Table of Contents
Preface xi
Introduction: How It All Began xv
Blastoff
Preamble 1
Blessings: Cochin, India, 2009 5
Drive, She Said: Western Sahara, Morocco, 2004 12
Solutions: Kerala, India, 2009 18
Unsinkable: Chindwin River, Myanmar, 2012 24
Eating
Preamble 31
Sacrificial Lamb: Río Gallegos, Argentina, 2008 33
Pads: Dunhuang, China, 2011 42
Bottomless Pits: Zaouia Ahanesi, Morocco, 2004 52
Food Fair: Gran Isla Chiloé, Chile, 2008 58
Mare's Milk: Naryn, Kyrgyzstan, 2011 67
Insiders
Preamble 75
Omo Beauty Queens: Omo River Valley, Ethiopia, 2011 78
Divine Intervention: Pemayangste Monastery, Sikkim, India, 2009 86
Garbage and Dogs: Ushuaia, Argentina, 2008 91
Finding Dereka: Axum, Ethiopia, 2011 100
Getting Down with the Locals: Cabo Virgenes, Argentina, 2008 108
Etiquette
Preamble 111
Carma: Orchha, India, 2009 113
Bush Spa: Dimeka, Ethiopia, 2011 120
If It Floats: Puerto Montt, Chile, 2008 127
Kindness of Strangers: Ghalat, Iran, 2016 137
Affliction
Preamble 147
Toes: Pucón, Chile,2008 150
Shoulders: Mysore, India, 2009 159
Knees: El Chaltén, Chile, 2008 163
Body: Völs, Italy, 2012 172
Outsiders
Preamble 177
Camel Carts: Kesroli, India, 2013 181
Hidden: Mashhad, Iran, 2011 189
Huaso Initiation: Torres del Paine, Chile, 2008 195
Hyena Bait: Harar, Ethiopia, 2011 205
Borders
Preamble 211
Isolation: Paso Roballos, Argentina to Chile, 2008 215
Gated Community: Karakul, Tajikistan to Kyrgyzstan, 2011 224
Checkpoint: Kapikoy, Turkey to Iran, 2011 230
River Boundaries: Khorog, Tajikistan and Afghanistan, 2011 235
Missed It: Gauriganj, Nepal to India, 2012 241
Here and Gone
Preamble 253
Tailored: Kolkata, India, 2013 257
Red Carpet: Alodaw Pauk Pagoda, Myanmar, 2012 261
The Tired Deva: Kolkata, India, 2013 264
Come Back!: Puerto Cisnes, Chile, 2008 268
Acknowledgments 275
About the Author 277