (½ pint) olive oil or lighter oil
600 ml (1 pint) boiling water
Wash and dry the aubergines, leaving on the stalks. Make a slit about 2.5–5 cm (1–2 inches) long down each aubergine. Sprinkle salt inside the slits and set aside for 15 minutes.
Meanwhile, heat the 120 ml (8 tablespoons) of olive oil in a large saucepan, add the onions, green peppers and garlic and fry gently for about 10 minutes. Add the tomatoes, tomato purée, salt, allspice and paprika and cook for a further 5 minutes. Stir in half the parsley and remove from the heat.
Rinse out the aubergines and pat dry with kitchen paper.
Heat the 300 ml (½ pint) oil in a large frying pan and fry the aubergines, turning a few times, until the flesh begins to soften. Remove the aubergines and arrange, side by side, in an ovenproof dish, slit sides uppermost.
Carefully prise open the slits and spoon the onion mixture into each slit. If there is any onion mixture left, add this to the dish and then pour in the boiling water. Place in the centre of an oven preheated to 200ºC (400ºF) gas mark 6 and cook for 1 hour.
Remove from the oven, let cool and then refrigerate. Before serving, garnish with the remaining parsley.
(Continues…)
Excerpted from "A Turkish Cookbook"
by .
Copyright © 2015 Arto der Haroutunian.
Excerpted by permission of Grub Street.
All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher.
Excerpts are provided by Dial-A-Book Inc. solely for the personal use of visitors to this web site.
Table of Contents
INTRODUCTION,
MEZELER Hors d'oeuvre,
PILAVLAR Pilavs,
SALATALAR VE SEBZELERI Salads and Vegetables,
FIRIN KEBABLARI Oven Kebabs and Stews,
BÖREKLER Boregs,
YEMEKLER Main Dishes,
EKMEKLER Breads,
TURSULAR VE SOSLAR Pickles and Sauces,
TATLILAR Desserts,
MESRUBATLAR Drinks,
GLOSSARY,
BIBLIOGRAPHY,